One of my favorite things has got to be exploring new trails from the back of a good horse. Even more fun is making new trails that traverse the landscape I love, utilizing both existing rights-of-way and dry washes as well as traipsing across hill and dale connecting each.
Traditionally I begin by determining where I want to ride to, coming up with an ultimate destination. Sometimes the journey becomes just as fun not knowing exactly where the trail will lead, though I’ll have a general direction and idea of where the terminus should be.
When the ground is wetted by a recent storm is the best time for trail building, as horse hooves will dig deeper into the soil and leave a clear path to follow later on. It is important to begin when there is no threat of rain again within a good week or so, and I like to lay down at least four to six sets of hoofprints on a new trail the first day, following that up with two to four sets each day for the next six days. By the end of the first week of a trail’s life, I want to have ridden the length of that trail a minimum of 20 to 30 times. This ensures the trail will be easily found by anyone riding in the area.
Setting out with a general direction in mind, I seek a relatively easy path through the underbrush, trees, bushes, rocks and other natural obstacles, though I prefer to add in minor challenges that would test a majority of average trail horses. Boring it should not be! The concept is to make each trail a fun and exciting excursion that neither rider or horse will tire of. Each trail needs to have sections which will on occasion test each team.
Here in the desert we do have various challenges, most of which I have written about over the past couple of years, and they need to be kept in mind. Joshua trees and Cholla bushes are two of the most dangerous, along with the ancient barbed wire fences which have often become hidden under years of growth. Just as with any situation, it’s important to keep aware of your surroundings. Getting a horse tangled in barbed wire or having to pluck cholla spines out of his legs is no fun for horse or rider!
Inevitably as I’m winding my way through the desert there will be places I make a decision to ride through a spot I’ll later regret -- bushes too close, maybe a section where there are a lot of rocks or something else, but those will be minor and never cause either myself or my horse to be places in danger. Of course, common sense is a must out on the trail. If I’m on a horse who isn’t experienced or who tends to spook at things, I’ll not use them for trail building and stick to wider dirt roads.
Upon completion of the trail, as mentioned above I will turn around and backtrack a good two or three times and oftentimes take another, fresh horse out to ride the same trail again while my original tracks are most easily followed.
In upcoming months there will be a photo essay as a companion piece to this article available online, so look for the web address. I will detail the process of trail making (and how I accomplish it) from start to finish complete with captions for each picture, so readers can follow along and have an insider understanding on how it’s done with tips on how you can make your own trails in your own area or neighborhood.
Thanks for taking this ride along with me...it’s been fun sharing! Until the next time we hit the trails together, keep safe out there!
~SFTS
Tuesday, January 31, 2012
Monday, January 30, 2012
Are You Up For The Challenge?
As I've already mentioned, yesterday I once again judged an American Competitive Trail Horse Association (ACTHA) Competitive Trail Challenge hosted by one of our local horse rescues, Mustang-Spirit. These events are a great deal of fun and not terribly difficult to train your horse for the competition. They're being held all over and getting more popular by the week.
Back in 2004, co-founders Carrie Scrima and Karen VanGetson came up with the concept of the CTC and set about forming the association which gives what they call "affiliates" (those groups who actually host and put on these rides) support, guidelines, judge's training and a rulebook. Their idea was an organization that rewarded people for having nice, well trained trail horses that could perform a variety of obstacles along the trail.
It's a really cool program that utilizes 6-10 different judges for 6-10 different obstacles over 6-10 miles of trail. Then at the end, they have a "soundness check" where each horse is trotted for one final judge. Very few instances will get you disqualified, though you can get a zero score if your horse does not perform an obstacle. Scoring is on both the horse and the rider, with a possible score of 10 points for the horse and 10 points for the rider for each obstacle.
If this sounds like something you would like to participate in, check out the ACTHA Website to see what they have to offer.
~SFTS
Back in 2004, co-founders Carrie Scrima and Karen VanGetson came up with the concept of the CTC and set about forming the association which gives what they call "affiliates" (those groups who actually host and put on these rides) support, guidelines, judge's training and a rulebook. Their idea was an organization that rewarded people for having nice, well trained trail horses that could perform a variety of obstacles along the trail.
It's a really cool program that utilizes 6-10 different judges for 6-10 different obstacles over 6-10 miles of trail. Then at the end, they have a "soundness check" where each horse is trotted for one final judge. Very few instances will get you disqualified, though you can get a zero score if your horse does not perform an obstacle. Scoring is on both the horse and the rider, with a possible score of 10 points for the horse and 10 points for the rider for each obstacle.
If this sounds like something you would like to participate in, check out the ACTHA Website to see what they have to offer.
~SFTS
Sunday, January 29, 2012
Preparing For The Show Ring Redux
Just a quick note first, today was yet another American Competitive Trail Horse Association (ACTHA) Competitive Trail Challenge down at Mustang-Spirit Horse Rescue and once again, I was one of their obstacle judges. Today I was asked to be the soundness check judge as well. What a fantastic group of people and a terrific group of horses and riders. More than 40 horses competed in the three divisions (Junior, Pleasure and Open). Bravo to everyone who made this ride another success!!
* * * * * * * *
This time around we're discussing getting ready for the big day, horse show day, by making sure everything other than your horse is clean, prepared and all set to be packed up.
For me, I have certain products I use on my tack, just like I do on my horses. My mainstay is Lexol, but Ko Cho Line, Horsemen's One Step and Oakwood are other favorites. First I want the leather clean, and that means using a good cleaner and really getting down into the tooling on Western saddles, for instance. That can be a tough order, let me tell you! I use a fairly stiff toothbrush and several soft rags, which do the job well. Then it's time to condition the leather, leaving it soft and supple.
