I really have to learn how to set up this blog for automatic posting on certain really busy days, because I am finding myself more often not being awake enough come evenings to put up an intended post!
Anyhow, all I really wanted to do for my Fabulous Friday (cute, isn't it?) post was give thanks to the folks who support local equestrian activities.
Here in our area, we only have three local horse associations dedicated generally to horses and that host shows, with just one other over on the Los Angeles County side. There are four others which host barrel races and gymkhanas, but are not all 'rounders...and then we have a few local 4-H clubs, though only one of those is dedicated to showing horses and training as opposed to gaming. Now before anyone says it, there is nothing wrong with clubs being dedicated to gaming! :-D It just isn't our thing.
We are so blessed that overall we've got such a great horse community, with caring people who want to make the future better for the horses and their owners. Maintaining trails and trail access, having facilities available for shows, being active politically in the community in order to preserve the rights of horse owners are all so important.
So my wish for the weekend is that all of you go out and get involved in your own community. Volunteer, lend a hand, do your part and help safeguard what's precious to all horse owners.
~SFTS
Saturday, August 8, 2009
Thursday, August 6, 2009
Demystifying Longlines & The Bitting Rig
Recently I have been asked quite a number of times and have received a good number of emails asking me to elaborate on bitting and ground driving horses in preparation for ridden work, so here we go.
Many novice horse owners or handlers are worried they cannot possibly ‘line drive’ a horse, because of all the possibilities for wrecks. But really, if we’re that worried about a bad wreck occurring, what do we own a horse for? Simple steps to feeling secure about safety are essential. We all can do this if we put our mind to it and pay attention to what’s going on around us. Now let’s get started.
Once a horse is in his third or fourth year, it’s time to progress to further training and get him prepared to be saddled and ridden. To simplify the process and ensure the safety of both horse and rider, I’ll introduce certain components of tack I’m going to expect the horse to wear once he’s being ridden, and certain concepts he will need to understand in order to be ridden safely. Later on, the task of starting a young horse under saddle will be covered -- but for the purposes of this topic, let’s assume he has been accustomed to what he’s supposed to wear.
For older, already trained horses I will utilize ground driving or longlining to give them a tuneup, too. Remember, some things (like snaffle bits!) aren’t always only for the babies in our barns. The term ‘ground driving’ was given to this process because we’re doing just that ... driving the horse while standing on the ground rather than having him hitched to a cart.
First, we need to know and understand what type of equipment is necessary to bit or longline a horse. Obviously a good fitting bridle. The basic bridle will consist of the headstall, cavesson, snaffle bit and sidereins. I prefer soft leather and for my purposes (which I’ll describe a little bit later) I want the headstall fitted with sidecheck rings. Cavessons are generally rather similar, I just want one that fits the horse well, doesn’t rub on his cheekbones and has a noseband that’s not too big around. In choosing a bit, my first picks are going to be either a smooth, solid Dee-Ring for starting youngsters, a smooth, thick Eggbutt or full cheek for my Hunter and Western horses and a smooth half-cheek for my flat saddle English horses. I prefer an inlaid copper or sweet iron mouthpiece, as do most of my horses, for keeping their mouths soft and responsive. There are many variations, but these are my staples. Last, for the sidereins I do not want elastic parts or those rubber ‘donuts’, but rather simple leather reins with decent snaps at each end.
A properly fitted martingale (the type I prefer is called an Arabian training running martingale by some vendors -- I don’t like ‘training forks’, a standing martingale-type contraption, nor do I want the rings placed where it will pull the horse’s head down while in use) is a must, as is a good quality surcingle made of leather or webbing, with a variety of rings at different places along each side. Under the surcingle I’ll use either a leg wrapping quilt [ideal] or just a regular smaller sized saddle pad. Along with that surcingle, I’m going to want to be sure I keep the crupper strap and the crupper itself soft and in good repair, since I don’t want anything that goes under his tail to chafe or bother him.
For some show horses, I will use what’s called a sidecheck or an overcheck. These devices can be helpful in both preventing a horse from dropping his head too low, or keeping him from getting behind the bit.
