Laying The Foundation

One More Time...

2012-01-28T20:35:00.000-08:00

Just as I did yesterday, I'm going to re-post a blog entry from back in 2009 regarding show ring tips because they're just such good articles and so valuable for so many. The same will go for tomorrow night. On Monday we'll be back to current topics, along with a full report of the ACTHA ride tomorrow!

Today we are going back to the show ring tips topic. As the titlesuggests ~ I am resurrecting it. Why? Because it's one of my favoritetopics, very important to your show ring career and I truly enjoyhelping folks excel. :)

One of the most important things you cando after arriving at the showgrounds, getting signed up or checked inand readying both yourself and your horse for the ring is to make sureyou have a set of eyes on the ground. There will almost always bethings a rider or handler will miss, in the excitement of the moment.Just before stepping into the ring, make sure you've got someone towipe your horse (quick soft brush then a rag over the body, a rag towipe the mouth and a rag to wipe the hooves), to run a brush throughyour horse's tail (and mane in some cases) making certain the tail knotis pulled out, to wipe your boots ~ I have a hilariously funny storyabout this ~ and to make sure your girth or cinch is tightened. Fewthings are worse than going in the ring with a tied up tail, dustyboots, a loose girth…or without your number.

Mydusting-off-boots story: A couple of years back we were at a large allArabian show in Las Vegas when I was getting ready to head to the ringfor a Western Pleasure class. My daughter was assisting in making surewe were prepared to show, so I asked her to give me the final touch up,by "busting my doots". Yes, you read that right. For some reason I wasstruck with an episode of severe dyslexia, and could not for the lifeof me ask her to "dust my boots". After about the third time, shefigured out what I meant, so off we were headed for the in gate withclean boots. However, my husband on an errand made a detour by Wal-Martfor a burgundy hand towel and a gold paint pen to write "Doot Buster"on said towel. Thus, an official SFTS tradition was born. We attend noshows without the Doot Buster.

Another of the most importantpieces of advice you can possibly be given is to SMILE! No matter ifyou are competing in hand or under saddle, Western or English, inEquitation or Pleasure ~ if you do so, your judge will notice. Don'toverschool your horse, especially in the lead-up to the big dance. Asriders and trainers, we tend to forget this and many experiencefrustration when something isn't perfect in a work session or lesson.That effect is multiplied several times over when we're concentratingon a show the next weekend.

Know your patterns, your coursesand/or your tests. Study them!! You are supposed to be exhibiting whatyou know, how well you can follow directions and how well you canexecute each of the above. Judges are impressed with confidence,nothing says you are confident like knowing what you're doing. InShowmanship, quarters are pretty much mandatory. Gone are the days whenjudges only expected the half system ~ so know your quarters!! I drillmy kids in Showmanship every bit as hard as Eq patterns.

Rely onyour trainer if you have one. That's what you pay the trainer for!Personally I prefer to warm up my students' and clients' horses forthem, before having them climb on board for a quick lesson (and a runthrough of the pattern right before an Equitation or Horsemanshipclass). I also do coach from the rail, but my style is more moralsupport and giving kudos for a great ride than actual coaching. Icannot stand trainers who scream at their students across the arena,it's unprofessional and many judges frown on it.

Make sure yougive your horse a break between classes (which also goes to theoverschooling issue) to allow them to relax, have a drink, take a'potty break' and just plain enjoy him or herself. This sort of policymakes for a much happier, more sound horse and that translates tobetter rides. Never forget, it's about your partnership with yourmount, doing your best and camaraderie with your friends, NOT aboutwinning ribbons.

If your horse does not have flying lead changesnailed, don't ask for them! Better to execute a good, smooth simplechange and make it look effortless than have a disastrous moment in anotherwise nearly flawless ride. Never, ever lose your temper with yourhorse…especially in front of your judge. In most circuits doing so willget you ejected from the ring if not from the showgrounds. Keep goodsportsmanship in mind, ALWAYS. It doesn't matter if you got a greenribbon instead of a blue one thanks to a careless spectator, it doesn'tmatter if your horse picked up the wrong lead because another exhibitorran their horse into yours, none of that matters in the big picture.Hold your temper.

One lesson I learned many years ago was not toargue with your judge, nor to correct him or her. As an exhibitor whocompetes primarily on Arabian horses, I frequently encounter judges whohave zero experience with my breed. Comments I have heard range from"Make sure your horse's hind legs are SQUARE in Halter and Showmanshipclasses" to "Your horse carries himself with too much of an arch to hisneck" to a myriad of other comments. My response is to politely smile,nod and carry on about showing my horses. ;)

~SFTS

Show Ring Ready Revisited

2012-01-27T23:58:00.001-08:00

My apologies...this is a repeat of a post that went up on this blog back in October of 2009. However, in my opinion it's such an excellent topic, it warrants being put here again. Enjoy!!

This is going to be about tips and tricks (as the title suggests) for excelling in the show ring. We've covered similar topics before, and we have discussed tack, attire and grooming suggestions and though I am sure we shall revisit those again, I'm not going into that now. This time it's just good, old fashioned "how can I improve my performance, get the most out of my horse and enhance our showing experience".

That said, one tip I've not covered before related to attire is to bring along a pair of sweats and an older t-shirt (short or long sleeved, depending on what you're wearing) so you can keep your show clothes clean. I thought this was a BRILLIANT idea if you have more than a few classes all lumped together and run at the same time, but not have to spend so much time changing into and out of your show outfits. Great advice I wish I would have thought of sooner (which sounds like a no-brainer, doesn't it)!

I am a 'serial watcher'. Always have been. So when I have students and clients who are new to the showing scene, I am sure to bring them out to not one, but several shows of whatever level they are going to be showing at (and, of course, we always start out the rank beginners at the local open/schooling show level). It's going to be a show that we are NOT attending with horses competing at first, then later they come with us to a show in order to get an idea of how things go when you're riding into the spotlight. Finally, it's showtime! When we attend that first show (or shows), we talk. A lot. We discuss expectations, what the judges are looking for, I like to have them do a little bit of 'judging' themselves as we watch classes so they have an in depth concept of just what we, as horse show exhibitors, are seeking to accomplish.

Along the lines of watching, which is always an excellent suggestion for all if for no other reason than to get an idea of what's in fashion and what the judges are looking for at the start of each new show season (and yes, along with the various attire fads will be new training strategies and methods as well as a variance in what certain judges want over last year). Taking notes, photographing or videotaping what you like and dislike ~ though I would suggest you ask a participant or entrant's permission before capturing them on film as a courtesy, and be sure to tell them why ~ can be a terrific way to know how to plan what to buy and what you should be working on with your horse. Also, during a break or after the show requesting to speak with the judge(s) can be a beneficial way to get information "straight from the horse's mouth", so to speak. They may be willing to give you pointers on how to best present yourself and your horse. You must be sure to go through the proper channels, though, and contact show officials to make sure of the right time and place to accomplish this.

Here, in the following paragraphs, we are going to explore a few of the vitally important things exhibitors can do to enhance their performances. Let's start with some basics and go from there.

Often you will hear instructors and trainers mention "riding defensively", just as in driver's education during high school you'll hear that mumbo-jumbo about "driving defensively". However, being defensive generally implies that you are having to defend what you're doing because you may be doing something wrong. I would rather ride offensively, making my own way and path, taking my ride into MY hands instead of simply trying to survive out there.

Assuming you are riding in a ring full of those less capable, who don't pay attention to where they are going, who will more than likely cut you off, ride into you and blow YOUR ride, above all else in importance is to pay attention to those around you so you can ensure no one else is going to cause you to lose your class. Keep your eye on horses that may have given their riders trouble in the warm-up ring, and on occasion glance around to see if anyone's horse is out of control. It doesn't have to be obvious, in fact it's better to be less conspicuous. But be aware! It may mean the difference between someone's horse running into yours and getting the gate, versus bringing home the blue ribbon.

One of my favorite saying to my students is, ride your ring! You have to command that ring, stay in control, use that rail and know how to stay out of trouble.

Some trainers want their students to stay on the rail, no matter what. While I prefer my riders stay on the rail, if you need to move around someone or get away from a horse that's acting up, by all means do so. What I can't stand (as an exhibitor and a judge, both) are those riders who circle the judge, taking the shortest circuit around the ring. It's not a race, folks! Many times I have almost been run over because there are horses playing "Ring Around The Rosie". Not fun! Negotiating traffic in the show ring is simply a fact of life. Just don't make it harder on yourself (and your horse) than it needs to be.

Another place riders sometimes fail to give themselves a shot at a nice rail pass is in the corners. USE THEM! Riding deep into a corner when the majority of your competition will be cutting those same corners can set you up nicely to be seen.

Circles and cutting across the arena safely (that being the key word here) are always an acceptable means of putting your horse in the right place at the right time. Getting stuck in a pack of horses or being blocked from the judge's view won't help you.

What about the horse who listens more to the show ring announcer than his rider? Some of the old campaigners do this on a regular basis, and even many trainers don't seem to know how to deal with it other than to heavily school the horse during a class. Now let's stop right here - I do not have an issue with schooling an out of control horse, or a naughty mount that knows the difference between the warm-up ring and the show arena, or schooling at home versus competing. My approach differs from many, because I like to set up "mock horse shows" where that horse simply must learn to pay attention to the rider and not the announcer. Easy? Not always. You have to have a number of riders and horses, all of you have to do your pre-show prep and it can't be the same old arena at home. Your horse already listens there, right? So, you've got to make certain the horse thinks he's at a real show. You also have to have access to the P.A. system, too…though in a pinch you can use a loud boom-box and recorded commands at intervals that make sense. Yes, you CAN do it. It just takes a little bit of planning and preparation.

Okay, as I've said before, I use the small open shows as a training ground for the big leagues. You must keep in mind, however, that some folks do participate in local show circuits for year end high point awards and those who do take them very seriously. Therefore, be mindful that you don't blow someone else's ride by schooling your horse. By doing so you could cause them to lose a silver buckle or even a saddle! My rule of thumb for schooling is, you can still follow all directions of the judge, ring steward and announcer. I can't stand it when someone schools their horse at a lope while everyone else is jogging. Follow the darn class and obey the commands given!

Another of my major pet peeves is transitions. Years ago at one of our local show circuits, when it came time to go from a walk to a lope (for instance), everyone down the line would pick up their lead, in order of how you happened to be in that line. That and it had to be INSTANT, so if you were first in line, that very second the announcer requested that lope, you had better get your horse moving. I'm sorry, in my world it just does not work that way. There I was, odd[wo]man out anyhow because I was riding an Arabian in a sea of Quarter Horses and Paints, and I…Gasp…requested that my horse lope when I felt he was ready, regardless of what my fellow exhibitors were doing. There is never a need to rush your horse. Don't forget that! Of course, you don't want to take an entire circuit around the ring before you request the lope, hoping for that "just right" perfect timing. Let me tell you, it's probably not gonna happen like that. You need to be at least somewhat prompt, even while not immediately launching into the next gait. Something I always tell my students is, set your horse up before you change gaits. Simple preparedness can win you a class, especially if the judge is watching you (or wants to see you perform various transitions). Remember as well, the same goes for down transitions. I really dislike it when a judge will ask for the halt from a hand gallop or even the canter. Your horse had better have good brakes! Many judges will not penalize you for not instantly bringing your horse to a stop, but some will. Hence why you should know what your judges are looking for before you show. Also - be sure you know if your horse is on the correct lead. If you cannot feel it in your seat, work on it until you can. Nothing says "newbie who doesn't know how to ride" like a horse on a wrong lead.

Just as important as taking your time to ask for that lope or canter and get your leads right (any transition, really) is making certain when riding an English seat that you get your diagonals at the trot correct. You really have to take the time and you'll never get marked down if you sit a few strides before rising. I would much rather you get it right than jump into your post and pick it up wrong, then have to change your diagonal. As with everything else, it does take practice, however it's an essential skill you need to know.

In the future we'll continue this subject. Until then, put in some great rides and get yourself ready to go show!

~SFTS

Excitement Abound!

2012-01-26T09:34:00.000-08:00

This is going to be a super short post this morning because I don't have much time to be writing today. Our next ETI Corral 88 meeting is this evening and we're going to be making all sorts of plans for the year so don't miss out. Lots of trail rides and other activities for local horse owners.

I'm judging at the Mustang-Spirit horse rescue ACTHA Competitive Trail Challenge this weekend. If you are not familiar with ACTHA, check them out here ~ ~ it's a really cool organization and their rides are too much fun.

Thanks so much for reading...see you in the show ring or out on the trail!!

And They’re Off! Retraining The Ex-Racehorse

2012-01-25T21:27:00.000-08:00

These days, a very common means of acquiring an inexpensive horse is to get yourself what we commonly refer to as an "OTTB" (which stands for Off Track Thoroughbred racehorse). Sure, people have been taking these horses and giving them a second career for ages, but in a poor economy there are both more horses in need of being moved into new homes off the racetrack and fewer people who can afford to buy a more expensive already trained (or in this case re-trained) horse.

Some of you may not know that as a general rule, racehorses are on an extremely high grain diet, which along with being in peak condition after coming off the track and expecting the same conditions in his life that he's always known can make things a challenge. At least these days most racehorses aren't being pumped full of anabolic steroids, because they're not allowed on the racetrack anymore, though there could easily be high energy feeds as well as other drugs in their systems. A majority of horses that come off the track have suffered some sort of career ending injury, and you can bet it's been treated with something. With those OTTB's I've dealt with, I prefer to give them a good 60 days to "let down" and learn how to be a normal horse. During this time, all I'm going to be giving them is high quality hay and perhaps a low starch, low carb ration mixed with probiotics.

It's always a good idea to have your veterinarian thoroughly check the horse out and give you a game plan to ensure the horse is in good health as well as to make note of any physical issues or injuries. Ulcers are quite common in many racehorses as well, which can easily be diagnosed by your veterinarian. Okay, sometimes not so easily...however keeping your eyes open as to the symptoms of an ulcer horse and treating a horse with such symptoms can go a long ways toward making him healthy and happy. If it turns out he doesn't have ulcers after all, the treatments for that condition won't hurt him.

Supposing, for the sake of this article, the horse you've recently taken in off the racetrack is healthy and sound, you'll need to develop a work plan to teach him how to go along with his new routine. Contrary to popular belief, my experience with OTTB's has largely been they come around amazingly quickly and it really is not all that difficult to get them moved into other jobs. By nature they're extremely athletic and most of them have an exceptionally strong work ethic. One of the places I start with a horse fresh off the racetrack is to teach them how to crosstie. What I've found is that most of them have no idea how the process works and they tend to be confused. I'll approach this training essentially the same as I do with teaching babies how to tie in the first place.

Another often perplexing and difficult thing you will have to deal with when taking one of these horses off the track is leading. Starting at the beginning with basic "whoa" lessons and training on the leadline, just like with tying, you can avoid most issues. Many former racehorses have never really been taught to respect their handler's space and tend to crowd. This does not need to be made into a major ordeal, just simple common sense and methodical training, again just like a baby. All of your ground work will essentially be like starting fresh from scratch, only easier because they have had a considerable amount of training already and they do know what it's like to have a rider on their backs.

Progressing along, I want to accustom the horse to training on the longeline, in a bitting rig, in longlines and other basic ground work. We've also found over the years that having small obstacles to negotiate (such as ground poles to walk over and so forth) helps these horses immensely with understanding where their feet are and basic body control that's accomplished with most two and three year old pleasure, show or trail horses. I like to use such training as ground work (and later under saddle work) for all horses. Even the older already trained or finished horses go back to ground work on occasion.

I always re-start the off track horses identically to every other horse with very few exceptions. Obviously, they need to get used to a much heavier saddle than they've ever carried (particularly because I get on them for the first couple of weeks in a Western saddle until they're going forward confidently, and sometimes regularly thereafter). Mounting is another issue that hopefully won't become problematic. To diffuse most situations which can arise with mounting one of these horses, I make sure they're trained to stand at a mounting block before ever thinking about getting on, because usually I don't have someone handy to boost me into the saddle as the horse will be expecting.

Using a mounting block and training a horse to stand next to one is not difficult either, but like any type of training we do, patience is a must. You should have already gone over "whoa" training and the horse should fully understand that word means STOP NOW, cease all movement and plant your feet! Don't make a big deal out of any mis-step, go back and repeat each exercise or concept until the horse cooperates every time. Just like with starting a baby for the first time, I like to make sure to spend some time in one stirrup, 'hanging' off the side of the horse, and I repeat this on both sides. Eventually, you will be able to mount up from the ground with no problem. Since many (if not most) racehorses, at least in my experience, want to walk or even trot off as soon as you mount up, this is an area you'll want to spend a good deal of extra time on.

I always use a round pen or small enclosed area to get on any horse for the first time in training, if you don't have access to a round pen, you can use an uncovered 24x24 pipe paddock...just don't ride under a shelter (which can be hazardous to your health)! This way, with a former racehorse, I don't worry about being ponied or led ~ the horse knows what being ridden means and they understand how to follow the fence. Staying out of the horse's face is vitally important, you can retrain them to accept and understand contact in time. First rides on an off track horse for me usually are walking, with a little bit of "follow your face" in circles using a leading rein with plenty of slack on the off side of your turn.

These horses have been taught to take hold of the bit as opposed to yielding to it, so take the time to help them slowly learn what it means to give. Voluminous praise when he does something right, and if you prefer, a treat (though I'm still not the most keen person on treat training) will go a long ways toward helping him understand what you want and comply with your requests in a relaxed manner. Soon your ex-racer will be a willing partner.

Another thing your retired racehorse must become accustomed to is your legs against his sides as well as your seat in the saddle. Straightness will come later on, using only light contact with your legs and concentrating on getting the horse to relax is the task at hand for these early rides. By that I mean you'll probably spend most of your time at this stage bending the horse, allowing him to stretch down (which they learn quickly to enjoy) and if he starts to get nervous or act like he's going to launch into a familiar gallop, taking a cross hold until he yields. As long as you stay consistent and don't let his nerves get to you, you'll both be fine.

One of the last tests you'll need to make sure the ex-racehorse passes is being ridden with other horses, first in the arena and later on, if you desire, on the trail. Being naturally socialized animals who prefer to live in the company of other horses, most of them adjust easily and don't revert to their prior training (catch the other horse, pass the other horse) as long as you make it easy for them to do the right thing and listen to you. My favorite means of getting them out with others is to have the quietest horse in the barn as their riding partner, the horse that nothing bothers, nothing upsets and does not spook.

Of course, if you are a novice or newbie horse owner, I DO NOT suggest getting a former racehorse. While these horses are a ton of fun, be sure you are fully prepared for the task at hand. Whether in the show ring or going down the trail, you'll be sure to have the time of your life.

~SFTS

What Should My Horse’s Job Be? And How Can I Help Him Be The Best He Can Be?

2012-01-24T23:11:00.000-08:00

This is a topic I’ve covered previously, however it’s a good one and there are many different schools of thought on how a horse can wear multiple hats, or I guess better put, multiple saddles, literally speaking. Recently a friend who’s a diehard fan of Western Pleasure started dabbling in Dressage (well, the owner did not, the owner’s horse did with his trainer). My response was a huge resounding cheer, and not only because I fully believe the horse is capable of being a competitive Dressage horse.

Let’s put it this way, ANY horse can make a Dressage prospect, and many can become competitive on the local level or at the lower levels, including those who are athletic enough to be Western horses. Yes, you read that right. In order to be a competitive Western mount a horse has to be supremely athletic, just as those competing in most English disciplines.

So now we’re going to get down to the business at hand. We can start by examining the horse piece by piece conformationally and deciding what he’s bound to excel at. Obviously, if you’ve got a great big 17 hand Thoroughbred, one of the first things that will come to mind is jumping. If your horse has done Dressage, it’s not much of a stretch to train that horse to go over fences.

But what if your horse happens to be a little, petite Arabian or a Quarter Horse who’s relatively short in stature, yet rather rotund? Either should be able to do Intro Level Dressage in addition to whatever else they usually excel in. Now, this might sound like nothing more than an advertisement for the United States Dressage Federation, however that’s not the case at all. Many local clubs put on unrated Dressage shows, and your horse doesn’t even need to be a Warmblood in order to compete successfully!

What about if you’ve always competed in English classes and would like to explore Western for a change? Not every horse will have the capability to be an ideal Western Pleasure horse, but there are a variety of things you can do with your horse under Western tack where he’s not going to be required to totally change his frame or way of going. Trail is one of those classes, as long as he doesn’t mind obstacles. If he’s gone over fences in his “former life”, getting over some trail obstacles without making a mess of them should not be a problem. Other alternatives are Team Sorting or Team Penning, both of which are a barrel of fun, you just need to make sure your horse deals with being around running cattle.

Your short answer on how to make your horse be the best he can be is easy: Training. I’m not advising you to spend beaucoup dollars sending your horse out to the top trainer in whatever discipline you’re thinking about transitioning your horse over into, simply seeking out a good instructor to help you with your own training. If your horse is already trained, adding something new to his repertoire is not going to be all that hard.

Most importantly, have fun!! After all, that is what owning, riding, training and competing on horses is all about!!

~SFTS

A Rider's Foundation ~ Part I

2012-01-23T21:59:00.000-08:00

Most of the time when I write this blog, I speak of training the horse. After all, the concept here is about training horses and all of the various methods, techniques or philosophies thereof. But something we can never forget is the rider, because without the rider, we would have no trained horse to ride.

Unless you happen to be an extremely naturally athletic individual, learning to ride will be a difficult journey and you will need to learn entirely new skills, as well as be able to apply them to an animal with a mind of its own. There are so many things to learn and so many ways you can learn them, which means both good and bad. I personally prefer to teach the absolute beginner starting from scratch, as opposed to the rider who has already formed some sort of opinion (and along with it often some bad habits) on how best to do things on horseback. Let's concentrate on bringing along the beginner student in this installment, which means we need to run through a series of lessons, starting from the beginning.

After we get the horse groomed, tacked and out to the round pen or arena, our lesson is going to begin with the student mounting the horse. Depending on several factors, we will either mount from the ground or off a mounting block. Either way, the rider's right hand should firmly grip the left stirrup and the other should be on the reins at the base of the horse's neck. Once the left foot is in the stirrup, the rider should move that hand to the front of the saddle, and swing up onto the horse's back. The taller the horse, the more challenging this task is, which is why we may utilize a mounting block. After the rider is settled in the saddle, I'll set about showing them proper position. Starting with the seat, legs, arms, hands and shoulders, I'm going to explain at each step what I'm looking for and why.

I want my riders settled in the saddle, not perched forward or slouched back. Riders need to be aware of how to properly sit (which seems positively simple, doesn't it?), and keep their weight distributed evenly. A rider's legs should be relaxed and against the side of the horse, with no pressure applied when standing still. Weight resting on the ball of the foot, with heels down, toes mostly forward. I say "mostly" forward, because the old train of thought from 30 or so years ago was that the toes should be pointed STRAIGHT forward, which I find awkward and incorrect for proper riding. Toes should never be pointed outward or down, though when cueing the horse there is room for a slight variance as you rotate your calves into the horse. Having the stirrups properly adjusted will go a very long way toward being able to ride correctly and communicate effectively with your horse.

To be effective (you'll hear me say that word a lot), a rider's arms should be at their side, though exactly where varies depending on the discipline they're riding. I start out all my beginner riders Western, and using two hands on the reins with a snaffle bit in the horse's mouth, so we begin with a basic position. Arms from the shoulder to the elbow relatively straight at the side, if slightly ahead of the hip. I want to see a nice bend in the elbow, though generally not more than 90 degrees unless cueing the horse. As the rider advances (on a trained or finished horse), the need for more bend becomes less. Ideally, I'd like to see a relatively straight line from elbow to the horse's mouth.

Hand position is vital because of how much communication you can do with your hands. I don't want to see a rider's hands too close together, as many trainers have them start out. Opening up the distance slightly will increase your ability to communicate with your horse. They should not be held too close to the horse, nor too high above the saddle. In a Western saddle, those hands will be higher than while riding most types of English, other than Saddleseat (and even then, when first starting out, I'll have my riders keep their hands lower than ideal for the show ring).

One of my basic tenets of good riding is, no death grip on the reins! I want the rider's hands softly closed around the reins with thumbs slightly bent upward, not horizontal to the horse's withers. Wrists should not be bent backward or forward (sometimes referred to as "puppy paws"), but in line with the arms. Shoulders should be back but relaxed, not rigid -- something I really don't like to see are the riders who arch their backs and artificially pull their shoulders back to the extremes. This makes for exceptionally ineffective riding. All of these tips can help a rider to become competent, gain seat control and not balance on their horse's mouth using the reins.

Now that we have the basics, in a future installment we can continue the lesson. Remember, riding is a learned skill. Don’t worry if everything isn’t picture perfect the first time, with time your skills will improve as long as you take it slow. Just like with our horses, skipping steps will show up in your riding. I always recommend taking lessons with a skilled instructor who understands your needs.

~SFTS

What a Weekend!

2012-01-22T19:30:00.000-08:00

I almost can't wait for the proverbial "work week" to begin, just so I can get a little bit of rest!

But seriously, this has been quite the weekend and there wasn't even a show or competitive trail ride. After a full week of working horses and getting ready for our show season to begin next month, I headed off to Pasadena and the Rose Bowl Riders (where Buck Brannaman is doing a clinic in late February) for Equestrian Trails, Inc's 3rd Annual President's Luncheon at 8:30 AM on Saturday, then got back in time to get several horses worked lightly before I just couldn't take the wind anymore.

Last night I received a message from Under the Angel's Wings Rescue that they needed a horse moved ASAP so, me being me, I jumped right in and said SURE! Headed out the front gate at 7:30 AM, picked the mare up some 80 miles away, brought her back to Pinon Hills then headed off to ride horses in training. After yet another full day, I just got back inside to settle in for the night about 12 hours after I left. And I sometimes wonder where the time goes!! Running here, running there, never a dull moment.

I've been putting together our show schedule for the year and it looks to be another busy one. I'm going to be reviewing many of the show ring topics we've covered here as well, to see what should be updated and revised. There is so much subject matter I have written about, and I'm always seeking new things to add to old ideas. Plus if you have any suggestions, be sure to let me know!

On another note, come the first weekend in February, I have already mentioned the Horse Expo Pomona ~ Suzi Drnec Vilestra from Hobby Horse Clothing is doing a few seminars on show attire and fashion in the show ring. It should be a great time. If you're there, look me up! Shoot me an email and I'll keep an eye out for you, I'm going to be there all day, every day of the Expo.

And now it's time for dinner, a nice cup of hot chocolate and bed! Only to get up and do it all over again tomorrow. :)

~SFTS

It's the Right Time for the Right Horse...

2012-01-21T23:34:00.000-08:00

...but unfortunately, too many people get stuck with the wrong horse, over and over and over. This can happen in a variety of ways, mainly when folks want to become horse owners and have no idea how to begin or who to trust. Frequently, they wind up trusting the wrong people and that's where the trouble starts.

There really are very few ways to know for sure you're getting involved with someone you can trust and who won't steer you wrong. One of the best is word of mouth from those you already do trust, because if a good friend or family member has nothing but praise for someone, it's a fairly decent bet they aren't going to screw you over. Another way is to seek out professional references from others in the industry, because peers will generally rate their colleagues honestly. No matter what, you still must be vigilant, ask a lot of questions and make sure if there is ever anything you are not comfortable with, you immediately get a second opinion (particularly if the answer you receive from the trainer or other equestrian professional is not suitable to you). NO question is a dumb question!

When searching for a horse, especially your first horse, being selective is imperative. Now, that doesn't mean you will find the "perfect horse" in your price range, but you can broaden your horizons if you're being too picky. I tell people, make a long list of what you want, then narrow it down to a short list of must-haves. For instance, if you're in the market for a trail horse, registration status is not necessarily going to matter, but soundness will. Shopping for a show horse is going to bring on a whole other set of criteria. Perhaps you're looking for a broodmare? Yet more questions to answer.

One of my biggest pet peeves are those who will sell inappropriate horses to new horse owners or people who have children that want to ride. All it takes is one minor mishap that can lead to a major disaster and the relationship between horse and rider is destroyed. Yes, it can happen that fast. Countless individuals have left the horse industry over the years because of unethical treatment by trainers, sellers and other industry professionals. I hear the horror stories all the time, and they make me cringe. Something I've often told people over the course of many years is, if I did not train horses myself, I'd likely not own any because there is no one out there I'd entrust the care and training of my horses to other than myself. That is a pretty sad commentary on my profession, isn't it?

Indeed, this is a topic I am going to get into more and more over the coming days and weeks, because it is such a critical one (especially in today's economy). My feelings are pretty strong where this subject is involved, because the result of potential clientele not trusting trainers or instructors directly impacts my ability to earn a living. If you like, send me your own horror stories and we'll delve deeper sometime soon.

~SFTS

It Was A Dark And Stormy Night

2012-01-20T21:33:00.000-08:00

We're battening down the hatches here, because a storm is on the way! While I know we desperately need the rain, I've been enjoying our unseasonably warm and dry Winter. Riding daily, we've even been able to keep our regular bathing schedules because of this gorgeous weather.

On another yet equally "stormy" note, there are so many horses that need homes right now things are getting downright scary in this economy. In this past week alone, I've been told about dozens of horses needing homes, most of which are free or at minimal cost. Folks simply want to or need to get out from under the expense of them.

Please consider opening your heart and your home to a horse in need this Winter. Too many are dying and suffering, we need to grow our industry until it becomes healthy once more.

This entry is going to be short, however I wanted to mention a tragedy which struck the local horse world last week, the unexpected death of Jim Hasty, owner (with wife Gail) of the beautiful Boulder Creek Ranch in Hesperia. Jim had been ill over a year ago, and had been treated for a brain tumor. Recently, he had fallen ill again and passed away one week ago today. Gail and the entire Boulder Creek family are in our thoughts.

I'm off to the ETI National President's Brunch in the morning yet again, down at the Rose Bowl Riders clubhouse in Pasadena. It should be fun!!

~SFTS

What Makes The World Go Round: Circles, lateral flexion and why you want your horse to bend

2012-01-19T23:54:00.000-08:00

If you have ever spent any length of time either riding or training horses, you have likely encountered frozen shoulders, dropped shoulders, stiffness through the body or various other issues which will prevent your horse(s) from being the best they can be. All of these issues and more can be addressed by circles and lateral flexion work. Of course, lateral work should begin way back in the ground work stage before the horse is ever mounted, however that's not always possible. With many trainers, they'll tell you how to begin the training process, but not what to do if you acquire a horse in the middle of that process or if the horse has already developed bad habits.

Here in this post, I'm going to refer to several previous entries which all relate to the training we're wanting to accomplish. Lateral work is essential to opening the lines of communication between you and your horse. Whenever I've got a new project, one of the first things I'm going to do is ensure the horse is laterally flexible. Back in 2009, I published an article on this blog about suppling your horse, here. Flexion then circling, counter bending and asking the horse to lift his shoulders and raise his back are key points in these exercises. But, pulling the horse's face around to my leg is NOT what I'm looking for, to me, that's going about it the wrong way. Often all this does is creates a horse that refuses to accept contact with the bit and pretty soon you have a horse who, with the slightest pressure on a rein, flings his head toward your leg.

Which brings me to the so called "hard mouthed" horse. I wrote a post on these types of horses back a couple of years ago, too. This entry here gets into what causes and creates what some people call "hard mouthed" horses. In actuality, these are horses who have been trained to lean on their riders. They're not soft and supple, they're decidedly not flexible. For this reason, many trainers will suggest to folks (and you see this frequently on those RFD-TV horse training shows...) that they "teach their horses to flex". Doing so does NOT fix the problem, generally it makes the problem worse.

What's the ultimate in performance we want out of our horses? Collection, correct? Trouble is, both laypersons as well as too many trainers think merely slowing a horse down constitutes collection. I wrote all about that on this blog, as well. You'll find that entry here. You achieve collection through a series of building blocks (training exercises), not yanking on the horse's mouth to slow him. This is yet another place where lateral flexion and circles both small and large can help your horse, and thus your riding, immensely.

Before you can begin circle work, your horse must be balanced and to have a balanced horse, you've got to have a reasonably balanced rider. Why are circles important? Because they showcase that balance and your horse's suppleness and responsiveness. These traits are important for any horse, of any breed, in any discipline whether you show or simply ride down the trail. Don't forget to ride your horse front to back, not the other way around. Oftentimes riders get that part backwards. Concentrate every bit as much on the horse's hindquarters as you do on his front end and you'll be rewarded with a soft, supple horse who's a joy to ride.

I begin each exercise at the walk, preferring to stay away from too much flexing at a halt once the horse has a basic grasp of what I'm asking. After he understands how to use his body in a circle at the walk, I'll progress to a trot and eventually a canter, but I don't want to skip steps -- I want to ensure my horses have a decent grasp of the subject matter before moving on and trying to cram too much knowledge into them all at once. Once the horse has mastered lateral bending and simple circles, I'll add figure eights, spirals and serpentines into the routine. Spirals can be accomplished all the way through the canter, as can figure eights (using easy, relaxed simple changes of lead for a vast majority of horses). Serpentines are best used as trot exercises.