If you need to rejuvenate, darken or supple up your leather, Neatsfoot Oil is the ticket ~ soaking will produce the best results, but you must remember to wipe off the excess oil, then clean + condition as usual or risk staining both your horse and your show clothes. For my Western saddle suede seats, as well as suede chaps, I really like the KIWI Suede & Nubuck cleaner.
Moving on, I wash my bits in an anti-bacterial dish soap, followed by rinsing them well and both towel and air drying fully before beginning the polishing process. For stainless and chrome, I use English Custom Polish's products. Expensive, but worth it. On my silver, my preference is Hagerty's Silversmith Spray. Been using it for many years, and it's still the best. Lightly spraying on a soft rag, wipe the silver, let it dry and then buff it, your silver will gleam like never before.
Another essential is ensuring your show clothes are clean, pressed and ready to roll. If you need to have anything dry cleaned, get them in long before you need to be packing!! Depending on the item of clothing, I will either hand wash in Woolite or machine wash on the "gentle" cycle, and hang to dry. Remember, this includes your boots (which need to be cleaned and polished ~ I use KIWI Parade Gloss) and your hats (which I will take to the dry cleaner, too)! Investing in a good hat cleaning sponge as well as a higher end lint roller is a must, too.
Make sure everything is spic and span, up to and including your horse's blankets and other horsewear, so that you'll arrive at the big event looking like you belong.
~SFTS
* * * * * * * *
This time around we're discussing getting ready for the big day, horse show day, by making sure everything other than your horse is clean, prepared and all set to be packed up.
For me, I have certain products I use on my tack, just like I do on my horses. My mainstay is Lexol, but Ko Cho Line, Horsemen's One Step and Oakwood are other favorites. First I want the leather clean, and that means using a good cleaner and really getting down into the tooling on Western saddles, for instance. That can be a tough order, let me tell you! I use a fairly stiff toothbrush and several soft rags, which do the job well. Then it's time to condition the leather, leaving it soft and supple.
If you need to rejuvenate, darken or supple up your leather, Neatsfoot Oil is the ticket ~ soaking will produce the best results, but you must remember to wipe off the excess oil, then clean + condition as usual or risk staining both your horse and your show clothes. For my Western saddle suede seats, as well as suede chaps, I really like the KIWI Suede & Nubuck cleaner.
Moving on, I wash my bits in an anti-bacterial dish soap, followed by rinsing them well and both towel and air drying fully before beginning the polishing process. For stainless and chrome, I use English Custom Polish's products. Expensive, but worth it. On my silver, my preference is Hagerty's Silversmith Spray. Been using it for many years, and it's still the best. Lightly spraying on a soft rag, wipe the silver, let it dry and then buff it, your silver will gleam like never before.
Another essential is ensuring your show clothes are clean, pressed and ready to roll. If you need to have anything dry cleaned, get them in long before you need to be packing!! Depending on the item of clothing, I will either hand wash in Woolite or machine wash on the "gentle" cycle, and hang to dry. Remember, this includes your boots (which need to be cleaned and polished ~ I use KIWI Parade Gloss) and your hats (which I will take to the dry cleaner, too)! Investing in a good hat cleaning sponge as well as a higher end lint roller is a must, too.
Make sure everything is spic and span, up to and including your horse's blankets and other horsewear, so that you'll arrive at the big event looking like you belong.
~SFTS
Saturday, January 28, 2012
One More Time...
Just as I did yesterday, I'm going to re-post a blog entry from back in 2009 regarding show ring tips because they're just such good articles and so valuable for so many. The same will go for tomorrow night. On Monday we'll be back to current topics, along with a full report of the ACTHA ride tomorrow!
Today we are going back to the show ring tips topic. As the title suggests ~ I am resurrecting it. Why? Because it's one of my favorite topics, very important to your show ring career and I truly enjoy helping folks excel. :)
One of the most important things you can do after arriving at the showgrounds, getting signed up or checked in and readying both yourself and your horse for the ring is to make sure you have a set of eyes on the ground. There will almost always be things a rider or handler will miss, in the excitement of the moment. Just before stepping into the ring, make sure you've got someone to wipe your horse (quick soft brush then a rag over the body, a rag to wipe the mouth and a rag to wipe the hooves), to run a brush through your horse's tail (and mane in some cases) making certain the tail knot is pulled out, to wipe your boots ~ I have a hilariously funny story about this ~ and to make sure your girth or cinch is tightened. Few things are worse than going in the ring with a tied up tail, dusty boots, a loose girth…or without your number.
My dusting-off-boots story: A couple of years back we were at a large all Arabian show in Las Vegas when I was getting ready to head to the ring for a Western Pleasure class. My daughter was assisting in making sure we were prepared to show, so I asked her to give me the final touch up, by "busting my doots". Yes, you read that right. For some reason I was struck with an episode of severe dyslexia, and could not for the life of me ask her to "dust my boots". After about the third time, she figured out what I meant, so off we were headed for the in gate with clean boots. However, my husband on an errand made a detour by Wal-Mart for a burgundy hand towel and a gold paint pen to write "Doot Buster" on said towel. Thus, an official SFTS tradition was born. We attend no shows without the Doot Buster.
Another of the most important pieces of advice you can possibly be given is to SMILE! No matter if you are competing in hand or under saddle, Western or English, in Equitation or Pleasure ~ if you do so, your judge will notice. Don't overschool your horse, especially in the lead-up to the big dance. As riders and trainers, we tend to forget this and many experience frustration when something isn't perfect in a work session or lesson. That effect is multiplied several times over when we're concentrating on a show the next weekend.
