This is going to be a super short post this morning because I don't have much time to be writing today. Our next ETI Corral 88 meeting is this evening and we're going to be making all sorts of plans for the year so don't miss out. Lots of trail rides and other activities for local horse owners.
I'm judging at the Mustang-Spirit horse rescue ACTHA Competitive Trail Challenge this weekend. If you are not familiar with ACTHA, check them out here ~ ~ it's a really cool organization and their rides are too much fun.
Thanks so much for reading...see you in the show ring or out on the trail!!
Thursday, January 26, 2012
Wednesday, January 25, 2012
And They’re Off! Retraining The Ex-Racehorse
These days, a very common means of acquiring an inexpensive horse is to get yourself what we commonly refer to as an "OTTB" (which stands for Off Track Thoroughbred racehorse). Sure, people have been taking these horses and giving them a second career for ages, but in a poor economy there are both more horses in need of being moved into new homes off the racetrack and fewer people who can afford to buy a more expensive already trained (or in this case re-trained) horse.
Some of you may not know that as a general rule, racehorses are on an extremely high grain diet, which along with being in peak condition after coming off the track and expecting the same conditions in his life that he's always known can make things a challenge. At least these days most racehorses aren't being pumped full of anabolic steroids, because they're not allowed on the racetrack anymore, though there could easily be high energy feeds as well as other drugs in their systems. A majority of horses that come off the track have suffered some sort of career ending injury, and you can bet it's been treated with something. With those OTTB's I've dealt with, I prefer to give them a good 60 days to "let down" and learn how to be a normal horse. During this time, all I'm going to be giving them is high quality hay and perhaps a low starch, low carb ration mixed with probiotics.
It's always a good idea to have your veterinarian thoroughly check the horse out and give you a game plan to ensure the horse is in good health as well as to make note of any physical issues or injuries. Ulcers are quite common in many racehorses as well, which can easily be diagnosed by your veterinarian. Okay, sometimes not so easily...however keeping your eyes open as to the symptoms of an ulcer horse and treating a horse with such symptoms can go a long ways toward making him healthy and happy. If it turns out he doesn't have ulcers after all, the treatments for that condition won't hurt him.
Supposing, for the sake of this article, the horse you've recently taken in off the racetrack is healthy and sound, you'll need to develop a work plan to teach him how to go along with his new routine. Contrary to popular belief, my experience with OTTB's has largely been they come around amazingly quickly and it really is not all that difficult to get them moved into other jobs. By nature they're extremely athletic and most of them have an exceptionally strong work ethic. One of the places I start with a horse fresh off the racetrack is to teach them how to crosstie. What I've found is that most of them have no idea how the process works and they tend to be confused. I'll approach this training essentially the same as I do with teaching babies how to tie in the first place.
Another often perplexing and difficult thing you will have to deal with when taking one of these horses off the track is leading. Starting at the beginning with basic "whoa" lessons and training on the leadline, just like with tying, you can avoid most issues. Many former racehorses have never really been taught to respect their handler's space and tend to crowd. This does not need to be made into a major ordeal, just simple common sense and methodical training, again just like a baby. All of your ground work will essentially be like starting fresh from scratch, only easier because they have had a considerable amount of training already and they do know what it's like to have a rider on their backs.
Progressing along, I want to accustom the horse to training on the longeline, in a bitting rig, in longlines and other basic ground work. We've also found over the years that having small obstacles to negotiate (such as ground poles to walk over and so forth) helps these horses immensely with understanding where their feet are and basic body control that's accomplished with most two and three year old pleasure, show or trail horses. I like to use such training as ground work (and later under saddle work) for all horses. Even the older already trained or finished horses go back to ground work on occasion.
I always re-start the off track horses identically to every other horse with very few exceptions. Obviously, they need to get used to a much heavier saddle than they've ever carried (particularly because I get on them for the first couple of weeks in a Western saddle until they're going forward confidently, and sometimes regularly thereafter). Mounting is another issue that hopefully won't become problematic. To diffuse most situations which can arise with mounting one of these horses, I make sure they're trained to stand at a mounting block before ever thinking about getting on, because usually I don't have someone handy to boost me into the saddle as the horse will be expecting.