Summing up this evening's entry, I'll go back and answer the question raised by the title...why do you want your horse to bend? Because having a flexible horse means a far more trainable horse and generally a more balanced horse (provided you work each side equally, only concentrating on one side slightly more to the horse's "worst" direction).

~SFTS

Project Pony!

2012-01-18T21:50:00.000-08:00

Why and how do I get myself into these things?

Here's the story...a friend of mine has a friend who needs to find a home for her small pony ASAP. I tentatively said I'll take him, if he's something I can use for children's lessons. All she knows about him is he's supposed to be "good with kids", however that can mean different things to different people.

Today I took a friend with me over to take a look at him, and while I'd like to say I was not prepared for what I saw or surprised, I cannot. He came trotting up and nickered at me as I approached his paddock. Two things I immediately noticed were how thin he was (complete with wormy belly) and the fact that his hind feet looked to be a good 6-7 inches long. Keep in mind, this is a pony of about 10 hands.

She had already been through bringing one back from the brink of death recently (Meet Aneela: http://www.facebook.com/pages/Aneelas-Page/284752054878493?ref=ts) as well as rescued a 16h gelding who had been used as a pony horse and outrider's mount then abandoned at the Santa Anita racetrack, and she's not inclined to take on any more projects at the moment. Neither am I, my plate is full and the inn is decidedly full! I can make exceptions if the individual would be suitable for my program, just not dozens of those who need serious rehab and training. Sadly, this boy needs both.

This is the adorable little bugger~

So if you happen to be in the general area, he is in Pinon Hills and needs to find a home just about yesterday. Get in touch with me and I will make sure you're hooked up.

Which brings me to a topic that I want to touch more on later, that is folks getting horses or ponies they're truly not prepared to handle and who prove to be too much for them. Without some common sense and at least a little bit of background in equine education, too many people just jump in unaware. It's a miracle more people don't get hurt, particularly children.

There are many predatory people in the horse industry, especially here in the High Desert. They go to the low end auctions and pick up cheap horses, often lame or rank, and resell them to unsuspecting newbie horse owners who just don't know any better. Suddenly, when they can't handle the horse, the Miracle Pro steps in to save the day...only to charge outrageous amounts for "training" the horse.

Hey, I have an idea! How about NOT selling people inappropriate horses in the first place?

Okay, enough of my rant for one night. You can read more of my feelings on this topic another time, it's a sure bet this is one topic that will be revisited!!

~SFTS

Great Beginnings

2012-01-17T23:31:00.000-08:00

Here we are, in the middle of the third week of a new year and I had planned on writing an excellent post about a training topic for today. After a long, exhausting day and a very busy evening, needless to say I did not get around to it! But, I am being more diligent about posting. Right?

Part of that excitement I began writing about last weekend are the new clients and students who are coming into the Sunlit Farm family ~ and I do consider each and every one of them part of our extended family. We are so blessed with amazing people who believe in us, including so many former clients and students who have lined up in support...some of whom have brought horses back into training and some of whom intend to do so in the future. You ALL mean so much to us!

Our year is starting off with a bang, with our first horse show of the season now less than a month away on February 12th down in Mira Loma. This weekend I will be attending the ETI National President's Brunch; the following weekend I am judging the ACTHA Competitive Trail Challenge ride hosted by Mustang-Spirit Horse Rescue; and during the first weekend of February our Sunlit Farm and Rancho Indulto crew will be at Horse Expo Pomona for the entire event.

So with all that said, I'll be signing off for the evening. Happy trails!

~SFTS

In Focus: How To Achieve Your Riding Goals

2012-01-16T22:09:00.000-08:00

Today I'd like to address how to reach the goals you set with your horses. Let me start by saying, I begin every ride, every work session, every day with a game plan. For each horse, I've decided what we're going to work on before the saddle ever goes on.

Being focused on what you want to accomplish with your horse is so important, I can't stress enough how having goals (make sure they are attainable goals) is vitally important to your success with your horse. Even if you never intend to set foot into a show ring, setting and reaching goals will accelerate your progress. Depending on your horse, what you request of him during a work session can be as simple as getting a calm walk on a loose rein or as difficult as a flying lead change. Remain focused on the path to your end goal, not the goal itself.

If I have a nervous horse that wants to bolt, my plan is likely to first address calming the horse and getting him to focus on his job, then work on the underlying issue. Such a horse needs to have situations set up for him to address the bolting behavior, but be able to control his trajectory when he takes off. What I mean by that is simple ~ create circumstances which may likely cause the horse to bolt off, because only then you can actually fix the problem. Of course, it helps to know what sets a bolting horse off, and most of them do have certain triggers. With such a horse, each ride needs to start out with the same routine, so the horse gains confidence. The end goal will be a horse that no longer bolts, however the daily goals need to be far more simple, such as getting a nice, relaxed walk and an unhurried, unrushed halt. Then a horse who moves off at a nice trot in a relaxed manner. It's all about using those "building blocks of training" I'm so fond of talking about.

Having step-by-step instructions for how to manage your rides can help many people, but you've got to be consistent. I like structure, and I believe most horses do, too. Horses are herd animals, and they are always looking for the herd leader...in this instance, we (the rider) are that leader. In training, we can use that to our advantage. Each work session begins the same way, with the horse being worked on the longeline or in the round pen (depending on available facilities). Allowing the horse to loosen up before getting down to the real work of the day is essential to having a horse that's ready to learn. That said, eventually I like to be sure I can just hop on without the longeing, and find different ways to warm up.

You can easily write out a little schedule by the week, I prefer to use a dry erase board. Remember, keep your daily goals simple and easy to accomplish, working up to bigger weekly and monthly goals. Before you know it, you'll have conquered that major goal and have something to celebrate!

~ SFTS

Heartbreak...

2012-01-15T22:29:00.000-08:00

There I was, minding my own business on a Saturday night chatting online with friends and clients when I notice a post regarding a Half-Arabian mare that was at one of our notorious Southern California low end auctions. She was a horse I'd looked at for sale several years ago, but she was out of my price range (in the five figures). My hands were tied, she was set to go through the auction ring any moment and I was more than an hour's drive away.

I waited with bated breath to hear any news, when it came I was entirely unprepared: She sold for a mere $205. Having been involved in horse rescue for so many years, I knew the possibility of a good outcome for any horse of Arabian blood, particularly a hot, Half-Saddlebred Country English Pleasure horse, at this particular auction is not promising. So, I have embarked on a search to find out where she went and to hopefully bring her home.

Her name is Baronnessa, and this is she-

Many years ago, I embarked on a similar journey regarding another bay horse in the late 1980's/early 1990's. His name was Kilometer and he was a son of National Top Ten Halter and Park stallion *Perkal, out of a daughter of the *Talal son Taleeze named Monicaleeze.

At the time Kilometer came into my life, I was training out of a facility in Temecula, California called Daamascus Arabians (named after one of their stallions, who was sired by the Comet son *Carycyn). He was a stunning solid bay Purebred Arabian gelding who had National Championship potential in both Halter and English Pleasure. Every day, I had the pleasure of working him and he simply took my breath away. I did try to purchase him, however they had priced him at $5000 which was more than I could afford as a young trainer barely out of my teens. My offer was $2000, which was declined. My departure from Daamascus meant losing touch with many great horses, however I always kept Kilometer in my mind and in my heart.

One day after I'd gotten married and moved on to bigger and better things in my training career, not to mention was pregnant with my daughter, I happened to be at the famous Broken Horn tack store in Baldwin Park. Upon perusing their bulletin board, I noticed a flyer for a dispersal sale of horses in Temecula. Recognizing the bloodlines and many of the names, I knew it was the Daamascus herd. That evening upon getting home, I called the woman who was showing the horses to prospective buyers and learned some startling news ~ they had all been auctioned off at the ranch only days before in a spectacle of television camera crews and horse rescuers. My heart sank.

That wonderful woman put me in touch with the son of Daamascus Arabians' deceased owner and I was able to find out who bought Kilometer. Three women who were fast friends paid a whopping $500 for him and intended to find him a permanent home. I got lucky and he gave me the name of one of the three who was the main contact, as well as a city she lived in. I was able to not only locate her address, but called the Postmaster in her city to get directions so I could pay her a visit to talk about that beautiful bay horse.

Prior to my heading for Orange County, I sat down and wrote these ladies a letter, figuring if no one answered the door, I would leave it on her doorstep. My story sounded pretty bizarre, that someone would go to so much trouble to track down a horse...especially a gelding. My luck would hold out, she answered the door. I prefaced my tale with, "You may think this sounds crazy, but," and I poured out my heart to her. By the time I went home that day, I had the name and telephone number of the partner who actually had Kilometer at her facility.

My husband and I made an appointment to go visit him and plan his acquisition. He was still the same remarkably beautiful boy I remembered and of course, I immediately knew I had to have him. We agreed on a price and by the time we were on the road for home, Kilometer's saviors had tasked me with writing up a sales contract. They were offering me extremely generous terms, keeping in mind I'd have to board him and was a young newlywed with a baby on the way.

Yet another roadblock surfaced when we discovered that he had never been transferred out of his breeder's name. From when I'd had him in training, I had a copy of his registration papers, so I knew who the breeder was. But upon contacting the Arabian Horse Registry, I discovered she was deceased. Back in those days, long before the widely available internet and prior to AHRA's releasing their stud book on CD (precursor to today's online DataSource), the good folks at the AHRA were reluctant to give out information to third parties with regard to recorded owners. By some strange twist of fate, the lady I spoke with at AHRA's offices that day let it slip not only that this breeder had two authorized signers on her account, but their names and even where one of them lived. Score!!

Both the breeder's son and daughter were allowed to do business on their mother's account with AHRA. I had a lead on where the son lived. Calling him was nerve wracking, however his kindness immediately put me at ease and before too long, I had his sister's phone number. She was so happy to hear about how Kilometer was doing and that I loved him enough to go to so much work tracking him as well as his history down. By the end of that conversation, I had been assured the registration papers would be signed over to me.

As it turns out, he had been put in training with Vittex Arabians in Santa Ynez, the precursor to Daamascus. His owner had fallen ill and fallen behind on paying for his board and training, then passed away. The woman's daughter was then put in charge of her estate and all the horses, but it was too late. Instead of going through the proper legal channels to gain ownership, they simply took him for what was owed when they moved to Temecula. She had been trying to find out whatever became of him ever since he disappeared out of the Santa Ynez Valley. I was so glad to be able to fill in so many details for her.

Then disaster struck. One evening I received a message on my answering machine that I needed to give Kilometer's caretaker a call, she had news I may not want to hear. I immediately called her and my heart sank once more...he was diagnosed as a navicular horse. They had noticed him slightly off when being longed, and decided to have the vet out, who confirmed his status through x-rays. As soon as I got off the phone with her, I called my own veterinarian to discuss my beloved horse's future. While I knew the prognosis was not good, there was simply nothing positive about that conversation.

These women were willing to GIVE him to me, for free. Considering my situation, that I'd have needed to board him (since we lived in a tiny one bedroom apartment) as well as being more than seven months pregnant at the time, I knew I had to turn him down. That broke my heart. When last I heard, Kilometer had found a pasture puff home in Northern Arizona where he could live out his days without ever being asked to work again. Hopefully he led a long, healthy and content life.

Now back to my present situation ~ I just want to bring Baronnessa home. Wish us luck.

~SFTS

Welcome, 2012!

2012-01-14T10:05:00.000-08:00

Yes, it's two weeks belated, but no less heartfelt!

We have so much happening that once again, I've neglected this poor blog. I know, I seem to say I'll get better about that every time, and I begin with the best of intentions. So, no promises this time other than to myself!

So far the month of January has been just beautiful, such a change from last year. Brilliant sunshine, unseasonably warm temperatures and we are gearing up for a phenomenal year in 2012. New clients, new horses in training, a brand new energized board of directors for ETI Corral 88 (with yours truly being elected as President for the third year running...I am truly humbled by the support in our community) and so much hope for the upcoming show season has given us so many reasons to be excited going into this year.

Just a few tidbits of news from this past year:

In February, I took my gorgeous black NV Beau Bey gelding to Equine Affaire in Pomona to participate in their "Ride With The Best" program with Deborah Johnson. What a wonderful experience and I thank everyone so much for all their comments about my boy.

My beautiful daughter, now attending Victor Valley College, made her show ring debut in the Saddleseat discipline and rocked the house both times she's shown thus far. I am so proud of you Lisa!!

We took a client's lovely mare (Purebred Arabian) to a clinic with Diana Muravez hosted by the High Desert Chapter of the California Dressage Society at Hidden River Ranch last August and were thrilled with her performance.

Same mare as above attended her very first horse show in late October and brought home a second place ribbon in her show ring debut, in a fairly deep class. We could not be more proud of you, Belle!

Also in August my black horse made his triumphant re-entrance into the show ring at the Mojave River Valley Horsemen's Association Hot August Nights show, winning three out of four classes (placing second in the other), including the evening's biggest class of 15 horses.

Now on to bigger and better things!! As we begin this year, I want to offer many thanks to all the people who have continued to believe in us for so long ~ my incredible family, my fantastic friends and my amazing clients. Thank you all so much for your support over the years!!

~SFTS

Here We Go Again!

2011-07-01T11:29:00.000-07:00

Has it really been almost six months? Sure doesn't seem like it! We have been so busy and with precious little time to be devoting to this blog, however I made myself a promise that starting July 1st (which of course would be today) I'd make a concerted effort to do better about posting. That said, I am not about to make any promises to anyone else about how often I'll find the time to update the blog!!

Things are moving right along, aside from the fact that I've not gotten a chance yet to update my website. Hopefully soon I will have added pages and a lot more information about ETI Corral 88, the farm at Rancho Indulto, new horses in training and our schedule. Thanks to everyone for hanging in there and continuing to look for blog updates. As always, please feel free to drop me an email and we'll go from there!!

~SFTS

Soundness In Horses ~ Defining What's Acceptable

2011-01-07T23:08:00.000-08:00

What Power Lies Within The Term Dressage?

2011-01-06T23:25:00.000-08:00

Okay, so my blog or the Blogger software is acting up with my computer...we will hopefully be back to your regularly scheduled blog shortly and the posts will actually show up! :)

What Does The Term "Professional" Mean To You?

2011-01-05T22:25:00.000-08:00

It's That Time Again...

2011-01-04T21:50:00.000-08:00

Website updating time. It's been over a year now, and there is much updating to do. So, I'll be busy with that for quite some time I am sure.

I'd originally intended to have the website done and uploaded by the time January 1st rolled around, but Mother Nature had other ideas. The weather wreaked havoc on my internet connection and phone line ~ apparently interference on the telephone line disrupts DSL...who knew?? ~ because of saturated ground. Apparently, the phone company had problems all over California and the West with our series of Winter storms and flooding. I was shocked to read that the Mojave River crested at 17 feet, more than a foot over flood stage! Mind you, this is a riverbed that's normally dry.

Plans are being made, the show season ironed out, ride schedules decided upon, clinics organized and so much more. Stay tuned for updates on a regular basis, I'm going to try to get some training tips and more horse related topics up here! Including our special Equine Affair Edition.

Until then, have great rides and stay warm!

~SFTS

To Wrap Or Not To Wrap...That Is The Question

2011-01-03T12:35:00.000-08:00

One of the most frequently asked questions I get, not surprisingly, is about leg protection. Well, support and protection. Today I thought we'd examine what various types of wraps, bandages and boots available to us as horsemen and horsewomen. Just like about anything else related to horses, there are different options that work well for different purposes.

Personally, I prefer polo wraps for everything other than trail riding, longeing and turning out. For those purposes, I use good quality splint boots. I'm not a fan of sports medicine boots (or "SMB's") for several reasons. First, they tend to heat up and can blister a horse. Second, they tend to impinge the horse's movement below the knee as well as locking the fetlock joint. Third, it's rather easy for them to be pulled too tight and cause tendon (or ligament) troubles. Fourth, they do hold water more than any other form of leg boot or wrap. Those reasons alone make me shy away from their use.

For everyday use, a pair of high quality splint boots beats anything else. Of all the configurations, I like the interlocking velcro. I have some that use the metal links to run through, but they're a second tier choice. I like these, both by Professional's Choice:

Those boots pictured above above are very similar to my old Les Vogt Pro Equine boots that I used to swear by. I also like the Wrangler boots by Professional's Choice, and I have some Ed Bohlin boots that are my favorites these days.

My standby for most work are polo wraps, though I like them semi-thick and of good quality fleece. See a pattern here with that "Q" word? :) One of the reasons a lot of people shy away from wrapping are the tales of damage that can be done to a horse's legs. If you learn to wrap properly and never rush a wrapping job, you will never have to worry about injuring your horse by using wraps. For some folks I'll recommend using quilts under the wraps like a track or standing bandage. Doing so can help prevent binding and pinching, the most common means of injury in wrapping horses. As long as you don't tug the wrap, keeping steady pressure instead, and don't let the wrap (or quilt) bunch up, you should have no problem. Find a mentor who will teach you the correct way to wrap!

For some horses, I also use bell boots, which serve to protect the horse from over-reaching (thus they are also sometimes called "overreach boots") and can help prevent horses from pulling shoes off while our playing or working. These days the only kind I'll buy are those designed not to turn ~ even though they sometimes can and do ~ and with double velcro closures.

In all seriousness, wraps and boots offer far more in the way of protection than they ever will offer support. For all the studies done by manufacturers with claims of how well a boot or wrap supports the leg, much of that is merely a selling point to encourage the sensitive, sometimes gullible horse owner into thinking they are doing something good for their horse. In reality, it just feels good to the owner and does little for the horse in the way of support.

What should you do for your horse? If you're competing, you may well be limited on what you can use on your horse in the show pen or on course. Most high performance sports like Reining and Eventing allow for the use of protection, while Pleasure horses aren't able to do so. That doesn't prevent you from using protective boots or wraps while training, schooling or even warming up. Many of us do, as long as the wraps come off before you set foot into the show ring.

Hopefully this has been educational and you've taken something away from the advice offered here. Suggestions and input are always welcome!

~SFTS

Weathering The Storm(s)...

2011-01-02T09:54:00.000-08:00

This is going to be another short post, because my internet has been iffy ever since the series of storms back in December started around December 18th. Thankfully the phone company is coming out tomorrow (when it's supposed to snow) to fix the problem.

Yesterday a few of us went down to check out the Euclid Stockyards horse auction in Chino. Five registered Appys and a registered QH gelding, with virtually no one. We didn't stay to see them sell, but I suspect it wasn't pretty.

I'm working on topics for the blog while it's raining/snowing outside and too darn cold to be riding ~ though sometimes that doesn't stop me! :)

~SFTS

Happy New Year!!

2011-01-01T06:46:00.000-08:00

Well, we made it. Survived 2010. My New Year's Resolution is to finally devote time to this blog again after a roller coaster of a year.

Last week ETI Corral 88 elected our new officers and board for 2011, I'm really excited about our plans. I was re-elected President by a unanimous vote and could not be more humbled by all the support. We've got an AWESOME group. Working hand in hand with 4-H, so much is going to be accomplished for the local community.

New students, new horses in training and a full slate of shows, trail rides, clinics and other events have our plate full this year. Can't wait to get started!!

~SFTS

Phelan Phamily Phun (and other adventures)!

2010-09-13T16:32:00.000-07:00

I am really trying hard to get back into the swing of blogging. I've gotten so much feedback from so many people who really love the blog and are sad I'm not very active in posting anymore, to those folks I apologize and believe me when I say I truly appreciate all your kind words from the bottom of my heart.

Last Saturday was the Phelan Phun Day complete with a Patriots Day Parade because it was held this year on September 11th. At the last minute, we in Corral 88 decided to put together a humble little group and ride in the parade along with having the booth we'd been planning. It was a rousing success!! We had three riders (originally our group was six, it was not to be for personal reasons with several of our members) plus a restored antique Farmall tractor pulling a hay wagon filled with more members. In the parade judging we sill won third place in both the equestrian and non-equestrian categories. We are very proud of everyone who made a colossal effort to bring this together. Onward we march to the next parade!!

Check out the ETI Corral 88 website for upcoming events and information on what we're doing and what we've got in the works. There are a ton of fun events coming up ~ if you're in Southern California, stop on by and join us. :)

Back on August 21st I took my own English show mare (who made her parade debut last Saturday and was completely awesome) to a local playday for schooling. We ran in all five events, which were pole bending, single pole, keyhole, cloverleaf barrels and speed barrels. I am SO proud of this mare, she is just amazing. We didn't ribbon, they only placed to third and there were 30+ rides for each class with some real gymkhana horses there, but our times were respectable and I have no doubt we'll clean up when we mosey on out to the regular gymkhana in the Future Champions division.

We've got a bunch of shows coming up and some Competitive Trail Rides, too, plus I'm going to be doing some more judging.

That's all for now, until next time go hug your horses.

~SFTS

Retraining The Charro Horse

2010-08-06T12:30:00.000-07:00

This is a topic I did a great deal of thinking about before delving into it for so many reasons. In no way should any inference be taken that we're discussing cultural or heritage issues, this isn't about race, racism or anything of that nature ~ it is only about what it takes to retrain a horse that has been abused through a specific training and handling process that is outside the norm of commonly held theory on training horses within our society. Some facets of society condone this manner of training horses, though in my opinion none should.

While there are major differences of opinion on what constitutes good training, there is no doubt that some methods are indeed abusive. One form of abuse is what I'm addressing here. That said, let's begin.

Living where I do in Southerm California definitely has it's advantages, but there are also drawbacks. Particularly when it comes to buying horses for resale. Looking for bargains frequently means understanding that a horse will almost certainly have issues that will need to be corrected before offering the horse to the public as a reputable broker. A severely traumatized or abused horse simply can't be sold without going through an often lengthy process of gaining the horse's trust and ensuring there are no residual issues left from the initial abusive training.

When a horse is labeled a "charro" horse by knowledgeable horsemen, generally speaking that means the horse has been exposed to harsh living conditions (often small, dark, dirty stalls), long shanked bits with way too much mouthpiece (such as high ported spoon, cathedral or spade bits) used by inexperienced or harsh hands, ill fitting saddles and exposure to large spurs as well as whips that are misused (for punishment and torture as opposed to being a training aid). Add these things together and you've got a horse who has an incredible amount of baggage. Some are actually dangerous, though only insofar as they are frightened of human contact due to the abuse they have suffered in the hands of humans.

For a skilled trainer, these can even be difficult to overcome. Step one is to check teeth and float as needed, then to have a competent farrier evaluate and tend to the hooves. As many of these horses are also on the thin side (not necessarily emaciated, though some are, but most tend to be ribby and in need of groceries), getting the horse on a decent diet is paramount. These steps on top of plenty of TLC (petting, rubbing, scratches in the right places, treats/carrots etc, and a soft, soothing, gentle voice) will encourage a change in the horse's usually standoffish behavior.

With one of these horses, not unlike starting a young horse under saddle for the first time, the first few rides will be in the round pen or an equally small area to allow the horse freedom of movement but give me a greater chance to discourage bad behavior like bolting and running away, bucking or anything equally undesirable. I'll use a smooth snaffle bit of various configurations (French Link/dogbone, oval mouth, Dr Bristol or standard single jointed) depending on the horse's mouth, keeping in mind factors like a low palate, thick tongue or thick lips, and will include a cavesson noseband along with a running martingale as part of the wardrobe.

Fear is generally the biggest issue with a charro horse, because he's likely been horrified about tack and equipment ~ which includes those whips and spurs. He should be motivated by praise and taking little baby steps, just like the green three year old who's just started into training. Understanding that nothing bad is going to happen and that he's not going to be jabbed in the mouth, beaten or spurred relentlessly just for the sport of it only comes after some riding time. We'll work on gentle lateral flexing, stopping easy through seat and weight shifts, lots and lots and LOTS of calm, slow walking. Not until the horse has learned that he can relax and reach downward in a calm, easygoing manner will I even think about asking for a nice jog.

Eventually these horses are comfortable at the jog and even the lope. When you can lope around the arena easily and relaxed, you've got the beginnings of a well rounded and safe(r) horse. Safer than you started with, at least. Sadly, some of their fear issues do return when they are exposed to conditions similar to those they were saved from, or for instance they're ridden in a group of horses for the first few times and make the assumption that they might be scolded when a nearby horse does something naughty. When they have the urge to bolt (one of the most common reactions), if you're outside an enclosed arena a one-handed stop along with plenty of reassurance can nip recurrent issues in the bud.

There's a lot more to say on this subject, but I'm out of time for now. It's likely to be something we revisit in the future ~ especially considering how many charro horses are in need of being rescued and rehabbed right here where I am from. Sad, but true. Until next time........

~SFTS

Settling Into A Routine!

2010-07-25T22:56:00.000-07:00

We are finally moved and getting settled in. Well, we've technically been moved for about a month and a half, but have been swamped with getting new furniture, decorating and getting the horse facility set up. Between all that, working horses between both here and the barn, more training and lesson inquiries as well as getting ready to hit the show ring again soon, there has hardly been time to breathe!!

This week I hope to embark on another update of my website in the late evenings when I have time before falling asleep, and I plan to make time for regular blog posting like last year again. There are so many topics I want to cover, many of them are already started, I'm simply chomping at the bit.

ETI Corral 88 is having our next meeting right here in Pinon Hills, for details if you're local see our website at Corral88.org. Two outstanding veterinarians will be discussing hot weather issues with horses, and we will be presenting a mini-clinic on the [un]Extreme Cowboy Course at the ranch. We'd love to have anyone close enough drop on by! There is no cost, just come on down ~ everyone is welcome.

That's all until tomorrow...

~SFTS

RIP, Beautiful Lady

2010-07-24T09:07:00.000-07:00

Yesterday one of my favorite horses on planet Earth was laid to rest. Her devoted owners have spent untold thousands of dollars over the past five years doing everything in their power to avoid the inevitable, making sure she had the best possible life any horse could ask for. This wasn't the return to blogging I had hoped for, and the topic I was working on for today will have to wait.

Rest in peace, lovely girl...

Ravishing Ruby GA
(GA Suede X GA Estrella)
Chestnut Arabian Mare
1994 - 2010

~SFTS

What A Great Weekend!

2010-05-24T11:05:00.000-07:00

This past weekend several of us from ETI Corral 88 went to the poker ride hosted by local gymkhana club the Dusty Spurs in Phelan. We had a blast! Even though the weather was not so great, being breezy and a little bit cooler than ideal we just bundled up and enjoyed a nice ride.

My daughter had the 5th best hand out of probably close to 100 hands and won an Outback Steakhouse gift certificate!! Woohoo, we're going to dinner! :) I was on down the list somewhere and brought home a huge jar of Mrs Pastures horse cookies which all the horsey kids here love.

Yesterday the weather deteriorated and it was really cold, so cold that we actually had brief snow flurries here! Can you imagine, late May?! After stacking hay and tending to some basics like cleaning stalls (one of my favorite things, sarcastically speaking of course :P) and scrubbing/re-filling water barrels, it was time for some good old fashioned hot cocoa inside.

This coming weekend is our ETI Corral 88 tack sale in Phelan at White Shadow Ranch (Saturday May 29th) and the following weekend is the fundraiser trail ride in Llano at Bill & Susie Figley's ranch. Check out our website, there are flyers available with all the information you need to know!

That's all for now...busy, busy, busy!!

~SFTS

Milestones

2010-05-16T09:52:00.000-07:00

This isn't going to be at all horse related, just to let you all know. :)

My daughter turned 18 years old today ~ talk about a milestone!! And here I thought Sweet 16 was something to attain.

She aspires to become a fighter pilot in the US Air Force. This has been a dream of hers for a very long time now, and we are going full bore to make it happen for her. Not sure what a parent can do, other than teach the child right from wrong, good from bad and so on.

Other than that, she is an incredible artist and writer, does amazing website and coding work plus she's an exceptionally talented horsewoman.

Her dad and I could not be more proud of this beautiful young lady. Here's to hoping ALL of her dreams come true.

Happy Birthday sweetheart!! We love you more than anything in this world!!

~SFTS

Good News...And Other Things

2010-05-14T06:57:00.000-07:00

Yes, because of my schedule lately I have been lax again about the blog. There's another week or this and then I should have more time...maybe.

First up, we are moving!! The most wonderful thing happened, and we could not be more thrilled. Not moving far away, simply further into lovely Pinon Hills. Nothing could have made us happier! We have been given a golden opportunity of a lifetime.

Then, Ruby's eye treatment: Her ulcer is getting a whole lot smaller, it's a fraction of the size it was and she is really getting around well. With any luck, she will be fully recovered and bred to Magic Aulrab later this Summer.

Next, today several new horses come into training. Business just continues to increase and I'm feeling so blessed.

Also, yesterday the Andalusian/TB filly wore a saddle for the first time. She was a champ!! Then we led her through some of the elements on the Cowboy Course at the ranch and she dealt with it like she was an old hand. What a good girl!

Finally, we are thoroughly busy with ETI Corral 88, the Tri-Community Horsemen. The club continues to welcome new members which is awesome. Our used tack sale will be on Saturday, May 29th and our first trail ride will be on Sunday, June 6th. Flyers for the events are on the Corral 88 website at www.corral88.org.

Thanks to you all for hanging in there and sticking with reading the blog. We're maintaining our readership numbers even with a lack of posts. Hopefully once we get settled into our beautiful new home I can rest a bit and feel like I can stay awake long enough to give ya'll some great reading material.

Until then...

~SFTS

Just A Little Update...

2010-05-10T05:52:00.000-07:00

Hopefully everyone had a really terrific Mother's Day. I certainly did! Doing what I love ~ riding, training, hanging out with good friends and talking horses, then my wonderful husband made me an amazing steak dinner. What a perfect day!

Unfortunately, I missed a blog post for yesterday, and it could be spotty for the next week because of the treatment schedule for little Ravishing Ruby's eye. I'm just almost never around and have zero time in front of the computer. I didn't even have a chance to peek at the computer yesterday morning before heading out to the barn! By the time my day was done, I couldn't keep my eyes open long enough to type anything. And so it goes...

Ruby is doing better, the corneal ulcer is getting smaller. I have such a soft spot in my heart for this mare!! She's a trooper for getting poked and prodded, and having so much put into/onto her eye.

We've all been having fantastic rides, getting many of the horses more exposure to cattle and the cowboy course, the barn owner's TB gelding is also getting back to work after recovering from an injury and there is a gorgeous Andalusian/TB cross filly who's getting put to work and will be an incredible Dressage prospect.

Life is good!

~SFTS

Safety First, ALWAYS Safety First!

2010-05-08T21:56:00.000-07:00

As horse owners, riders, handlers and trainers, one of the most basic tenets of good horsemanship is safety. I preach to my students and clients how important it is to pay attention to what the horse is doing, to what is going on around you and your horse, and think ahead. I had a whole blog post I'd wanted to write on safety as it pertains and relates to horses and horsemanship but like every other night so far this week, I am just too exhausted to finish it. That I will get to later on.

Today my husband and his helper, a young man of just 27 years old, were at a jobsite working on installing some flooring. This was to have been just about a wrap on this particular job, when suddenly something went horribly wrong. Brandon, the helper, nearly lost several fingers on his right hand in a freak accident with the table saw. Tonight he is in the hospital where he will hopefully be able to have them reattached surgically.

Things can happen SO fast. Tragedy can occur in a blink of an eye. That goes for just about every aspect of our lives. Please say a prayer tonight for Brandon and keep in him your thoughts.

~SFTS

Extreme What?!

2010-05-07T23:52:00.000-07:00

Okay, so I've gotten essentially dragged into this "extreme cowboy" thing. You know what? It's fun. There are several different divisions and both indoor (arena) and outdoor (natural) courses. At the ranch we have the beginnings of an outdoor course and it's shaping up nice. Clinics are in the works and we've got a whole lot planned.

I checked out the association's website and some of the things you have to do in order to compete at the bigger events are pretty damned tough. Not to mention you're timed! Lesser horses are going to have a really hard time keeping it together mentally long enough to complete each obstacle in the quickest way.

Likely I'll either be adding to this post (probably the most likely scenario) or making another one on this subject matter. It's all very interesting and so far what I've begun to do is a blast. Then there's the matter of the Arabian show mare who will likely make her debut soon on the barrel racing, pole bending and other patterns at some of the local gymkhanas. Yes, you read that right. More on that later. ;) Have a great night!!

~SFTS

Happy, Happy Birthday Baby!!

2010-05-06T12:22:00.000-07:00

Today my most beloved Brute Force (Sabio+ by *AN Malik x Southern Chablis by Tarbush [by El Gato]) turned 25 ~ he made it to the quarter century mark. This is his story.