Know your patterns, your courses and/or your tests. Study them!! You are supposed to be exhibiting what you know, how well you can follow directions and how well you can execute each of the above. Judges are impressed with confidence, nothing says you are confident like knowing what you're doing. In Showmanship, quarters are pretty much mandatory. Gone are the days when judges only expected the half system ~ so know your quarters!! I drill my kids in Showmanship every bit as hard as Eq patterns.
Rely on your trainer if you have one. That's what you pay the trainer for! Personally I prefer to warm up my students' and clients' horses for them, before having them climb on board for a quick lesson (and a run through of the pattern right before an Equitation or Horsemanship class). I also do coach from the rail, but my style is more moral support and giving kudos for a great ride than actual coaching. I cannot stand trainers who scream at their students across the arena, it's unprofessional and many judges frown on it.
Make sure you give your horse a break between classes (which also goes to the overschooling issue) to allow them to relax, have a drink, take a 'potty break' and just plain enjoy him or herself. This sort of policy makes for a much happier, more sound horse and that translates to better rides. Never forget, it's about your partnership with your mount, doing your best and camaraderie with your friends, NOT about winning ribbons.
If your horse does not have flying lead changes nailed, don't ask for them! Better to execute a good, smooth simple change and make it look effortless than have a disastrous moment in an otherwise nearly flawless ride. Never, ever lose your temper with your horse…especially in front of your judge. In most circuits doing so will get you ejected from the ring if not from the showgrounds. Keep good sportsmanship in mind, ALWAYS. It doesn't matter if you got a green ribbon instead of a blue one thanks to a careless spectator, it doesn't matter if your horse picked up the wrong lead because another exhibitor ran their horse into yours, none of that matters in the big picture. Hold your temper.
One lesson I learned many years ago was not to argue with your judge, nor to correct him or her. As an exhibitor who competes primarily on Arabian horses, I frequently encounter judges who have zero experience with my breed. Comments I have heard range from "Make sure your horse's hind legs are SQUARE in Halter and Showmanship classes" to "Your horse carries himself with too much of an arch to his neck" to a myriad of other comments. My response is to politely smile, nod and carry on about showing my horses. ;)
~SFTS
Today we are going back to the show ring tips topic. As the title suggests ~ I am resurrecting it. Why? Because it's one of my favorite topics, very important to your show ring career and I truly enjoy helping folks excel. :)
One of the most important things you can do after arriving at the showgrounds, getting signed up or checked in and readying both yourself and your horse for the ring is to make sure you have a set of eyes on the ground. There will almost always be things a rider or handler will miss, in the excitement of the moment. Just before stepping into the ring, make sure you've got someone to wipe your horse (quick soft brush then a rag over the body, a rag to wipe the mouth and a rag to wipe the hooves), to run a brush through your horse's tail (and mane in some cases) making certain the tail knot is pulled out, to wipe your boots ~ I have a hilariously funny story about this ~ and to make sure your girth or cinch is tightened. Few things are worse than going in the ring with a tied up tail, dusty boots, a loose girth…or without your number.
My dusting-off-boots story: A couple of years back we were at a large all Arabian show in Las Vegas when I was getting ready to head to the ring for a Western Pleasure class. My daughter was assisting in making sure we were prepared to show, so I asked her to give me the final touch up, by "busting my doots". Yes, you read that right. For some reason I was struck with an episode of severe dyslexia, and could not for the life of me ask her to "dust my boots". After about the third time, she figured out what I meant, so off we were headed for the in gate with clean boots. However, my husband on an errand made a detour by Wal-Mart for a burgundy hand towel and a gold paint pen to write "Doot Buster" on said towel. Thus, an official SFTS tradition was born. We attend no shows without the Doot Buster.
Another of the most important pieces of advice you can possibly be given is to SMILE! No matter if you are competing in hand or under saddle, Western or English, in Equitation or Pleasure ~ if you do so, your judge will notice. Don't overschool your horse, especially in the lead-up to the big dance. As riders and trainers, we tend to forget this and many experience frustration when something isn't perfect in a work session or lesson. That effect is multiplied several times over when we're concentrating on a show the next weekend.
Know your patterns, your courses and/or your tests. Study them!! You are supposed to be exhibiting what you know, how well you can follow directions and how well you can execute each of the above. Judges are impressed with confidence, nothing says you are confident like knowing what you're doing. In Showmanship, quarters are pretty much mandatory. Gone are the days when judges only expected the half system ~ so know your quarters!! I drill my kids in Showmanship every bit as hard as Eq patterns.
Rely on your trainer if you have one. That's what you pay the trainer for! Personally I prefer to warm up my students' and clients' horses for them, before having them climb on board for a quick lesson (and a run through of the pattern right before an Equitation or Horsemanship class). I also do coach from the rail, but my style is more moral support and giving kudos for a great ride than actual coaching. I cannot stand trainers who scream at their students across the arena, it's unprofessional and many judges frown on it.
Make sure you give your horse a break between classes (which also goes to the overschooling issue) to allow them to relax, have a drink, take a 'potty break' and just plain enjoy him or herself. This sort of policy makes for a much happier, more sound horse and that translates to better rides. Never forget, it's about your partnership with your mount, doing your best and camaraderie with your friends, NOT about winning ribbons.
If your horse does not have flying lead changes nailed, don't ask for them! Better to execute a good, smooth simple change and make it look effortless than have a disastrous moment in an otherwise nearly flawless ride. Never, ever lose your temper with your horse…especially in front of your judge. In most circuits doing so will get you ejected from the ring if not from the showgrounds. Keep good sportsmanship in mind, ALWAYS. It doesn't matter if you got a green ribbon instead of a blue one thanks to a careless spectator, it doesn't matter if your horse picked up the wrong lead because another exhibitor ran their horse into yours, none of that matters in the big picture. Hold your temper.