Using a mounting block and training a horse to stand next to one is not difficult either, but like any type of training we do, patience is a must. You should have already gone over "whoa" training and the horse should fully understand that word means STOP NOW, cease all movement and plant your feet! Don't make a big deal out of any mis-step, go back and repeat each exercise or concept until the horse cooperates every time. Just like with starting a baby for the first time, I like to make sure to spend some time in one stirrup, 'hanging' off the side of the horse, and I repeat this on both sides. Eventually, you will be able to mount up from the ground with no problem. Since many (if not most) racehorses, at least in my experience, want to walk or even trot off as soon as you mount up, this is an area you'll want to spend a good deal of extra time on.
I always use a round pen or small enclosed area to get on any horse for the first time in training, if you don't have access to a round pen, you can use an uncovered 24x24 pipe paddock...just don't ride under a shelter (which can be hazardous to your health)! This way, with a former racehorse, I don't worry about being ponied or led ~ the horse knows what being ridden means and they understand how to follow the fence. Staying out of the horse's face is vitally important, you can retrain them to accept and understand contact in time. First rides on an off track horse for me usually are walking, with a little bit of "follow your face" in circles using a leading rein with plenty of slack on the off side of your turn.
These horses have been taught to take hold of the bit as opposed to yielding to it, so take the time to help them slowly learn what it means to give. Voluminous praise when he does something right, and if you prefer, a treat (though I'm still not the most keen person on treat training) will go a long ways toward helping him understand what you want and comply with your requests in a relaxed manner. Soon your ex-racer will be a willing partner.
Another thing your retired racehorse must become accustomed to is your legs against his sides as well as your seat in the saddle. Straightness will come later on, using only light contact with your legs and concentrating on getting the horse to relax is the task at hand for these early rides. By that I mean you'll probably spend most of your time at this stage bending the horse, allowing him to stretch down (which they learn quickly to enjoy) and if he starts to get nervous or act like he's going to launch into a familiar gallop, taking a cross hold until he yields. As long as you stay consistent and don't let his nerves get to you, you'll both be fine.
One of the last tests you'll need to make sure the ex-racehorse passes is being ridden with other horses, first in the arena and later on, if you desire, on the trail. Being naturally socialized animals who prefer to live in the company of other horses, most of them adjust easily and don't revert to their prior training (catch the other horse, pass the other horse) as long as you make it easy for them to do the right thing and listen to you. My favorite means of getting them out with others is to have the quietest horse in the barn as their riding partner, the horse that nothing bothers, nothing upsets and does not spook.
Of course, if you are a novice or newbie horse owner, I DO NOT suggest getting a former racehorse. While these horses are a ton of fun, be sure you are fully prepared for the task at hand. Whether in the show ring or going down the trail, you'll be sure to have the time of your life.
~SFTS
Some of you may not know that as a general rule, racehorses are on an extremely high grain diet, which along with being in peak condition after coming off the track and expecting the same conditions in his life that he's always known can make things a challenge. At least these days most racehorses aren't being pumped full of anabolic steroids, because they're not allowed on the racetrack anymore, though there could easily be high energy feeds as well as other drugs in their systems. A majority of horses that come off the track have suffered some sort of career ending injury, and you can bet it's been treated with something. With those OTTB's I've dealt with, I prefer to give them a good 60 days to "let down" and learn how to be a normal horse. During this time, all I'm going to be giving them is high quality hay and perhaps a low starch, low carb ration mixed with probiotics.
It's always a good idea to have your veterinarian thoroughly check the horse out and give you a game plan to ensure the horse is in good health as well as to make note of any physical issues or injuries. Ulcers are quite common in many racehorses as well, which can easily be diagnosed by your veterinarian. Okay, sometimes not so easily...however keeping your eyes open as to the symptoms of an ulcer horse and treating a horse with such symptoms can go a long ways toward making him healthy and happy. If it turns out he doesn't have ulcers after all, the treatments for that condition won't hurt him.
Supposing, for the sake of this article, the horse you've recently taken in off the racetrack is healthy and sound, you'll need to develop a work plan to teach him how to go along with his new routine. Contrary to popular belief, my experience with OTTB's has largely been they come around amazingly quickly and it really is not all that difficult to get them moved into other jobs. By nature they're extremely athletic and most of them have an exceptionally strong work ethic. One of the places I start with a horse fresh off the racetrack is to teach them how to crosstie. What I've found is that most of them have no idea how the process works and they tend to be confused. I'll approach this training essentially the same as I do with teaching babies how to tie in the first place.