Brutus as he is affectionately known was foaled on May 6, 1985 and the only baby, out of six foals she had for us, I ever got to see his mama actually give birth to. She was a sneaky one! Turn your back and out pops baby. When the little bugger was little, he was a horrid bully to his mama. I was looking for something to call him that sounded fitting for an English horse and one that had an overbearing personality. At first I was thinking of the bully in the Popeye cartoon, but did not want to call my horse "Bluto", so "Brutus" it was. :) Here's a bit of hilarious trivia that I never realized...the Bluto character originally was called Brutus. Wow!!

He made his show ring debut at the tender age of 2 1/2 months, when the Sierra Empire Arabian Horse Association was holding current year foal classes. Of course he had not yet been weaned, so we had to bring mama along...it wasn't pretty. All was fine when we took them on walks the few days we were there before his class, but that morning we had to make a choice whether or not to leave the mare back at our stalls, or bring her to the arena while he was being shown. We opted for leaving her back at the barn, and she screamed bloody murder the whole time. My lovely Brutus and I made a grand entrance at the trot, and all of a sudden he launched into mid-air, leaping like a wild horse before SPLAT landing flat on his side in a muddy arena. Needless to say, though it was a memorable first outing, it wasn't memorable in a good way!

Twice more he was shown at Halter as a youngster, one time as a yearling and again as a two year old colt. During his yearling year we took him to the 1986 Region One Championships as he was an International Arabian Horse Association (IAHA, now AHA) Breeder Sweepstakes Breeding Entry to show him in one of the first Yearling Sweepstakes classes. There were 19 horses in the class, and I was but a young teenage pup back then. I knew his best chance to go Regional Champion or Reserve was to have a big name trainer on the end of the lead, so I reluctantly went in search of someone who wanted to catch-handle him for me. There were more than a half-dozen trainers chomping at the bit, so to speak, to get the chance to show this horse, but all of them wanted me to put front shoes on him. In those days it was still legal to show Arabian babies in shoes. That was something I was going to stick to my guns on and I decided ultimately to bite the bullet and exhibit him myself barefoot. He was named Regional Top Ten with me at the lead, and I have little doubt he would have placed higher had I compromised my beliefs for a ribbon. He was considered one of the favorites! At that show I turned down an offer of $50,000 for him...it's a decision I have never once regretted.

His last show before going under saddle was the Whittier Host Lions Club show in 1987 where I showed him in the two year old colt class. There were nearly 50 entries, and he was pulled into the Top Ten though did not ribbon (they only placed to 6th with a ribbon). Not too shabby! Being a May baby, it was hard to compete anyhow against the January foals who were all far bigger than he, not to mention his mama didn't quite make 14 hands.

My dream for Bru was to have him excel in the ring as a superstar in the "new" Country English Pleasure division, though it was a long haul to get him there. He was started under saddle at 3, after having spent most of his 2nd year in longlines. Being the character that he was, Brutus proved to be a tough cookie to break, but once he decided having his person on his back wasn't a big deal he began to enjoy our rides. Very shortly after I began getting on him, we headed out on the trail. Aside from water crossings and cows, nothing generally phased him. He's a champ these days about water (and he still actively goes down the trail 4-5 times a week), but isn't so sure cattle aren't evil. ;)

In addition to my dreams for my little horse on the show circuit, I fancied keeping him a stallion. One major barrier to that, however, was our band of mares since my family had begun to liquidate bloodstock by that time. We still had his dam and two half sisters ~ with little desire and the lack of major funding to go out and purchase top quality unrelated mares which would cross well and compliment him. Therefore, he was gelded in 1989 at the age of four.

In the meanwhile, I got married in 1991 and had my beloved daughter in 1992. I always knew in my heart that someday Brutus would become my little girl's horse.

It wasn't until he was ten years old that I had an opportunity to debut him under saddle in the show ring. Because I wanted to get a feel for how he would behave and likewise stack up against the competition, we took him to an All Arabian show, but one that was smaller and unrated. Laid back, inexpensive, easy show but that had some nice horses. One of those who was in the same classes as my boy was a Half-Arabian/National Show Horse gelding who later collected a number of National Championships as an English Pleasure and Equitation horse, Holy Spirit+. Brutus had three classes and brought home two blue ribbons and a Championship on May 14, 1995. What an awesome Mothers Day gift!!

For the next several years, he was shown in Country Pleasure, winning more than his fair share of the blues and tri-colors. In 1997 we added English Show Hack to his repertoire, and he won a huge Show Hack class, besting the competition (including a number of Scottsdale and National Champions) at the 1997 Region One Championships. Two days after coming home from Regionals that year I found myself in desperate need of a Hunter Pleasure horse for one of my students. The gelding she had been taking lessons on and interested in was sold to another, and we had a show the following weekend. So, after one day off we embarked on schooling a couple of days as a Hunt seat horse, threw in a few lessons and off we went. There were blue ribbons for an incredibly happy little girl that day, too. A few weeks later at our next rated Arabian show, I put him in the Hunter Pleasure Maiden class, where he ribboned third out of 30+ horses, in addition to his Country and Show Hack commitments. He then was also named 4th in the Hunter Pleasure Championship. My little Country horse! I was so proud of him.

By the Summer of '98 I made a monumental decision to try him Western, just for fun. Because of all the Show Hack training, he was amazing at collected gaits, and it was a breeze to shift him over to a Western curb from the double bridle. In the Fall of that year, he was bringing home massive armfuls of blue ribbons on the local show level in Hunt seat and Western classes competing against the Quarter Horses and Paints. 1999 brought him back to being a Country and Show Hack mount on the Arabian circuit, all the way to Scottsdale.

After that, for a few years he did more trail riding than anything else, and after a few local shows doing the Hunter/Western thing in 2003 my lovely Brutus made a return to the ring in Show Hack during 2004. He was officially retired from being an English horse as of 2005, when he began to carry my daughter Lisa. He was winning classes left and right, and brought home three blue ribbons and the Reserve Championship in Purebred Open Western Pleasure at the Las Vegas Arabian Horse Association show that November. 2006 saw Lisa and Brutus become a beautiful, successful pair in Hunter Pleasure and they won numerous all around High Point awards together. At the 2006 Rancho California Arabian Horse Association Fall show, Brutus was named Reserve Champion Purebred Western Pleasure JTR 17 & Under with Lisa, and Champion Purebred Western Pleasure Open with me in the saddle.

This horse has won in Halter, Showmanship, Country English Pleasure, English Show Hack, Hunter Pleasure, Trail, Hunter Hack, Hunter Over Fences, Hunter Seat Equitation, Western Horsemanship and more. He has competed in Parades all over Southern California and is far and away the best trail horse I have ever ridden.

Brute Force, you are one in a million. No horse could ever compare, or replace you. I love you with all my heart!

~SFTS

Sorry!

2010-05-05T07:28:00.001-07:00

Something is going on with my blog, the last entry did not show up in its entirety and there is no comment form. I've inquired to Blogger, we'll see what they say and hopefully have this resolved soon.

Edited to add, now it appears that everything is doing what it's supposed to do and behaving the way it's supposed to behave. Yay! Thanks to the Blogger help forum folks.

~SFTS

All The News That's Fit To Print

2010-05-04T23:22:00.000-07:00

Today was a bit of a mixed bag. I had a topic rip roarin' and ready to go, wanted to get it written early to post it this evening and then I get the phone call. One of my longtime clients has a mare with an injured eye. Prognosis is not good, we're bringing her over to the barn so I can treat her 6-10 times a day and we'll re-evaluate at the end of ten days. Keep your fingers crossed and say a prayer for Ruby, would you?

News regarding the local ETI Corral 88 club has been exciting, we have planned a couple of events and after our Board meeting yesterday we finalized details. Our used tack sale is going to be the Saturday of Memorial Day weekend, May 29 at White Shadow Ranch in Phelan. Then we're holding a trail ride at the Figley ranch on Sunday June 6 over in Llano. Details should be on our website soon, and fliers will be available. If you're local, come on down and join us.

Plans are in the works for the formation of a professional horsemen's association here in our local area affiliated with the California Professional Horsemen's Association. Very exciting for those of us who are working hard to set ourselves apart and operate to the highest standards of the industry.

That's all for tonight ~ please keep Ruby in your good thoughts.

~SFTS

Barn Raising

2010-05-03T23:09:00.000-07:00

What is it you look for in a barn? For me, there are a number of "must have's" that I cannot live without.

Roomy, light stalls with plenty of ventilation is first on my list. 12' x 12' is standard size for a box stall, though I like 16' x 16' or 12' x 24' for foaling stalls.

I want the grilled stall fronts (all across the front) similar to these:

(Photo credit MD Barns)

(Photo credit Barnmaster Barns)

My preference is also to have grilled stall dividers between each stall. As a rule, however, there may be a reason so have some stalls with solid walls, so a mixture is ideal. Then there are sliding back stall doors which open out into paddocks, with grilled windows that can be "closed". Having a well lit barn is another must, I love the "skylight" panels many barn companies offer these days, and I insist on good lighting for both the stalls and the barn aisles.

Safety is of paramount concern, so the barn needs to be well constructed with no shortcuts taken. Recently I attended a Dressage show at a lovely brand new facility and was appalled to notice they had a beautiful 20 stall barn which was virtually unusable because when the foundation footings were poured, the contractor blew it on the measurements and toward the far end of the barn, the footings were well over a foot off from where the walls were erected. WTF? I can't imagine how or why anyone would have allowed the barn to continue to be put up once they began to notice something was wrong! But I digress.

Stall doors, feed doors and the walls themselves are also of great importance. I prefer sliding doors with a grilled top, and I'm partial (for some horses) to the open yoke doors (pictured below):

I also like these grilled dutch doors, because you can close a horse in and he an still see out the door, but if you want the option of allowing your horses to hang their heads over the door (and don't have blanket bars on your doors):

I have spent countless hours designing and planning the perfect barn. What about you?

~SFTS

Widgets, Gadgets and Gizmos

2010-05-02T23:53:00.000-07:00

So here we are...we're supposed to be talking horses, right? Therefore, I present a real horse related topic! :)

This one I've put a lot of thought into and there's been all manner of discussion across the internet about various training aids, tools or what some would call gimmicks. Alright, here's my take. In the right hands, many of these things are indeed tools that help horsemen achieve their goals with their horses, but most can be improperly used and overused. Shortcuts are never okay. Choosing to use certain training tools while working toward an admirable goal is just fine in my book. But, there are some I simply don't have any use for.

Let's start with the basic running martingale ~ there are actually several variations, though I like to keep it simple. This is what I personally use:

Easy to adjust for each horse, no worries when properly adjusted of the horse coming into contact with it unless he's misbehaving.

Variations include the ten ring martingale (pictured below):

My problem with this one is fairly simple. A martingale should not be used as a leverage device and should only come into play if the horse attempts to throw his head in your face or otherwise try to get out of staying where he needs to be. With this one, there is too much of an ability to actually pull the horse's face down. Likewise with the training fork (pictured below):

I really dislike the training forks, even moreso than the "pleasure martingales", because of how easy they are to over-adjust. Pleasure martingale here:

Now, I've found these are almost always too long anyhow, unless your horse has the neck of a giraffe, and inevitably the rider has them tied in a knot. With my martingale of choice, no worries about that.

Let's move on to the standing martingale, which is not dissimilar to the tie down. Tie downs are used in working Western and Western games (roping, gymkhana, barrel racing) events and standing martingales are used in English circles for over-exuberant jumpers. What really is the difference, the English version attaches to the cavesson and because Western horses generally are ridden without a cavesson, tie downs come with a hanger and noseband in addition to the strap itself.

Standing martingale:

Tie down:

I've got a standing attachment for one breastplate I have and it's been used on one horse because I didn't want him to smash my face in. Never had any use for a tie down and here's why...that restriction of the horse and a desire not to impede his natural carriage and movement. Okay, ask any skilled roper and he'll tell you there is a need for a tie down in order to help the horse balance himself. I don't rope or game, thus reinforcing my not needing one.

Next up is the German martingale. There are really very few cases where I'll use one, such as the horse needing a little bit more help than a running martingale will give him, but not in need of draw reins (which I'll get to in a moment). Pictured here:

They work similarly to a cross between the two and work well for the horse who's learned to evade the bit while in draw reins.

Speaking of draw reins, they are basically a leverage device though I always use them in conjunction with a direct rein (as pictured in the first photo, below). There are as many configurations for draw reins as there are manufacturers, and they are used in both English and Western styles of riding.

I'm running out of steam ~ there is so much more I would have loved to cover and a whole lot more I wanted to say. Not being able to stay awake to write is becoming a severe hardship, however, so I'm going to wrap this one up. We will revisit the topic, get more in depth and explore things like chambons, sidechecks, overchecks and side reins later on.

Thanks for hanging in there!

~SFTS

Major League Fail!

2010-05-01T22:34:00.000-07:00

I admit it. Getting back into blogging has been just about impossible. There are so many ideas roaming through my head, but by the time my day is nearing its end I'm so exhausted that putting the words swirling up there into blog form just gets impossible. I feel like I'm letting you all down by not making this a priority. I've definitely failed in my mission to make blog posts regularly!

There is so much going on that at times I feel like there's barely time to breathe!! A lot of news will be forthcoming soon on a variety of fronts. In the meantime, please check out the Tri-Community Horsemen ETI Corral 88 Facebook page and group at these two respective links:

ETI Corral 88 Facebook Page

ETI Corral 88 Facebook Group

*(I'm not sure you can view either without "becoming a fan" or a member or whatever it is that you do on Facebook with these things, it's still pretty Greek to me)*

Until next time........

~SFTS

Fun, Fun and More Fun!

2010-04-25T07:43:00.000-07:00

I know, I know, I blew it in my attempt to start making blog posts regularly again. There just aren't enough hours in the day!

Yesterday our ETI Corral 88 group took about a dozen or so horses to the Mustang Spirit Horse Rescue 3rd Annual Playday, plus we had a booth there to let folks know who we are, what we're all about and how to become a member of our fabulous group. We had so much fun! Thanks go out to all the folks who helped man the booth talking to everyone and a very special thanks to Tania and all connected with Mustang Spirit. What a wonderful day!!

Between the four horses we brought, the tally was six first places, five second places and two third places in nine classes. My daughter competed on a beautiful relatively green buckskin Quarter Horse gelding and won a couple of second place ribbons (Gelding Halter and Walk/Jog Western Pleasure), and I took home the blue ribbon on the same horse in both the In Hand Trail and the Advanced Trail classes. These were timed events with a plethora of obstacles, some of which our horses had never seen before.

A couple of weeks ago I had also been asked to judge the Western and English Pleasure classes, which was a very tough call. I was extremely impressed at all of the horses, though the divisions were small. Many were rescue horses, and they all represented the quality available in rescue.

All in all we had a great time and the success was just icing on the cake. :)

~SFTS

We're Back

2010-04-18T07:46:00.000-07:00

I think. :)

It's still been so hectic around here I am just not sure how I'm going to have time to continually update the blog, but I'm sure going to try this time!

We're busy getting getting horses ready to show, getting new horses in training and I am going to be judging a show next weekend. In other news, ETI Corral 88 (our local horsemen's club) is busy planning a tack sale fundraiser, a breakfast trail ride fundraiser and a series of Summer playdays.

Upcoming topics for the blog include training gimmicks and having an understanding of them; tips for barn building; choosing leg protection for your horse; trail building and maintenance; revisiting ground manners ~ specifically as they relates to wash rack training, hotwalker training and standing for clippers; putting together a horse show checklist and delving again (for the first time since the beginning of the blog) into Arabian bloodlines.

Check it out beginning tomorrow! Until then, have awesome rides and go get 'em in the show ring!!

~SFTS

Dropping By...

2010-03-31T10:23:00.000-07:00

Thank you so much to all who emailed and expressed sorrow for this blog being on hiatus as well as the well wishes in regard to the attack suffered by the horses of Sunlit Farm in January. We greatly appreciate all the kind words and support.

Things are so hectic around here (and have been for a long time now) I just have had zero time to even think about the blog. Hopefully beginning tomorrow I will be able to find a little time to begin putting up all the topics I have in the vault for this blog!

A bit of news to catch you all up:

*Noble Lord JP was named Champion Stallion and Supreme Halter Champion at the 2010 Sierra Empire Arabian Horse Association Show in late January, then named Top Ten in both AOTH Stallions 5 years and older as well as Open Stallions 8 years and older at the 2010 Scottsdale All Arabian Horse Show in February. A very hearty congratulations are due to owner McShane Arabians!!

Our local ETI Corral, Corral 88 the Tri-Community Horsemen, has a new website at www.Corral88.org and we've got a lot of really great events and fundraisers planned. If you're in the area please plan on stopping by and getting involved, we would love to have you.

More later!

~SFTS

Arabian Horses Attacked in Pinon Hills, California

2010-01-23T07:36:00.000-08:00

Some time during the night of January 21st someone scaled our five foot fence and went after at least two of my horses with scissors or a similar cutting instrument. Our property is completely fenced and secured with a locked gate at all times. This happened between the hours of 7:30 pm 1/21 and 7:30 am 1/22 during a Winter storm.

My 25 year old grey gelding had his tail hacked off at the tailbone, a beautiful tail that dragged on the ground taking years to grow, and his mane was chopped off to a couple of inches when it was originally 8-10 inches long.

These vandals also tried to hack off my 12 year old black gelding's tail, which was done up in a tail wrap and now just hangs by a few strands of hair. They also chopped off the black horse's forelock and tried to get his mane. There are two places missing in the mane, but he apparently broke away from them and could not be caught again.

Fortunately, they could not catch my bay mare or my bay gelding to mutilate them.

All of the hair hacked off these horses was left behind strewn on the ground, except the grey horse's tail. That was taken as a "souvenir".

Both horses are Regionally titled and National Championship quality show horses who are now rendered unable to be presented in the show ring until their appearance can be restored through months of hair growth. This is resulting in a tremendous monetary loss in addition to the obvious loss of security in our own home and coming with that an intense feeling of helplessness in keeping our horses safe and secure.

As a result of this crime, the Sheriff's Department was called, a report was taken and an investigation has begun. All leads will be aggressively pursued.

We believe this to have been a deliberate act of violence and not a random act of mischief. Nothing was stolen or missing, nothing else was disturbed.

Photographs will be posted as soon as we are able.

Keep your horses safe.

~SFTS

Just Checking In!!

2010-01-22T00:43:00.000-08:00

Thought I would drop in and post a quick hello ~ things are hectic around here, not to mention swamped (literally!) as we get ready for the show season to begin. We are all really excited about 2010 and the promise this year holds.

Thank you to all who have been so supportive, there are so many of you and I am so thankful. What a wonderful thing to know my words have a profound effect on such a broad spectrum and the numbers who read here daily...well, when there is a daily post. :)

I promise to be back every day with a new post, or as close as I can manage during our always busy show season, soon. There is just so much preparation, not to mention so much clipping, to do it takes up an incredible amount of my time. Inclement weather? No problem! Clean show tack and show clothes! The list goes on...

Have a great weekend!! :) :)

~SFTS

On To Bigger And Better Things...

2010-01-10T09:10:00.000-08:00

...well, for now at least. And I had been doing SO well!

As you may or may not have noticed, I missed putting up a blog post for yesterday. And a couple of days before that, I only put up a quickie post to keep up with having a post for every day. Now, I do have a ton of post topics I want to cover and many are already written, just waiting there to bring to you all.

However, things are just getting so hectic around here with the impending start of the show season coupled with all of my club and committee commitments that I just do not have the time right now to devote to making sure I get this blog updated every day. So, I have decided to go on a little bit of a hiatus, without having to be concerned about the blog and therefore making things easier on myself.

Make no mistake and mark my words, I will be back. :) I just need to concentrate on making sure we have horses and riders/handlers ready to set foot in the show ring by the end of this month along with everything else on my plate with the local Equestrian Subcommittee on Parks, the ETI Corral and the Arabian Horse Association affiliate club along with the other two organizations I am involved with.

Until then, may your lives prosper and may all your rides be National Championship quality!!

~SFTS

Planning Your Dream Ranch

2010-01-08T23:05:00.000-08:00

We all pretty much have in our minds the horse facility of our dreams. When we imagine our ideal ranch, we know what we want, we know what it looks like. But how best to develop your imagined fairy tale farm?

Okay, let's assume you already have the deed to that property (after meticulously ensuring that you've bought a piece of land well suited for your purposes). Your search complete, papers signed, a loan secured and now you are ready to begin building. You thought the acquisition was the hard part!

For me, safety and convenience are of paramount importance and I take into consideration how best to utilize the entire property, too. If there is an existing home or other structure(s), the challenges increase. Deciding where your barn, arena, turnout paddocks and other amenities should be all relate back to those two factors mentioned above.

First, safety. I want decent latches on stall doors, I prefer v-mesh or welded wire panels on my pipe paddocks for mares with foals, I do not like chain link fencing used as an enclosure for horses and the footing must be decent (excavation may be necessary before bringing in soil or sand for your arena). Another thing to think about is drainage... including for your wash rack.

When it rains it sometimes pours and you want to be prepared for potential flooding. This means taking a good look at how your property sits and determining the route water takes across the landscape. I've seen barn aisles with tiny rivers running through them and pipe corrals with several inches of standing water during and after a rain storm where it was necessary to wade out in rubber boots to dig trenches so the puddles can be drained. Not fun, especially during the storm itself.

Another point to keep in mind will be convenience. For instance, the proximity of your arena to where your horses reside, and more important how close your feed room is to your horses.

Also, my preference is sliding stall doors as opposed to those of the Dutch variety, which can present a hazard when they're left standing open into the barn aisle (so that one can be classified under safety and convenience both). Having at least one set of cross ties, preferably two, is another major convenient point and should be in lose proximity of the tack room.

There are literally millions of ways in which to build your dream ranch. Taking the time to lay out what you want, where you want it in the beginning saved an awful lot of headaches later.

Once you get that far, congratulations!

~SFTS

Tonight, Tonight, Tonight

2010-01-07T22:44:00.000-08:00

No, I am not channeling Phil Collins or Genesis, it simply sounded catchy. :) Long day today and I have been working on several new topics but have not had the chance to get around to finishing them. So, in the spirit of still trying to get a post up every day ~ silly, I know ~ here you go. A post!! For today!! ;)

Upcoming in the works are discussions on planning your "dream facility"; tips on barn building/design and tack room sheds; more on equipment and it's usage; additional tips on both horse shows and breeding...plus much more. As always, feel free to email me at SunlitLady@aol.com your questions and comments you don't want posted on the blog itself.

Until tomorrow...

~SFTS

The Geriatric Ward: What To Do With Your Old Timers And Thinking About End Of Life Options

2010-01-06T22:55:00.000-08:00

This is a topic we all have to face sooner or later when we have horses and it's twofold: What to do with those who need to be retired for whatever reason, and when to make the horribly painful decision to lay our beloved equine companions to rest.

All horses age, and most of us find ourselves faced with the reality sooner or later that we've got to make a determination when to retire our faithful mounts. With some, it's fairly obvious as health or soundness issues begin to plague them. When lamenesses become chronic you know you have been delinquent in giving that hard working steed a much deserved rest.

This is something I fear I will be facing within the next few years, though my own aged gelding is still sound, healthy and looks far younger than his birthyear suggests. A few years back I even sought out the folks at Guardian Aftercare (pet cremation service) during Equine Affair and spoke with the local animal cemetery about costs and logistics as well.

My fondest wish is to be able to retire my favorite old man to a beautiful, lush pasture when he chooses his time someday. Looking out my front window to see that lovely, spry old grey horse does, however, lend me hope that such a time is a long ways off. With a good diet and the very best of care, he looks like a horse far younger. On his 20th birthday we showed him at a local open competition and, upon placing him first in the Hunter Hack class, I told our judge it was a fitting tribute for that milestone. Her jaw dropped! I know for sure it is not a decision I will take lightly or enjoy making.

What are your equine retirement options? Ideally, most would choose the perfect pasture solution, without a doubt. But those choices can be limited both by where you live or your budget. If you are located (or know someone who lives) in a well irrigated region with the optimum climate for seeding and growing pasture land, you have it made - as long as you can afford the water bill. When you reside in an arid desert with little rainfall, such costs are astronomical. That leaves the stalling or dry lot option, which certainly can be suitable, if not optimum. As long as your horse is happy and remains healthy, with enough exercise, excellent feed and all other needs met, there is nothing wrong with such an arrangement.

Now that brings us to when we need to say goodbye. Doubtless there are instances where the time is near and others where the quality of life deteriorates suddenly, leaving us shell shocked. Far too often I have had to either make that decision myself or counsel a client on what is best for our four legged friends, but it never gets any easier... and over the course of nearly forty years I have only personally had to be in those shoes four times for horses of my own, and it was still too frequently.

Probably the best thing we can do is be prepared. However, no matter how much preparation we do, nothing will make some things easier.

Go hug your horses today. They deserve it.

~SFTS

People Who Cry "Auction" Or "Kill" When Trying To Dump Horses

2010-01-05T23:33:00.000-08:00

This is a MAJOR pet peeve of mine. Play on my emotions just because I love horses and you're going to get two things you surely do not want ~ an earful from me, and quite the verbal (or virtual) beating from a mob of angry equine enthusiasts.

We all know how bad the economy is (I've written about this before) and it's predicted to only get worse. I have been personally offered several dozen free horses, but have only brought home one because I know my limits, even though there have been some really tempting offers recently that I'm still on the fence about.

All of the above, along with the fact that the vast majority of rescues are full up and lacking in donor resources, still in my mind does not give people the right to perpetrate this nefarious ploy upon the public.

I have to wonder, what is it people think when they acquire a horse. They're large. They take up a lot of space. They eat a lot. Didn't it occur to you that upkeep would be expensive?? I mean seriously. Yet every day I am deluged with emails, messages and folks I encounter out and about during my day that seemingly had no idea of the commitment a horse was when they bought it. Hello?! they don't follow you home like a stray dog! You had to see to it someone with a truck and trailer brought the horse to you.

Let me recount a tale from several years ago. One morning, a young gentleman showed up and asked if he could bring a couple of two year old Thoroughbreds over for me to do an evaluation of and give him an honest idea of the cost he'd be looking at to have them trained under saddle. I said sure, knock yourself out. He struck me as a relative novice even though he professed to have grown up on a horse ranch out West here somewhere.

By the next afternoon I hadn't heard from him and assumed he had held off for whatever reason, perhaps the fact these horses were just babies. But later on, while I was out in the arena giving a riding lesson on that cold, blustery early December day up drove a neighbor in his Jeep mentioning that a dark colored horse, still tacked up, frantic and covered in sweat had shown up to his back fence calling to his gelding. He wondered if we might know the horse or who it belonged to. None of us recognized the horse.

This could only mean one thing: Someone had been out riding, and somehow the horse had gotten away, meaning it was very likely there could be an injured rider out alone on the trail somewhere. We sprang into action after my lesson wrapped up, with one party calling animal control about the mysterious horse, another contacting area hospitals and several of us either on foot, on horseback ourselves or in a vehicle heading out to trace back the horse's hoofprints. Those of us out on the search came up empty, thought we learned that it had been a husband and wife out for a trail ride on two young, very green horses. The wife's horse spooked and she came off, becoming injured. When he dismounted to assist his wife who had hit her head and was critically injured, the husband's horse also spooked and took off in a different direction (which explained why only one horse showed up at our neighbor's house and how come animal control located the second horse several miles away).

It turns out the wife was airlifted to Loma Linda University Medical Center's trauma unit ~ as a very sad aside, we later learned that night the helicopter, Mercy Air 2, crashed on the return flight killing the entire crew on a foggy hillside in the Cajon Pass near Interstate 15.

Fast forward about two and a half weeks later. That same young gentleman who had been interested in training for his Thoroughbreds stopped by again, only this time to drop off a flyer declaring ten or so mostly young, green horses for sale. It had been his wife injured in that above-mentioned accident. Upon recovering, she demanded every horse be sold and they desired to move across country. Now, I cannot blame her for being terrified of getting on a (young, green) horse again after her ordeal, however it was indeed largely their own fault such an accident happened and it seemed to me those horses were likely to suffer in her haste to be rid of them.

Two days after being presented with that sale flyer, I was on my way back from town early in the morning on a donut and coffee run when I noticed a young bay Thoroughbred gelding pacing a neighbor's fence line ~ a neighbor who no longer owned horses. Most notable about the poor horse was a horrific injury to his upper right foreleg, literally torn to the bone with bleeding flesh hanging from his chest nearly to his knee. I raced back to the ranch, told everyone about him and requested assistance in trying to find the owner. I grabbed a halter and my daughter and I quickly headed back over to the horse.

He was frantically pacing and I could not get near him for some time, when another neighbor woman stopped by to find out what was going on. It took some time, but my daughter and I were finally able to catch and halter him to get a better look at his gruesome injury. It turned out that the property owners where the horse was at were away on vacation (just after Christmas, after all) and the horse's owner was still MIA. Someone along the way called animal control about an injured, loose or "stray" horse. What a sweet, sweet boy he was.

Finally after another hour or so, a black Dodge truck drove up amidst the fuss and the young man who owned the horse came forward. You guessed it, same guy.

According to him, there had been a ruckus before dawn with the horses, and they heard a giant crash. He claimed to have gone outside to check and declared everything fine, going back to bed. It wasn't until going back out to feed several hours later in daylight that he noticed the damaged fence and a missing horse.

He didn't have the money for a vet call, so he offered to sign the horse over to me...to this day, I still have that document that "John" hastily wrote up and placed his signature on. However, there were several monkey wrenches in the plan to move the horse and notify my vet ~ first, the neighbor woman who was taking care of the property where the horse was did not want anyone to do anything or even treat the horse in any way until animal control arrived to asses the situation; and second, an animal control officer (with zero equine experience) arrived in the meanwhile, but she had called her supervisor to come take a look, who was nearly two hours away in another part of this vast County. I had contacted a friend who runs a local rescue to come help, I had brought my truck and trailer over and we were prepared to load and transport the horse to the equine hospital. We were barred by AC from administering any medication to alleviate the horse's pain until the supervisor got there, so that poor animal had to endure what must have been terrible pain for hours.

At nearly noon, the AC supervisor finally showed up and just as her subordinate had earlier, she advised me not to take the horse, that it should simply be euthanized and that it was the responsibility of the horse's legal owner to handle and pay for. Because he insisted he had no funds to do so being post Christmas, and they went round and round as my daughter and I tried to soothe the horse as best we could.

That was one of the most frustrating, awful days of my life. In the end, an acquaintance of the owner was called in to shoot this beautiful young gelding, ultimately putting him out of his misery at long last. I still shed tears on occasion when I think of the gallant young bay horse with no name whom my daughter christened Bold Star, who braved hours and hours of dreadful pain because of the stupidity of humans, made worse because those humans spent much of their time bickering as opposed to doing something to actually help the horse.

Later that same day, a local horsetrader showed up to load and haul the rest of the irresponsible couple's horses away, bound for the same low-end auction they came from in the first place with little chance to go to real homes. Nearly all of them went to places we'd rather not imagine. Ignorance, arrogance and the ineptitude of these people caused their horses immeasurable agony.

I hate people sometimes, I really do. RIP, beautiful Bold Star.

End rant.

~SFTS

How Else To Play The Horse Show Game ~ Alternatives To AHA

2010-01-04T17:59:00.000-08:00

Make no mistake, today I am indeed editorializing. My blog, my thoughts. :) As such, I will once again be predominantly addressing the Arabian show ring and today it's about alternatives to competing at AHA approved venues, since that is my main breed of interest. Don't get me wrong, I love my breed and have had success in that show ring for more than three decades now, and you can be sure we will continue to patronize AHA events ~ but there are other ways to enjoy these horses.

For background on this topic, look to a general unhappiness many exhibitors feel with AHA in general; from judging, to rules, to the excessive cost of competing, to the COI (conflict of interest) which often seems to be inherent and even expected. All of these issues have led to a mass exodus from our show ring, though an awful lot of folks are still interested in showing their horses. They simply would like to do so in a place where they feel fair play and a level playing field are a reality.

Of course, you can always stick with your local equestrian organizations and show in their open events, which generally welcome all breeds but are frequently not considered "Arabian friendly". There is no reason on Earth you cannot be competitive ~ we have done so for many years, converting dozens of exhibitors and spectators alike to the Arabian horse. Being such an ambassador does carry with it a heavy responsibility, however. I have always believed that bringing beautiful, well conditioned, well trained, well schooled, well prepared and well presented horses to a show can make a lasting positive impression on the non-Arabian admiring public.

I start all my beginner students, my green and inexperienced horses as well as new horse/rider pairs at the open or schooling show level. Here is my thinking ~ horse shows cost a lot of money. Most horse owners are not made of money. When there is a question of how a horse may behave in a show environment with other horses in the ring, or if a rider is just not ready for the big leagues, I cannot in good conscience request that anyone pay huge, cubic dollars to attend a large rated horse show. While there are never any guarantees on how well any horse or rider is going to do against any given competition, why take chances? With someone else's money, I most certainly will not.