One lesson I learned many years ago was not to argue with your judge, nor to correct him or her. As an exhibitor who competes primarily on Arabian horses, I frequently encounter judges who have zero experience with my breed. Comments I have heard range from "Make sure your horse's hind legs are SQUARE in Halter and Showmanship classes" to "Your horse carries himself with too much of an arch to his neck" to a myriad of other comments. My response is to politely smile, nod and carry on about showing my horses. ;)
~SFTS
Friday, January 27, 2012
Show Ring Ready Revisited
My apologies...this is a repeat of a post that went up on this blog back in October of 2009. However, in my opinion it's such an excellent topic, it warrants being put here again. Enjoy!!
This is going to be about tips and tricks (as the title suggests) for excelling in the show ring. We've covered similar topics before, and we have discussed tack, attire and grooming suggestions and though I am sure we shall revisit those again, I'm not going into that now. This time it's just good, old fashioned "how can I improve my performance, get the most out of my horse and enhance our showing experience".
That said, one tip I've not covered before related to attire is to bring along a pair of sweats and an older t-shirt (short or long sleeved, depending on what you're wearing) so you can keep your show clothes clean. I thought this was a BRILLIANT idea if you have more than a few classes all lumped together and run at the same time, but not have to spend so much time changing into and out of your show outfits. Great advice I wish I would have thought of sooner (which sounds like a no-brainer, doesn't it)!
I am a 'serial watcher'. Always have been. So when I have students and clients who are new to the showing scene, I am sure to bring them out to not one, but several shows of whatever level they are going to be showing at (and, of course, we always start out the rank beginners at the local open/schooling show level). It's going to be a show that we are NOT attending with horses competing at first, then later they come with us to a show in order to get an idea of how things go when you're riding into the spotlight. Finally, it's showtime! When we attend that first show (or shows), we talk. A lot. We discuss expectations, what the judges are looking for, I like to have them do a little bit of 'judging' themselves as we watch classes so they have an in depth concept of just what we, as horse show exhibitors, are seeking to accomplish.
Along the lines of watching, which is always an excellent suggestion for all if for no other reason than to get an idea of what's in fashion and what the judges are looking for at the start of each new show season (and yes, along with the various attire fads will be new training strategies and methods as well as a variance in what certain judges want over last year). Taking notes, photographing or videotaping what you like and dislike ~ though I would suggest you ask a participant or entrant's permission before capturing them on film as a courtesy, and be sure to tell them why ~ can be a terrific way to know how to plan what to buy and what you should be working on with your horse. Also, during a break or after the show requesting to speak with the judge(s) can be a beneficial way to get information "straight from the horse's mouth", so to speak. They may be willing to give you pointers on how to best present yourself and your horse. You must be sure to go through the proper channels, though, and contact show officials to make sure of the right time and place to accomplish this.
Here, in the following paragraphs, we are going to explore a few of the vitally important things exhibitors can do to enhance their performances. Let's start with some basics and go from there.
Often you will hear instructors and trainers mention "riding defensively", just as in driver's education during high school you'll hear that mumbo-jumbo about "driving defensively". However, being defensive generally implies that you are having to defend what you're doing because you may be doing something wrong. I would rather ride offensively, making my own way and path, taking my ride into MY hands instead of simply trying to survive out there.
Assuming you are riding in a ring full of those less capable, who don't pay attention to where they are going, who will more than likely cut you off, ride into you and blow YOUR ride, above all else in importance is to pay attention to those around you so you can ensure no one else is going to cause you to lose your class. Keep your eye on horses that may have given their riders trouble in the warm-up ring, and on occasion glance around to see if anyone's horse is out of control. It doesn't have to be obvious, in fact it's better to be less conspicuous. But be aware! It may mean the difference between someone's horse running into yours and getting the gate, versus bringing home the blue ribbon.
One of my favorite saying to my students is, ride your ring! You have to command that ring, stay in control, use that rail and know how to stay out of trouble.
Some trainers want their students to stay on the rail, no matter what. While I prefer my riders stay on the rail, if you need to move around someone or get away from a horse that's acting up, by all means do so. What I can't stand (as an exhibitor and a judge, both) are those riders who circle the judge, taking the shortest circuit around the ring. It's not a race, folks! Many times I have almost been run over because there are horses playing "Ring Around The Rosie". Not fun! Negotiating traffic in the show ring is simply a fact of life. Just don't make it harder on yourself (and your horse) than it needs to be.
Another place riders sometimes fail to give themselves a shot at a nice rail pass is in the corners. USE THEM! Riding deep into a corner when the majority of your competition will be cutting those same corners can set you up nicely to be seen.
Circles and cutting across the arena safely (that being the key word here) are always an acceptable means of putting your horse in the right place at the right time. Getting stuck in a pack of horses or being blocked from the judge's view won't help you.
What about the horse who listens more to the show ring announcer than his rider? Some of the old campaigners do this on a regular basis, and even many trainers don't seem to know how to deal with it other than to heavily school the horse during a class. Now let's stop right here - I do not have an issue with schooling an out of control horse, or a naughty mount that knows the difference between the warm-up ring and the show arena, or schooling at home versus competing. My approach differs from many, because I like to set up "mock horse shows" where that horse simply must learn to pay attention to the rider and not the announcer. Easy? Not always. You have to have a number of riders and horses, all of you have to do your pre-show prep and it can't be the same old arena at home. Your horse already listens there, right? So, you've got to make certain the horse thinks he's at a real show. You also have to have access to the P.A. system, too…though in a pinch you can use a loud boom-box and recorded commands at intervals that make sense. Yes, you CAN do it. It just takes a little bit of planning and preparation.