Another often perplexing and difficult thing you will have to deal with when taking one of these horses off the track is leading. Starting at the beginning with basic "whoa" lessons and training on the leadline, just like with tying, you can avoid most issues. Many former racehorses have never really been taught to respect their handler's space and tend to crowd. This does not need to be made into a major ordeal, just simple common sense and methodical training, again just like a baby. All of your ground work will essentially be like starting fresh from scratch, only easier because they have had a considerable amount of training already and they do know what it's like to have a rider on their backs.
Progressing along, I want to accustom the horse to training on the longeline, in a bitting rig, in longlines and other basic ground work. We've also found over the years that having small obstacles to negotiate (such as ground poles to walk over and so forth) helps these horses immensely with understanding where their feet are and basic body control that's accomplished with most two and three year old pleasure, show or trail horses. I like to use such training as ground work (and later under saddle work) for all horses. Even the older already trained or finished horses go back to ground work on occasion.
I always re-start the off track horses identically to every other horse with very few exceptions. Obviously, they need to get used to a much heavier saddle than they've ever carried (particularly because I get on them for the first couple of weeks in a Western saddle until they're going forward confidently, and sometimes regularly thereafter). Mounting is another issue that hopefully won't become problematic. To diffuse most situations which can arise with mounting one of these horses, I make sure they're trained to stand at a mounting block before ever thinking about getting on, because usually I don't have someone handy to boost me into the saddle as the horse will be expecting.
Using a mounting block and training a horse to stand next to one is not difficult either, but like any type of training we do, patience is a must. You should have already gone over "whoa" training and the horse should fully understand that word means STOP NOW, cease all movement and plant your feet! Don't make a big deal out of any mis-step, go back and repeat each exercise or concept until the horse cooperates every time. Just like with starting a baby for the first time, I like to make sure to spend some time in one stirrup, 'hanging' off the side of the horse, and I repeat this on both sides. Eventually, you will be able to mount up from the ground with no problem. Since many (if not most) racehorses, at least in my experience, want to walk or even trot off as soon as you mount up, this is an area you'll want to spend a good deal of extra time on.
I always use a round pen or small enclosed area to get on any horse for the first time in training, if you don't have access to a round pen, you can use an uncovered 24x24 pipe paddock...just don't ride under a shelter (which can be hazardous to your health)! This way, with a former racehorse, I don't worry about being ponied or led ~ the horse knows what being ridden means and they understand how to follow the fence. Staying out of the horse's face is vitally important, you can retrain them to accept and understand contact in time. First rides on an off track horse for me usually are walking, with a little bit of "follow your face" in circles using a leading rein with plenty of slack on the off side of your turn.
These horses have been taught to take hold of the bit as opposed to yielding to it, so take the time to help them slowly learn what it means to give. Voluminous praise when he does something right, and if you prefer, a treat (though I'm still not the most keen person on treat training) will go a long ways toward helping him understand what you want and comply with your requests in a relaxed manner. Soon your ex-racer will be a willing partner.
Another thing your retired racehorse must become accustomed to is your legs against his sides as well as your seat in the saddle. Straightness will come later on, using only light contact with your legs and concentrating on getting the horse to relax is the task at hand for these early rides. By that I mean you'll probably spend most of your time at this stage bending the horse, allowing him to stretch down (which they learn quickly to enjoy) and if he starts to get nervous or act like he's going to launch into a familiar gallop, taking a cross hold until he yields. As long as you stay consistent and don't let his nerves get to you, you'll both be fine.
One of the last tests you'll need to make sure the ex-racehorse passes is being ridden with other horses, first in the arena and later on, if you desire, on the trail. Being naturally socialized animals who prefer to live in the company of other horses, most of them adjust easily and don't revert to their prior training (catch the other horse, pass the other horse) as long as you make it easy for them to do the right thing and listen to you. My favorite means of getting them out with others is to have the quietest horse in the barn as their riding partner, the horse that nothing bothers, nothing upsets and does not spook.
Of course, if you are a novice or newbie horse owner, I DO NOT suggest getting a former racehorse. While these horses are a ton of fun, be sure you are fully prepared for the task at hand. Whether in the show ring or going down the trail, you'll be sure to have the time of your life.
~SFTS
Tuesday, January 24, 2012
What Should My Horse’s Job Be? And How Can I Help Him Be The Best He Can Be?