For those not necessarily jaded with AHA itself, you can also go the Arabian Community Show route. These shows were designed to be a low-key, fun and relaxed way to show Arabian horses against each other with out the cost or cutthroat competition of an "A" rated show. We have been participating on this level since 2006, in addition to the open shows, and we have thoroughly enjoyed our venture into that venue. They allow exhibitors to compete against horses which are often of a quality similar to those you will be up against on the tougher "A" circuit, without breaking the bank.

But what if you're used to competing at a higher level and consider everything else beneath you? In that case, there are other alternatives you may find suitable. For Dressage riders, there are open events sanctioned by the USDF (United States Dressage Federation) which are held across the country in most every state and region. The same goes for Hunters, Jumpers, Eventing, Reining, Cutting and Carriage Driving, where breed makes little or no difference. If Western pleasure is your pleasure, there are open events catering to that division, and if Saddleseat classes are more your up of tea, you can look into both the Renai Horse Registry (started for the purposes of promoting the Arabian/Dutch Harness Horse crosses as flat saddle horses ~ like the National Show Horse Registry was created for promoting Arabian/Saddlebred crosses as English horses ~ but which hold classes for Arabian horses, among other breeds) and the Show Horse Alliance, begun by the NSH Registry for horses other than those with Arabian and Saddlebred blood.

Here is the bottom line: These alternatives are out there if you seek them out and they're generally quite fun. You'll meet different people who will give you a fresh perspective. All in good fun, and in the spirit of good sportsmanship (and good horsemanship)!

~SFTS

Halterbreaking and Weaning

2010-01-03T09:47:00.000-08:00

As foaling season approaches, a commonly heard inquiry among horse owners, especially those expecting their first new foal, is, “When should I get that baby used to a halter?” My own personal answer has always been, “Immediately!”

Long before the term “imprint training” became household words and such words were ever widely used to describe the process, there were those of us who simply believed that the sooner you get your colts and fillies accustomed to being handled all over and wearing that halter, the easier it would be to progress later on with their schooling and, eventually, their under saddle training.

Getting the newborn foal used to a halter as soon as possible is just plain good common sense, and it’s simply the most stress-free way to begin a lifetime of education. You must make sure the halter fits properly ~ these days most feed stores even carry tiny halters, some of which are designed for miniature horses, but they’ll fit babies just fine. Get one that’s just a little bit too big, to make sure there’s growing room, but you don’t want the baby to be able to slip out of it. They learn fast, and that’s a sure fire way to teach your foal how to get away from you. Definitely not something you want him to learn!

I have always been a firm believer in handling foals a lot from day one. They grow in a hurry and within a couple of weeks, you may not be able to hold on to him. Learning to accept human hands is a fact of life, and the sooner he learns to live with it, the better. Many times I have had to deal with weanlings (some of who were approaching a full year of age!) who have never been touched ~ or merely had as much handling as was required for basic veterinary needs. An awful lot of them hadn’t ever been wormed, hadn’t had any shots and had never even had their feet trimmed.

The process of “halter breaking” takes on a whole new meaning if you allow a foal to grow too much before you handle him. It can take weeks, sometimes months, to get close enough to even touch a foal who’s been allowed to “grow up naturally”. I don’t recommend it. At that rate, he might weigh 500 pounds by the time you can actually get that halter on him. I’ve had to build specially designed catch pens and even catch chutes in which to feed youngsters who didn’t know what the touch of a human felt like. Once they were safely in the pen or chute, I would have to work to get them used to my presence without the fighting the confinement or trying to run away. That’s certainly not the best way to teach them to trust us humans.

Since many mares are already overprotective of their babies, handling them early is the only way to build trust. It’s also easier by far to introduce your your young horse to his farrier and veterinarian (if you should need one for an emergency) if he’s already used to being handled and can be lead safely with a halter.

I want each of my foals to be completely used to being touched all over, having their feet picked up and being groomed on a regular basis (preferably every day) by the time they reach one month of age. By six to eight weeks they should know how to lead easily from both sides and be ready to learn the basics of longeing. Now, by that I don’t mean you should expect to take your babies out and truly longe them on the end of a longe line at a gallop, but I do want them to know how to walk in a circle around me both ways and to fully understand what “Whoa!” means. I also want to be able to walk all the way around them in each direction without them moving.

Teaching a foal “Whoa!” doesn’t need to be a big deal, but it is an essential basic all horses must know. Never make a major production out of anything insubordinate he may do. If you want him to stand still while you walk around him, tell him “Whoa!” in a firm yet gentle voice. If he moves, even if it’s only one small step, gently move him back to where he originally was and tell him “Whoa!” again, your voice more firm this time, and give a tiny gentle tug downward on the lead rope to further illustrate your point. After this exercise becomes routine, he will begin to understand the concept. Then, when you’re teaching him to “longe” around you with his lead rope on, he will understand that when you say “Whoa!”, that means stop. Remember, repetition is the key to training any animal, and horses are no different.

The reason for his learning to lead from both sides (rather than just getting used to you being on his left, which is the side we traditionally lead from) is simple: We’re going to be teaching him how to longe from both sides, right? We also don’t want him afraid to have us on his right side for a myriad of reasons. For instance, you may need to lead him down a narrow road or pathway where the only safe place for you to be is on his right. You wouldn’t want him to balk at being lead “wrong” and bolt into the street when a car is coming toward you in a situation such as that, would you?

As far as him learning to tie, there are many ongoing debates regarding the age when a young horse should be able to safely handle being tied. Naturally, if a foal is too young and his bone structure too immature, you can cause his neck to break by forcing him to fight the lead rope, not to mention causing him a great deal of fear and pain getting to that point. Always remember that a horse’s natural instinct is to lean into pressure ~ they have to be taught to move away from it. When you try to tie a horse who’s never been tied to anything in his life, he will instinctively pull back on the rope he’s tied with. True, he’ll eventually figure out that he can’t go anywhere and he’ll give up fighting (at least if the rope, snap or halter doesn’t break first), but he might injure himself in the process.

At age eight to nine weeks or so, after the foal is used to being lead around in his halter and lead rope, and is completely familiar with the concept of “Whoa!”, understanding that the command means to stop, I begin to teach him the basics of being tied. At first I don’t even want to attempt to secure him solidly to anything. I usually begin tying lessons in a pipe corral without any fencing on the sides.

What I do to start is loop the lead rope around a vertical post in the middle of the corral section I’ve chosen to work him on. Instead of tying the rope, I simply hold the end of it for a few minutes until he realizes he can’t walk away because he’s attached to it. In his mind, he’s now “tied” and he will almost always try to put up a little bit of a fight. I will always tell him “Whoa!” in a soft yet firm reassuring tone while he is fighting the rope, to try to get him to understand that he’s got to stand still. When he stops, I will immediately loosen up on the rope and tell him what a wonderful, smart horse he is, praising him lavishly. I’ll then re-tighten the rope to see if the situation repeats itself, which it usually will for several instances.

Generally, it only takes one lesson which lasts about twenty to thirty minutes at most for him to figure out that he’s not being hurt when he stands tied quietly, and then I’ll have a truly halter broke horse. After a few minutes, however, if he still tries to fight the rope and may either be getting too fatigued or may be in a position to hurt himself, such as putting his forelegs through the corral), I will loosen up on the lead rope, rub on him for a while and perhaps groom him to soothe his mind and let him know everything is going to be fine. In most cases, a foal will ordinarily stop fighting and accept being tied without too much further argument. Once he has stopped pulling back forcefully, you can actually tie him up (always with a quick release knot!). One critical point to remember is that you don’t want him to associate being tied with a negative experience. Reward him when he stands still and don’t prolong the session any longer than it needs to be. Less is more. You can always repeat the same steps the next day, and by then you should have a horse who’s fully broke to tie.

The other subject I want to address is when to wean your baby. Again, there are many differences of opinion on what age is best, but it really depends on several factors. One is how much of a burden the foal is putting on his mother. If the mare is getting too thin, and her baby seems to be draining her, I’ll usually begin the weaning process a little early. Many show farms wean their foals as early as three months of age, by which time the foal should be eating a good diet of hay and supplements, depending less on his dam for nutrition. Some places wait until their foals are six months or older.

Under ideal circumstances I will separate a foal from his dam at four months, which is about the median age for weaning. Another consideration that sometimes needs to be figured in is if either baby or mom is going to be shown. It is definitely a hassle to take both of them to a show prior to weaning, so I generally don’t plan on any shows for my broodmares or babies until weaning is complete.

As a matter of method, I prefer to keep the mare and foal side by side in separate corrals but near each other to avoid “separation anxiety”. After they’ve been separated, I don’t want the baby to be able to nurse any longer, and since the instinct will be very strong, I want some fencing on the paddock section between them. Generally, I will gradually try to get both mom and baby used to leaving each other for short periods of time prior to the actual weaning, progressing to longer and longer periods apart while I am working, grooming, bathing or clipping one of them, and so on. By the time I am ready to wean the baby, he doesn’t think of mom going away for a little while as being any traumatic thing ~ it’s no big deal.

Hopefully both halter breaking and weaning can be a bonding experience for you and your precious foal. These experiences will take you through his entire lifetime, and will carry over to whomever purchases him should you decide to sell him. They are the building blocks of a good, solid education, and the more pleasant these experiences are for both you and him, the easier it will be to continue to train him when he becomes old enough to begin his chosen career.

Remember what they say ~ a little goes a long way. A little bit of thinking can go a long way toward ensuring you have a healthy, happy, well adjusted foal who trusts you to treat him right and teach him the ways of the world as he grows up, whether his mom is there or not.

~SFTS

Breeding: Pregnancy and Foaling

2010-01-02T08:15:00.000-08:00

Because foaling season closely follows breeding season, and in most cases they overlap, this month we are going to explore all the intricacies and aspects of pregnancy and foaling in mares. We have already delved into the world of stallion management and other important breeding issues, thorough knowledge of which can help a whole lot of mare owners get their mares returned in foal with the least amount of effort expended by the stud farm and the least amount of money expended by the mare owner. I highly recommend following the advice and procedures presented here in those earlier installments.

Assuming, once you’ve decided to breed your mare and have chosen the right stallion (your decision, of course, based on a lot of research and tireless devotion to producing the most fantastic foal in the world!), that she actually is in foal, you will want to make sure she has the best care possible in her time of need.

Although different circumstances call for different methods, mares who are in foal should be exercised on a regular basis. I do not, however, like to see a mare get too much exercise before the first sixty (60) days of her pregnancy are behind her. After she is checked by your veterinarian...preferably by ultrasound rather than pelvic/rectal palpation...and it is confirmed that she is, indeed, in foal you can slowly start to resume a somewhat normal work program for her. For my own mares, depending on what job they do and what must be asked of them in order to perform that job, I will usually ride them until about eight weeks prior to foaling. After that I generally longe them lightly (walk and slow jog), turn them out by themselves ~ which minimizes the risk of getting kicked by another horse or similar situation which could cause the mare to abort ~ for several hours during the day or walk them (by hand or by puttting them on the hotwalker) for a short period several times each day.

Because your mare will be gaining weight, you want to be sure to keep her current on farrier visits, but I generally want shoes pulled off at least three-four weeks before the mare is due to foal so she won’t badly injure her baby if she were to step on him with her steel shoes. Just be sure to keep her feet trimmed properly to avoid unnecessary problems that will have to be corrected later, such as hooves that “pancake out”, or spread, which can sometimes cause severe cracking of the hoof wall.

Mares should always be kept on a strict deworming and vaccination schedule when in foal as well, but you must keep in close contact with your veterinarian to find out when these things should be accomplished. Worming a pregnant mare with a medication which can be toxic to her foal, or giving your mare the wrong shots at the wrong time can be dangerous. Her diet is also of utmost importance. Be careful not to overfeed, but adjust her feed according to how far along she is ~ the closer to foaling, the more you can feed her, but monitor her weight and intake constantly. It is also a good idea to discuss feeding with your vet, as he or she will be able to give you an approximate amount your mare should be consuming each day.

There are many well known “rules” about mares and foaling, such as length of gestation, being “waxed up” or dripping milk, but the only real rule is that there are no rules. We know that the average gestation period is about 340 days, but can vary widely in mares. Long has waxing (having “wax candles” ~ dried droplets of colostrum ~ hanging from the teats) been considered a sign of imminent labor and delivery. As a general rule, mares who are fully bagged, meaning their udders are full of milk and dripping milk, are going to deliver soon, but even that isn’t always the case. Some mares have been known to drip rather heavy volumes of milk for several days before actually presenting you with a baby (in which case she could be losing large quantities of colostrum which should be collected and stored to be given to the foal after he or she is born).

Within two weeks of the predicted due date, you should make sure your mare is housed in a safe, large (preferably 12’ x 24’ or larger) box stall and bedded with an adequate amount of straw. I prefer mares foaling on straw as it’s a softer cushion for the foal and it helps prohibit the respiratory problems often associated with the smaller particles found in shavings. This way, if she should decide to have her foal early you’ll be prepared. I like to keep an around the clock watch on mares when they’re getting close to their due date. You don’t necessarily need to get up every hour during the night if she’s comfortably resting, but when her behavior begins to change, that can be a pretty good indicator that her time is getting near. Remember ~ the safest foaling by far is an attended one! Also, if you have never had a mare in foal before, I strongly urge you to have either your vet or a friend who has been breeding for some time in attendance with you. Don’t try to go it alone your first time!

A distinct advantage in the area of observation is a closed-circuit television camera with the monitor set up in your house, on which you can keep a close eye on her without having to leave the comfort of your cozy home just to see that she’s sleeping peacefully. Equally as good is having an observation area next to her stall, or an adequate foaling location next to her bedroom window (I have done this before!). There have been mares who I’ve watched religiously for two solid weeks that have foaled behind my back the second I went into the house to get a Kleenex! Lesson learned ~ keep facial tissue and anything else you might need out at the barn when she’s getting close, or you might miss the miracle of birth! Many mares will begin to get restless and pace their stalls, go off their feed and so on, when they’re getting ready to deliver. Unless your mare is a maiden (meaning she’s never had a foal before ~ in which case do your best guesswork!) you should become familiar with her regular routine and how it may change around foaling time.

As parturition (the clinical term for foaling) approaches, be sure to contact your veterinarian and make certain he/she will be available if there is a problem with the delivery. Generally, the foal will reposition itself, or “turn”, in the last four to six hours before birth. When this occurs, your mare’s belly will appear to drop down and you can see much more movement from the baby. You should see a noticeable dropping off, or slackening, of the muscles in the mare’s rump, plus a lengthening and swelling of her vulva (a signal of dilation of the cervix) during this time. Most mares will begin to go through periods of sweating during the early stages of labor, but do not be alarmed...this is perfectly normal, and she is not in any danger.

The time between the onset of labor and presentation of the foal will include rupturing of the membranes (i.e., her “water breaks”), and can vary greatly from mare to mare. Some mares can rapidly go from the first stage of labor to the active stage (birth of the foal itself) without any warning at all, so you will need to keep constant watch over her to render any assistance necessary. Again, I highly recommend having someone with you who is experienced with foaling if you don’t have much experience yourself. A good person to contact in this instance, if you don’t have any friends who breed horses, is the stallion owner or breeding manager from the farm that stands your new baby’s sire. They are usually more than happy to offer any help you may need.

As the foal begins to appear through the amniotic sac, it’s forelegs should be coming out first, one in front of the other to ease the passage of the foal through the mare’s pelvic arch, with it’s tiny nose perched on top in a “diving position” as we call it. Almost immediately the foal’s little hooves (although initially covered with soft pads to avoid injuring his mama which will fall off soon after he’s born) should tear open the sac, and you should make sure his airway is clean and open so that he can start breathing on his own. With a normal, problem free delivery, the mare should be allowed to rest if she wants at different times, even if her foal isn’t all the way out yet. As you fellow mothers out there know, labor and delivery can be an exhausting experience. Just ask my husband!

When the baby has completely cleared the birth canal, do not attempt to cut the umbilical cord! This could cause the foal to lose a lot of precious blood. Once the cord has been severed naturally by the movements of either baby or mom, soak the baby’s navel stump in iodine to prevent infection, and tie up the end of the cord so your mare will avoid stepping on it, and thus, potentially tearing the placenta (afterbirth). The afterbirth may not be passed for several hours, but you want to be sure to save it for your vet to thoroughly examine to ensure that none was retained inside the mare’s uterus, which can cause severe infection.

At this point, both the mare and her newborn foal should be allowed to bond without human interference, but if the baby doesn’t appear to be breathing on it’s own, you may need to resuscitate him. This is one area I will not go into in any further detail here, but I must stress do not be unprepared for anything ~ problems CAN arise quickly. Be sure you know what can happen and what to do in the event something goes wrong!

Within the first hour or so, the foal should begin trying to stand (some try it immediately) and will start looking for his first meal. The act of a foal first attempting to stand can be a somewhat nerve-wracking experience for the first time breeder, since most foals fall down or run into walls or fences several times before they actually get the hang of balancing on their new hooves and those spindly little legs, but most of the time they’re fine and you should let nature take it’s course. When baby is ready to start eating, don’t be too concerned if he doesn’t find what he’s looking for right away. Most often, if left alone, they will do fine. It is critical, however, that the foal consume the first milk of the mare ~ the colostrum ~ as they are not born with any immunity to disease and must receive their resistance to infection from their mother. You want to make sure that the foal is drinking effectively within two hours of birth. If anything appears to be wrong, do not hesitate to call your vet right away.

Because a majority of mares foal during the late evening or in the early morning hours, I usually don’t have the vet out until the following day during regular business hours (unless there is an emergency, of course). Included in the first post-partum visit should be a thorough examination of the foal, at which time he should be given his Tetanus Antitoxin shot and an enema (to prevent retained meconium ~ the first stool of the foal). I will usually automatically administer a Fleet’s enema myself, the kind you can buy at your local drug store. Your vet should also look at the placenta (as described above) and if you are planning to re-breed your mare, you will need to discuss with him when you should do so.

Once the exhilaration of the foaling experience is behind you, it will be time to start planning your new baby’s future. Will he be a great show horse or race horse? Will he be the next superstar sire? Will he just be loved by you for his trusting nature and willingness to carry you down any trail you wish to explore? These are just a few of the reasons we breed horses in the first place. Whatever his lot in life, you can make sure he gets the best start possible by being a responsible breeder.

~SFTS

Good Riddance!!

2010-01-01T06:55:00.000-08:00

Welcome to 2010...as the title suggests, we are bidding good riddance to last year.

This new year begins with great hope and promise. As mentioned yesterday, we have exciting plans for a very full year. What do you have in store? Anything special?

Hopefully you had a wonderful New Year's Eve with a fun, safe celebration and lots of good cheer. We spent a quiet night at home with the family, which was very nice.

This morning sit back, have a cup of your favorite coffee, cocoa, cider or other hot drink and enjoy the beautiful Rose Parade.

Happy New Year!!

Tomorrow we are back to talking horses. :)

~SFTS

When The Clock Strikes Midnight...

2009-12-31T08:50:00.000-08:00

...2009 will be history. I am sure many of you will agree that saying goodbye to this year won't break your heart. I know it won't break mine!!

Now is, however, the time to reflect back on what went right, the successes garnered as well as the triumphs and victories, all individually unique, of the past twelve months.

This past year started with a bang as *Noble Lord JP was awarded a Top Five with his owner in the elite Freestyle Liberty Championship, after winning his section, at the prestigious Scottsdale All Arabian horse show in Arizona. As an added bonus, his grandson TF Sir Prize was also named Top Five in the Freestyle Liberty, plus Top Tens in both AOTH and Open Stallion Halter (winning the Reserve Championship in the AO). A great-grandson, Sirpremacy DP also brought home Top Tens in both the AOTH and Open Two Year Old Colt classes. It was truly a family affair!

We also brought home more blue ribbons and high point awards than we can count from both the Mojave River Valley Horsemen's Association and the Sun Country Horsemen's Association, in addition to taking home the SCHA Yearling Longeline Futurity Championship.

Our year culminated in multiple Year End High Point Championships with several clients, horses and students; with a couple of YEHP Reserve Championships and a Trainer of the Year award from Sun Country Horsemen. On various levels, 2009 was indeed a very good year.

In store for 2010 is another long show season with hopefully many, many more shining moments. We will definitely share them through this blog, in addition to continuing to offer more equine-related wisdom and training advice. All of you readers really make my day, every day. :) This is, after all, an online horse training resource for all. I thank each and every one of you for your participation and patronage.

We'll see you next year!!

~SFTS

Everybody Loves A Parade!

2009-12-30T08:35:00.000-08:00

Who doesn't? Pretty much all kids (and kids at heart) are mesmerized by all the floats, the marching bands and, you guessed it, the horses.

Equestrian units have been a hallmark of parades for well over 100 years ~ likely a whole lot longer. In fact, the first parades in the USA consisted almost exclusively of horse-related entries. There seem to be very few that do not feature horses prominently, from the small town cavalcade heading through Main Street America to the (inter)nationally televised processions down the boulevards of our largest cities.

But what if you want to ride in one? As a rule, you're not going to get picked for the Tournament of Roses extravaganza with no experience, so you've got to start somewhere. Most parades are organized by cities or civic organizations. If you are familiar with when parades in your area are happening, keep an eye on the local paper so you can catch the contact information for whoever hosts those events. They will have entry forms you will need to carefully fill out and turn in, and an information packet available which you'll need to study and follow. Pay special attention to the timelines of when you need to be mounted, in line and ready to go.

Many years ago my earliest experiences as a parade participant were with our region's ETI (Equestrian Trails, Inc) club. After riding back in the group a couple of times, my lovely grey *Raffles-bred Arabian gelding and I were tapped to carry the American flag. Flag training was a fun and challenging endeavor. I started by using a flannel bed sheet attached to an old rake handle and practiced riding with it in the arena for a while each day until my horse was fully comfortable ~ making sure to also practice on windy days!!

By 1984 I was invited to ride in the Rose Parade itself, which was the honor of a lifetime. There are no words to describe the feeling of receiving one of those very special invitation letters, let alone riding your beloved mount down Colorado Blvd on New Years Day! Keep in mind, though, it does usually take some years of experience before reaching that pinnacle of parade-dom.

Since then I have ridden in many parades, both as an individual and as part of a group. Riding by yourself isn't such a big deal, however grouping horses (as well as the choreography involved) can be a challenge. First, you need to pair horses of similar size and stride length. Color can be a consideration, too, then designing a formation based on how many horses you have to work with and what they look like.

Practice makes perfect! Once that formation is decided on, work on several key points. Keeping time with each other, maintaining a consistent speed (you can ask the parade organizers approximately how fast or how slow they will expect you to be...generally relatively slow) and building up your horse's patience and endurance for a longer parade. I like to use a car driving in front of us to set the pace for the first time or two of practice, so we can get into the mode of speed we need to be in.

Another major consideration, especially in picking horses to be in a parade, will be how well they each handle distractions and behave themselves in noisy or stressful situations. Be sure ALL horses deal well with traffic, lots of people, a great deal of noise and that they have no problem with walking on pavement or blacktop. Also make certain that they are fine with crossing painted lines on the street. This is a must to avoid issues during the parade itself and all part of training the parade horse.

After you're entered, you've practiced and you are ready to go comes deciding on attire and decorations, if applicable. For a 4th of July parade, obviously red, white and blue are in order; when you are riding in a Christmastime parade, stick with reds and greens, silver and gold. With a large group, all riders should either be wearing the same simple costume (such as a white shirt, black jeans and a black hat, for example, and you can purchase or make matching saddle blankets and even colorful leg wraps that match your saddle pads) or you can all be attired in proper show clothing, which is what our show team generally does. On our horses, we only use simple, classy embellishments like bows, roses and/or neck garlands based on the theme of the parade. For a Christmas parade a few years back, we bought beautiful silk and velvet poinsettia garlands to go around our horses' necks. See picture below:

Most of all, have fun and make sure someone takes plenty of pictures for posterity!

In two days' time, once again there will be horses marching through Pasadena, this time heralding the arrival of 2010, along with all the additional pageantry that is the annual Tournament of Roses parade.

I wanted to make special mention of the fact that Region One of the Arabian Horse Association has a group riding in this prestigious event, along with my dear friend (Region One Director) Nancy Harvey and her breakthrough Carriage Driving horse. Nancy and her beautiful mare are National Champions in Carriage Driving! Watch for them ~ these guys and gals (as well as their gorgeous Arabian show horses) are making us all so proud!!

~SFTS

Battle Of The Breeds

2009-12-29T19:41:00.000-08:00

Today I thought I'd offer something for a little bit of fun, just a little post because it was something I have been thinking about since I wrote the original article over a year ago. As everyone who reads this blog no doubt is aware, I am fairly partial to Arabian horses, which does not necessarily mean that I cannot appreciate horses of a variety of breeds.

In addition to Purebred and Partbred Arabians, I have owned Thoroughbreds, Quarter Horses, a Mustang and even Welsh Ponies. Over the years I have also had Andalusians, Appaloosas, Morgans, Paints, Saddlebreds, Standardbreds, a multitude of various Warmblood breeds and even a couple of gaited horses of the TWH/SSH variety, among others, in training. They each have their good points that's for sure.

But what attracts us to our favorite breeds? For me, my attraction to the Arabian horse is their breathtaking beauty, their incredible personalities, their amazing intelligence and how well they retain what they have been taught. All that and the loyalty these horses show their human guardians.

Some of the most unforgettable horses in my life...

My Quarter Horse mare, "Spook", was a daughter of Joe Reed II and quite possibly the best moving, smoothest Western Pleasure horse even born. In our years showing, I don't recall that she ever lost a class. She was also the horse who taught me how to master both Showmanship and Horsemanship...and win.

My Thoroughbred mare, "Brandy", was an OTTB bought off a Southern California horse trader who helped me learn an immense amount of patience. She was my first show horse many, many years ago and cemented my love of equestrian competition. This gallant girl was first and foremost an educator.

My Section B Welsh Pony mare, "Sugar", was an exquisite silver dapple who became my best friend on planet Earth. Our adventures and mis-adventures include some of the most memorable times I can recall. We explored trails and hit the show ring under both English and Western tack, bringing home the blue ribbons. Then she was just always there to 'talk' to in my early adolescence.

My Mustang mare, "Babe", was possibly the most patient equine soul ever foaled. She was the cornerstone of our lesson program for many years and was adored by by children and adults alike. I trusted this grand lady with my most precious 'student', my daughter Lisa, as a wee tyke. But she would come alive the moment I settled into the saddle.

Then there were my two equine partners-in-'crime', Kassaul++ and Samir Hadji. Grey Arabian geldings of two different generations (foaled in 1972 and 1980 respectively); they were both exceedingly versatile and brought home many Halter Championships in addition to excelling in a plethora of performance divisions, with Championships in Western Pleasure, Hunter Pleasure, English Pleasure, Hunters Over Fences, Sidesaddle among others.

I have purposefully not included any of my present horses here, though I could fill two million blog posts about them alone. :)

My point this time around is to get you all thinking about what each of the special horses in your lives have truly meant to you.

I hope you have enjoyed this trip down memory lane as much as I have!

~SFTS

Halter Vs. Performance

2009-12-28T21:08:00.000-08:00

These days many breeds seem to be splintering off into various factions, however it frequently boils down to Halter or performance as though the two are not (or should not be) intrinsically linked.

There are still a few stellar performers who can also win in the Halter ring, but they are disappearing in a myriad of breeds. My question is, why are there not Halter judging standards across the board which reward overall good conformation, movement and form-to-function in a horse? Both segments of the industry would benefit from such a thing, in my opinion.

One of the most glaring examples is the difference between a World Championship Quarter Horse from the Halter ring and a Western Pleasure horse of identical quality within his chosen division. Add in the working performance horse (Reiners, Cutters, Reined Cow Horses) and you've got three distinct types of horses. When judges are pinning post legged, crippled moving beasts that often look more like beef cattle than horses, there is likely a problem.

We have a similar issue in the Arabian breed, which was a major reason there was such strong support for a numerical scoring system from the performance enthusiasts. A good many Arabian Halter horses have lost the breed's trademark athletic ability, rendering them virtually useless as performance horses. But it doesn't have to be that way.

Another issue along the same lines are those folks who just prefer one over the other. This is something I've never really quite understood, because I enjoy both ~ whether watching or competing. Some folks just seem to have that preference for either Halter or performance. That's fine, I guess. It just doesn't resonate with me.

Here is how I view it: You judge a Halter horse based on two basic criteria; how he most exemplifies his breed and how well he is put together for a performance career. From my perspective, you cannot have one without the other. Some may say, what about the horse who becomes injured and cannot reasonably compete to win under saddle? As long as he is conformed correctly in the first place, there is no issue. He is still a correct individual and had he not been injured he likely would have excelled as a performance prospect.

Getting back to basics, here is why to my way of thinking it is important that Halter judging needs to become based more on form-to-function and conformation as opposed to remaining strictly a beauty contest. We have some truly beautiful horses out there, however, National or World Champion Halter winners are held up as each breed's ideal. So, what happens when folks who are looking for a nice, solid, sound horse who's going to have longevity in a performance discipline are swayed by images of "perfect" Halter horses held up as the epitome of what their chosen breed is supposed to look like? See the problem there?

When the naive public views those Halter winning horses as what they should be searching for to have a distinguished career in Dressage, or Reining, or Endurance (for instance) and the vet bills are mounting after purchase because it wasn't wise to buy that "pretty Halter horse" to begin with, making such an investment can be viewed as throwing good money after bad. Which, in turn, causes people to flock away from the horse industry in general (and the show ring specifically) having been burned by reality.

Nothing is wrong with owning, breeding, training or showing Halter horses. I would just rather see judges rewarding what they should be and see better horses being pinned as the "perfect" or "ideal" representative of any given breed, that's all.

~SFTS

Breeding Preparation Checklist

2009-12-27T20:16:00.000-08:00

For today just a quick little post in anticipation of more breeding-related subject matter in the upcoming days and weeks ~ just swamped busy today putting in a lot of hours on some horses, so this will be a short one. Now it's off to bed early so I can get up bright and early at 4 AM to do it all over again tomorrow!! :)

Now that breeding season is almost upon us, and before it gets into into full swing, I am presenting the following tips to make sure the experience of breeding your mare goes as smoothly as possible.

First you have to know whether your mare will be bred live cover or AI (artificial insemination) using shipped semen. Of course, sometimes when you bring a mare to the stallion, she is still covered via AI, however we’re just using the two different scenarios here. Plan well in advance so you know when you’re breeding and be sure to let the stallion owner know when to expect your mare, or your order.

Then you have to be sure when she is cycling so that you don’t send her to the stallion, or order the semen shipment, with no hope of breeding her within a reasonable time. In both instances, you will save yourself a lot of money as well as time for both you and the stallion owners or managers (and your vet if breeding AI). If breeding live cover, you’ll have to get a culture done to make certain your mare is disease free and will not be infecting the stallion. This is also a good idea when breeding AI, just to be sure there will be no complications with the pregnancy and foaling.

Once you know when your mare’s cycle will begin, you can plan with the stallion owner, their vet and/or your own veterinarian to get her bred at the optimum time for her to get in foal. No stallion owner, manager or reproductive specialist vet likes to waste time with a mare not ready to breed!

Following these simple steps you can be assured that your mare will get in foal in a timely manner and present you with that adorable baby come next year!

~SFTS

True Collection ~ What Is It, Really?

2009-12-26T12:36:00.000-08:00

Our question for today: What is real, true collection anyhow? Some people view it as merely a headset, but they could not be more wrong. I define collection as having the horse engaged, rounded and elevated.

Now, that 'elevation' does not necessarily negate the long-and-low traditional daisy cutter open Hunter horse or the stock breed Western pleasure horse from ultimately being able to properly collect, it is in my view simply a more difficult task for those horses, not because they lack any specific physical trait, but because of how they tend to be trained. We can ask that the horse 'elevate' by using and raising his shoulders and that does qualify as elevation.

To achieve that real collection we'll look at and implement elements of the traditional training scale (most often discussed in terms of Dressage, but compatible with all disciplines) and seek to put all of the pieces together while focusing on engaging the horse from behind. What does that mean and how do we go about it? "Engagement" is actually the flexion of a horse's lumbosacral joint. Getting that engagement of the hindquarters is paramount to collection.

Our first task must be gaining a steady rhythm through relaxation. With some horses it's easy, others take more time. We have already discussed how to supple your horse as well as how best to plan and prepare for your training sessions. But getting to the heart of the matter, how is rhythm best accomplished? I use the same lateral flexion exercises described earlier, beginning at the halt, moving into the walk, then the trot and eventually to the canter. When the horse relaxes, he will find his rhythm. We begin with bending and flexing when standing, advancing to circles and figures of eight while moving forward ~ which is yet another key term.