Now that we’ve covered what we need in the way of special tack and we have a horse who already knows how to wear his leather, it’s time to cover the safety factor. Just as with longeing a horse and riding one, the last thing we need to happen is to become entangled or stuck in something attached securely to the horse. Longlining is a prime opportunity for the handler who isn’t quick with their hands and/or their feet to become caught up in the lines and that can be deadly. Be prepared for anything and always be cognizant of where your lines are.
If the horse is already used to being saddled, then it’s generally no sweat to fit him with a surcingle. Basically, it’s going to feel the same as a normal cinch or girth. What won’t feel right is the crupper. With most horses, I’ll take them into the round pen before placing that ‘horrible thing’ (in the horse’s mind, at least!) under the tail. Some horses have no issue with it. Others almost immediately start kicking out or bucking. This is why my preference is to either have someone hold the horse, or at least to run a long lead rope or soft cotton longeline around one of the pen’s support poles, still holding onto it while securing the crupper in place. I’m not keen on actually tying him yet, because that could put me in more danger should he try to bolt off or kick. Having the ability to snub his nose tighter if he fidgets or wants to leave and using the rope or line to push him over toward the fence, I’m going to be far more safe. Also vitally important to remember is to ALWAYS buckle the crupper on the opposite side from that which you are on, pulling it under the tail and away from you.
A side note about cruppers and why we use them in driving and longlining horses ~ simply put, so that we do not pull the surcingle too far forward on the horse's withers and cause him discomfort or pain.
What is the purpose of bitting up a horse and longlining a horse? While each has it’s own actual purpose, my reasons for using each are unique to the situation and the horse. With a youngster I’m getting ready to train under saddle, it’s a must so that the horse understands what the girth feels like, what it’s like to carry a bit and how to respond to the reins. For a horse who hasn’t grasped the concept of yielding, giving to the bit or any sort of lateral flexion, I want him to learn that he can seek and get relief from the pressure on his mouth. Instead of a rider’s hand releasing the pressure, he will find that relief on his own, by bringing his face toward where I want him to be.
The process of bitting also can be useful in helping to build the horse’s neck muscles in the proper way and teach him to keep his neck in the proper place. A properly bitted horse will be neither too tight or too long, although I will start with a fair length of side rein with an inexperienced horse, gradually tightening until he’s at the desired headset. This should occur over several days, not immediately.
Bitting up a horse is fairly simple, but to do so without hurting the horse or unnecessarily stressing him can be a challenge. I prefer not to leave a horse bitted up in his stall -- i.e., where he lives -- but will do so in the round pen, as long as he keeps moving for the most part. What I don’t want to teach him is how to lean on the reins. If he’s moving and he feels the resistance and pressure of the side reins, he will be far more likely not to lean on them, as long as he’s not left bitted for too long, if he’s not being ridden or driven yet.
Bitting while longeing, on the other hand, not only teaches the horse how to carry himself properly at the requisite gaits (walk, trot/jog and canter/lope), but gives him a goal to work toward without learning to lean on my hands - he must keep himself together while propelling forward and without being allowed to stop when he wants to, as he can while simply bitted up. For the beginning of this exercise, I’ll usually let the horse canter without the reins being attached at first, to get some of the ‘go’ out of him, then slowly start tightening the reins until he’s where I want him. But while that shortening of rein is spread out over quite a few sessions (as described above) for first teaching the green horse, with a horse in training who’s used to being schooled, this is simply accomplished over the span of a mere 10-20 minutes or so, or as a precursor to either longlining or riding.
I personally try to avoid using the bitting rig itself to do most of my training. It’s more a tool of reinforcement and allows the horse to learn proper self carriage, rather than teaching him how to perform his chosen job, as will the longlines. But it is necessary.
By the time we progress to working in the longlines (‘ground driving’), the goal changes somewhat. Meaning, our goal in bitting is as described above - self carriage. Now the goal will be to learn how to apply that self-carriage. Read on.
Since I’ve done my homework, the horse knows how to yield to the bit and will give to pressure on the reins. While I can bend him to one side or the other while bitting up to help with suppling exercises and getting him to flex, I would rather do so at the start with the horse in longlines. That way, I will be able to give him more release from the pressure on his face when he responds correctly.