This is a topic I’ve covered previously, however it’s a good one and there are many different schools of thought on how a horse can wear multiple hats, or I guess better put, multiple saddles, literally speaking. Recently a friend who’s a diehard fan of Western Pleasure started dabbling in Dressage (well, the owner did not, the owner’s horse did with his trainer). My response was a huge resounding cheer, and not only because I fully believe the horse is capable of being a competitive Dressage horse.
Let’s put it this way, ANY horse can make a Dressage prospect, and many can become competitive on the local level or at the lower levels, including those who are athletic enough to be Western horses. Yes, you read that right. In order to be a competitive Western mount a horse has to be supremely athletic, just as those competing in most English disciplines.
So now we’re going to get down to the business at hand. We can start by examining the horse piece by piece conformationally and deciding what he’s bound to excel at. Obviously, if you’ve got a great big 17 hand Thoroughbred, one of the first things that will come to mind is jumping. If your horse has done Dressage, it’s not much of a stretch to train that horse to go over fences.
But what if your horse happens to be a little, petite Arabian or a Quarter Horse who’s relatively short in stature, yet rather rotund? Either should be able to do Intro Level Dressage in addition to whatever else they usually excel in. Now, this might sound like nothing more than an advertisement for the United States Dressage Federation, however that’s not the case at all. Many local clubs put on unrated Dressage shows, and your horse doesn’t even need to be a Warmblood in order to compete successfully!
What about if you’ve always competed in English classes and would like to explore Western for a change? Not every horse will have the capability to be an ideal Western Pleasure horse, but there are a variety of things you can do with your horse under Western tack where he’s not going to be required to totally change his frame or way of going. Trail is one of those classes, as long as he doesn’t mind obstacles. If he’s gone over fences in his “former life”, getting over some trail obstacles without making a mess of them should not be a problem. Other alternatives are Team Sorting or Team Penning, both of which are a barrel of fun, you just need to make sure your horse deals with being around running cattle.
Your short answer on how to make your horse be the best he can be is easy: Training. I’m not advising you to spend beaucoup dollars sending your horse out to the top trainer in whatever discipline you’re thinking about transitioning your horse over into, simply seeking out a good instructor to help you with your own training. If your horse is already trained, adding something new to his repertoire is not going to be all that hard.
Most importantly, have fun!! After all, that is what owning, riding, training and competing on horses is all about!!
~SFTS
Let’s put it this way, ANY horse can make a Dressage prospect, and many can become competitive on the local level or at the lower levels, including those who are athletic enough to be Western horses. Yes, you read that right. In order to be a competitive Western mount a horse has to be supremely athletic, just as those competing in most English disciplines.
So now we’re going to get down to the business at hand. We can start by examining the horse piece by piece conformationally and deciding what he’s bound to excel at. Obviously, if you’ve got a great big 17 hand Thoroughbred, one of the first things that will come to mind is jumping. If your horse has done Dressage, it’s not much of a stretch to train that horse to go over fences.
But what if your horse happens to be a little, petite Arabian or a Quarter Horse who’s relatively short in stature, yet rather rotund? Either should be able to do Intro Level Dressage in addition to whatever else they usually excel in. Now, this might sound like nothing more than an advertisement for the United States Dressage Federation, however that’s not the case at all. Many local clubs put on unrated Dressage shows, and your horse doesn’t even need to be a Warmblood in order to compete successfully!
What about if you’ve always competed in English classes and would like to explore Western for a change? Not every horse will have the capability to be an ideal Western Pleasure horse, but there are a variety of things you can do with your horse under Western tack where he’s not going to be required to totally change his frame or way of going. Trail is one of those classes, as long as he doesn’t mind obstacles. If he’s gone over fences in his “former life”, getting over some trail obstacles without making a mess of them should not be a problem. Other alternatives are Team Sorting or Team Penning, both of which are a barrel of fun, you just need to make sure your horse deals with being around running cattle.
Your short answer on how to make your horse be the best he can be is easy: Training. I’m not advising you to spend beaucoup dollars sending your horse out to the top trainer in whatever discipline you’re thinking about transitioning your horse over into, simply seeking out a good instructor to help you with your own training. If your horse is already trained, adding something new to his repertoire is not going to be all that hard.
Most importantly, have fun!! After all, that is what owning, riding, training and competing on horses is all about!!