By this time, you will have gained the necessary suppleness as outlined previously. Then we need the horse to learn to seek contact. Contact. That word perplexes many, and has been undermined by too many re-writes of even the most basic of rules. Case in point the language which allows for an extreme draped rein in a Western pleasure horse of most any breed. Yes, there is a difference between the expected contact in a Western pleasure horse and a Dressage horse, or a flat saddle English horse, however the concept remains the same.

It is necessary to acquire contact through driving the horse forward, not taking hold of the horse's face. Nothing positive will be accomplished by trying to work front-to-back, though a great many riders and trainers do just this. To me, it is nothing but a shortcut and creates far more issues that it might solve in the short term. I want my horses to seek my hands as opposed to me pulling on them, I liken it to the difference between playing tug-of-war versus pedaling a bicycle. You use your legs to propel the bike forward, instead of getting into a pulling match.

We are now seeing the the beginnings of impulsion, when the horse steps up under himself and moves off freely forward with full compliance. Some equate impulsion with speed, but they too would be incorrect. Impulsion might infer that the horse is traveling faster, however what you actually see is a lengthening of stride (generally accompanied by a lengthening of frame).

Often people get stuck on the speed versus lengthening and believe pushing the horse to move faster means they are showing greater impulsion. Here is a tip I've mentioned before, which will show you if you're getting that true impulsion ~ using the short sides of the arena, ask your horse to shorten his stride; then push him to extend down the long sides. By using your seat as well as your legs, independently of your hands (the horse must come to you), the level of impulsion will become evident.

Finally we get to straightness and balance. One myth is that a horse must be traveling in a straight line to be considered straight. The trouble with that is, we need the horse to be balanced and "straight" no matter if he's going down the rail, giving us a leg yield, circling or performing any maneuver. What does straight mean? Quite simply that the horse is balanced, his body is in alignment with his nose and his hindquarters are in alignment with his forehand.

To create and maintain that straightness, it is necessary to determine the horse's "bad" direction, all horses have one way they prefer (and are better at) than the other. I compare this to being right-handed versus left-handed. For me it is incredibly difficult to write with my left hand, though thoroughly natural with my right. All my horses are worked longer on their bad direction than their good, in order to gain strength and even out their performances.

Which brings us to collection. It is said that when you have all of the elements of the training scale present, collection will happen naturally. In effect, the horse's weight will be shifted back, he will drop his haunches (flexing that lumbosacral joint mentioned above), his steps will become shorter, lighter and higher and ultimately he will appear to be traveling...even if ever so slightly, as in the case of a Western horse...uphill.

You must connect each element and put them together. They are all equally important, no skipping or leaving things out ~ that will only lead to holes in your horse's training big enough to drive a semi through. Take it step by step, then as you progress revisit the prior steps on a fairly regular basis to be sure your horse maintains his foundation.

All of the above will bring you and your horse to gaining and maintaining true collection. Congratulations, you made it!

~SFTS

Merry Christmas ~ Happy Holidays!

2009-12-25T09:49:00.000-08:00

As it is Christmas Day I'm just going to put up a quick, short post then get back to the day's festivities.

First off, I'd like to wish you all a wonderful Holiday season. All of us here at Sunlit Farm and our extended family are hoping for all the best to you and yours now and in the future.

Though this has been a trying year for many of us, we are also blessed with having good friends and excellent horses which makes the tough times a whole lot easier to bear. Reflecting back, we have made incredible strides and progress this year, both personally and professionally ~ which has been a very pleasant surprise.

It is my sincere hope that every one of you has had the same blessings in your lives. I know it would have been far more tough to get through 2009 without them.

In store for today after breakfast and presents, I'll be saddling up a few horses and getting some quality time on their backs. Then bundling them back up snug in their stalls and giving them a Christmas feast before heading over to a dear friend's home for a delicious Christmas dinner.

Hope your Holiday is one of the best ever!

~SFTS

Forums, Articles & Blogs...Oh My!

2009-12-24T09:50:00.000-08:00

Today we're going to talk about online reading material. I know, some topic. ;) But the fact is, there are a number of really terrific places to read depending on what your interests are and what you like, as well as what you can tolerate. Some are terrific, some are good, some are bad, some are really bad.

Suffice it to say, I'm not going to get into the bad forums here, though TJM of Shame in the Horse Show Ring did a blog post about [both good and] bad forums in her opinion. I pretty much concur with her, though I could add a few real gems.

Of course, my favorite places are Arabian forums and there are two I frequent; Ablackhorse.com and the Ammy Army. Both revolve around discussions of the Arabian show ring, Ablackhorse is more for the passionate debates about the state of our industry and the promotion of our horses, while the Army is all about helping amateur owners condition, train and present their own horses in the show ring.

Another of my few favorite places to lurk are Chronicle of the Horse, Ultimate Dressage, Reining Talk, the Cutting Horse Forum and the Farrier & Hoofcare Resource Center.

There really aren't any general non-breed or discipline related forums I like, though there are a ton of them out there. Most are too cliquish for my liking, though I encourage you to go searching for a place you fit in to enjoy!

As for blogging, the hallmark of horse blogs is Fugly Horse of the Day. I also like the Mugwump Chronicles and Juli Thorson's Horse Talk. There are dozens more, but I just simply don't have time to search for more to read and no time to read all that anyhow! Often clients, friends and readers send me links but I still have a mile long list of both blogs and forums I haven't even had a chance to look at.

If you like, feel free to share other good places to talk horses. I'm sure many readers would love to know about sites where friendly, knowledgeable horse owners or trainers post or discuss the equines in their lives!

~SFTS

A Matter Of Insurance

2009-12-23T20:27:00.000-08:00

Some of the topics we have covered here allude to necessary insurance, but now we'll get into detail. First there are a few imperative questions to ask yourself.What sort of coverage do you need? Are you operating (or thinking about operating) a public equestrian facility? Are you or will you be offering professional services?

For the average horse owner keeping your personal equines at home, all that's really needed is a basic farm and ranch rider added to your homeowners policy, plus any additional insurance you want for your horses themselves. From mortality to major medical to surgical, or some combination of the above, they're pretty self-explanatory.

Mortality insurance for horses, of course, protects the owner's investment in the event of the horse's death. Most accidental causes of death are covered, as is loss caused by illness or injury. As a rule, there is an age limit of animals eligible for such insurance, plus some excluded pre-existing conditions. Most of the time a veterinary exam is indicated in order to purchase a mortality policy with your vet's signature on the application generally considered mandatory. For higher insured amounts you will usually be asked to justify why the horse should be covered for so much, such as a show or breeding record for a horse you'd like to unsure for $5-$10k and above.

Major Medical insurance covers most serious illnesses and injuries, and in some cases there is a deductible. Again, pre-existing conditions may prohibit your horse from being eligible for benefits, as well as age, however it's an invaluable resource for your younger, healthy horses.

Equally worthwhile is Surgical insurance for essentially the same reasons as major medical, though (as the name suggests) it pertains to surgery. Impaction colics, impassable enteroliths, tendon repair and any of a multitude of potentially necessary procedures are covered, once again as long as your horse meets the criteria.

If you offer boarding services to outside clients, with or without training included, Care, Custody and Control coverage is a must. This protects you in relation to all outside horses on your property and offers added benefits by insuring you against claims of damage or injury to the horses in your care. Also, as a rule if any action is brought against you as a result of a covered loss, your CCC policy will also require your insurance company to defend you. Definitely worth having.

For any trainers of riding instructors, or if you are one yourself, trainer's liability, instructor's liability or both are also mandatory with a $1 million aggregate limit, naming the owner of the facility as an additional insured. These policies protect you (both the professional and the facility owner) against claims of injury relating to the training and horsemanship/riding lesson portion of your business, as long as such claims are not due to negligence.

During my long career, which spans three decades, I've been fortunate enough to have never had a claim against me ~ knock on wood! ~ though having the piece of mind in knowing you're covered goes a long way toward being able to concentrate on business instead of extraneous matters like liability.

~SFTS

Your Horse And The IRS ~ What You Need To Know

2009-12-22T22:00:00.000-08:00

Something I generally do not advocate any longer is to choose horse breeding as a business venture due to the difficulties in establishing that you're operating a profit driven entity. It is not so much a lack of desire to be profitable, merely the hardship of proving your profitability in today's economy.

Let's face it, the IRS is looking to catch us all not paying our fair share to Uncle Sam. Many people fib numbers, some hide assets or income and some just set out to commit blatant fraud on several levels.

But what really are deductible expenses in relation to your horse business? As long as you are using services and items, purchasing memberships or so forth for your business, they fall under the guidelines. For instance, if you have a cell phone used exclusively for business use, that's deductible. Even computer repairs and maintenance of machines used for business purposes are an allowable deduction. There are also percentages of other expenses which may not exclusively be related to your business which can be taken on your tax return, such as vehicle costs.

Acquisition of breeding stock or animals for use as lesson horses, for instance, along with all expenses associated with them and their upkeep are included on the allowed deductions list as well. Going on a buying spree to find your husband the right trail horse or looking to purchase a barrel racer for your daughter to compete on isn't. Sounds simple, doesn't it?

I keep track of all expenses associated with my business and make sure I'm keeping everything that's business-related separate from our personal expenditures. Some of my horses are used for lessons and as such they have an explicit place in the business; others are not and nothing associated with them is allowable.

Recently I covered developing a comprehensive business plan for your horse-related endeavor. Adding to that advice, I think it is essential that you consult a tax professional, an accountant and an attorney all specializing in equine issues before jumping in with both feet. This is what I did many years ago and to me it just makes good business sense.

Here is another piece of advice too many young people who wish to break into the industry fail to heed ~ go out and talk to those who have been in this industry for many years and take what they have to say to heart. You may not always like what they tell you, but most of us are more than happy to impart our wisdom to the public and it's likely to save you a great deal of heartaches and headaches if you listen. Being stubborn and thinking you know it all because you've been riding since you were five years old does nothing constructive for your business.

What does the above have to do with the Internal Revenue Service? If you're audited (been there, done that) and all your records are in order, they will still be looking for your intent or lack thereof. When you can show how much research and thought you put into your decision to go into business, you're that much closer to surviving that audit unscathed without losing your shirt...or your business.

If after reading this you still are intent on pursuing horses as a vocation and hanging out your shingle, or starting a breeding program, welcome to the club! Truly the most satisfying thing in the world is to create something yourself and build it into a success. I wouldn't trade it for anything on this Earth!

~SFTS

Don't Lean On Me ~ Softening The Hard Mouthed Horse

2009-12-21T20:41:00.000-08:00

Well, let's start by saying there really isn't such a thing as a "hard mouth". Some horses do, however, become unresponsive for various reasons, normally caused by things as simple as the rider constantly pulling on his mouth while riding.

Pulling and hanging on the reins creates a horse that will lean on you and ultimately begin ignoring more subtle bit cues or even ignoring the bit (and rider) altogether. A mantra of mine during lessons, don't get into a pulling contest with your horse, you will not win. With that in mind, why would you even try?

More often that not, an owner or rider's answer to dealing with the issue is to put an ever increasingly severe bit in the horse's mouth. Unfortunately, that is never the correct answer and only serves to reinforce his aversion to the bit, often leading to a far worse problem than you had in the first place.

Sometimes an owner will bring a horse to me where the major complaint is the horse being difficult to control because he fails to respond to the bit. Your stereotypical hard mouthed horse. Since control really never is the issue, it's important to make sure the horse has the raw foundation of training and I spend a little time reinforcing those early steps. So, I go back to the basics and concentrate on a lot of lateral work, coupled with staying out of the horse's mouth.

Now, it does indeed depend on why the horse is "hard" to begin with, be it simply an issue of helping the horse understand that no one is going to pull on his mouth, a lack of training or whatever else may have caused him to shut down and refuse to respond. I want the horse to tell me how to proceed. Let's assume the horse is just shutting down and tuning his rider out.

If possible, I prefer to use a round pen because it gives me more of an opportunity to let the horse learn to carry himself instead of relying on the bit. I firmly believe in the concept of one rein stops, teaching them is important in getting the horse more soft. Also, using almost exclusively seat and leg cues along with a shifting of weight is imperative in helping the horse to learn the process of becoming "weaned" off his dependence on the bit.

With some horses, they'll 'get it' fairly quickly. Others take more time. One important factor to remember is any time you take hold of the horse's mouth, there must be a good, solid reason (as opposed to grabbing for control or picking at the horse) and you need to follow through with release so the horse begins to comprehend you're not going to be yanking or hanging on him like before.

All that said, I do expect and allow some horses (depending on the discipline) to work on the bit with contact. How can that be accomplished with a horse who's had a "hard mouth" issue? By offering release whenever possible. It's really as simple as that.

~SFTS

Executing A Business Plan For The Horse Industry ~ A Step-By-Step Blueprint

2009-12-20T10:06:00.000-08:00

How many people do you know who would consider opening a craft store, or a car dealership, or even a real estate office without fully researching their potential market and coming up with a comprehensive business plan to present to investors (or the bank) before actually getting started? My guess is not many.

So why is it that a majority of folks who decide to jump into the horse industry head first choose to do so with virtually no planning whatsoever? If for no other reason than to give yourself an idea of what your expected income can (or should) be and how much capital it takes to really set yourself up for success, here are a few guidelines, some handy tips and what you should be thinking about before you get your feet wet.

First, you need to have an idea about what service(s) you will be offering to the public and be able to commit an overview to paper. Are you interested in boarding horses for others, developing a breeding program or offering training and lessons? Some combination or all or some of the above? If operating a facility that boards horses for the general public, are you interested in hiring a trainer or instructor? Come up with a thorough description of your business and highlight what you have to offer.

Another consideration you need to give some thought to is who your competition will be and how what you can or will provide excels over and above them. Do you have the ability to offer something others do not? Examples of this would be a covered or indoor arena when no other facility can boast such amenities, or enclosed wash stalls with hot running water, for instance. Also, is there a special niche you can fill that no one else in your area can claim? While these are not mandatory in order to begin operation, they can assist in leading you toward success.

Next will be how to market you business, and in the 21st Century you'll need to take a multi-faceted approach. Combining print advertising with the internet can gain your business maximum exposure, though this brings up one of my major peeves. Good advertising sources, on whole, ARE NOT FREE. That's a major problem with a variety of online outlets, there is no one to edit and send you blueline proofs of your copy.

It's all about you, so making 100% sure everything you post (every ad, any video captions, all website content, etc) is proof read for spelling, punctuation and grammatical errors is a must. In addition to a professional looking website and any additional web-based advertising you do (I recommend avoiding Craigslist...), be sure to have advertisements in print. Local newspapers, local and regionally based equestrian publications and even flyers at nearby feed and/or tack stores will be sure to garner you clientele if you have something worthwhile to offer.

Here is another thing to remember ~ word of mouth is always the very best form of advertising. 99.9% of my clients over the past ten years have been through word of mouth, even though we do regularly advertise (though not on a large scale). Your reputation is golden, treat it that way. No doubt, you will encounter those who dislike you and will seek to tarnish the reputation of your business for whatever reason, be it because you said something they perceived as wrong, because of personal or professional jealousy or any of a myriad of other rationales, however it is important to try your hardest to rise above it. You may slip up and fail to do so every once in a while. Pick yourself up, dust yourself off and go on about your business. Only YOU know who YOU are, and hopefully your clients or potential clients know you well enough to see through those who seek to damage you. Having been there (and anyone who has been in this industry for any length of time has a similar story), you can prevail!

Then you will have to address the ever-important issue of operations; plus who is in charge of each business related task and how you will go about hiring staff. Let's examine a basic boarding facility with resident trainers and instructors. A ranch or farm manager will oversee all areas and handle dealing with client complaints related to the facility itself. For additional tips, please refer to my previous installment about good barn management. All of that information should be integrated into any business plan. On complaints ~ believe me, you will have them. But you must make sure whoever you hire to be in charge of such dealings is competent and diplomatic in the utmost.

Your barn manager should be ordering feed, bedding and any of a number of other necessities. You will also need employees to feed the horses, clean the stalls and make sure there's clean, fresh water for all resident equines. Also necessary will be someone in charge of landscaping, maintenance and repairs. Then you'll need to determine if any trainers and/or riding instructors will be direct employees or independent contractors running their own business yet operating out of your farm. There are benefits and drawbacks to each approach.

Which leads us to insurance, a topic in of itself that I'll be covering in the future. Having adequate coverage is a must, including a care, custody and control policy for facilities where horses are boarded; major medical, surgical and mortality insurance for your bloodstock in a breeding operation; as well as trainers and/or riding instructors liability policies for any staff or outside businesses ~ all with an aggregate limit of not less than $1 million with you named as an additional insured for independent contractors ~ in addition to your basic farm or ranch coverage and homeowner's insurance.

Be sure to have financial data, income projections, capital outlay and expense information charted out, plus any supporting documentation that you are actively involved in organizations related to your endeavor and have the background to prove how well versed you are in the industry. These will be crucial if you seek outside investors or financing of any kind. Also, watch for an upcoming installment regarding horses, equine-related businesses and the IRS for more information as well.

Finally, know your limits and know when to consult others or ask for advice. There's certainly no shame in doing so! Best of luck, 'cause you'll need it!

~SFTS

Dealing With Dangers On The Trail

2009-12-19T11:04:00.000-08:00

First I want to mention how much fun today is going to be. My daughter and I were invited, along with some very good friends, to go Christmas Caroling on Horseback over at Mustang-Spirit Rescue here in Pinon Hills. It should be a blast! There is a potluck lunch first starting at 2 pm, then we'll ride out at 4 pm and spend the next two hours riding the neighborhood singing! We can't wait. Nothing like spending quality time with good friends, fellow horse lovers and our beloved mounts. :)

Now on to the post...

How many of you as a matter of routine take off down the trail alone, just you and your horse? Did you ever stop to think about what could happen if you encountered any number of dangerous situations out there? Alone? Possibly injured? Particularly if your horse is not a seasoned trail mount, or if you are not familiar with whatever area(s) you'll be riding in, you could have a great deal to be worried about.

Maybe you don't ride out in the wilderness, and perhaps you're under the impression that there really isn't anything to worry about just hacking around the neighborhood, but you couldn't be more wrong. All it takes is one of the many dangers to present itself and your life could change forever. Personally I would rather be riding in the wilderness, or open Desert (the most often location in my case), because there is less of a chance I'll encounter dogs, dirt bikes/quads or other potential dangers.

Lets create a scenario: You saddle your horse, who's relatively fresh after sitting for a few days during a spell of bad weather, but decide against longeing him first. He doesn't usually need to be longed, does he? Down the driveway you ride, with your mount bouncing and jigging. No problem, right? Until some kid on a dirt bike blasts around the corner, spooking your horse who dumps you unceremoniously in the middle of the road. The guy's not stopping, either. Chances are he never knew what sort of havoc his sudden appearance wreaked.

Here's my policy on bikers ~ you can hear them when on a horse...they cannot hear you. Whenever I hear a bike in the distance that sounds like it's headed my way, I seek high ground if possible to draw attention to my presence, or at least make sure my horse and I are not on dedicated dirt bike trails (those known to be used by the bikes). Can we (bikes and horses) share? Sure. But if you notice evidence of regular use by dirt bikes on a wash, trail, right-of-way or any other roadway, beware. Keep in mind that you may need to stay off the trail for a bit until danger passes.

Another danger can be loose dogs, I deal with them all the time while out on our local trails. While this problem is worse in the neighborhood than it is in the "middle of nowhere" on a little used trail, some dogs can be downright dangerous and possibly harm your horse.

My landlady Tina and I were out trail riding recently, she had asked me to ride one of her beautiful mares, Katrina, because she has difficulty with her on a regular basis. For the entire ride, Katrina was absolutely perfect for me, my landlady was in awe she was so good. :) However, on the way home from our ride, a neighbor's large dog came out and not only charged at the mare I was mounted on, but began biting at her hocks. Had we not been able to show the dog an imposing presence by turning toward him and scaring him away, he might have been able to do some serious damage. Thankfully the mare was completely fine ~ that was not the first horse this particular dog had tried to go after.

Several years ago in the neighboring town of Hesperia over at the Mojave River (some 20-25 miles away on the far side of town) a horse was savagely attacked and literally dragged to the ground by two pit bulls. TWO dogs brought a large Quarter Horse gelding to the ground. Fortunately the owner/rider was able to chase the dogs off, but not before they did significant damage to his horse. That should be enough to frighten most anyone away from riding alone, even in populated areas.

Something else I regularly find out here are old barbed wire fences that were built long ago for cattle and the perimeter marking of properties. Most of them are not standing, but strands of barbed wire criss-cross various areas and unless you really keep a lookout for them, a horse could get badly tangled up. Over the years I've seen the ugly result of this, though thankfully I have never (knock on wood!!) been through that. Being careful will generally save your horse from that kind of grief.

Out here in the Desert we also have a wide variety of wildlife to look out for, from rabbits (especially the large Jackrabbits) that like to jump out from under a bush right in front of the horses spooking them, to snakes (mostly in the Summer, of course) ~ we have several varieties of rattler here ~ to coyotes, though they generally are solitary when you see them, and either run from the horses or try, often unsuccessfully, to remain unseen.

There are a variety of other hazards you'll potentially encounter depending on where you live and the time of year. Summertime hazards such as those above-mentioned snakes and other creepy-crawlies really are pretty easy to avoid, though monsoon season dangers like flash floods and the possibility of bogs or quicksand after a particularly heavy period of rain can create a complex set of problems. I have seen the result of horses running into boggy, swamp-like flood control basins, and it ain't pretty. Having had to assist in two such rescues, it really sinks in (no pun intended) what the power of mud and water can do. Then you have the Winter riding issues like more or worse mud, snow, ice and frigid wind (though in some nearby areas there can be wind year-round) that can blow things onto the trail which could potentially spook your horse or hurt you or your horse.

Any possible peril must be addressed and having a little bit of foresight (as in thinking about what might happen) can save your life. Riding a 1000+/- lb creature with a mind of it's own, especially when combined with both natural or man-made dangers, is often a recipe for disaster. That's why you might want to be like the Boy Scouts and be prepared!

Other than all that, have fun and I'll see you on the trail!!

~SFTS

The Meaning Of Friendship

2009-12-18T12:50:00.000-08:00

It's Fabulous Friday again! Today, our topic is going to be all about the meaning of friendship.

I have been lucky over the years to have made some very good, incredibly dear friends. Most of them are still very close friends, while others have moved away and then of course there are those whom the world has lost. Most of those who have moved or drifted away in some manner we still keep in touch with.

Today's post is dedicated to all of them.

This time of year generally is a time of reflection, looking back on our lives and how we not only bettered things for ourselves but how we affected the lives of those around us. With horse owners, we include our beloved horses in that equation.

Recently I have made so many new friends, from a vast swath of the horse industry: Fellow professional trainers, riding instructors, facility owners, folks involved in pretty much every aspect of the horse world. I am learning so much from so many of them, as their experience and expertise is so diverse.

Horses can bring so many people together just because we have something in common ~ our love of the horse. Having dedicated my life to them as a professional more than three decades ago, it still never ceases to astonish me how full my life is with amazing ad truly wonderful, caring people because of the horses I love so much.

That's all for today, back to yet another horse training related post! :)

~SFTS

Horses...And Coping In Today's Economy

2009-12-17T17:43:00.000-08:00

There is a lot of hurting that's going on out there. Just look around you and I guarantee you will come across someone who's life has been torn apart because of the current economic climate.

Frequently these problems are exacerbated for horse owners as people struggle through layoffs and foreclosures. One look through just about any newspaper's classified section and websites like Craigslist will reveal a horrifying truth ~ a vast majority of horses have zero worth these days.

So what's a body to do if you have a horse you just can't bear to part with and you're worried about his future if you do decide to try selling? There are a few options to think about, though for your horse's sake be proactive.

As long as you do your homework on any potential home, including personal research and ensuring a way to keep tabs on where your horse is if you allow a lessee to take him off your property, leasing is one way to maintain ownership while having someone else assume the costs of upkeep. A lease allows another party to keep and enjoy a horse without laying out the purchase price.

When negotiating leases, I always outline everything that the lessee can expect to pay for (board, feed, farrier, veterinary care, etc) and add to those costs an insurance policy with the lessor as the beneficiary. Standards of care are covered, allowable uses, locations where the horse can be kept and other caveats can also be included but make sure you have a binding contract IN WRITING to cover both you and your horse. One more tip is to clearly outline that surprise visits will happen, so the lessee should expect them at any time.

Another potential work-around would be to offer labor in exchange for board costs. While this won't help if your horse is at home, thinking about moving your horse to a stable and making such an offer can cut your costs exponentially. Good labor and hard workers who are reliable and capable is hard to find, believe me. Most barn owners are glad to discuss options, especially if they have plenty of satisfied paying customers.

Sadly, the fact is I don't see things getting better any time soon. Easing your own burden is often at the forefront of our thought process, which leads to the barrage of animals offloaded into rescue. This is why I so strongly advocate doing all that you can to support your local legitimate rescue groups. You can find out more about rescues in your area by searching online, calling local equine professionals and retailers as well as contacting the IRS for a listing of tax exempt 501(c)(3) organizations local to you.

One final note ~ this is the holiday season. Consider being nicer (and more charitable) to your fellow human beings as well as horses and other animals in need. There are more out there than ever.

~SFTS

Developing A Great Feeding Program For Your Horse

2009-12-16T20:15:00.000-08:00

Before I start with today's post, I wanted to mention that this entry marks the 100th post on Laying The Foundation. Wow! I began this blog to help my fellow equestrians, and five months later we are still going strong. Thank you so much to those of you who religiously read this blog ~ we average 50-60 regular readers per day, with about 85-90 individual visitors per day. Not bad for a little blog that's never really been advertised or promoted. Thank you as well to those of you who comment, making this such a wonderful and interesting place to communicate, and to all of you who email me about how much you enjoy the blog. You all warm my heart!! :)

Now, on to the topic at hand:

This is a subject that really has a great many "right" answers and actually, I have long said, ask 100 different folks about how best to develop a feeding program for horses, you will receive 100 different answers.

Over the years I have developed a feeding program designed to optimize each horse’s health, performance and attitude in the working and training environment by looking into the benefits of each feed product, doing a vast amount of research, attending seminars with some of the world's leading equine nutritionists and having had one of the most trusted people in the field do a feed nutrition analysis for me. Our program is based on that analysis, the above mentioned research and continued education in the field of equine nutrition. I also consult my vet on an annual (or as needed) basis and we go over each horse's diet. One product we have not yet integrated into our program, though we are looking into doing so and what it could replace is the Platinum Performance. Ramard, Inc also has some excellent products that we are looking into.

Getting on with it, for the basis of our program at morning and evening meals, we feed a #1 fine stemmed alfalfa hay that has a slight amount of bloom, which is suitable for 99% of the horses we care for. Some are substituted (or mixed) with oat hay, grass hays (Bermuda, Timothy, Orchard, Teff, Sudan, etc) or pellets (either . We do not feed cubes of any sort.

In pelleted feeds and packaged feeds, unless otherwise noted, we exclusively use Ace Hi®/Star Milling® and Nutrena/Farr® feeds.

Regarding pelleted feeds, we exclusively use the following: from Ace Hi®/Star Milling® their Alfalfa Hay Pellets, Alfalfa-Grain Pellets, Alfalfa-Oat Pellets or Alfalfa-Bermuda Pellets; from Mountain Sunrise® their Alfalfa-Timothy Pellets. For all horses who are on a diet of exclusively alfalfa hay, we use a mixture of Alfalfa-Bermuda and Alfalfa-Timothy pellets.

All show horses are fed at lunchtime the following mixture, in different amounts specific to the individual horse - Performance Plus 606™ (Ace Hi®), XTN™ (Nutrena/Farr®), Alfalfa & Molasses/A&M (Ace Hi®), Red Flaked Wheat Bran (Ace Hi®), Red Cell™ (Horse Health®), Corn Oil (Mazola®).

All horses are supplemented with Equi-Aid® Psyllium to help prevent sand colic due to our sand based Desert environment, Pro-Bios® Probiotics to enhance digestion and Electrolytes following lengthy or stressful workouts, or following/during horse show events. All horses are also supplemented with a high protein diet of rice bran and soybean meal pellets.

Horses of advanced age are supplemented with a mixture of Ace Hi® Equine Senior feed and Integrity Senior feed. Horses at weaning age through four years are supplemented with a mixture of Ace Hi® Equine Junior and Integrity Growth feed. Horses deemed “hard keepers” are supplemented with Horse Guard® Super Gain™, Nutrena® Empower™ or Farnam® Weight Builder™, depending on the needs of each individual horse.

Horses with less-than-desirable hoof and hair growth are supplemented with Biotin Plus™. Horses in demanding performance careers and/or with arthritis problems are supplemented with Four Flex® (MSM/Chondroitin/Glucosamine/Yucca) or Joint Combo® (MSM/Chondroitin/Glucosamine).

Broodmares are supplemented with Ace Hi® Mare and Foal (in lieu of Performance Plus 606™) and Farnam Mare Plus™ (in lieu of Red Cell™). Suckling and weanling foals are supplemented with Ace Hi® Mare and Foal (in lieu of Performance Plus 606™) and Farnam Grow Colt™ (in lieu of Red Cell™).

For certain indications dependent on the individual horse, the feed is soaked.

Additional indications or conditions may require additional feed supplements or changes to the horse’s diet. We closely monitor all horses on a daily basis to adjust feeding schedules as needed for the individual.

Basically, we have to understand what's best for our horses, take their work load and environment into consideration and develop a plan that meets their needs. Everyone really does have their own opinions, and that's fine, though I wholeheartedly recommend consulting with your veterinarian on a regular basis about your feeding program, too.

~SFTS

Hi-Ho Silver! Handling "Problem Horses"

2009-12-15T17:53:00.000-08:00

Here's a scenario that plays out every day in arenas and round pens across the country: Something frightens, upsets in some way or causes pain to a horse and the horse reacts negatively.

Let's face it, horses are just not wired like humans, they don't think like we do or process situations in a complex fashion the same way a person would. Though horses can become explosive, so to speak, and dangerous, such a thing really isn't an inherent quality in equines.

So, how do we label a horse as a "problem"? There are generally two types of problem horses, those with issues related to ground manners and those who we encounter trouble with when they're under saddle. Each must be dealt with differently and how you approach each horse's issues depends largely on the horse itself.

I approach ground work issues by maintaining a calm, cool demeanor and allowing the horse to have every opportunity to do the right thing (which should be true for any training issue). If he chooses not to, there must be consequences.

For instance, biting. One of the most dangerous behaviors in horses in my opinion, no one enjoys being bitten. Any horse who chooses to attempt to bite me (note the word "attempt") will be met with a sharp tap on the muzzle simultaneously with a firm verbal reprimand in the form of a loud "NO!". If consistent, this behavior will wane quickly, but consistency is the key. Never, ever allow your horse to bite. It's not funny, it's not cute and one day that horse will hurt you.

With horses that pull, rush or otherwise get pushy, giving such a horse room will allow him the opportunity to decide to stay out of my space. Should he choose otherwise, I will be ready to send hm backwards several steps to establish my "herd" position. He does not have a right to invade my space, ever. Previously I've covered leading, tying and trailer loading, so we'll move on to issues under saddle.

When saddled, the three most common bad behaviors, in order of severity, are rearing, bolting and bucking.

My aversion to the horse that rears is rather well founded: I'm not fond of being flipped over on. Period. But for most horses, it's either pain related or a learned behavior to get out of work, making the fixes relatively simple. The first step I'll take, of course, with a horse that habitually rears is to have a thorough vet check performed, paying special attention to the cervical spine and the back (including withers loin and hip), mouth and feet/legs.

If there is no physical reason for the horse to act out, we get back to work on prevention. There are a few simple rules for dealing with an obstinate rearer: Going forward and requesting lateral movement, disengaging the hindquarters, is the quickest means to bring a horse out of a rear. Don't grab hold of his face, lean forward and encourage the horse to move. Getting off is NOT an option. If you have ever dealt with a horse who has successfully unseated a rider in this manner, you'll agree.

Fear is a whole different matter, though I don't necessarily consider a fearful horse a problem horse. Generally, once the horse comes to understand that he's going to be sent forward and rearing isn't getting him out of work, the behavior will cease.

Next on my list is the serial bolter. While not quite as high on the danger scale in an enclosed space (round pen, arena, fenced field, etc) as a horse who rears, things can go wrong in a hurry when you're out on the trail and your horse decides he's leaving. Taking off isn't such a big deal to correct if the behavior occurs anywhere he's ridden ~ in other words, if you can abate the problem in an arena or round pen. It's the horse that only bolts with you intermittently on the trail that is the real troublemaker.

When dealing with a runaway, the absolute worst thing you can do is panic. Unless something horribly dangerous is imminent, stay with the horse and ride it out. If the sequence tends to start with a spook, go back to ground training and work on both fear and stand-your-ground issues (otherwise commonly known as "spook in place" training). Your first step should be to reassure the horse and make him face that fear. Be it a wind blown tarp, a barking dog, scary dark trash can or even that odd looking rock near the arena gate, he has to understand it isn't going to harm him and he need not try to get away from it. He can be afraid but must stand his ground. Once he's mastered that, get back on and put those same principles to use from the saddle.