Okay, as I've said before, I use the small open shows as a training ground for the big leagues. You must keep in mind, however, that some folks do participate in local show circuits for year end high point awards and those who do take them very seriously. Therefore, be mindful that you don't blow someone else's ride by schooling your horse. By doing so you could cause them to lose a silver buckle or even a saddle! My rule of thumb for schooling is, you can still follow all directions of the judge, ring steward and announcer. I can't stand it when someone schools their horse at a lope while everyone else is jogging. Follow the darn class and obey the commands given!
Another of my major pet peeves is transitions. Years ago at one of our local show circuits, when it came time to go from a walk to a lope (for instance), everyone down the line would pick up their lead, in order of how you happened to be in that line. That and it had to be INSTANT, so if you were first in line, that very second the announcer requested that lope, you had better get your horse moving. I'm sorry, in my world it just does not work that way. There I was, odd[wo]man out anyhow because I was riding an Arabian in a sea of Quarter Horses and Paints, and I…Gasp…requested that my horse lope when I felt he was ready, regardless of what my fellow exhibitors were doing. There is never a need to rush your horse. Don't forget that! Of course, you don't want to take an entire circuit around the ring before you request the lope, hoping for that "just right" perfect timing. Let me tell you, it's probably not gonna happen like that. You need to be at least somewhat prompt, even while not immediately launching into the next gait. Something I always tell my students is, set your horse up before you change gaits. Simple preparedness can win you a class, especially if the judge is watching you (or wants to see you perform various transitions). Remember as well, the same goes for down transitions. I really dislike it when a judge will ask for the halt from a hand gallop or even the canter. Your horse had better have good brakes! Many judges will not penalize you for not instantly bringing your horse to a stop, but some will. Hence why you should know what your judges are looking for before you show. Also - be sure you know if your horse is on the correct lead. If you cannot feel it in your seat, work on it until you can. Nothing says "newbie who doesn't know how to ride" like a horse on a wrong lead.
Just as important as taking your time to ask for that lope or canter and get your leads right (any transition, really) is making certain when riding an English seat that you get your diagonals at the trot correct. You really have to take the time and you'll never get marked down if you sit a few strides before rising. I would much rather you get it right than jump into your post and pick it up wrong, then have to change your diagonal. As with everything else, it does take practice, however it's an essential skill you need to know.
In the future we'll continue this subject. Until then, put in some great rides and get yourself ready to go show!
~SFTS
This is going to be about tips and tricks (as the title suggests) for excelling in the show ring. We've covered similar topics before, and we have discussed tack, attire and grooming suggestions and though I am sure we shall revisit those again, I'm not going into that now. This time it's just good, old fashioned "how can I improve my performance, get the most out of my horse and enhance our showing experience".
That said, one tip I've not covered before related to attire is to bring along a pair of sweats and an older t-shirt (short or long sleeved, depending on what you're wearing) so you can keep your show clothes clean. I thought this was a BRILLIANT idea if you have more than a few classes all lumped together and run at the same time, but not have to spend so much time changing into and out of your show outfits. Great advice I wish I would have thought of sooner (which sounds like a no-brainer, doesn't it)!
I am a 'serial watcher'. Always have been. So when I have students and clients who are new to the showing scene, I am sure to bring them out to not one, but several shows of whatever level they are going to be showing at (and, of course, we always start out the rank beginners at the local open/schooling show level). It's going to be a show that we are NOT attending with horses competing at first, then later they come with us to a show in order to get an idea of how things go when you're riding into the spotlight. Finally, it's showtime! When we attend that first show (or shows), we talk. A lot. We discuss expectations, what the judges are looking for, I like to have them do a little bit of 'judging' themselves as we watch classes so they have an in depth concept of just what we, as horse show exhibitors, are seeking to accomplish.
Along the lines of watching, which is always an excellent suggestion for all if for no other reason than to get an idea of what's in fashion and what the judges are looking for at the start of each new show season (and yes, along with the various attire fads will be new training strategies and methods as well as a variance in what certain judges want over last year). Taking notes, photographing or videotaping what you like and dislike ~ though I would suggest you ask a participant or entrant's permission before capturing them on film as a courtesy, and be sure to tell them why ~ can be a terrific way to know how to plan what to buy and what you should be working on with your horse. Also, during a break or after the show requesting to speak with the judge(s) can be a beneficial way to get information "straight from the horse's mouth", so to speak. They may be willing to give you pointers on how to best present yourself and your horse. You must be sure to go through the proper channels, though, and contact show officials to make sure of the right time and place to accomplish this.
Here, in the following paragraphs, we are going to explore a few of the vitally important things exhibitors can do to enhance their performances. Let's start with some basics and go from there.
Often you will hear instructors and trainers mention "riding defensively", just as in driver's education during high school you'll hear that mumbo-jumbo about "driving defensively". However, being defensive generally implies that you are having to defend what you're doing because you may be doing something wrong. I would rather ride offensively, making my own way and path, taking my ride into MY hands instead of simply trying to survive out there.
Assuming you are riding in a ring full of those less capable, who don't pay attention to where they are going, who will more than likely cut you off, ride into you and blow YOUR ride, above all else in importance is to pay attention to those around you so you can ensure no one else is going to cause you to lose your class. Keep your eye on horses that may have given their riders trouble in the warm-up ring, and on occasion glance around to see if anyone's horse is out of control. It doesn't have to be obvious, in fact it's better to be less conspicuous. But be aware! It may mean the difference between someone's horse running into yours and getting the gate, versus bringing home the blue ribbon.
One of my favorite saying to my students is, ride your ring! You have to command that ring, stay in control, use that rail and know how to stay out of trouble.