~SFTS
Monday, January 23, 2012
A Rider's Foundation ~ Part I
Most of the time when I write this blog, I speak of training the horse. After all, the concept here is about training horses and all of the various methods, techniques or philosophies thereof. But something we can never forget is the rider, because without the rider, we would have no trained horse to ride.
Unless you happen to be an extremely naturally athletic individual, learning to ride will be a difficult journey and you will need to learn entirely new skills, as well as be able to apply them to an animal with a mind of its own. There are so many things to learn and so many ways you can learn them, which means both good and bad. I personally prefer to teach the absolute beginner starting from scratch, as opposed to the rider who has already formed some sort of opinion (and along with it often some bad habits) on how best to do things on horseback. Let's concentrate on bringing along the beginner student in this installment, which means we need to run through a series of lessons, starting from the beginning.
After we get the horse groomed, tacked and out to the round pen or arena, our lesson is going to begin with the student mounting the horse. Depending on several factors, we will either mount from the ground or off a mounting block. Either way, the rider's right hand should firmly grip the left stirrup and the other should be on the reins at the base of the horse's neck. Once the left foot is in the stirrup, the rider should move that hand to the front of the saddle, and swing up onto the horse's back. The taller the horse, the more challenging this task is, which is why we may utilize a mounting block. After the rider is settled in the saddle, I'll set about showing them proper position. Starting with the seat, legs, arms, hands and shoulders, I'm going to explain at each step what I'm looking for and why.
I want my riders settled in the saddle, not perched forward or slouched back. Riders need to be aware of how to properly sit (which seems positively simple, doesn't it?), and keep their weight distributed evenly. A rider's legs should be relaxed and against the side of the horse, with no pressure applied when standing still. Weight resting on the ball of the foot, with heels down, toes mostly forward. I say "mostly" forward, because the old train of thought from 30 or so years ago was that the toes should be pointed STRAIGHT forward, which I find awkward and incorrect for proper riding. Toes should never be pointed outward or down, though when cueing the horse there is room for a slight variance as you rotate your calves into the horse. Having the stirrups properly adjusted will go a very long way toward being able to ride correctly and communicate effectively with your horse.
To be effective (you'll hear me say that word a lot), a rider's arms should be at their side, though exactly where varies depending on the discipline they're riding. I start out all my beginner riders Western, and using two hands on the reins with a snaffle bit in the horse's mouth, so we begin with a basic position. Arms from the shoulder to the elbow relatively straight at the side, if slightly ahead of the hip. I want to see a nice bend in the elbow, though generally not more than 90 degrees unless cueing the horse. As the rider advances (on a trained or finished horse), the need for more bend becomes less. Ideally, I'd like to see a relatively straight line from elbow to the horse's mouth.
Hand position is vital because of how much communication you can do with your hands. I don't want to see a rider's hands too close together, as many trainers have them start out. Opening up the distance slightly will increase your ability to communicate with your horse. They should not be held too close to the horse, nor too high above the saddle. In a Western saddle, those hands will be higher than while riding most types of English, other than Saddleseat (and even then, when first starting out, I'll have my riders keep their hands lower than ideal for the show ring).
One of my basic tenets of good riding is, no death grip on the reins! I want the rider's hands softly closed around the reins with thumbs slightly bent upward, not horizontal to the horse's withers. Wrists should not be bent backward or forward (sometimes referred to as "puppy paws"), but in line with the arms. Shoulders should be back but relaxed, not rigid -- something I really don't like to see are the riders who arch their backs and artificially pull their shoulders back to the extremes. This makes for exceptionally ineffective riding. All of these tips can help a rider to become competent, gain seat control and not balance on their horse's mouth using the reins.
Now that we have the basics, in a future installment we can continue the lesson. Remember, riding is a learned skill. Don’t worry if everything isn’t picture perfect the first time, with time your skills will improve as long as you take it slow. Just like with our horses, skipping steps will show up in your riding. I always recommend taking lessons with a skilled instructor who understands your needs.
~SFTS
Unless you happen to be an extremely naturally athletic individual, learning to ride will be a difficult journey and you will need to learn entirely new skills, as well as be able to apply them to an animal with a mind of its own. There are so many things to learn and so many ways you can learn them, which means both good and bad. I personally prefer to teach the absolute beginner starting from scratch, as opposed to the rider who has already formed some sort of opinion (and along with it often some bad habits) on how best to do things on horseback. Let's concentrate on bringing along the beginner student in this installment, which means we need to run through a series of lessons, starting from the beginning.