Something I cannot stress enough is how important your "Whoa!" command must be in your training at ALL times. If the horse tenses up and begins to exhibit behavior which leads you to believe he's getting ready to run, remain neutral and ask him to halt. That word means freeze and don't move until you are told. NO questions asked.

If he's the to take off without warning, working through the problem can be more of a challenge because it's next to impossible for you to feel it coming. Be sure he's not grabbing the bit between his teeth (if he does, bump him to dislodge it while distracting him with your weight, seat and legs), rock back and begin a circle in a safe location out on the trail ~ in the arena, it's easy. Send him forward fairly hard, but control the direction and speed. Be consistent, just as with any training issue. Eventually he'll overcome whatever fear he has or there will be zero fun in trying to get away with the naughty behavior.

Last we'll address bucking, though 99% of the time it's not as huge of an issue as the previous two topics. Most horses cannot buck without being able to get their heads down, and a majority of horses really don't give more than a half-hearted crow hop (which definitely can unseat an unsuspecting or unbalanced rider) when under saddle.

Just because a horse does buck when turned loose to play or does so on the longeline doesn't necessarily mean he's going to try tossing his rider. I'm not fond of allowing a horse to buck when it's time to work, so a reprimand is in order at that time ~ every time.

Now, what to do with the horse who habitually tries to unseat you? For starters, don't let him get that poll below his withers. If you do, he's got the leverage to really let loose and you've already lost much of your ability to prevent the buck. For the "playful" buckers, I'll stick a sidecheck on them and soon it's too much of an effort to fight against it. Gradually you work such a horse for longer periods of time without the sidecheck and soon you can remove it altogether.

But, if bucking is a more serious endeavor for the horse and is accompanied by attempting to twist or rear, I'll throw the horse (figuratively speaking, of course) into the tightest circle he can maintain while staying in a trot or canter, always continuing to maintain forward impulsion and not allowing the horse's head to drop below my hands. That part is important.

Forward = lacking the ability to rear...head not allowed to get lower = lacking the ability to buck, unless he's a contortionist. Most are not, so as long as you follow those rules you should be just fine.

Remember, any issue you do not feel confident enough to resolve on your own should be handed over to a skilled and competent professional trainer. There is nothing wrong with enlisting help, especially when in the end it's likely to mean the difference between you getting hurt or your horse overcoming his issues.

~SFTS

Something None Of Us Want To Think About...

2009-12-14T23:09:00.000-08:00

...and something that is very necessary. That's what today's post is all about. I'll explain, but read on.

Well, someone finally got around to it. Making and seeking to maintain a website based "Blacklist" for the horse industry. My impression? It's about damn time! Unfortunately, due to our litigious society, they were forced to cease publication relatively quickly due to pressure from the targets of their listings. I cannot say I'm surprised, though I find it a tragedy.

I've spoken with the folks who started "The Official Equestrian Blacklist" website back in 2008, and it seems they started this project with the best of intentions. Trouble is (or was, as it were), the inherent nature of the equine world's bad seeds lends itself to a great deal of hassle when bringing their actions to light.

Why, might you ask, does the world need an equestrian blacklist? Your answer is pretty simple ~ there are just too many crazy people, scam artists, abusers, frauds and worse in this business. Not only that, they also tarnish the image of the industry and damage those professionals and others engaged in horse-related endeavors who are honest, as well as those who do not conform to their twisted sense of 'ideals'.

I love my profession and deeply appreciate the vest majority of my peers. We deserve to have our reputations protected while making sure people are alerted to who they should stay away from, though the source must be unequivocally above reproach.

My hope is that one day someone else, with zero ties to the industry so as to be completely impartial, and with an unimpeachable character will offer us a seal of approval of sorts with a means to instigate investigation of the less than savory individuals, making those findings public.

Truly this would be of benefit to we, the professional trainers and others involved in the industry, as well as to our clientele and it can certainly boost public confidence in the industry as a whole.

On a similar note, I also wanted to touch on legal issues which can affect both horse owners and equine professionals alike.

Unfortunately, due to a very strong trial lawyer's lobby in the great state of California, we still have no Equine Limited Liability law protecting those who own or make our living with horses, many years after efforts were first undertaken to try changing that. This translates to higher insurance premiums and no guarantee that we cannot be devastated by costly frivolous legal action against us.

How can you do your best to protect yourself? First, supervision at all times when anyone (and I do mean anyone, from your best friend to your neighbor's daughter, to your boss and his nephew ~ but most assuredly clients, students and the general public for professional trainers and facility owners) interacts with your horses.

Second, signage. Having simple signs that state the danger of horses (and what can happen) posted, as well as disclaimers of non-responsibility if someone does something which results in an injury to themselves might not necessarily prevent any lawsuits, however, they can show that people visiting your facility were sufficiently warned about those potential dangers.

For professionals, well written contracts are also a must, but remember to be sure you have the correct verbiage included, so run them by an attorney experienced in the field of equine law prior to incorporating them into your business. Here in California, there is no guarantee that you will not be sued if Little Suzy gets bucked off one of your horses, even with an agreement in writing signed by Suzy's mother, though you stand a far better chance of being able to defend yourself in court under such circumstances.

Another important consideration for riding instructors is insuring that all equipment used on your lesson horses is in tip-top shape, so regularly check, repair and/or replace anything that's worn or broken. Yes, leather repair can get pricey and new tack is expensive these days, but so is defending yourself against a lawsuit which arises out of a preventable accident caused by a tack failure such as a frayed girth or a broken buckle on a bridle.

Then we get to helmets; my rule is ALL minors wear them, at ALL times when mounted. Period, no exceptions. Adults have the option of using a helmet if they so desire (which is written into my contracts), but they can opt out. Not so with the kids, it's the law and you are bound to follow it.

What about if your horse gets loose, runs into the neighbor's yard and tears up a fence or causes other damage? Well, that is what homeowners insurance coverage is for, right? Okay, this one goes under the heading of prevention. There is plenty you can do. Check and double check your stall latches and gate chains. Make sure your property is fenced sufficiently to keep your horses in and unwanted critters out.

Bottom line, make sure you cover your bases and provide yourself with as much protection as possible.

~SFTS

Hip Hip Hooray!!

2009-12-14T22:20:00.000-08:00

Just wanted to put up a brief post about what's been going on in the equestrian community locally and update our area readers. Then we'll get to the heart of tonight's subject matter in a whole other post. As to the title of this post? Things are moving and shaking in the Tri Community (Phelan, Pinon Hills, Wrightwood)! That's not a bad thing, it doesn't have a bit to do with the earthquake fault our lovely community sits on. ;)

On Sunday our local horsemens association, Tri Community Corral (soon to be ETI Corral 88 pending final approval), held a get together celebrating the National Day of the Horse ~ designated by Congress as December 13th ~ and elected our 2010 board of directors. I have been named President for the upcoming year and wish to send out many thanks for all the faith shown in me by this incredible group of equestrians. We have many events in the works, including trail rides and a high point horse show series among other things. The club's new website is Tri Community Corral.

Tonight, a large group of us in the local equestrian community attended a meeting of the Phelan Pinon Hills Community Services District Citizens Advisory Committee on Parks to discuss the planning and development of a brand new 80 acre park in Phelan. I was asked to be on the Equestrian Subcommittee and graciously accepted. It is an honor to be able to represent our vibrant equestrian community and work alongside the amazing, dedicated folks who are working so hard to make this park a reality for our community.

I want to issue a heartfelt thank you to everyone who has expressed such faith in me. I will definitely make you all proud! :)

~SFTS

Finding Stability: Practicing Good Barn Management

2009-12-13T18:08:00.000-08:00

Here is a subject that causes much discomfiture for many horse owners, both those who board their horses out and folks lucky enough to keep their horses at home. If you have horses, they are going to be stabled somewhere. Therefore, it's in your best interest to have a complete understanding of what it takes to care for them correctly.

Lets say you are fortunate and don't have to go any further than out your front door to visit with your favorite equine. There are just a few basic "must's" here ~ water, feed, shelter and exercise.

Water is a given and making sure it is plentiful and available in a clean receptacle is of utmost importance. My water barrels and waterers are cleaned twice per week, rain or shine. In the Wintertime, ensuring pipes are not frozen and that you remove any ice formed on top of the water container is mandatory, too.

Having a feeding program to optimize your horse's well being is also paramount. The right balance of protein, fat and carbohydrates for your horse will largely depend on his job, remember to balance your forage and your grains. I recommend talking to your vet to find out what he or she suggests.

One of the most expensive parts of providing for your horse is the shelter aspect, which can be as simple as a roof to block the sun and rain in any type of paddock or pasture, or as complex as a barn with box stalls. Keep in mind that in addition to the structure itself is making sure where your horse lives is clean!

Last will be plenty of exercise in the form of being ridden, another form of what we call "forced exercise" (meaning longed, free longed, worked in longlines, even walked, either by hand or on a mechanical hotwalker) or just turned out in an arena, a large paddock or a pasture.

Now here's the nitty gritty: My list of what it takes to be a good facility owner and barn manager. Sometimes, they are one and the same. Frequently, however, they are not. Here we go...

Knowledge. Nothing is a substitute for knowing about horses, having a basic understanding of equine health and nutrition, understanding horse behavior and having a tangible grasp of basic first aid. If you know little to nothing about horses (or worse, pretend that you do, thus making yourself look like a fool to any potential boarder), you have NO business in charge of any facility where people pay to keep their horses. I have encountered this on a number of occasions before, and it's not pretty.

People skills. There is a great deal to be said for being able to communicate intelligently and rationally with your customers. It never ceases to amaze me when I encounter folks in a position of authority, especially one where they must interact with the public on a daily basis, who utterly lack the ability to be diplomatic and look for the most constructive means of dealing with a complaint or other issue. Please do not put your mentally ill friend or your relative who's a convicted child molester in charge of your business! Such a thing ranks right up there with barn owners I have come across who lack any substantial knowledge of equids and who insist that there's nothing wrong with feeding moldy hay to the old broodmares just because they are too cheap to toss it into the trash bin. Ugh!

Professionalism. Always, always be courteous and professional when dealing with your customers (and potential customers). Anything less is entirely unacceptable and any savvy horse owner is going to shy away from dealing with you no matter how 'convenient' your facility may be. Under this heading would fall dealings with those who provide a professional service to your clientele, too, such as trainers, farriers and veterinarians.

Always provide the highest quality feed or bedding available, always make sure the stalls and paddocks are cleaned at least once per day (here it is twice daily), counsel your staff in how to deal with the public, DON'T hire your children or the neighbor kids to work for you and stay away from relaxing the rules for anyone, not even "just this one time...".

There you have it, straight from the (ahem) horse's mouth.

~SFTS

It Was A Very Good Year!!

2009-12-12T15:24:00.000-08:00

Today marked the 2009 Sun Country Horsemens Association awards banquet. It was a fabulous event hosted by a wonderful club and filled with great people. :)

Our clients Kathy Brown and her family were on hand with us to pick up the Year End High Point Championship for Melodys Ravishing Luna in the Late Foals of 2008 division as well as Luna's Year End High Point Reserve Championship in Arabian & Half-Arabian Halter. We've got pictures that will be on our website soon of the proud owners and their beautiful belt buckles!

It was truly my pleasure to handle and exhibit this beautiful filly for them all year and we look forward to next year.

This club is dedicated to our equestrian community and supporting us all ~ they also honored all of us trainers who have supported this club, by naming "Trainers of the Year" and I felt so blessed to have been awarded a custom bridle bag and a lovely new halter and lead.

I want to issue a heartfelt thank you to Nancy Payne and the entire SCHA group for trudging forward and with the demise of Hesperia Horsemen working hard to maintain a high point show series. Also, to Cheryl Padilla at who's beautiful facility, Hidden River Ranch, the shows have been held. All of you are so greatly appreciated and hopefully you know this!!

Next year we're shooting for a whole lot more awards, including the drop dead gorgeous Western show saddle that was awarded to the overall high point winner of the year. ;)

~SFTS

Are You And Your Horse A Good Match?

2009-12-11T21:29:00.000-08:00

Some of us just know that we're well matched with our horses. It's perhaps just an innate feeling we have when we ride, but it's definitely there. How can you tell, though?

Well, for starters, you need to know what you're interested in doing with your horse, and that horse must be capable of accomplishing those tasks. If you wanted a nice Western horse but your mount prefers to move out in a more extended gait or at a faster pace than you think is necessary, there is a good chance you aren't going to be compatible.

Ensuring that your horse is a good match for you begins well before the purchase transaction. Any time I embark on a search for the perfect horse for a client, we will sit down and have a thorough discussion about wants, needs, likes, dislikes and goals. Without having an idea about what they are truly looking form I'd be searching blind. Also, often during those talks there will be an epiphany of sorts related to what the client thought they wanted and what would really suit them. It is truly disheartening bordering on devastating when you've already invested in a horse and then you find out the horse is all wrong for you.

You know that saying about different strokes being for different folks? In the horse world, it's true, too. Some people like 'stock' breed Halter horses, some prefer gaited horses for a nice easy ride on the trail, some folks want a Thoroughbred or a Warmblood because they seek to excel in the Dressage or Hunter/Jumper world, some love a flashy Arabian Saddleseat horse. What does this have to do with being a good match with your horse? Simple: It has everything to do with being happy with the horse you've chosen.

On a daily basis I see people who are not well suited to their own horses, yet they fail to realize it. My personal barometer of how perfectly matched a complimentary horse and rider are to each other encompasses several criteria. One, are they happy to see each other? Two, does the owner consider any task related to the horse a chore rather than a joy? Three, are both parties pleased and satisfied at the en of a ride, with a sense of accomplishment as opposed to frustration? Is the answer to any of these questions is no, Houston, there may me a problem.

Take into consideration how much time you have to devote to your horse and how you feel about that. If you can't wait to get home from a long day at the office, or a weekend home from university, just because it means you get to see and enjoy the love of your life (and I don't mean your significant other of the human persuasion) chances are the two of you are a match made in Heaven.

It's a fact – well matched horses and their riders are far happier than the alternative. Here's another saying that might be appropriate: You can't squeeze blood out of a turnip! If you just don't have that unbreakable bond with your horse, it may be time to think about finding a replacement (after you locate the ideal home for your present horse, of course). Somewhere, out there, will be the perfect match for him, too!

~SFTS

Here We Go Again...

2009-12-10T08:24:00.000-08:00

Yes, it's another post on show ring tips and tricks. :) There is just a lot to cover on this topic, so here we go!

Picking up where we left off, you will find that there is SO MUCH you don’t know or think about when readying yourself and your horse for a show, which is the purpose of this little learning exercise.

A few tips on ring etiquette:

When you are asked to back your horse, don't forget to check behind you...the same goes for the reverse. Many judges appreciate this and doing so will sometimes give you a leg up on your fellow competitors.

Try to be sure your horse's performance is consistent. You can have a horse that isn't quite as pretty or talented and still place well if you have consistency in your rides.

Please, PLEASE do not train your horse (or allow him/her to be trained) in a manner inconsistent with what is correct. There are tons of "trends" and fads in the horse show world, but there is no substitute for a well trained, correct moving, mannerly horse that moves properly with good self carriage. Quality of your gaits is essential.

Don't fall for trends and the judge wont care if your turn-out isn't perfect as long as it is respectful and your horse looks nice. Spend as much time as you can grooming, conditioning and schooling your horse (within reason ~ don't overschool) at home and it will pay off!

Be sure you are showing your horse from the moment you set hoof in that arena until you leave the ring at the end of your class, no matter how bad of a ride you had. That one is imperative! Even if you are waiting for the previous class to be pinned and your class is lined up awaiting instruction, or you're lined up at the conclusion of your class. You are STILL in the show ring, act like you belong there.

Definitely be ready to enter the ring when your class is called. Nothing is more aggravating than being in your class, ready to rock and having to wait for some slowpoke to show up. There is a two minute gate call for a reason! Also, nothing peeves off a parent like paying for classes their children miss because they were not listening or goofing off instead of getting in the ring.

Remember that the warm-up ring at many shows can be chaos. Be prepared for horses to go blowing by you in various directions, horses running up on your horse's tail and horses cutting you off. Too many riders, including trainers, do not pay attention to where they are going during warm-up! Additionally there are sometimes those exhibitors who will purposefully and deliberately try to blow your ride ~ this goes for in the show ring during classes as well as in the warm-up pen. I personally have had this happen, you simply have to ignore it (sometimes you can take it as a compliment, that you're tough competition and they would rather take you out than compete against you). Don't allow it to bother you, because if it does, it will bother your horse.

Only YOU are responsible for your horse...no one else. Keep that in mind at every show, during every class. In the show ring, no matter your discipline, show your strengths and hide your weaknesses. At least, try to. ;)

Many riders will try to correct problems with their horses behind the judge's back. I have news for you! Perhaps they can't see what's happening when their backs are turned, but they CAN hear it. It's all good to know where your judge is (as well as the horses around you), but continually glancing around the ring to see if the judge is looking at you is a big no-no in my book. Some folks advocate doing so ~ I do not. Checking over your shoulder on occasion is fine. Making a small correction to your horse when you think the judge is watching someone else is okay, too, as long as it is minor and quickly accomplished. You don't want to allow your horse to get away with bad behavior, but there is a difference between major discipline in the show ring and a little bump here or a little tap there.

Along those same lines, make sure your horse is ready at home BEFORE you take him to a horse show. Train your horse! To be sure, you can never know 100% how a horse will react the first time at a show, and your horse may be perfect in your home arena. Horse shows are not the time to be trying new things and you should not need to have a major knock-down, drag out fight with your horse at a show.

Some horses have fear issues, but a confident rider can overcome them in most cases. A number of horses are afraid of being handed a ribbon, some hate the loudspeakers, others spook at a camera's flashbulb. I have ridden in many arenas where the show committee will place sponsor banners or signs on the arena rails and I have had horses that hated another horse passing close by or running up behind them - ALL of these things can be scary to some horses. Get them used to things like that at home and they won't be such an issue when you get to the showgrounds. Set up situations in a controlled setting where you are in charge and let your horse learn to deal with them at the horse's own pace.

Try not to punish your horse if he's truly afraid. Scared horses are not safe horses, however I've had the best luck in trying to work them through whatever they're frightened of as long as we end on a good note, just like at home. If your horse is just plain out of control and you cannot get him in hand, scratch your classes. Better to waste a few dollars on class fees than have a bad wreck or worse, wreck someone else. Along those lines, if a rider is unseated, halt your horse. Some say to dismount, I would rather you stay on your horse, it's usually a safer place to be. Consequently, if you come off your horse during a class, it's preferable that you ask to remain in the ring, because you don't want your horse learning that they can get out of working in a class by tossing you! Inevitably they will try it again.

Many times judges will pick their favorites and even start placing their classes (especially if they're rather large) from the moment you set foot in the ring, so make your entrance count! Set your horse up so you can easily head through the gate and down the rail giving the judge a great first impression.

Remember: Impulsion, impulsion, impulsion. In English classes, your judges will appreciate a horse with good forward gaits. Likewise, if you have a Western horse, keep in mind that you want your horse to show proper collection, not just a lethargic stroll down the rail or that horrid looking "crippled shuffle" with the hip moved over toward the center of the ring. Yuck!

Take the time to give your horse a pat after the cards are turned in while you're in the lineup, and as you're exiting the ring. You will leave the impression that you're really thrilled with the ride your horse gave you (even if the truth is, not so much) and that you have respect for your horse as your riding partner. It looks professional and like you care. Every little thing can count, good judges will take notice.

Drugs ARE NOT FOR THE SHOW RING! Things like Bute have their place, but don't come to a show with an entire pharmacy. More than likely you will be caught and nothing good can come of that.

Don't forget to school your horse at the walk as much as the rest of your gaits. It never ceases to amaze me that even trainers will not concentrate on the walk! Walking accounts for 25%-33% of most classes - don't skimp. Also, refrain from allowing your horse to dawdle, wander or gawk around ignoring you, the rider. Performing a good walk can mean the difference between bringing home a ribbon and getting the gate.

There is no prize for rushing into the ring as the gateman is closing that gate. Be prepared and have your horse ready to perform. I prefer to get in there early, even though I don't like being the first one in...unless I know my horse is going to knock the judge's socks off and I want to be the first one he sets his eyes on. Be prepared long before the class is called to order and ready to ask your horse to move off in whatever gait is asked for.

When the announcer calls you to the lineup - LINE UP! Be prompt, don't continue around the arena for another five minutes just to show off. Making that last pass down the rail in front of the judge is okay, but don't make a scene. You don't want to make a spectacle of yourself. For myself, I like to get a spot on the end of the line, because you have a 50% less chance of running into a problem with backing. Many horses do not back straight (which is something else you need to work on at home before you ever think about going to a show) and if the horse next to you backs crooked, you run the risk of your horse moving into him.

Most important of all, relax, and DON'T forget to breathe! I have had students that rode out of the ring out of breath. While this can happen under normal circumstances in some classes (Over Fences events are notorious for this, as is the English Show Hack division at an Arabian show!), this is not something you expect with a Walk/Trotter coming out of a four horse Equitation class. I've also had some kids exit a class and mention that the judge told them to breathe. Sometimes we need little reminders. This is one of those times! Anything you can do to calm yourself, which will in turn help keep your horse calm, will do wonders for your performances. A lot of kids like to listen to their I-pods or other mp3 players. Which is fine as long as they don't miss their classes!

I'll continue this again later on, finishing up with some tips on how to handle yourself as an exhibitor and the parent of a child who shows. Meanwhile, enjoy immersing yourself in the wonderful world of preparing to go show!

~SFTS

Arabian Scoring System

2009-12-09T07:02:00.000-08:00

This is one of the first "editorials" I wrote about a year and a half ago, though I know quite a bit of what I write could all into that category...sort of. ;) This is an updated version. Anyhow, without further adieu, a topic that became the hot discussion subject online in the Arabian show horse world: Scored Halter classes.

One of my major pet peeves for many years has been the trend we have seen on a continuing metamorphosis to emphasize how well a horse shows as opposed to judging them on their actual structure, conformation and movement, which is of course what we’re actually supposed to be judging Halter (in the Arabian breed what we call Breeding or Gelding In Hand) classes on. Right?

However, it became a question of when you bring a spectacular specimen into the Halter ring at an Arabian horse show and the horse just stands there refusing to “show”, you’re not going to do well, particularly at the higher level shows, no matter how nice your horse is. You could lead as perfect a horse as possible with spectacular movement, but no show, no ribbon.

Okay, I get it that we’re talking about a “horse show” here, and I love a well trained and shown horse as much as the next person, but honestly, it should never be more important to have your horse trained to tighten up, stretch his neck and act like he’s scared to death of you than how well he is put together and can move. Other breeds don’t need that, not even the breeds who are exhibited similarly such as Saddlebreds, Andalusians and Morgans. Why us?

Back in October of 2006 a resolution was brought forth at the annual AHA Convention to implement a means of scoring our Halter classes based on certain attributes of the horse, including movement, as opposed to continuing on with the status quo. Implementation was delayed, however, because a segment of the Halter industry (trainers and owners) were against it and wanted to be given an opportunity to formulate a means by which to rescind the earlier resolution.

By the 2007 AHA Convention, the Arabian Horse Association of Arizona (sponsoring club of the annual Scottsdale show) came up with a resolution to rescind the use of our new scorecard or at least make it’s use optional at the discretion of the show committees and judges. Fortunately, that resolution was soundly defeated and the new rules were set to take effect as of April 1, 2008. Many of us felt, it‘s about time!! Another assault on the scorecard was brought forward at the 2008 Convention which was resoundingly defeated (the same just happened again at the 2009 Convention in Reno last month, again defeated almost unanimously).

Here's the lowdown: There are seven areas where our horses are now judged in the Breeding and In Hand division classes, which are 1) Arabian Type; 2) Quality, Balance, Substance at the Walk; 3) Legs and Feet; 4) Head; 5) Neck and Shoulder; 6) Back, Loin and Hip and 7) Movement. In each category, there are 20 points possible per horse. A score of 1-6 per category is considered below average, a score of 7-13 is considered average, a score of 14-17 is considered good and a score of 18-20 is considered excellent. Your highest total possible score is 140 (for each judge).

Additionally, judges can assess penalty point deductions (from -1 to -5 points) for things like poor manners, undue stress, inhumane treatment, excessive use of the whip, a horse that appears intimidated by it’s handler or excessive grease/oil on the horse.

Now, keeping in mind that under a scored Halter system horses are being judged against the breed standard as opposed to against each other, the option also exists to have the horses come in the ring for judging one at a time like we do in Sport Horse In Hand classes, as opposed to them all being in the ring together where they can be comparatively judged. Personally, I love that idea and AHA has chosen the “exit the ring procedure” option for US Nationals in October these last two years, which has been fabulous!! Those classes have been beautiful, far less stressful than the traditional Nationals Halter classes and a whole lot less intimidation of the horses. Hopefully we can eventually get all shows required to run their Halter classes in this manner.

Now, looking back when we were only one month into the new Arabian Scoring System there were already unhappy exhibitors with judges seeming to give either far too low scores for the quality of horses or unrealistically high scores to some horses, as well as those who appeared to be judging horses against each other (with scores reflecting that by uniformity across the board, rather than judging each individual attribute of each horse) instead of against the breed standard.

Remember, these scores are to be given based on each horse against the entire pool of Arabian horses in the nation, not just against those sharing the show ring. Therefore, you would hypothetically expect those horses, real show horses, to be consistently in the above average, or good, category. In the early going here, that didn’t necessarily seem to be happening, though it has gotten better over these past 20 months.

Were some judges gaming the scorecard? Indeed it would appear so and some sadly still are. I have friends who have shown under this system who had their horses low-balled by a few different judges ~ there is NEVER any reason for that. Some folks made a decision not to compete with their horses at AHA approved shows in Halter classes until the mess gets straightened out...and then there's the case of the annual Scottsdale show, which has chosen this year (and next for 2010 as well) to not use the Scoring System. Those classes are of course not qualifying classes for either the Region 7 Championships or any of the National shows, but of course most folks who show Halter at Scottsdale go for the promotion of sales and breedings. If you want to qualify, you go to another show or another Region.

It remains somewhat of a "wait and see" as far as the scorecard goes, and there is still a great deal of funny business going on, but it is a step in the right direction. We're keeping our collective fingers crossed because, as we all know, nothing worthwhile is ever easy to achieve!

~SFTS

A Horsemen’s How-To on Hoof Care ~ Part II

2009-12-08T08:46:00.000-08:00

There are probably equally as many shoeing techniques are there are farriers, and there are some extremely skilled farriers out there (formerly known as blacksmiths). But there are also some shoers I wouldn’t let touch my horses, and unfortunately I’ve used a couple of them in the past.

One notable example was hired when we first moved to the Desert area after having been recommended by a local feed store owner. I explained exactly what I wanted and what my expectations were, with specific instructions on how and what to do. I am an owner who prefers to be there when my horses are worked on, particularly with a new farrier, however this guy was only available the week I needed him to show up while I was not home. He had four horses to do, two regular shoeings and two trims. Both horses that needed shoes got them, and the job he did was relatively decent, though not exactly the best. It would do. He also trimmed the colt, who had excellent feet -- but he skipped the old Mustang mare, complaining that her hooves were just “too hard” for his nippers to work on, so he suggested I get them softened up and he’d come back. Now, that should have been my first clue that something was amiss, but I apparently missed it. I’d lectured him on precisely how I wanted that mare trimmed, that she was a special case and needed a special touch. Two weeks later, he came back, again while I was away, though I didn’t realize he'd been there, as by the time I arrived home it was dark and already feeding time.

Early the next morning we noticed the old mare laying down in her paddock, and kept an eye on her until feeding time an hour later. When I went out to feed, she nickered at me but would not get up to eat, at which time I began to worry. As it turns out, the new shoer I had used ignored everything I had told him about that mare and he tried trimming her to be at an angle far different (more like a “normal” horse) than her feet would take. She was so sore in the hooves that she didn’t want to stand on them! I felt to badly for that poor horse, I fired the farrier, refused to pay him for that trim and found myself an excellent young farrier who listened, pain attention, did an outstanding job and charged less that the first shoer. Lesson learned.

Similarly I have used another farrier wannabe (my term for those who resemble the aforementioned) in more recent years who could not even balance a horse’s foot and flatly refused to measure either toe length or angle on my horses. He wouldn’t work on the horses I had that needed specialty shoes like toe weights, trailers or the like, either, which in hindsight was probably a good thing. He was unreliable and had a habit of either not showing up at all, stopping by at a time other than what we had scheduled or even getting there a day early. Annoying to say the least. I’d finally had enough of that one when I looked closely at one of my geldings, noticing how far off both front feet were from each other. That was it, he was gone.

I have no excuse other than I just didn’t want to begin the farrier search again and used this guy because he’s who the facility I was training out of used on their horses. As I said, it really was no excuse. Thankfully, I have found another couple of real gems who are outstanding farriers, do their jobs right, listen to my input and neither second guess me or argue with me! Both my farriers I have used now for a couple of years, and there is another who I've used in the past and some clients prefer that I can call in a pinch if I need something done and one of my regulars cannot make it out in a timely fashion.

Speaking of horse shoes, there are a large variety of shoes, which have many different purposes, from your standard machined “keg” shoe, to action enhancing toe weight shoes, to half rounds that help with breakover to egg bar shoes which help support a foundered or navicular horse. Many more specialty shoes exist, along with options like plastic pads, leather pads, toe clips, trailers and various other configurations and appliances.

We live in a rather rocky area, therefore I prefer to have shoes on all my horses that are being ridden, especially those who go out on the trail where I have less control over the terrain. Some horses have naturally great hooves that simply need a trim, others tend toward brittle, dry hooves or just have weak hoof walls.

For a majority of horses, regular keg shoes are just fine. With my performance show horses, I prefer a half round shoe and I use toe weights of 14 ounces on my flat saddle English horses (though now in the Arabian breed we have no set weight limit for shoes but utilize a specially designed gauge instead for measuring shoes).

On most of my show horses I also use plastic pads, to help with concussion and allow them a bit less hoof in total length, since I like them to have between a 4” and 4.5” foot (Purebred Arabians) or a 5” to 5.5” hoof in my Half Arabians.

There are pro’s and con’s to the use of pads, just as there are with shoeing itself. Some folks swear by barefoot trimming, a lot more folks today are having their horses half shod with just shoes in front with the back barefoot, and you have a whole new generation pushing what they call a “Natural Balance” aluminum shoe. For me, I really dislike aluminum shoes, because they tend to wear out quickly and wear uneven unless you have a horse with perfect feet. Which, most of us truly don’t. I prefer the motion I get out of a well shod horse, and movement is paramount in the Pleasure horse arena.

Much of horseshoes versus trimming is personal preference, and there is no one “right” way, other than how to correctly trim and shoe a horse!

If there is a moral to this story, it’s choose your farrier wisely based on a number of recommendations, and if possible go watch him work on some of his customers’ horses before hiring him. When you like what you see and see what you like, hire him on the spot. Good shoers are very hard to find!

~SFTS

A Horsemen’s How-To on Hoof Care ~ Part I

2009-12-07T11:44:00.000-08:00

More often than not as horse owners, once the farrier has left until the next appointment we tend to forget about our horses’ feet, however, one thing we should never forget is the old adage, for want of a nail the shoe is lost, for want of a shoe the hoof is lost, for want of a hoof the horse is lost. It might not be exactly quoted, but you get the idea.

Healthy hooves begin with your horse’s diet, so we’ll start there. Many horses in California are still on a primarily alfalfa diet, though a lot of owners have chosen to feed bermuda grass, orchard grass or any of a number of other alternatives. One fact remains, and that is alfalfa is more difficult to digest than the grass hays and that’s in large part why it isn’t the optimum choice to feed your horses without supplementation of other products. I use a high Biotin supplement and generally choose feed products that include additional Biotin. For some horses with especially poor hooves, I’ll also feed powdered gelatin. These are extra steps to help encourage strong hair and hoof growth, and while they may be slightly expensive to feed, the benefits outweigh any added cost by keeping your shoeing bill lower.

Here in the High Desert there are other considerations with regard to hoof care, most noticeably our sandy and often rocky (in some areas) ground. I use a hoof conditioner twice per day on my horses in order to keep in the moisture -- I prefer Absorbine Hooflex™ -- generally brushing it on in the mornings after feeding (and while applying fly spray in the Spring and Summer months), and after each work session. If it’s a day off for the horse, I repeat the process at evening feeding time.

When we first arrived in the High Desert after relocating from Chino Hills, something both the vets and farriers suggested was to keep a small pool of water or at least rather damp ground around our water barrels in outside paddocks, in a wide enough circumference that the horse would have to stand in the water or on the wet sand in order to drink. This worked quite well, though it had to be maintained several times per day during the hot Summer months. These days I don’t engage in that practice any longer, generally because of West Nile Virus worries. We do have very few instances of mosquito sightings up here, but nonetheless I’d rather minimize my horses’ potential exposure to WNV.