Something I will take into consideration at the outset, however, is how sensitive the horse will be to the lines themselves. At some point, they will come into contact with his croup, buttock, flanks and/or hocks. Does he or will he spook when they touch him? Will he bolt to get away from them or try to kick at them? If the answer to any of these (or a myriad of others) questions is “Yes”, I’ll need to desensitize the horse to the lines first, before I ask for much work.
When the horse is ready to begin his real work in earnest, after he’s groomed and tacked with the basics, I first free longe him (meaning having him not attached from the bit to the bitting harness whatsoever, and not working him without a longeline) a little bit to take the edge off, then I’ll lightly longe him, softly bitted, while he loosens up and tests his boundaries. By ‘softly’, I mean so he barely comes into contact with the bit.
At that point, he’s probably ready to hitch, or hook, which, in terms of ground driving (versus having him pull a cart), simply means attaching the lines to him via the bit and running them through the surcingle.
Now, where I go from here depends on a couple of factors. First, where is he at in his training? Which stage of development? Then, what is his ultimate job going to be? Once I’ve answered these questions, I will have determined how I need to proceed.
If the horse is a youngster just learning, our lessons will be basic: go forward, stop, walk, trot, canter, turn to go right, turn to go left (always turning him into the rail away from the center as opposed to turning him toward me -- for safety purposes -- so that the horse does not get tangled up in the lines), along with a little bit of flexing down and to the inside, which builds on what he’s learned while bitted up.
I start ALL my horses in lines the same way, regardless of whether he’s going to be a trail horse, a Dressage horse, a Park horse, a Reiner, a Western Pleasure horse, a Jumper...you get the picture. There is never any substitute for a good foundation, no matter the horse’s lot in life.
For horses intended to live out their days as pleasure riding trail buddies, these basics will be enough in lines, then he’ll start on the next step to go onto the next level of training under saddle. But I want the basics mastered.
Only after I’ve had a chance to watch a horse with show performance potential (a prospect who, it’s been decided, will eventually be a show horse) will I decide how to move on after he’s nailed those basics.
With my western and hunter mounts, I want them learning how to carry themselves relatively low, with long reaching strides, plenty of impulsion and a soft, quiet attitude. This goes for horses who’ll move on to any number of areas of expertise: jumping, reining, working cattle, or simply pleasure classes on the rail.
How I accomplish this will entail using a draw rein attachment run through pulleys, connected to snaps which are hooked to the bit and run back to a low point on the surcingle. It’s really not as complicated as it sounds! My goal here is to allow the horse to drop his head (or, in the beginning, at least to encourage him to do so), bending from the shoulder/withers and lengthen his frame.
But, you may ask, how does this lead to a horse who works back off his haunches, such as is necessary for a Reiner...or that ultra slow Western Pleasure lope? Well, it doesn’t happen overnight, it’s a rather long process which involves a gentle nudge toward a horse’s inclination to be lazy and just be himself. In other words, I’ll encourage a Reining prospect, for instance, to play up his athletic qualities and fun-loving attitude by asking him to push against [toward] the rail in a series of rollbacks, thereby teaching him how to roll over his hindquarters without my ever yet having been in the saddle. For a Western Pleasure horse, I’ll increase the bump on his mouth in order to get his attention, then gradually decrease the length of rail I’m letting him jog (then lope) down before asking for that rollback. Train in increments, ask for things slowly. That builds your foundation.
To start a flat-saddle English-type horse or a Dressage mount, I’m going to want him to learn how to set and bridle higher, as well as teaching him to give more flex, or hinge, at the poll. Let me stop here for a moment. Naturally, and this should go without saying, each horse MUST be conformationally correct for the job he’s intended to perform. Only then can the animal be physically comfortable with what I’m asking of him. A horse can have a phenomenal trot, yet be disinclined to give it to you when you ask for it. Such a horse will never make a good Saddleseat or Dressage candidate!
Remember -- training must be goal-oriented. Going back to how I’ll accomplish my goal of training a horse to carry himself more elevated, the draw rein pulley attachment described above will be snapped at a much higher level on the surcingle than would be normal for a western or hunter-type horse. Why is this important? Because I want to give him the opportunity to carry himself higher. It’s for this reason I’m also going to use either a sidecheck or an overcheck, mentioned earlier.