After we get the horse groomed, tacked and out to the round pen or arena, our lesson is going to begin with the student mounting the horse. Depending on several factors, we will either mount from the ground or off a mounting block. Either way, the rider's right hand should firmly grip the left stirrup and the other should be on the reins at the base of the horse's neck. Once the left foot is in the stirrup, the rider should move that hand to the front of the saddle, and swing up onto the horse's back. The taller the horse, the more challenging this task is, which is why we may utilize a mounting block. After the rider is settled in the saddle, I'll set about showing them proper position. Starting with the seat, legs, arms, hands and shoulders, I'm going to explain at each step what I'm looking for and why.
I want my riders settled in the saddle, not perched forward or slouched back. Riders need to be aware of how to properly sit (which seems positively simple, doesn't it?), and keep their weight distributed evenly. A rider's legs should be relaxed and against the side of the horse, with no pressure applied when standing still. Weight resting on the ball of the foot, with heels down, toes mostly forward. I say "mostly" forward, because the old train of thought from 30 or so years ago was that the toes should be pointed STRAIGHT forward, which I find awkward and incorrect for proper riding. Toes should never be pointed outward or down, though when cueing the horse there is room for a slight variance as you rotate your calves into the horse. Having the stirrups properly adjusted will go a very long way toward being able to ride correctly and communicate effectively with your horse.
To be effective (you'll hear me say that word a lot), a rider's arms should be at their side, though exactly where varies depending on the discipline they're riding. I start out all my beginner riders Western, and using two hands on the reins with a snaffle bit in the horse's mouth, so we begin with a basic position. Arms from the shoulder to the elbow relatively straight at the side, if slightly ahead of the hip. I want to see a nice bend in the elbow, though generally not more than 90 degrees unless cueing the horse. As the rider advances (on a trained or finished horse), the need for more bend becomes less. Ideally, I'd like to see a relatively straight line from elbow to the horse's mouth.
Hand position is vital because of how much communication you can do with your hands. I don't want to see a rider's hands too close together, as many trainers have them start out. Opening up the distance slightly will increase your ability to communicate with your horse. They should not be held too close to the horse, nor too high above the saddle. In a Western saddle, those hands will be higher than while riding most types of English, other than Saddleseat (and even then, when first starting out, I'll have my riders keep their hands lower than ideal for the show ring).
One of my basic tenets of good riding is, no death grip on the reins! I want the rider's hands softly closed around the reins with thumbs slightly bent upward, not horizontal to the horse's withers. Wrists should not be bent backward or forward (sometimes referred to as "puppy paws"), but in line with the arms. Shoulders should be back but relaxed, not rigid -- something I really don't like to see are the riders who arch their backs and artificially pull their shoulders back to the extremes. This makes for exceptionally ineffective riding. All of these tips can help a rider to become competent, gain seat control and not balance on their horse's mouth using the reins.
Now that we have the basics, in a future installment we can continue the lesson. Remember, riding is a learned skill. Don’t worry if everything isn’t picture perfect the first time, with time your skills will improve as long as you take it slow. Just like with our horses, skipping steps will show up in your riding. I always recommend taking lessons with a skilled instructor who understands your needs.
~SFTS
Sunday, January 22, 2012
What a Weekend!
I almost can't wait for the proverbial "work week" to begin, just so I can get a little bit of rest!
But seriously, this has been quite the weekend and there wasn't even a show or competitive trail ride. After a full week of working horses and getting ready for our show season to begin next month, I headed off to Pasadena and the Rose Bowl Riders (where Buck Brannaman is doing a clinic in late February) for Equestrian Trails, Inc's 3rd Annual President's Luncheon at 8:30 AM on Saturday, then got back in time to get several horses worked lightly before I just couldn't take the wind anymore.
Last night I received a message from Under the Angel's Wings Rescue that they needed a horse moved ASAP so, me being me, I jumped right in and said SURE! Headed out the front gate at 7:30 AM, picked the mare up some 80 miles away, brought her back to Pinon Hills then headed off to ride horses in training. After yet another full day, I just got back inside to settle in for the night about 12 hours after I left. And I sometimes wonder where the time goes!! Running here, running there, never a dull moment.