Some trainers want their students to stay on the rail, no matter what. While I prefer my riders stay on the rail, if you need to move around someone or get away from a horse that's acting up, by all means do so. What I can't stand (as an exhibitor and a judge, both) are those riders who circle the judge, taking the shortest circuit around the ring. It's not a race, folks! Many times I have almost been run over because there are horses playing "Ring Around The Rosie". Not fun! Negotiating traffic in the show ring is simply a fact of life. Just don't make it harder on yourself (and your horse) than it needs to be.
Another place riders sometimes fail to give themselves a shot at a nice rail pass is in the corners. USE THEM! Riding deep into a corner when the majority of your competition will be cutting those same corners can set you up nicely to be seen.
Circles and cutting across the arena safely (that being the key word here) are always an acceptable means of putting your horse in the right place at the right time. Getting stuck in a pack of horses or being blocked from the judge's view won't help you.
What about the horse who listens more to the show ring announcer than his rider? Some of the old campaigners do this on a regular basis, and even many trainers don't seem to know how to deal with it other than to heavily school the horse during a class. Now let's stop right here - I do not have an issue with schooling an out of control horse, or a naughty mount that knows the difference between the warm-up ring and the show arena, or schooling at home versus competing. My approach differs from many, because I like to set up "mock horse shows" where that horse simply must learn to pay attention to the rider and not the announcer. Easy? Not always. You have to have a number of riders and horses, all of you have to do your pre-show prep and it can't be the same old arena at home. Your horse already listens there, right? So, you've got to make certain the horse thinks he's at a real show. You also have to have access to the P.A. system, too…though in a pinch you can use a loud boom-box and recorded commands at intervals that make sense. Yes, you CAN do it. It just takes a little bit of planning and preparation.
Okay, as I've said before, I use the small open shows as a training ground for the big leagues. You must keep in mind, however, that some folks do participate in local show circuits for year end high point awards and those who do take them very seriously. Therefore, be mindful that you don't blow someone else's ride by schooling your horse. By doing so you could cause them to lose a silver buckle or even a saddle! My rule of thumb for schooling is, you can still follow all directions of the judge, ring steward and announcer. I can't stand it when someone schools their horse at a lope while everyone else is jogging. Follow the darn class and obey the commands given!
Another of my major pet peeves is transitions. Years ago at one of our local show circuits, when it came time to go from a walk to a lope (for instance), everyone down the line would pick up their lead, in order of how you happened to be in that line. That and it had to be INSTANT, so if you were first in line, that very second the announcer requested that lope, you had better get your horse moving. I'm sorry, in my world it just does not work that way. There I was, odd[wo]man out anyhow because I was riding an Arabian in a sea of Quarter Horses and Paints, and I…Gasp…requested that my horse lope when I felt he was ready, regardless of what my fellow exhibitors were doing. There is never a need to rush your horse. Don't forget that! Of course, you don't want to take an entire circuit around the ring before you request the lope, hoping for that "just right" perfect timing. Let me tell you, it's probably not gonna happen like that. You need to be at least somewhat prompt, even while not immediately launching into the next gait. Something I always tell my students is, set your horse up before you change gaits. Simple preparedness can win you a class, especially if the judge is watching you (or wants to see you perform various transitions). Remember as well, the same goes for down transitions. I really dislike it when a judge will ask for the halt from a hand gallop or even the canter. Your horse had better have good brakes! Many judges will not penalize you for not instantly bringing your horse to a stop, but some will. Hence why you should know what your judges are looking for before you show. Also - be sure you know if your horse is on the correct lead. If you cannot feel it in your seat, work on it until you can. Nothing says "newbie who doesn't know how to ride" like a horse on a wrong lead.
Just as important as taking your time to ask for that lope or canter and get your leads right (any transition, really) is making certain when riding an English seat that you get your diagonals at the trot correct. You really have to take the time and you'll never get marked down if you sit a few strides before rising. I would much rather you get it right than jump into your post and pick it up wrong, then have to change your diagonal. As with everything else, it does take practice, however it's an essential skill you need to know.
In the future we'll continue this subject. Until then, put in some great rides and get yourself ready to go show!
~SFTS
Thursday, January 26, 2012
Excitement Abound!
This is going to be a super short post this morning because I don't have much time to be writing today. Our next ETI Corral 88 meeting is this evening and we're going to be making all sorts of plans for the year so don't miss out. Lots of trail rides and other activities for local horse owners.
I'm judging at the Mustang-Spirit horse rescue ACTHA Competitive Trail Challenge this weekend. If you are not familiar with ACTHA, check them out here ~ ~ it's a really cool organization and their rides are too much fun.
Thanks so much for reading...see you in the show ring or out on the trail!!
I'm judging at the Mustang-Spirit horse rescue ACTHA Competitive Trail Challenge this weekend. If you are not familiar with ACTHA, check them out here ~ ~ it's a really cool organization and their rides are too much fun.
Thanks so much for reading...see you in the show ring or out on the trail!!
Wednesday, January 25, 2012
And They’re Off! Retraining The Ex-Racehorse
These days, a very common means of acquiring an inexpensive horse is to get yourself what we commonly refer to as an "OTTB" (which stands for Off Track Thoroughbred racehorse). Sure, people have been taking these horses and giving them a second career for ages, but in a poor economy there are both more horses in need of being moved into new homes off the racetrack and fewer people who can afford to buy a more expensive already trained (or in this case re-trained) horse.
Some of you may not know that as a general rule, racehorses are on an extremely high grain diet, which along with being in peak condition after coming off the track and expecting the same conditions in his life that he's always known can make things a challenge. At least these days most racehorses aren't being pumped full of anabolic steroids, because they're not allowed on the racetrack anymore, though there could easily be high energy feeds as well as other drugs in their systems. A majority of horses that come off the track have suffered some sort of career ending injury, and you can bet it's been treated with something. With those OTTB's I've dealt with, I prefer to give them a good 60 days to "let down" and learn how to be a normal horse. During this time, all I'm going to be giving them is high quality hay and perhaps a low starch, low carb ration mixed with probiotics.