Unfortunately, an awful lot of us can’t afford that expensive rubber based footing or even enough loads of store bought screened sand for our arenas and round pens, so we endure what came naturally. What we often don’t realize is how damaging that can be to our horses’ hooves. I routinely drag my arena and round pen with a scraper then a harrow, plus I scour them on a regular basis for rocks, sticks and any of a number of other hazards that can damage my horses’ legs and feet. Just one little piece of gravel can make for hundreds of dollars in vet bills, pain for your horse and lost training time. Something I see distressingly often here in the Desert are really horrible conditions that horses are forced to endure being ridden on, and while you can’t do much about the footing where or when you trail ride, on improved land with an arena, I expect better groomed ground.

What it all boils down to is basic common sense can go a long ways toward keeping your horses sound for long periods of time. Think about how it feels to jog a mile or go on a lengthy hike with a pebble in your shoe and magnify it several hundredfold to understand how you may be inadvertently making your horse suffer.

Tomorrow, part two concerning farrier techniques and shoes. Until then stay safe, warm and dry. We're riding out the storm here at Sunlit Farm!!

~SFTS

Bits . . . Revisited

2009-12-06T18:08:00.000-08:00

I am convinced nothing confounds horse owners like bits. Of course, I have written on the subject a number of times, but it never fails that I see horses wearing things in their mouths on a routine basis that I wouldn’t wish on my worst enemy. Well.....maybe my worst enemy. ;)

Recently there was a discussion online about an individual’s use of a bit branded “harmless” and mild, yet in reality this was an exceptionally harsh bit designed for horses that pull or lean (the Waterford bit) on your hands. If you do not understand the reason for a specific bit, do not use that bit! I just don’t comprehend grabbing a piece of tack, especially something you use in your horse’s mouth, not having a clue as to what it’s used for but using it anyways! There have also been very heated debates about equipment used on gaited horses - more on that later.

Which brings me to my point, and that is to help folks really understand what they should be using and why.

It has been some time since I last covered this topic, though at that time we focused more on what was acceptable for show horses in various disciplines. In the same timeframe we also established my preference for the snaffle, which of course I’ll reiterate now: There is absolutely no reason, unless you are showing your horse in a discipline that requires a curb or a double bridle (or you need something a little stronger for your very forward Hunter seat horse, on whom you prefer to use a pelham), that you cannot ride your horse every day, every ride, in a smooth snaffle bit. Period! If the horse does not respond, it isn’t the horse’s fault. Go back and patch those holes in his training, because that is where the fault lies.

True, as has been pointed out to me before, there are some VERY harsh snaffle bits available to consumers. Some of them even have a purpose (and I myself do have some relatively severe bits, though rarely, if ever, do I use them), but they would be akin to allowing a toddler to start a campfire if they fell into the wrong hands.

Choosing a bit for your horse is really a pretty simple process, or at least it should be. Use what your horse responds best to.

I just had yet another conversation with a couple of clients about the benefits and issues with using “tom thumb” bits - one chose to put her mare in a snaffle, the other decided to continue riding her trail gelding in one. When I explained the problem I had with them and demonstrated such, both reacted with a wince. This isn’t an uncommon reaction, imagine how your horse feels when you engage that bit! But you still want to put that thing in your horse’s mouth?? Needless to say, even that nice trail gelding now sports a smooth offset dee snaffle.

Another essential part of any bit discussion should be how snaffles and leverage bits work differently on the horse. Once you understand these differences, as any horse owner should, it is not difficult to see my point. That brings the next question: Why would you continue to use something that may well harm your horse? The short answer is simple: Shortcuts.

Trainers sometimes use harsher bits (and harsher methods) in order to get horses ready for something they would not ordinarily be ready for. Hence, a shortcut. Jamming on a horse’s mouth until they’re sore, just like teaching that farce called the ‘spur stop’ by jabbing the horse in the sides repeatedly with your spurs - have you seen some of those spurs?? - is NOT training. Helping a horse learn how they are properly supposed to respond to the bit, or any other training device, is what training is all about.

Additionally, there seems to be an increasing market for gimmick bits or what some stock breed trainers and reining enthusiasts refer to as “correction bits”. Supposedly for the hard mouthed horse, the head tosser or those horses who like to flip their tongues over the bit (which would easily be taken care of by lifting the bit via extra holes in the headstall, a dropped noseband or, at most, a tongue tie - though not legal in many show rings), I would simply rather train the horse to accept his bit without undue harshness on his mouth. Maybe that’s just me?

Here is the thing - many if not most folks who own horses, including some so-called "professionals", have no idea what the purpose behind many pieces of equipment is, least of all bits. Like the “gaited horse bit” thing. I received quite an education in all things gaited horse, because I had a client some time back searching for one as a trail mount.

Now, I have always been under the impression that a horse is a horse of course, and unless you are one of those above-referenced people who must use a certain bit on your horse for competition purposes, you really don’t have to grab that long shanked, harsh mouthed bit. If your horse cannot be controlled in anything short of such a bit, train the darn horse better! Once more, control is in the training, not the bit you use!

Back to the story. We went to a local broker’s ranch that specializes in bringing gaited horses out West from a farm in Tennessee. They are evaluated for their temperament and gaits, as well as how suitable they may be for beginners or the ‘weekend riders’ that just want to enjoy a leisurely stroll once a week. But you should have seen those pieces of steel their poor horses wore! We were told, “These are GAITED HORSES and therefore they must wear GAITED HORSE BITS.” Um, hello? Your horse is still a horse!

There is no reason on the planet to use those things called Gaited Horse Bits. Ever. Have you seen some of them? 8”-10” shanks, sometimes broken (snaffle) mouthpieces, on occasion they’re a thin double twisted wire, chain or bicycle chain (also called a “mule mouth” though I’ve never found a reason those should be used on mules, either). With the facility in question, they used either smooth snaffle mouths or a relatively mild curb mouth, though the long shanked cheeks were loose and had every opportunity to pinch the horses’ mouths. On top of that, each bit had it’s own thin curb chain. I noted a great deal of head tossing, drawn back lips, bit chomping and resistance on the part of their horses.

Okay, let me quickly go back lest the folks who show Tennessee Walkers or other various gaited horse breeds want to explain how certain bits are absolutely necessary for their show ring endeavors. That I can certainly understand, and you definitely see a specific look to the bits used on those particular horses ~ here's my problem, and it relates solely to the point I made above (and have hammered home on multiple occasions): Unless there is a specifically detailed reason for the use of a bit, outlined in the rules you follow as opposed to a mere, "But we've ALWAYS done it that way!" argument, terrific. Perhaps someone can educate me further. :)

Moral to this story? Listen to your horse and he will let you know what he thinks of your choices. If you make the right ones, the two of you will have a splendid partnership!

~SFTS

Odds & Ends

2009-12-05T11:01:00.000-08:00

Today I had another topic on my mind, however I decided to wait on that one and just throw together an "odds & ends" post.

Things are getting really busy, plans are being made for 2010 and we're readying our show string to take on the competition. Unfortunately it looks like a whopper of a storm system (a few, actually) is headed our way, which might mean snow, but we're hanging in there with both us and the horses all bundled up awaiting it's arrival.

We've got some more very exciting news to share, though more info will be forthcoming in the days ahead. If you'd like to know more, please email me at SunlitLady@aol.com for information and I'll spill the beans. :)

Next weekend will be a full one for us, starting with the Sun Country Horsemens Association Year End High Point Awards Banquet, where we'll be bringing home some big prizes for our clients. It should be fun and we can't wait to see all our friends from the SCHA show circuit, they are truly a wonderful bunch!

Also, there is a special event planned on Sunday where we will be in attendance, which I'll write about the following Monday. Stay tuned for that one.

One of the fun topics I am working on for the future is a photo essay on making trails. This one is going to take some effort and needs a lot of thought put behind it, but it's going to be a neat trip down the trail with us. I came up with this idea while out hacking along on a trail ride this past week with some clients, students and friends down a brand new trail we had made last weekend after the rains went away.

Additionally, I wanted to send a thank you out for all the compliments we have gotten on the blog, the website, plus on my husband's blog and website as well. They are much appreciated!!

Until tomorrow ~ stay warm, dry and safe!

~SFTS

They Rescue Horses, Don’t They?

2009-12-04T12:24:00.000-08:00

I know the rescue topic has been covered here on a number of occasions and I mentioned several terrific rescues in this space two weeks ago. That said, rescue is still such an important endeavor and in my eyes, those wonderful people who save these beautiful souls can never have enough publicity.

In these increasingly difficult financial times, which may not be getting any better any time within the next year or two (and in fact are projected to get a whole lot worse), there are more horses than ever in need of rescue. Here’s some background for all of you in relation to my own rescue journey.

My foray into the horse rescue world began many, many years ago when I learned of the horror that is horse slaughter. Tens of thousands of horses were, and are, killed to feed the wealthy in Europe and Japan, where horsemeat is considered a delicacy, a treat, unlike here in America where we don’t eat horses any more than we eat dogs or cats. There are simply animals which we raise for food, like cattle, hogs and chickens, as well as those we do not. Horses fall into that latter category and to many of us, they are a part of our family.

Back in 1998, the state of California passed Proposition 6, which banned the slaughtering of horses in this state for the purpose of human consumption as well as the transport of horses across state lines for the same purpose. Unfortunately it has been difficult, if not impossible, to enforce. Now that all U.S. slaughterhouses killing horses have been shut down due to state legislation and USDA regulations, American horses are being sent to Canada and Mexico increasingly in order to comply with foreign demand for horsemeat. Thankfully there is an effort in Congress to once again try to get this horror stopped once and for all, but that’s another story for another time.

All throughout history, there have been cases of horses suffering terrible abuse, neglect, starvation and all manner of dreadful things. For many reasons, none of them good, some people seem to think that it’s okay to harm horses or force them to endure incredibly awful situations or conditions. Take the story of Black Beauty, for instance. A horse that was born into a good life and had so much promise, then was sold into torment and terror. Such things happen to many horses to this very day, even in this country, and there are so few people who actually work to make a difference and change the lives of these horses.

A lot of folks who may even have horses recreationally (and especially as show animals) know precious little about this dark secret of the horse world. Others know and are disinterested in the fate of countless, nameless horses. Thankfully with the advent of the internet, more and more people are getting educated on what happens to racehorses that aren’t fast enough, for instance, or just horses that no one wants anymore (or those from breeders who overproduced in order to get that one “next big thing”, sending the rest who didn’t make the cut to their deaths far too early).

Many people also think only low quality, lame, sick or otherwise ‘garbage’ horses are in need of rescuing. Nothing could be further from the truth! Our mare SL Blue Angyl, for instance. A stellar performer in our show string and an outstanding producer, her story of a rescued horse who went on to become a multiple Champion on the highest levels of California Class A Arabian competition in several different disciplines is on my website (look under "A Rescue Story" for her tale) and she's been profiled in our farm newsletter. There wasn’t a thing wrong with her, she has never taken a lame step and has a dazzling pedigree, yet she nearly went to slaughter because there simply weren’t enough buyers at the auction (incidentally a registered Arabian sale) she went through.

Fortunately, there are amazing and incredibly big hearted people out there who routinely take in abused, starved and neglected horses or those their owners can no longer care for, and find them homes if deemed adoptable.

Two of those ladies are right here nearby, Tania Bennett of Mustang Spirit Rescue in Pinon Hills and Courtney Hobson of Under the Angels’ Wings Rescue in Phelan, which I mentioned in my previous rescue post. Both Tania and Courtney have selflessly given their time and money to help too many horses to count, even if it means merely assisting them by painless euthanasia if there is nothing that can be done to save them. I am blessed and honored to know both these fabulous ladies and proud to call them friends. I am also in awe of the work they do (regardless of my many years of involvement in rescue, they still never cease to amaze me). But in this economic turmoil that’s gripping our nation, times are even tougher for rescues and donations are way down which, in turn, harms the horses in need of rescue and TLC.

For more information on both Mustang Spirit and Under the Angels Wings, please visit their websites ~ shown here in this post ~ I am thrilled to get you in touch with either or both of them. You can schedule a tour of each rescue and begin your journey, maybe leading to becoming a volunteer. I can guarantee you the horses will thank you big time!!

~SFTS

A Showmanship How-To Guide

2009-12-03T09:47:00.000-08:00

Today I’m going to tackle the sensitive topic of Showmanship. This is the art of showing the horse to it’s best advantage, and the horse itself is merely a prop. This is one of my favorite classes and has been for many years ~ it takes long hours of practice and an incredible amount of work and concentration to perfect, but the reward for taking that time will be blue ribbons for sure!

Showmanship can either be exhibited Western or English, with correct appointments. Western horses are exhibited in show halters (no matter the breed), and English horses are shown in bridles or, in some cases, show halters. A Paint or Quarter horse shown Western-style can have his mane banded, horses shown Hunter-seat English should be braided, at least the mane. Handlers of Western horses will wear colorful suits with striking Western-type vests or jackets along with their boots and hat; Hunter-seat English exhibitors will wear their riding habit, complete with breeches or jodphurs, coat, boots and helmet; those showing Saddleseat English horses must be outfitted in their saddlesuits, jod boots and hat.

Although judged on the handler as opposed to the horse, it is imperative that the horse be clean and impeccably groomed. That said, the most important factors a judge will be looking for in a Showmanship class are attentiveness and what we call “crispness”. The handler’s movements should be sharp, quick and precise. Her horse MUST be responsive and at the ready when asked for a pattern (I’ll get to that in a minute) -- he must not disobey nor be too lazy or too hyped. Eye contact needs to be held with the judge at all times, though not necessarily will the JUDGE have his eyes on the handler, and never should the horse come between the handler and her watching the judge. If the judge is to the handler’s left, she should be at her horse’s right toward his shoulder but facing the horse at an angle. When the judge moves to the handler’s right, she must immediately switch sides and position herself in the mirror image of her previous stance.

Two judging “systems” are used when being evaluated: The half and the quarter. With the half system, not used much today, the handler will move to the opposite side of the horse as the judge passes behind the horse. The quarter system further divides the horse and dictates that the handler should move once the judge walks beyond the horse’s shoulder.

Judges most always ask for a pattern in Showmanship classes, sometimes referred to as “Equitation on the ground”. Included is walking to and/or away from the judge, pivoting on the hind, backing and turning. Whenever the handler leads her horse away from the judge, she should look over her shoulder, toward the horse, to be sure she’s traveling straight. Acknowledgment of the judge is paramount! The handler will use the same techniques outlined previously for setting up or squaring Halter horses, but it must be done as quickly as possible. The longer it takes a Showmanship handler to set her horse up, the more points she’ll lose.

At home before ever leaving for the showgrounds (should I even need to stress this anymore?), the potential pattern moves should be practiced until they are so ingrained into horse and handler they become automatic. Once arriving on the showgrounds it’s a good idea if you’re competing in Showmanship to look for a posted pattern, and if there is none to be found, inquire with the show office to find out what will be expected in the Showmanship class(es). Then memorize the pattern and practice, practice, practice!

That age old saying, “practice makes perfect” might not be absolute, but being well versed in what is going to be asked in the class is a whole lot better than wondering. Another excellent reason to memorize the pattern and pay little heed to what and how the exhibitors in front of you do their pattern is because sometimes the first one in the ring will run through the pattern incorrectly, and many times the rest of the class follows suit! If you’re paying close attention to detail (and every Showmanship handler should be detail oriented), you can walk off with a blue ribbon just by doing the pattern right if everyone else is off course, even if you didn’t give the most sterling of performances.

Hopefully this guide has been helpful to you, may it bring you confidence and luck in your show ring endeavors. See you in the ring!!!

~SFTS

Exercises For Horse & Rider Part III ~ The Trail Mount

2009-12-02T08:28:00.000-08:00

As we focused on show horses yesterday, here our gaze will be cast upon fitness for the trusty trail horse. Of course, many of our previous tips will apply to the mounts we ride on the trail, so remember to refer back to our longeing plan for guidance on how to begin. Where things differ is in the terrain that trail horses are expected to traverse and the conditions they must face.

To start, of course, we’ll use that Daily Grooming Process and begin the horse on that longeing program mentioned earlier. But instead of getting down to bitting up, longlining and arena work, once we’ve passed the magical six week mark of conditioned longeing, we’ll be saddling up to hit the trail.

Luckily, we have a wide variety of topography across the local countryside and I can begin with nice short rides around the block for a maximum of a half hour at the walk on rather flat, level ground. Nothing too stressful or hard on those muscles when I first take him out the property gates, which are at that point still just getting used to the program.

I’m going to build on those early rides slowly by stretching them first into about 45 minutes and then up to an hour before bringing the horse home. My horse needs to remain calm and be confident, so I don’t overwork him and cause tying up problems, which is why I like to keep my rides early on relatively short, sweet and easy. After the first week on his back, meaning four to six rides, I will strive to find some nice soft sections of trail or dirt road where I can ease the horse into a trot for a brief time. Keyword there is brief.

Ultimately, after I have spent three to four more weeks out there on the trail, I’ll stretch that ride time out and begin challenging the horse physically by heading into the hills and asking him to negotiate some minor grades (both up and down) as well as adding more trot time plus perhaps a little bit of cantering.

As most anyone will tell you and you’ve probably heard this (or been admonished for it) a thousand times, but I never turn in the direction of home at more than a brisk walk and don’t ever allow the horse to think he can get away with jigging, ever. It’s a flat footed walk for me at all times, unless I give him the go-ahead to step into a trot or canter on specific trails or in specific areas. I also don’t want to use the same sections of trail for those purposes more often than once per week, if I’m riding essentially the same trails daily, because under no circumstances do I want that horse to think he can go on auto pilot and break into that trot or higher on his own, just because we’ve come to a place I have allowed him to trot or canter before.

By this time I will be actively seeking out trails I know will be tougher, either because of steeper hills, stream crossings, stony paths to negotiate through, logs to step over or are otherwise more than your average dirt track or easy neighborhood trail. Once I reach this juncture in my conditioning program it will be imperative that the horse has meticulously maintained hooves and can withstand more rigorous riding than in a nice, soft arena. I prefer to take out another horse (one other than the horse I’m in the middle of conditioning) to scout out appropriate trails and to route out how best to prepare my subject for new and more challenging work.

Just as I described previously with conditioning my show horses, I will continue longeing while branching out onto the trail. Most of my conditioning will still be done in the arena or round pen at the end of a longeline, because there I can concentrate on how fit the horse is and keep better track of his progress in becoming well conditioned. I won’t be longeing for long enough to exhaust him, I want him alert and responsive when I’m on his back, my goal is to build his level of tolerance for work.

Eventually, rides of several hours won’t be a problem for this horse, because he’ll be used to the exercising routine and in fact more likely than not he'll be looking forward to our time together outside the confines of an arena.

Now I’d like to spend a little bit of time discussing leg protection, which is not something I covered in the prior installment of this topic, though it very important for the health and soundness of any horse. For my show horses, I use polo wraps or a combination of polos and splint boots, depending on the horse’s job.

For higher powered careers, such as flat saddle English horses, jumpers, reiners and so forth, I use polo wraps on all four legs, from just below the knee or hock, under the fetlock for support and back up the leg. For my Western Pleasure and Hunter Pleasure horses, I only wrap the front legs, using splint boots on the hind. Depending on the horse, I also may use bell boots if they tend to over-reach. But for most horses when only being longed or trail ridden, all I will use is a good set of splint boots on the front legs for the sake of protection from cross striding and interfering.

Some folks will use sports medicine boots instead of wraps, but for me that’s personal preference. I just happen to like the support provided by properly applied polo wraps as opposed to the boots.

Most importantly, if you follow a good, solid regimen of conditioning, you will have a more enjoyable time on the trail without worrying if your horse can handle what you’re asking of him. Plus, I can about guarantee your horse will thank you for it!

~SFTS

Exercises For Horse & Rider Part II ~ The Young (or Young At Heart!) Show Horse

2009-12-01T18:00:00.000-08:00

Yesterday I covered exercises and a plan for your own fitness as a rider. Now here’s something else to think about ~ your horse. Yes, that has been done here as well, but there can never be too much of an emphasis on fitness and the conditioning of your horse. This time I'm taking the topic even further.

Every day, every ride, with every horse, I will spend the requisite grooming session making sure all is well and everything is completely normal. What’s considered normal for one horse, of course, doesn’t necessarily mean the same as what’s normal for the next horse, so I start by gaining an understanding of each horse as an individual. In fact, I have a whole rigmarole for preparing my horses for a day’s work, beginning with my "Daily Grooming Process” that I've also written about before. During this time I can make sure there are no obvious changes or differences, injuries or anything off about the horse from outward appearances. I’ll note any scrapes, cuts, dings, swelling keeping track of them for treatment and to see if anything worsens as well as when they heal or improve, because during grooming I have a chance to get my hands all over him.

With show horses, we all know (or at least we should know) the difference between a fit horse and one that’s out of condition. Nothing looks worse than an unthrifty, out of breath mount huffing and puffing around the show ring dripping in sweat. But there’s a simple way to prevent such a thing by making sure your horse is in shape long before he sets foot on that trailer bound for the showgrounds.

My conditioning program consists of longeing to start, then I’ll add in bitting while longeing and for some (most, actually) show horses I’ll move to longlining work ~ otherwise known as ground driving.

Assuming the horse in question was either recently pulled out of a back pasture or otherwise has had a long time off work, we’ll start with the very basics. First up, the grooming process where we can begin gauging normalcy for this individual horse. Longeing time will consist of two or three minutes of warmup time at the walk (a good, brisk walk at that, no lollygagging), then ten minutes of solid, forward trotting, five minutes each direction. I’ll finish up with another 2-3 minutes of walking each way to cool him out. If the arena, round pen or wherever you’re longeing him has nice, soft footing, that work time can be split between the trot and canter. After the first few days I’ll increase the longeing time in five to ten minute increments making my way up to a 45 minute workout per horse over the course of six weeks or so.

By the time I’m longeing for 30 minutes per work session and have been doing so for a good two weeks, I’ll begin following up with a little bit of light riding, consisting of large circles, bending and flexing, just an easy ten minutes of walking and jogging or trotting without asking for any collection or much of a headset at all. The idea is to give the horse’s body more of an understanding about why we’re fitting him, a little bit of a tuneup before launching into full scale training workouts.

After that first six weeks I’ll spend more time at the canter while longeing and pare down the free longe time, adding the bitting rig. For instance, and he’ll be fully outfitted with the rig from the start, I will free longe for five minutes each direction to soften his muscles and get him loosened up and ready for harder work, then bit lightly for another five minutes each way before finishing with five minutes both directions with the horse slightly bent toward the inside before saddling. Note that I do not counter bend my horses on the longeline, ever. With some horses, I’ll alternate working them in longlines rather than just bitting to longe, but for most owners, doing so would depend on their skill level and confidence in knowing how to ground drive a horse safely (another issue that I've covered here before).

Even once I’ve gotten the horse fit to my standards, I’ll spend 20 minutes longeing ~ my general rule of thumb is to free longe five minutes each way, then longe lightly bitted up to the saddle each way -- before I climb aboard. While each horse, like us as riders, will be different, some take longer than others, following a dedicated game plan is the only way to ensure you have a well conditioned horse who will shine in the show ring.

Knowing your horse, knowing his strong points and his weak points, will go a long way toward understanding what it’s going to take in order to be sure he’s as well conditioned as the rest of his competition.

Here's my quick "Must-Have Fitness & Wellness Checklist":

1) Groom your horse thoroughly to note anything abnormal such as cuts, scrapes, abrasions of any sort, heat or swelling, especially on the legs.

2) Begin each work session slowly and observe your horse’s gaits to notice any variation in his movement or any lameness issues.

3) Always start your work sessions with a well defined plan of action in order to optimize your horse’s level of fitness and follow it to the letter unless there is a specific reason to alter your plan.

4) Never ask your horse to do more than they are physically capable of or push them before they are ready, to prevent soundness issues.

Eat, sleep, ride and we'll see you in the show ring next year!

~SFTS

Exercises For Horse & Rider Part I ~ Rider Fitness

2009-11-30T07:17:00.000-08:00

In the coming days once again I’ll be addressing fitness for your horse, whether you compete or just ride for pleasure on the local trails, but I thought I would begin by talking about getting YOU fit, as the rider.

We all know, if we spend any amount of time in the saddle at all, that it takes some stamina and pretty decent muscles in order to comfortably ride for any length of time. A lot of us also don’t go to the gym, so our workout options are somewhat limited.

Aside from just telling you to go join the local 24 Hour Fitness (if you happen to have one close by -- we don’t!), I’m going to give you some tips on how to go about increasing your ability to ride for longer periods of time without breaking the bank or physically falling apart (which is what we’re trying to avoid here!).

There are plenty of things horse owners, at least those who have their horses at home and must take care of them, have to do on a daily basis which can immensely help us get in shape and stay fit. Stall cleaning, for one, is great exercise! Lifting those manure forks and rakes and pushing that wheelbarrow is good exercise. So is hauling hay, carrying feed buckets or even grooming your horse. Unloading hay from your truck and stacking it? Great way to build your arms and work on those abs!

It can actually be fun to see how many things within a normal day you can do to help further your cause of getting in shape, and kind of chart your progress. If you have specific “trouble areas” (like we all do), you can look for more things to do around the ranch which will help you tone them.

But seriously, it is good exercise, as is actually getting on your horse and riding.

You might be asking, why do you really need to be in good shape to ride your horse? Well, you might want to ask yourself that question again after you get back from that first three hour trail ride with your friends in the Springtime. Ouch! Even those of us who ride horses for a living, often riding many horses per day, have to stay in shape for the activity, and how do you think we manage? I know I don’t have time to run across town to the gym, so it works in my favor that I do a job that’s physically demanding.

Believe me, by late Spring or early Summer, you will be thanking me for covering this subject, even if it seems silly about now! :)

~SFTS

Marketing: Developing A Successful Ad Campaign

2009-11-29T08:57:00.000-08:00

There is an old saying that goes something like this: “To make a small fortune in the horse business, you have to start with a large fortune.” I have previously covered the subject of preparing a horse for sale and trying to get him sold. As most folks understand, it takes a little bit of effort and laying of ground work to close a sale on a single horse, not the least of which is making sure the public actually knows the horse is available for sale.

Something most horse owners never really think about, however, mainly because it’s not a necessary part of their activities as their lives revolve around horses, is a serious and successful advertising campaign.

Of course, many trainers, breeders and stable owners or managers spend a great deal of time strategizing their plans on how to promote their programs and facilities. But how did they get to the point where they needed to market their products (breeding stallions, foals, sale horses) and services? You can bet in the beginning it was nothing fancy, but rather, ideas that evolved regarding how best to promote what they have to offer.

In today’s world, the fact is, people want to be told what you can offer them and how they can benefit from their association with you. But there are some very important rules ~ number one, BE PROFESSIONAL! Always conduct yourself in a professional manner. Check, double check, triple check your spelling in any advertisements, websites and so forth. Nothing makes me run away faster from dealing with a so-called "professional" than repeated mis-spellings and grammatical errors. I don't expect everyone to have a Language Arts Degree, but for Heavens sake use your spell check!

If someone questions you about your horse(s), answer those questions honestly without losing your cool. Sure, it's not pleasant to feel like you are being challenged about facts or other things pertaining to your horses and business, and no one wants to be interrogated like it's the Inquisition, however it is imperative to the health and long term well being of your business that you always take the time to be courteous and give complete, satisfactory answers no matter how small the matter may seem.

Let’s examine how a breeder or stallion owner approaches the concept of marketing. It all starts with having a ‘product’ that you want the public to show some interest in, hopefully purchasing that product. Any knowledgeable stallion owner, for instance, understands the vital importance of having good, professional photographs of their horses taken. Sure, your best friend or spouse may have snapped some cute pictures of your horses before, but stop to think about if those sort of candid shots are really going to attract the attention of someone who will want to lay down good money for a stud fee.

Photographs of a stallion who looks ragged and is dirty screams that you don't care about the horse or your reputation. In this business (like any other), reputation is everything. Every negative comment or statement about you, your program or your business will wipe out twenty or more positive comments.

Honestly, the same goes for anyone trying to sell any horse. After all, that’s what stallion owners are selling, of course: A product that produces baby horses (or those baby horses themselves)! Breeders who have young stock for sale will splurge for quality photos as well, because they know that attracts the interest of buyers looking for a quality horse. Most breeders today will have a photographer out to shoot all of their youngsters from each year’s foal crop. True, it is a lot of work and quite costly, but if you want your horses to bring top dollar, the investment is money well spent.

Another consideration will be where to market your horse(s).

There are a variety of options, and they range from free to rather expensive. On the internet you can find various websites which offer free listings, some will be free text ads, others offer free photos or even video, while many do charge a nominal fee. To be truthful, I’m really not a big fan of internet horse sale sites. The single most important factor in choosing one upon which to list your horses, though, is site hits (otherwise known as page views). Sites people just don’t visit are not going to be effective in selling your horse! Not only that, there are sites which generally attract people who are not interested in paying good money for quality horseflesh ~ Craigslist comes to mind as the most glaring example. Stay away from it!

My personal preference is regional print magazines, avoiding the text-only classifieds. Naturally, if you have a National or World Champion quality horse (who is proven at that level), seek out the nationally distributed glossy publications for your chosen breed or discipline, otherwise, stick to what’s published locally. Remember, you should expect to at least recoup some of your ad costs when selling either horses or breeding, so keep in mind what you will be paying when utilizing the glossies. If that full page, four color print ad costs $800-$900, you won’t be making much back if your horse sells for only $1,000! The fact is, you get what you pay for. If you have quality horses and are interested in selling them for decent prices, invest a little bit in promoting them right.

Another thing to keep in mind will be how recognizable your advertising is. Of course, this isn’t so important if you’re just a private owner with one horse to sell, but keeping some continuity to your ads will begin to establish your name. All of my ads, flyers and my website are distinctively mine, so folks pretty much know what they are looking at, who they are dealing with and where they can expect to go when they see what I have available. Along those same lines is a consistency of having your advertising out there in front of potential customers. Again, not so vital unless you have a stallion to promote or a boarding/training barn to fill, but I consider it a really major part of my advertising budget. One flashy, expensive ad in one magazine or advertising paper may make a statement, but ads running on a consistent basis where your name is out there in front of the public on a regular basis makes it harder for them to forget you.

Let me say in closing that no matter what, your advertising will speak for you, so be sure what you say is inviting and makes people want to contact you for more information. That is what it boils down to if you want to exchange your offerings for money.

Remember that old saying ~ IMAGE IS EVERYTHING. It might be an old cliche in advertising, but still rings true throughout all walks of life and every industry.

~SFTS

Trailering Secrets: Tales From Hitting the Road

2009-11-28T10:12:00.000-08:00

Note: This installment was completed with the assistance of Steve Nichols from SJN Enterprises and Home Services.

How many times have you been driving down the freeway and spotted someone on the shoulder pulled over with the hood up on their minivan or small SUV and taken shocked notice that they dared to attempt pulling their horse trailer with such a vehicle? Welcome to my nightmare.

We have a saying around here that goes something like this: There is no such thing as “too much” pulling power. Of course, part of that comes from being married to a gearhead husband who thrives on horsepower and gets giddy at the smell of high octane fuel.

There is truly nothing worse than thinking you’re headed to that early morning class at the local horse show (or making an emergency trip to the veterinary hospital for surgery) and breaking down by the side of the road, which is bad enough without having horses in the trailer stamping and neighing. That’s why this time around we are discussing what steps you can take to prevent as many catastrophes on the road as possible.

Of course, everyone knows there are basic steps to keeping your vehicle maintained, such as regular oil changes, replacing the oil filter and air filter, transmission service, radiator flushing and so forth. Those things are doubly important if you’re towing a trailer. Correctly inflated tires with optimum pressure for hauling and ensuring that you not only have good load handling tires with the plenty of tread but that they are in good shape (preferably without the dry rot!) is essential to a stress-free trip. Periodically check your spare tire to make sure it will be suitable if the need for it arises, and certainly replace it if you need to. Getting stuck with no spare is one of my biggest pet peeves. Another add-on that makes life for your truck that much more manageable, helping your vehicle last longer is an oil cooler for both engine oil and transmission oil. Most heavier duty trucks have them factory installed these days, but you should check if your truck falls into that category. If not, I suggest heading to AutoZone or your local auto parts retailer and purchasing one to have outfitted under the hood.

You also want to make regular checks on your electric trailer brake controller to be sure it’s in good working order, and thoroughly check your hitch and ball mount. Trailer balls can get worn and loosen up (I have had two different clients who’ve had their trailer actually come bouncing off the truck while driving!) so keep the ball well lubed. In addition, look over the pin which holds the ball mount inside your hitch for signs of wear and replace it if necessary.