I've been putting together our show schedule for the year and it looks to be another busy one. I'm going to be reviewing many of the show ring topics we've covered here as well, to see what should be updated and revised. There is so much subject matter I have written about, and I'm always seeking new things to add to old ideas. Plus if you have any suggestions, be sure to let me know!
On another note, come the first weekend in February, I have already mentioned the Horse Expo Pomona ~ Suzi Drnec Vilestra from Hobby Horse Clothing is doing a few seminars on show attire and fashion in the show ring. It should be a great time. If you're there, look me up! Shoot me an email and I'll keep an eye out for you, I'm going to be there all day, every day of the Expo.
And now it's time for dinner, a nice cup of hot chocolate and bed! Only to get up and do it all over again tomorrow. :)
~SFTS
But seriously, this has been quite the weekend and there wasn't even a show or competitive trail ride. After a full week of working horses and getting ready for our show season to begin next month, I headed off to Pasadena and the Rose Bowl Riders (where Buck Brannaman is doing a clinic in late February) for Equestrian Trails, Inc's 3rd Annual President's Luncheon at 8:30 AM on Saturday, then got back in time to get several horses worked lightly before I just couldn't take the wind anymore.
Last night I received a message from Under the Angel's Wings Rescue that they needed a horse moved ASAP so, me being me, I jumped right in and said SURE! Headed out the front gate at 7:30 AM, picked the mare up some 80 miles away, brought her back to Pinon Hills then headed off to ride horses in training. After yet another full day, I just got back inside to settle in for the night about 12 hours after I left. And I sometimes wonder where the time goes!! Running here, running there, never a dull moment.
I've been putting together our show schedule for the year and it looks to be another busy one. I'm going to be reviewing many of the show ring topics we've covered here as well, to see what should be updated and revised. There is so much subject matter I have written about, and I'm always seeking new things to add to old ideas. Plus if you have any suggestions, be sure to let me know!
On another note, come the first weekend in February, I have already mentioned the Horse Expo Pomona ~ Suzi Drnec Vilestra from Hobby Horse Clothing is doing a few seminars on show attire and fashion in the show ring. It should be a great time. If you're there, look me up! Shoot me an email and I'll keep an eye out for you, I'm going to be there all day, every day of the Expo.
And now it's time for dinner, a nice cup of hot chocolate and bed! Only to get up and do it all over again tomorrow. :)
~SFTS
Saturday, January 21, 2012
It's the Right Time for the Right Horse...
...but unfortunately, too many people get stuck with the wrong horse, over and over and over. This can happen in a variety of ways, mainly when folks want to become horse owners and have no idea how to begin or who to trust. Frequently, they wind up trusting the wrong people and that's where the trouble starts.
There really are very few ways to know for sure you're getting involved with someone you can trust and who won't steer you wrong. One of the best is word of mouth from those you already do trust, because if a good friend or family member has nothing but praise for someone, it's a fairly decent bet they aren't going to screw you over. Another way is to seek out professional references from others in the industry, because peers will generally rate their colleagues honestly. No matter what, you still must be vigilant, ask a lot of questions and make sure if there is ever anything you are not comfortable with, you immediately get a second opinion (particularly if the answer you receive from the trainer or other equestrian professional is not suitable to you). NO question is a dumb question!
When searching for a horse, especially your first horse, being selective is imperative. Now, that doesn't mean you will find the "perfect horse" in your price range, but you can broaden your horizons if you're being too picky. I tell people, make a long list of what you want, then narrow it down to a short list of must-haves. For instance, if you're in the market for a trail horse, registration status is not necessarily going to matter, but soundness will. Shopping for a show horse is going to bring on a whole other set of criteria. Perhaps you're looking for a broodmare? Yet more questions to answer.
One of my biggest pet peeves are those who will sell inappropriate horses to new horse owners or people who have children that want to ride. All it takes is one minor mishap that can lead to a major disaster and the relationship between horse and rider is destroyed. Yes, it can happen that fast. Countless individuals have left the horse industry over the years because of unethical treatment by trainers, sellers and other industry professionals. I hear the horror stories all the time, and they make me cringe. Something I've often told people over the course of many years is, if I did not train horses myself, I'd likely not own any because there is no one out there I'd entrust the care and training of my horses to other than myself. That is a pretty sad commentary on my profession, isn't it?