It's always a good idea to have your veterinarian thoroughly check the horse out and give you a game plan to ensure the horse is in good health as well as to make note of any physical issues or injuries. Ulcers are quite common in many racehorses as well, which can easily be diagnosed by your veterinarian. Okay, sometimes not so easily...however keeping your eyes open as to the symptoms of an ulcer horse and treating a horse with such symptoms can go a long ways toward making him healthy and happy. If it turns out he doesn't have ulcers after all, the treatments for that condition won't hurt him.
Supposing, for the sake of this article, the horse you've recently taken in off the racetrack is healthy and sound, you'll need to develop a work plan to teach him how to go along with his new routine. Contrary to popular belief, my experience with OTTB's has largely been they come around amazingly quickly and it really is not all that difficult to get them moved into other jobs. By nature they're extremely athletic and most of them have an exceptionally strong work ethic. One of the places I start with a horse fresh off the racetrack is to teach them how to crosstie. What I've found is that most of them have no idea how the process works and they tend to be confused. I'll approach this training essentially the same as I do with teaching babies how to tie in the first place.
Another often perplexing and difficult thing you will have to deal with when taking one of these horses off the track is leading. Starting at the beginning with basic "whoa" lessons and training on the leadline, just like with tying, you can avoid most issues. Many former racehorses have never really been taught to respect their handler's space and tend to crowd. This does not need to be made into a major ordeal, just simple common sense and methodical training, again just like a baby. All of your ground work will essentially be like starting fresh from scratch, only easier because they have had a considerable amount of training already and they do know what it's like to have a rider on their backs.
Progressing along, I want to accustom the horse to training on the longeline, in a bitting rig, in longlines and other basic ground work. We've also found over the years that having small obstacles to negotiate (such as ground poles to walk over and so forth) helps these horses immensely with understanding where their feet are and basic body control that's accomplished with most two and three year old pleasure, show or trail horses. I like to use such training as ground work (and later under saddle work) for all horses. Even the older already trained or finished horses go back to ground work on occasion.
I always re-start the off track horses identically to every other horse with very few exceptions. Obviously, they need to get used to a much heavier saddle than they've ever carried (particularly because I get on them for the first couple of weeks in a Western saddle until they're going forward confidently, and sometimes regularly thereafter). Mounting is another issue that hopefully won't become problematic. To diffuse most situations which can arise with mounting one of these horses, I make sure they're trained to stand at a mounting block before ever thinking about getting on, because usually I don't have someone handy to boost me into the saddle as the horse will be expecting.
Using a mounting block and training a horse to stand next to one is not difficult either, but like any type of training we do, patience is a must. You should have already gone over "whoa" training and the horse should fully understand that word means STOP NOW, cease all movement and plant your feet! Don't make a big deal out of any mis-step, go back and repeat each exercise or concept until the horse cooperates every time. Just like with starting a baby for the first time, I like to make sure to spend some time in one stirrup, 'hanging' off the side of the horse, and I repeat this on both sides. Eventually, you will be able to mount up from the ground with no problem. Since many (if not most) racehorses, at least in my experience, want to walk or even trot off as soon as you mount up, this is an area you'll want to spend a good deal of extra time on.
I always use a round pen or small enclosed area to get on any horse for the first time in training, if you don't have access to a round pen, you can use an uncovered 24x24 pipe paddock...just don't ride under a shelter (which can be hazardous to your health)! This way, with a former racehorse, I don't worry about being ponied or led ~ the horse knows what being ridden means and they understand how to follow the fence. Staying out of the horse's face is vitally important, you can retrain them to accept and understand contact in time. First rides on an off track horse for me usually are walking, with a little bit of "follow your face" in circles using a leading rein with plenty of slack on the off side of your turn.
These horses have been taught to take hold of the bit as opposed to yielding to it, so take the time to help them slowly learn what it means to give. Voluminous praise when he does something right, and if you prefer, a treat (though I'm still not the most keen person on treat training) will go a long ways toward helping him understand what you want and comply with your requests in a relaxed manner. Soon your ex-racer will be a willing partner.
Another thing your retired racehorse must become accustomed to is your legs against his sides as well as your seat in the saddle. Straightness will come later on, using only light contact with your legs and concentrating on getting the horse to relax is the task at hand for these early rides. By that I mean you'll probably spend most of your time at this stage bending the horse, allowing him to stretch down (which they learn quickly to enjoy) and if he starts to get nervous or act like he's going to launch into a familiar gallop, taking a cross hold until he yields. As long as you stay consistent and don't let his nerves get to you, you'll both be fine.
One of the last tests you'll need to make sure the ex-racehorse passes is being ridden with other horses, first in the arena and later on, if you desire, on the trail. Being naturally socialized animals who prefer to live in the company of other horses, most of them adjust easily and don't revert to their prior training (catch the other horse, pass the other horse) as long as you make it easy for them to do the right thing and listen to you. My favorite means of getting them out with others is to have the quietest horse in the barn as their riding partner, the horse that nothing bothers, nothing upsets and does not spook.
Of course, if you are a novice or newbie horse owner, I DO NOT suggest getting a former racehorse. While these horses are a ton of fun, be sure you are fully prepared for the task at hand. Whether in the show ring or going down the trail, you'll be sure to have the time of your life.