Now it’s time to look over your horse trailer, and for me the first two places I check before every trip are the floorboards and the tires. Having properly inflated tires which are made for horse trailers and have the load capacity it takes to carry thousands of pounds is essential, and the same as above goes for the trailer’s spare tire. Lift the mats, pull them out and thoroughly inspect the boards for cracks, warping or other signs that they need to be replaced and do so promptly if you find them deficient in any way.

Now, many folks keep shavings in their trailer year round, and here is why I don’t -- shavings tend to hold in moisture (read: urine) and that tends to damage the trailer’s floorboards. Since I’m not fond of the idea of my horses falling through the floor of my trailer while tooling down the freeway doing 65 miles per hour (ooops, the trailer pulling speed limit in California is 55 mph, my bad!), I’m going to do all I can to make sure that won’t happen. I thoroughly clean and hose out my trailer after each trip, then allow it to air dry. The only times I’ll put shavings in the trailer are for trips more than a certain mileage or when the horses will be in the trailer for more than a few hours at a time. Leaving the trailer shavings free also keeps the air circulating through the trailer less dusty which helps prevent respiratory problems in many horses.

Finally on trailer maintenance is making sure your wheel bearings are cleaned and repacked every year, checking for wear of any sort. If you notice wear, pitting and so forth, they should be replaced as opposed to merely repacked. This year with a trailer load of horses I had the unfortunate experience of a wheel bearing failure on my trailer while driving. It was NOT fun! We'd had a big Half-Arabian gelding tied to the trailer at a show who had pawed at one wheel and knocked the dust cap off ~ this contributed to the grease heating up going down the road and my noticing smoke coming off a left hand side wheel on my trailer. Which isn't an episode I care to ever repeat or anything I'd ever want to see happen to another horse owner.

What vehicle you should use to tow your trailer is mostly a matter of personal preference as it relates to brand names (we are a General Motors family, but some folks prefer Ford or Dodge), however the main consideration is whether the truck you buy is built for the job. In all honesty, horsepower isn’t as important as torque, and something I’ve learned is not to believe everything the salesman at your local dealership tells you. Too many times I’ve heard horror stories of someone going in to buy a truck and being told that the little half ton with that small V6 is going to have no problem hauling a four horse gooseneck trailer up over Cajon Pass or the Grapevine. NEXT!

For my hauling needs, I use either a one ton dually or our one ton truck and I’ve never run out of power, but most three-quarter ton pickups handle many loads just fine. If I could have chosen one more added feature on the dually it would have been four wheel drive, which would come in handy under a variety of conditions, but it wasn’t on my list of ‘must-haves’. Our new truck is a 4x4 and that suits me just fine! :) Plenty of power under the hood and a long bed were a high priority for me, along with making certain the truck was equipped and pre-wired for trailer lights as well as electric trailer brakes.

Likewise, when shopping for a trailer there are things we have to have and then there are the luxuries. For my purposes, the luxury would have been a five or six horse slant aluminum gooseneck, but I settled for a two horse slant bumper pull with a nice dressing room. Once again, brand name isn’t necessarily all that important and all of us have certain preferences. Mine is a Logan Coach, but I'm saving up for that beautiful Exiss gooseneck of my dreams!

Safety in several areas is my main criteria for a horse trailer, and it’s vital that any trailer I ever consider buying has specific features. Number one is a ramp, with drop down feed doors coming in a close second. The dressing room is another thing I can’t do without, and it had better have room for all my show tack and show clothes for a variety of disciplines.

But there are essential areas that need your attention when shopping for a trailer. Where your inside trailer ties attach is very important, as well as where you tie your horses on the outside, far too many trailers have extremely weak welds in these important places (in fact, I had my husband go over my trailer with a fine toothed comb and reinforce welds in many places, including the ramp and the top door). Also, be careful to check where the wiring is routed, a lot of trailers have exposed wires where the horses could chew on them, and that’s a big no-no. In fact, my husband also re-wired my trailer entirely after I’d had it for a number of years, installing halogen light bulbs and replacing the old brake and turn signal lights on the back of the trailer with high visibility LED lights like most of today’s big rigs have, purchased from the local truck stop.

In the future we’ll cover different truck and trailer topics, but here you have the most basic of the basic as far as maintenance and important tips go.

~SFTS

A Halter Training How-To Guide

2009-11-27T09:12:00.000-08:00

Disclaimer: The first part of this post was originally written back in 1986, however it has undergone three separate revisions over the last 20+ years. For the most part, a vast majority of the original article has a great deal of value, though some of the techniques are slightly outdated and no longer in use.

In addition, there are other fantastic resources out there available for owners who aspire to train their Arabian horses to compete in Halter classes. The only one I recommend is found on the Ammy Army forum website (click link). In order to view the training articles, you need to join the forum ~ however a whole new world awaits you! :)

Okay, here we go.

My focus here is on the In Hand classes we encounter at horse show events and I’m going to cover a broad spectrum, including how to prepare for the different variations of classes, what the judges will be looking for, how to train and exhibit your horse and a brief explanation of the various sub-categories of Halter classes in existence today. As many of you may know, there is a difference between Halter and Showmanship. Basically speaking, Halter is judged on the horse and Showmanship on the handler. This will be in regard to Halter-type classes, so the nucleus of this post will be regarding training and presentation of the horse for judging.

Any exhibitor’s first order of business is, of course, to fit and prepare themselves and their horse for the class of their choice. Fitting is just what it implies, the fitness and readiness to compete, and is a vital stepping stone to show ring success. Many a tri-color ribbon has been lost due to a lack of fitness, and for what? Unless you’re paying a trainer or someone else to leg up your horse for you, it’s the single least expensive part of the entire show scene, and no one else can get you whipped into shape but you. Bottom line, in condition is “in”, and looking good is the number one name of the game.

I have covered both fitness and grooming before, so I won’t delve into that subject now, but remember, you and your horse had better look your best. That means a spotless, clean, well prepared horse -- and don’t forget a neat, tidy, well dressed handler. In the Halter ring, you want to present the picture of perfection, so don’t expect the judge to overlook a horse with fuzzy ears and a dull coat even if you consider those things small potatoes. Another thing to keep in mind is, just like performance classes, get your horse trained so he knows his job before you load him in the trailer and head for the showgrounds. I cannot stress this enough: Training should be done at home, not in the show ring!

With stock breed horses, your equine partner needs to know how to walk and jog quietly beside you and to stop squarely on cue. When I begin to teach a young Quarter Horse or Paint how to be a proper and responsive Halter prospect, the first thing I’m going to sink into his mind is “Whoa!”, which (as I’ve mentioned previously ad nauseum) is the most vital command he’ll ever learn. That goes for ANY horse.

Back to business...I want him to move beside me without a fuss and so that neither am I dragging him, nor is he dragging me. The image I’m hoping to attain is one of cadence and symmetry. This exercise really doesn’t take long to gain his understanding, as long as a firm voice and consistency is used. If I’m requesting a walk, I’ll start by turning my right shoulder toward the horse, facing forward, and make a series of short “kiss noises” (the cue I use for walk). He should freely and obediently walk forward at my side, with my shoulder at about mid-neck. When I want him to begin jogging, my cue is a “clucking” sound. If he doesn’t want to move with me, I’ll utilize a long-ish buggy whip to encourage him, though after only a time or two of practice, the friendly persuasion is usually no longer needed. All the whip is used for is to gently brush against his hindquarters if (and only if) he does not move forward when verbally asked.

Don’t make the mistake of working him too long, just enough to keep the lesson ingrained but new and refreshing. I like to get the concepts down, then run through a “class” -- just like he’ll be asked to do in the show ring -- or two and have him do what I ask, then I’ll quit for the day. In the beginning we will just work on a couple of basic concepts, then add things in each day until he has them down.

Going back to stopping and standing on the lead, once he understands telling him “Whoa” means a complete cessation of all forward movement, we’ll work on hoof placement. I don’t want him stretched, nor do I want him camped under, because a balanced appearance is a must. Both front hooves and both hind should fall evenly with each other at the toe, and they should not give him the look of a base narrow animal. In other words, when looking at his legs from the front or the rear, I don’t want to see legs which angle inward or outward. They should be nice and straight. This is something that can be accomplished even with a horse who tracks narrow, It’s all in how much time is spent teaching him to square up. I want to keep his attention focused and not allow him to drop his head and fall asleep, either. He’s a show horse, after all, and in the show ring he’s always on display.

No horse is perfect, but we’re still striving for the look of perfection.

How do you go about teaching the horse how to stop square? It’s a relatively easy step (no pun intended) to master with a little perseverance. One of my biggest pet peeves is watching Halter handlers shuffle from from leg to leg, manually placing each foot in just the right spot, when doing a little bit of basic repetitive training can make things look so effortless. If he comprehends “Whoa”, and he certainly should by now, I’ll use it to my advantage.

I’m going to be leading the horse to the desired spot I want him to stop and square up at, and this should vary each time he’s worked so he doesn’t expect it in any one location along the rail. Sometimes I’ll ask him in the center of the arena, sometimes I want to work him in a place outside the ring. Keep his mind working! Once I ask for him to stop, along with my verbal command I’m going to turn into, or toward, him, facing his shoulder and angled slightly toward his hindquarters. That’s his signal to come to a halt. More often than not, one hoof will be a little bit in front of or behind the other, and usually not too much distance will separate them. I like to work on the hind hooves first. Later on we'll start working on halting with me still facing forward, but I want him to get into my body language cues first.

To get him squared, I use my voice to encourage him to take a step -- one little step -- along with a very slight downward pull on the lead. Personally, I don’t bother using a shank chain with most horses when Halter schooling, I’d rather use a plain leadrope, at least in the beginning. Sometimes the horse will move too far, take too large of a step or move sideways, and there is nothing wrong with using a hand on his shoulder to push him back into position, just as you would a baby who’s learning to be halterbroke. If he’s fidgety or doesn’t want to stand, I’ll give him a reprimand for not paying attention. Once he places his hoof in the correct position, I’ll tell him “Whoa” and praise him. This lesson will need to be repeated several times until he fully understands. I do the same with the front feet, with the same amount of repetition. Once these easy steps are accomplished, I’ve got myself the makings of a Halter horse, at least in theory. Remember, the hallmark of a Halter horse is correct conformation and good movement, so no amount of training is going to make glaring faults disappear.

It’s pretty much the same with any other breed, including Morgans, Saddlebreds and Arabians, except for a few minor details. These breeds are expected to trot into the ring at a much faster, more animated pace than a stock breed animal, and there are slight differences in how classes for these breeds are run. Check the rulebook for your chosen breed in order to understand what they may be.

Back to the mechanics of showing, for a Saddlebred, Tennessee Walker or Morgan horse, the desired pose is called “parked” and the horse is in a stretched position, unlike horses we want more centered. They are usually encouraged to focus on an artificial appliance, such as a whip, held by the handler.

With Arabians, I like to see one hind leg (that furthest from where the judge will be standing to evaluate him) a bit further back than the other, but without too much of a spread or split. Use the same concepts, then teach the horse to use his body. This, of course, is what sets Arabian Halter horses apart from any other breed...the “show” which sometimes is judged as much as the horse’s conformation and beauty itself, much to my chagrin.

As important as the show stance is both walking and trotting in hand alongside you, where exhibiting animation in movement is essential in the show ring today. We will practice an arena entrance, circling and moving off strong and bold for several minutes each day before getting down to the Halter stance itself.

I really don’t want to go into too much minute detail, but I’ll try to outline the steps I take in achieving a lovely result and have the horse “show” for me. While teaching the Arabian Halter horse what’s become a standard part of his job, I’ll go back and reinforce the steps I’ve discussed above (which is a constant in each Halter lesson), then work up to what we commonly call “the look”. Since the end result we seek is the handler standing in front of the horse and the horse exerting effort to show himself off, I start by asking for a halt, then stepping toward the front of the horse facing him and walking away from him backwards several steps, during which I’ll raise the hand I’ve got my lead in and lightly bump him on the chin. He should automatically stop when I request him to do so and stand in place until I ask him to move forward. I’ll try to say “Whoa” just before his right hind hoof hits the ground. This helps during hoof placement, too. Then we move onto schooling.

I like to use either a bat end Halter whip or, for those horses either unphased by the whip or who fear it, a medium sized plastic whiffle bat, like those you may see young school children play with. It’s nothing that will hurt or traumatize him, but makes enough noise to get his attention if I need to tap him with it. Note: Tap not hit. We do not want to frighten the horse, just get an interested reaction!!

Once he’s used to me leading him then stepping toward his front while lifting my hand and asking him to halt, I’m going to insist he pays complete attention to my every move. If, when I ask this of him, the horse moves, I’ll IMMEDIATELY give him a sharp tap, but not too hard, with the bat or whiffle bat and tell him to back up. If he holds still for a few seconds, I’m going to drop my hand and IMMEDIATELY praise him. When I let him down and do that praising, I will be at his side -- I want him to learn the difference to where I am, that when I’m in front of him it’s time to work and when I retreat to his side, he can relax. As with performance horses, it’s important to always end training sessions on a good note.

Sometimes by this stage, instead of using only a leadrope I’ll put a captive chain on the halter. What this means is, the chain does not pull tight against the horse’s jaw, it’s passive rather than active. A captive chain goes thru the side rings on a halter and back to the snap, then hooks to the lead line snap on the end loop of the chain. Using a chain this way gives you a bit more emphasis on your cues, but doesn't make your horse terrified of being shanked like an active chain can if you’re being too harsh.

Another important step, and this goes for a horse of any breed, really, is to teach the horse to stand still while his handler walks around him. This basically serves two purposes. First, it teaches the horse to stand still even if his handler is not and second, it gets the horse used to someone, eventually the judge, walking along side and around him, showing him that it's nothing to worry about. Something to take note of: This should really be accomplished as a basic part of halterbreaking babies, and if not, it’s a good lesson for them to learn regardless, as it will carry them throughout their training.

Fast forward...after I’ve told the horse to "Whoa" and I’m standing in front of him with my hand holding the lead up in the air, I’ll step sideways one step (doesn't matter if left or right), but I won’t put any tension on the lead yet. I’ll remind the horse not to move by telling him "Whoa", then I’ll stop briefly and step back in front of him, dropping my hand. That’s his release. After which I’ll go the other way. If he’s stood still for me, I will again IMMEDIATELY step to his side and praise him. Remember, either punishment or praise must come within two to three seconds after an action for the horse to understand what it's for, and that goes for any horse in any situation. It can be a very useful tool.

If the horse moves a hoof when I step to the side, no matter how small a movement, I’m going to discipline him as before by asking him to back up. During this process, if I have to give him a little tap with the whiffle bat, it’s okay. If I have to resort to giving him a mild shanking (only one or two jerks snatching him, and not very hard) that's fine too. Backing the horse means showing dominance over him in his mind, which can actually be used as a form of discipline for all kinds of handling. At this point, once the horse stands still for one step to the side, I will add another step and so on until I reach my goal.

The whole process, to have the horse fully understand, should take approximately a week, depending on the horse. My goal will be to be able to step around to his flanks without him moving a foot. I’m going to take this in stages using small steps, and I won’t expect too much, too fast. One thing I always tell folks interested in becoming Arabian Halter handlers...horses will respond to the tone of your voice. If you're firm, they know you mean business. If you're gruff, they know they've done it wrong. If you use a quiet and soothing voice, they know they've done it right. The tone of your voice is a lot more important than what you say, but I want repetition in the words so they begin to associate certain words with good behavior and others for understanding when they’ve done wrong.

Training an Arabian Halter horse to stand properly is only a little bit more complicated than the stock breeds, though the process used to teach them how to stand is similar. For Arabians, I want the horse to position himself as I outlined earlier, and I’m going to use my voice along with my actions to get the desired stance. While introducing him to a new vocabulary, he should be fresh, so I don’t want to have overschooled him by the time I add new words. I’ve had good luck with using the word "Step" as a cue for setting a horse up, when I have the horse stopped but he’s a little off balance with his front feet. To explain, it’s when one front foot didn't finish the stride when he stopped and it's a considerable distance behind the other front foot. At this point I’ll pull the lead gently to the side opposite the front hoof that’s behind and tell the horse "Step". As soon as the horse takes that requested step, I’ll tell him “Whoa” and I will IMMEDIATELY praise him. I want to be able to maneuver him about anywhere I want him with his only reaction taking little baby steps to each of my requests. Once he’s gotten than down, by now he’s pretty much ready to move on.

The next step in Halter training an Arabian horse is teaching him to give his neck. This will either be rather easy or quite difficult, with not much in between, depending on the individual horse. Some horses like to do this and some don't. Those that don't are a real challenge, so we have to find exercises which will stimulate them into giving the desired response. During the initial stages of this part of his training, I’m not concerned about hoof placement, just that he doesn't move when I ask for his neck.

To start, I’ll just ask the horse to give his neck down to the ground. In other words, I want him to stretch his neck toward me -- WITHOUT moving a hoof. This will teach him not to just thrust his neck out forward and it’s usually a rather natural movement for the horse, making it fairly easy on him, unlike my desired end result. This is also teaching him to essentially move away from pressure on his poll, and down is the most direct way for him to do this. I’ll be crouched down in front of the horse and holding my hand (with the whip or whiffle bat) out to him. True, it’s a very dangerous position to be in and it is imperative the horse not be allowed to move, but necessary for getting what we’re seeking out of him. Then I’ll start firmly but gently pulling the horse toward my outstretched hand. If he gives to the pressure, even if it's just an inch, I’ll stop pulling and touch his nose, praising him.

Some horses are very willing to come to your hand, because of basic curiosity, while others are rather reluctant. At this stage of training, I’ll often use treats, and I like to have something with me in the show ring which will elicit the response I want, be it carrots, cookies, peppermints, sugar cubes or something else the horse I’m showing likes. I’ll continue with this same pattern until the horse will bring his nose to my hand very low and near to the ground. His release is always touching my hand, and I’ll then allow him to come back up for a moment before asking again. This may take one session or many, depending on the horse, before he gives an automatic response, and I don’t want to make any particular session too long.

Once he’ll touch my hand at the ground, I can begin asking for his neck up higher. Some horses will naturally give their neck with muscles tensed, but many won't. For those that don't, use some sort of trigger to get the desired effect. You can bring any number of things before him in order to get a reaction, such as a plastic bag, a piece of paper or your hat, to name a few things. You don’t want to scare him, only to get his curiosity up enough to give you an expressive look. It takes time and a bit of experimentation to find each horse’s “hot button”. Here’s where you can use something the likes of clicker training to bring it all home. The horse will need something which gives me the same response as whatever I’ve used to get expression out of him, some sort of cue to replace that trigger.

By the time he has the idea of giving his neck, it’s time to put all the steps he’s learned above together and get him to “show” for you. He will now need to be taught to rock back, shifting his weight onto his hindquarters, elevating his neck out of the shoulder for a more sleek appearance and tightening all of his muscles. With this, I want to accomplish the finishing touch -- a horse who’s bright, alert and “showy”. There are five basic means to get him rocked back on cue and ready to show. First, a bump on the chin with the captive chain, by snapping the lead lightly toward him. Second, a slight jerk downward on the lead. Third, a slight jerk upward on the lead. Fourth, a tap mid-neck with the whiffle bat (and later, the Halter whip). And fifth, a bold step toward the horse to express that he needs to rock back.

Remember: The goal is NOT to frighten, threaten or intimidate him, but gain his respect and get a response. My method is to bring all five of these techniques together so we can find what works best for each horse.

The last type of class shown on a lead shank and judged on the horse is Sport Horse In Hand, long a familiar and popular offering in the Open Hunter/Jumper and Dressage world and used extensively with Warmblood breeds (though with different names), now rocketing in entries at Arabian shows. The basic difference between traditional Halter and the Sport Horse division is that SH classes are judged based not on beauty contest standards of conformation, but on putting the horse to work in a form-to-function manner.

Horses are either shown in a leather stable halter (for those two years and younger) or a nice working English bridle, and he may be lead with a shank or the reins. The handler should be dressed neatly in workman-like attire, but casual, instead of the Western outfits seen in the stock breeds or the showy dress or suits of those handlers in other breeds. There are also two different patterns, either the “v” or “triangle”. The horse is lead into the arena and stood up in front of the judge.

Setting up is neither the squared of Quarter Horses and Paints, nor the parked stance of Morgans and Saddlebreds, and it’s not that show position of an Arabian. With the Open division (commonly encountered at ‘A’ rated Hunter/Jumper or Dressage shows), horses are expected to stand normally and perhaps a little bit square. With Arabian SHIH entries, the legs should be “scissored”, meaning on the left [or right] side of the horse, the front leg should be placed forward and the hind leg placed back; on the right [or left] side of the horse, the front leg should be placed back and the hind leg placed forward. The judge wants a complete view of the horse’s legs from the side, but he shouldn’t be stretched out too far. His expression should be pleasant and he should be well behaved.

Once the judge has evaluated the horse’s conformation, his handler will walk him off on the first short leg of the triangle, to view him walking from behind. Then following a turn to the right, the horse will be walked along the longer stretch of the triangle, in order to get a side view. Finally, after one more turn to the right, the horse will be walked back straight toward the judge to give him or her a frontal view of the horse in motion at the walk. After this is completed, the horse will be trotted in a larger triangle. First away so the judge can get that rear view, then across for a side view, then back for a view of the horse from the front. One tip to keep in mind is to make the short legs while trotting slow and easy, but show speed and, more importantly, impulsion for the side view. The same to a lesser degree is desired at the walk, with a good brisk pace when giving that all-important side view.

Okay, now you’ve gotten a thorough education in how to train just about any Halter horse and you know what to expect in the show ring. How about the classes you may find on the show bill?

At the various open, all breed, shows offered, there are a wide range of Halter classes, some for babies, yearlings, in some instances two year olds, then for mares, geldings and stallions. Generally you’ll find classes split by different breeds, too, like Arabian and Quarter Horse. Most have “Color” classes, for Paints, Pintos, Appaloosas, palominos, buckskins and duns. Then there will probably be an “Open” halter class where all horses are welcome as entries.

When you get to breed shows, more often than not you’ll have the opportunity to enter just one class, as each sex will be divided into age groups, like yearling colts, two year old colts, three year old colts, four & five year old stallions and six years and older stallions. Some breeds offer special classes for Amateur handlers and Youth or Junior handlers. In the Arabian breed, what used to be called “Halter” classes are now designated as “Mare (or Filly) Breeding”, “Stallion (or Colt) Breeding” and “Gelding In Hand”. There are also the aforementioned Sport Horse In Hand classes, which will be split by age of horse and sex.

Universally, judges are looking for horses who epitomize their breed and show characteristics of a good example of that breed. Behavior is important, too, as unruly or rank horses aren’t good specimens. Poor conformation and faults will be counted against Halter horses, so a handler shouldn’t be surprised if his beautiful horse with crooked front legs doesn’t place well in hand, even if he’s a National or World Champion pleasure horse. The criteria are simply different.

In all, welcome to the world of Halter and enjoy your stay!

~SFTS

What I Am Thankful For...

2009-11-26T06:34:00.000-08:00

This year I have so very much to be thankful for.

My wonderful husband; kind, patient, understanding, supportive and hard working.

My amazing daughter; sweet, talented, beautiful, giving and intelligent.

My terrific family; helpful, protective, knowledgeable, loyal and fun loving.

My tremendous clients; I couldn't ask for a better group of people behind me ~~ you are all the best of the best.

My phenomenal horses; I am truly blessed to have such magnificent horseflesh in my life ~~ the love you give me will always be returned a thousand-fold.

And not least of all, my incredible friends; without you I am nothing ~~ thank you from the bottom of my heart for always believing in me.

Have a wonderful Thanksgiving everyone.

~SFTS

Merry-Go-Round: Tips On Training (Or Re-Training) The Nervous Horse

2009-11-25T06:44:00.000-08:00

There is an old saying which goes, Nervous Rider, Nervous Horse. Truer words have rarely been spoken. If you tend to get tense, your horse is going to sense that and your ride more than likely won’t be a pleasant one.

When I first begin working with a horse who tends to be nervous and jittery, while I don’t necessarily vary from how I deal with any horse, I’ll be especially mindful of how much spook the horse has. Actually what I find is that those horses you don’t expect to spook are the ones that cause more problems, because you aren’t prepared for them to explode at any moment. If working with a horse you know tends to spook or bolt you are actually at an advantage, believe it or not.

From there, I’m going to start working on de-spooking the horse (also called “sacking out” or teaching the horse to “spook in place” if he’s particularly frightened of something). What I’ll be doing is essentially showing the horse a way to express fear and trepidation without doing something which can be dangerous to both of us. Exposing him to things which frighten him and getting him to face those fears is a good start. Just keep in mind, as riders, the more nervous we are, the more we transmit that to our horses, so we have to keep our cool no matter what.

Some horses are nervous in an arena and do fine on the trail. Others feel more secure with that arena fence around them and panic in the wide open world. After identifying what sort of horse I‘m working with, we can begin tackling those fears and nervous habits. I prefer to work the horse in the early stages in a round pen (as I like to begin all my horses), ideally one made of open pipe panels rather than a solid wall bull pen. While I like solid walls for working horses in longlines when I want their total focus to be on their job and on me, such as already trained horses that need a refresher, re-schooling or just conditioning, having those open panels can really aide you in training a horse who has a penchant for nervousness, because you’re forcing them to refocus on YOU as opposed to whatever they’re nervous about, and most nervous horses spend a great deal of time looking around gawking at whatever they think they should be afraid of.

Some of the exercises will include walk and halt with bending toward me and maintaining focus when I introduce something scary, such as a plastic bag, a flag, a tarp or whatever the horse finds scary. Letting him know it’s okay to be fearful as long as he doesn’t react is just perfect. Plenty of rewards await the horse who choose the right path! Obviously keeping his attention and not allowing him to get distracted by whatever he may find scary is what we’re working on, but we have to bear in mind that he may not react the same under saddle.

Now, if he tends to be fine on the ground but nervous once you swing your leg over his back, frequently that’s caused not by an inherently nervous nature in the horse, but instilled in the horse by a prior rider, and it’s something we also have to overcome.

Again, starting in the round pen my goal is going to be a relaxed, easy ride where the horse feels little if any tension. One of the biggest benefits of a round pen is you don’t have to worry about him taking off and being able to buck his way across a large arena. Sure, he can get moving and yeah, he may be able to buck (if you allow him to get his head down), but you can control it so much better. If something does spook him, you can easily let him run it out until he decides that running isn’t getting him anywhere but tired. Hopefully, though, we’re going to avoid that entirely, because we’re instilling confidence in him by not being that nervous rider.

Something I always tell my clients and students is that your hands on those reins work like a power cord to the horse’s mouth. If you are scared or nervous, he’s going to pick up on that immediately. When the horse senses you fear something, his immediate reaction is going to be that THERE IS A REASON you’re afraid and therefore, he needs to be afraid, too! How we combat this is to ride confidently and keep our hands quiet, soft and relaxed. Easier said than done sometimes, but it is crucial to the success of training (or retraining) a nervous horse.

After settling into the saddle, I’ll ask him to stand quietly and relax with a loose rein. He must stand there, not fidget, no chomping on the bit, head shaking, pawing or any other willful disobedience. If he starts on of those behaviors, I am going to take up one rein, put the opposite leg into his side and ask for a bend until he gives in, not longer than perhaps 10 seconds. Once I release him, I expect what I asked for in the first place. If I can get the right reaction, I’ll ask him to move forward in a nice, easy, relaxed walk. This is where many horses begin to fall apart, or at least fall into their nervous habit by wanting to jig or dance around. Under no circumstances is that to be allowed and in no uncertain terms I’m going to let the horse know such behavior is unacceptable. As soon as he begins the prancing or jigging, I’ll quietly and quickly stop him and ask for that bend as explained above. He needs to stop, pay attention and relax before I release him, and backing is not allowed, because I don’t want him to learn that backing is an acceptable manner of evading my request.

Eventually, though how long it takes depends on the individual horse, you can get a terrific walk on a relatively loose rein, once the horse understands there is nothing to fret over. It can take a long time, particularly considering that inherent nervousness isn’t exactly something you can explain out of the horse, but you will get there! We should then be able to move into an easy jog-trot and come back down again in a relaxed manner. From there we’ll repeat the same steps in an arena.

I will also spend a LOT of time stopping the horse, dropping my reins down toward his neck and insisting that he stand relaxed. By now he should understand that command, and what it means (stop, relax and stand still without fretting). By that time, you can begin doing the same out on the trail.

At first, instead of heading away from the other horses (and most nervous nellie’s hate leaving their buddies behind!), just wander around the farm, occasionally stopping and asking for that bend and flex. Then gradually begin heading down the driveway and around the corner.

Before long, voila -- your problem is cured as long as you remain relaxed when you handle or ride your horse.

~SFTS

Basic Veterinary Needs For Horses: What Every Horse Owner Should Know

2009-11-24T15:18:00.000-08:00

Anyone who has owned horses (or been around them) for any length of time knows there are certain recurring veterinary expenses that we have to deal with, such as regular de-worming, whether a feed-through supplement or that which is given in a paste tube, along with annual or bi-annual vaccinations for various diseases. It’s expected and just a part of having our very own horse.

I also have an entire cupboard devoted to veterinary needs and remedies for my horses, so I have a variety of treatments available for many various issues.

A few days ago I explored first aid for horses, such as what you need to keep on hand for those emergency situations where you must begin immediate treatment before your horse can be seen by the veterinarian (like during an especially busy time for emergencies, which happens to the best of us), but there are also things that you should have filed away in your memory as well as certain skills vital to being a good horse owner.

One of these things is being able to tell when your horse isn’t feeling well and what to do about it.

I know pretty much immediately if one of my horses (and fairly quickly with a client horse in my care) is not his or her usual self. There are subtle (and sometimes not so subtle) clues about how they feel, but you really need to be able to spot even minor variances in a horse’s behavior. None of my horses ever lays down during the day unless it’s Winter and the weather was brutally cold overnight.

I will never forget the first time I looked out the window one brisk morning after moving to a vastly different climate (during March, no less) only to notice every single horse was laying down out in the sun. I nearly panicked! Those horses didn’t lay down during the day, there HAD to be something wrong! But no, they were just trying to warm up because it was much colder overnight than they had been used to and it felt good to stretch out in the warm sunshine.

But what if you have observed unusual behavior in your horse -- do you know how to handle the situation and what to do next? How do you determine when you need to call the vet or if you can handle the circumstances on your own?

Most importantly, do you have a mobile vet available and, if not, do you have a means of getting your horse to the clinic or equine hospital (your own truck and trailer, a friend with a rig or phone numbers of those who offer local emergency transport)?

My personal veterinarian used to require that owners haul horses to his hospital for treatment and routine care as well, though they do offer mobile services again. There are a couple of doctors in a pinch I can call out if absolutely necessary, which is also always a good idea, to have the names and numbers of vets other than your regular practitioner. We have a severe shortage of vets in our area, which can lead to most basic vet care being pricier, and rendering emergency care astronomical in cost.

Okay, back on topic. Because, as I mentioned above, I know my horses and I make it my job to become accustomed to my clients’ horses and their daily habits or routines, it’s easy for me to know fairly early on if there is a problem that needs attention. We should all do the same for each and every horse we care for, which may save some of us a great deal of grief and expense down the road.

Be observant!

If you notice something out of character or out of place, check it out. Better safe than sorry. If the horse is laying down more than is normal for that horse, get them up, check gums for color, eyes for brightness, listen for gut sounds and glance around the stall or paddock to see if there’s any reasonably fresh manure or any other signs of elimination.

Also of vital importance is to check up on his water intake -- the more water a horse consumes (up to a point), the better. If he lives with other horses, move him to a separate stall so you can monitor him alone, at least for a while.

If all clues (or at least most of them) point toward a colic episode, begin walking the horse in an effort to help him pass whatever may be causing the symptoms. Remember, all colic is, really, is stomach pain or discomfort, it is not a stand alone illness, and may or may not need more intensive treatment. Some horses are prone to colicking, some rarely exhibit any of the telltale signs.

Generally I will administer a dose of Banamine just before I begin the walking regimen, which helps to ease the pain and calm much of the muscle cramping and stress. If the horse passes manure or gas and begins to appear like he’s feeling better within a reasonable amount of time, wonderful. If you see no improvement within an hour (or immediately if you notice things deteriorating), call your vet. It’s actually not a bad idea to alert your veterinarian at the earliest onset of symptoms, even if only by contacting their emergency exchange, to let him or her be aware you have something going on with your horse that they may need to treat.

Be prepared, however, when you do speak with your vet (or their answering service), to explain in detail what’s going on, what you think may be wrong and what you have observed, because they will ask you so they can best determine the course of action and how high of a priority the situation with your horse needs to be on their list.

Sometimes a horse will injure itself and it will be something you can easily treat yourself, other times you will need to get a vet’s care.

Keep a close eye on your equine and gather as much understanding as you can about his or her normal activities and how they look. You might be called on to save his or her life one day!

~SFTS