Indeed, this is a topic I am going to get into more and more over the coming days and weeks, because it is such a critical one (especially in today's economy). My feelings are pretty strong where this subject is involved, because the result of potential clientele not trusting trainers or instructors directly impacts my ability to earn a living. If you like, send me your own horror stories and we'll delve deeper sometime soon.
~SFTS
There really are very few ways to know for sure you're getting involved with someone you can trust and who won't steer you wrong. One of the best is word of mouth from those you already do trust, because if a good friend or family member has nothing but praise for someone, it's a fairly decent bet they aren't going to screw you over. Another way is to seek out professional references from others in the industry, because peers will generally rate their colleagues honestly. No matter what, you still must be vigilant, ask a lot of questions and make sure if there is ever anything you are not comfortable with, you immediately get a second opinion (particularly if the answer you receive from the trainer or other equestrian professional is not suitable to you). NO question is a dumb question!
When searching for a horse, especially your first horse, being selective is imperative. Now, that doesn't mean you will find the "perfect horse" in your price range, but you can broaden your horizons if you're being too picky. I tell people, make a long list of what you want, then narrow it down to a short list of must-haves. For instance, if you're in the market for a trail horse, registration status is not necessarily going to matter, but soundness will. Shopping for a show horse is going to bring on a whole other set of criteria. Perhaps you're looking for a broodmare? Yet more questions to answer.
One of my biggest pet peeves are those who will sell inappropriate horses to new horse owners or people who have children that want to ride. All it takes is one minor mishap that can lead to a major disaster and the relationship between horse and rider is destroyed. Yes, it can happen that fast. Countless individuals have left the horse industry over the years because of unethical treatment by trainers, sellers and other industry professionals. I hear the horror stories all the time, and they make me cringe. Something I've often told people over the course of many years is, if I did not train horses myself, I'd likely not own any because there is no one out there I'd entrust the care and training of my horses to other than myself. That is a pretty sad commentary on my profession, isn't it?
Indeed, this is a topic I am going to get into more and more over the coming days and weeks, because it is such a critical one (especially in today's economy). My feelings are pretty strong where this subject is involved, because the result of potential clientele not trusting trainers or instructors directly impacts my ability to earn a living. If you like, send me your own horror stories and we'll delve deeper sometime soon.
~SFTS
Friday, January 20, 2012
It Was A Dark And Stormy Night
We're battening down the hatches here, because a storm is on the way! While I know we desperately need the rain, I've been enjoying our unseasonably warm and dry Winter. Riding daily, we've even been able to keep our regular bathing schedules because of this gorgeous weather.
On another yet equally "stormy" note, there are so many horses that need homes right now things are getting downright scary in this economy. In this past week alone, I've been told about dozens of horses needing homes, most of which are free or at minimal cost. Folks simply want to or need to get out from under the expense of them.
Please consider opening your heart and your home to a horse in need this Winter. Too many are dying and suffering, we need to grow our industry until it becomes healthy once more.
This entry is going to be short, however I wanted to mention a tragedy which struck the local horse world last week, the unexpected death of Jim Hasty, owner (with wife Gail) of the beautiful Boulder Creek Ranch in Hesperia. Jim had been ill over a year ago, and had been treated for a brain tumor. Recently, he had fallen ill again and passed away one week ago today. Gail and the entire Boulder Creek family are in our thoughts.
I'm off to the ETI National President's Brunch in the morning yet again, down at the Rose Bowl Riders clubhouse in Pasadena. It should be fun!!
~SFTS
On another yet equally "stormy" note, there are so many horses that need homes right now things are getting downright scary in this economy. In this past week alone, I've been told about dozens of horses needing homes, most of which are free or at minimal cost. Folks simply want to or need to get out from under the expense of them.
Please consider opening your heart and your home to a horse in need this Winter. Too many are dying and suffering, we need to grow our industry until it becomes healthy once more.
This entry is going to be short, however I wanted to mention a tragedy which struck the local horse world last week, the unexpected death of Jim Hasty, owner (with wife Gail) of the beautiful Boulder Creek Ranch in Hesperia. Jim had been ill over a year ago, and had been treated for a brain tumor. Recently, he had fallen ill again and passed away one week ago today. Gail and the entire Boulder Creek family are in our thoughts.
I'm off to the ETI National President's Brunch in the morning yet again, down at the Rose Bowl Riders clubhouse in Pasadena. It should be fun!!
~SFTS
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