~SFTS
Some of you may not know that as a general rule, racehorses are on an extremely high grain diet, which along with being in peak condition after coming off the track and expecting the same conditions in his life that he's always known can make things a challenge. At least these days most racehorses aren't being pumped full of anabolic steroids, because they're not allowed on the racetrack anymore, though there could easily be high energy feeds as well as other drugs in their systems. A majority of horses that come off the track have suffered some sort of career ending injury, and you can bet it's been treated with something. With those OTTB's I've dealt with, I prefer to give them a good 60 days to "let down" and learn how to be a normal horse. During this time, all I'm going to be giving them is high quality hay and perhaps a low starch, low carb ration mixed with probiotics.
It's always a good idea to have your veterinarian thoroughly check the horse out and give you a game plan to ensure the horse is in good health as well as to make note of any physical issues or injuries. Ulcers are quite common in many racehorses as well, which can easily be diagnosed by your veterinarian. Okay, sometimes not so easily...however keeping your eyes open as to the symptoms of an ulcer horse and treating a horse with such symptoms can go a long ways toward making him healthy and happy. If it turns out he doesn't have ulcers after all, the treatments for that condition won't hurt him.
Supposing, for the sake of this article, the horse you've recently taken in off the racetrack is healthy and sound, you'll need to develop a work plan to teach him how to go along with his new routine. Contrary to popular belief, my experience with OTTB's has largely been they come around amazingly quickly and it really is not all that difficult to get them moved into other jobs. By nature they're extremely athletic and most of them have an exceptionally strong work ethic. One of the places I start with a horse fresh off the racetrack is to teach them how to crosstie. What I've found is that most of them have no idea how the process works and they tend to be confused. I'll approach this training essentially the same as I do with teaching babies how to tie in the first place.
Another often perplexing and difficult thing you will have to deal with when taking one of these horses off the track is leading. Starting at the beginning with basic "whoa" lessons and training on the leadline, just like with tying, you can avoid most issues. Many former racehorses have never really been taught to respect their handler's space and tend to crowd. This does not need to be made into a major ordeal, just simple common sense and methodical training, again just like a baby. All of your ground work will essentially be like starting fresh from scratch, only easier because they have had a considerable amount of training already and they do know what it's like to have a rider on their backs.
Progressing along, I want to accustom the horse to training on the longeline, in a bitting rig, in longlines and other basic ground work. We've also found over the years that having small obstacles to negotiate (such as ground poles to walk over and so forth) helps these horses immensely with understanding where their feet are and basic body control that's accomplished with most two and three year old pleasure, show or trail horses. I like to use such training as ground work (and later under saddle work) for all horses. Even the older already trained or finished horses go back to ground work on occasion.
I always re-start the off track horses identically to every other horse with very few exceptions. Obviously, they need to get used to a much heavier saddle than they've ever carried (particularly because I get on them for the first couple of weeks in a Western saddle until they're going forward confidently, and sometimes regularly thereafter). Mounting is another issue that hopefully won't become problematic. To diffuse most situations which can arise with mounting one of these horses, I make sure they're trained to stand at a mounting block before ever thinking about getting on, because usually I don't have someone handy to boost me into the saddle as the horse will be expecting.
Using a mounting block and training a horse to stand next to one is not difficult either, but like any type of training we do, patience is a must. You should have already gone over "whoa" training and the horse should fully understand that word means STOP NOW, cease all movement and plant your feet! Don't make a big deal out of any mis-step, go back and repeat each exercise or concept until the horse cooperates every time. Just like with starting a baby for the first time, I like to make sure to spend some time in one stirrup, 'hanging' off the side of the horse, and I repeat this on both sides. Eventually, you will be able to mount up from the ground with no problem. Since many (if not most) racehorses, at least in my experience, want to walk or even trot off as soon as you mount up, this is an area you'll want to spend a good deal of extra time on.
I always use a round pen or small enclosed area to get on any horse for the first time in training, if you don't have access to a round pen, you can use an uncovered 24x24 pipe paddock...just don't ride under a shelter (which can be hazardous to your health)! This way, with a former racehorse, I don't worry about being ponied or led ~ the horse knows what being ridden means and they understand how to follow the fence. Staying out of the horse's face is vitally important, you can retrain them to accept and understand contact in time. First rides on an off track horse for me usually are walking, with a little bit of "follow your face" in circles using a leading rein with plenty of slack on the off side of your turn.
These horses have been taught to take hold of the bit as opposed to yielding to it, so take the time to help them slowly learn what it means to give. Voluminous praise when he does something right, and if you prefer, a treat (though I'm still not the most keen person on treat training) will go a long ways toward helping him understand what you want and comply with your requests in a relaxed manner. Soon your ex-racer will be a willing partner.
Another thing your retired racehorse must become accustomed to is your legs against his sides as well as your seat in the saddle. Straightness will come later on, using only light contact with your legs and concentrating on getting the horse to relax is the task at hand for these early rides. By that I mean you'll probably spend most of your time at this stage bending the horse, allowing him to stretch down (which they learn quickly to enjoy) and if he starts to get nervous or act like he's going to launch into a familiar gallop, taking a cross hold until he yields. As long as you stay consistent and don't let his nerves get to you, you'll both be fine.
One of the last tests you'll need to make sure the ex-racehorse passes is being ridden with other horses, first in the arena and later on, if you desire, on the trail. Being naturally socialized animals who prefer to live in the company of other horses, most of them adjust easily and don't revert to their prior training (catch the other horse, pass the other horse) as long as you make it easy for them to do the right thing and listen to you. My favorite means of getting them out with others is to have the quietest horse in the barn as their riding partner, the horse that nothing bothers, nothing upsets and does not spook.
Of course, if you are a novice or newbie horse owner, I DO NOT suggest getting a former racehorse. While these horses are a ton of fun, be sure you are fully prepared for the task at hand. Whether in the show ring or going down the trail, you'll be sure to have the time of your life.
~SFTS
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