Which I choose for a specific horse depends largely on how badly he wants to fight against being bitted higher. Again, let’s stop for a moment and consider a few things. I never, ever will even attempt to ‘crank up’ a horse’s head without building them up to it slowly first. Do you recall the tale of Black Beauty? How, upon seeing his soon-to-be-friend Ginger for the first time, the reaction to what Beauty termed the “check rein”? The horrid thing which held Ginger’s head up in the air ‘unnaturally’ and was just dreadful? That’s how some horses will initially approach getting used to the sidecheck or overcheck.
With that in mind, taking the attitude and abilities of most English or Dressage horses, I’d rather opt for a sidecheck. If I encounter resistance, I’ll put him in an overcheck. But horses have to be taught how to carry themselves higher, in small increments, even if they’re naturally higher-headed animals. How to teach this? Foremost, start with a horse who has the physical qualities seen in the best English-type horses. Then take it slowly and work toward your goal without rushing the horse and making him resentful of his training.
Keeping all these things in mind, you, too, can transform your prospect into a winner. Or at least get him well on his way before sending him out for training! Just be sure you take all the steps and don’t skip the small stuff, because that’s where holes will show up.
~SFTS
Many novice horse owners or handlers are worried they cannot possibly ‘line drive’ a horse, because of all the possibilities for wrecks. But really, if we’re that worried about a bad wreck occurring, what do we own a horse for? Simple steps to feeling secure about safety are essential. We all can do this if we put our mind to it and pay attention to what’s going on around us. Now let’s get started.
Once a horse is in his third or fourth year, it’s time to progress to further training and get him prepared to be saddled and ridden. To simplify the process and ensure the safety of both horse and rider, I’ll introduce certain components of tack I’m going to expect the horse to wear once he’s being ridden, and certain concepts he will need to understand in order to be ridden safely. Later on, the task of starting a young horse under saddle will be covered -- but for the purposes of this topic, let’s assume he has been accustomed to what he’s supposed to wear.
For older, already trained horses I will utilize ground driving or longlining to give them a tuneup, too. Remember, some things (like snaffle bits!) aren’t always only for the babies in our barns. The term ‘ground driving’ was given to this process because we’re doing just that ... driving the horse while standing on the ground rather than having him hitched to a cart.
First, we need to know and understand what type of equipment is necessary to bit or longline a horse. Obviously a good fitting bridle. The basic bridle will consist of the headstall, cavesson, snaffle bit and sidereins. I prefer soft leather and for my purposes (which I’ll describe a little bit later) I want the headstall fitted with sidecheck rings. Cavessons are generally rather similar, I just want one that fits the horse well, doesn’t rub on his cheekbones and has a noseband that’s not too big around. In choosing a bit, my first picks are going to be either a smooth, solid Dee-Ring for starting youngsters, a smooth, thick Eggbutt or full cheek for my Hunter and Western horses and a smooth half-cheek for my flat saddle English horses. I prefer an inlaid copper or sweet iron mouthpiece, as do most of my horses, for keeping their mouths soft and responsive. There are many variations, but these are my staples. Last, for the sidereins I do not want elastic parts or those rubber ‘donuts’, but rather simple leather reins with decent snaps at each end.
A properly fitted martingale (the type I prefer is called an Arabian training running martingale by some vendors -- I don’t like ‘training forks’, a standing martingale-type contraption, nor do I want the rings placed where it will pull the horse’s head down while in use) is a must, as is a good quality surcingle made of leather or webbing, with a variety of rings at different places along each side. Under the surcingle I’ll use either a leg wrapping quilt [ideal] or just a regular smaller sized saddle pad. Along with that surcingle, I’m going to want to be sure I keep the crupper strap and the crupper itself soft and in good repair, since I don’t want anything that goes under his tail to chafe or bother him.
For some show horses, I will use what’s called a sidecheck or an overcheck. These devices can be helpful in both preventing a horse from dropping his head too low, or keeping him from getting behind the bit.
Now that we’ve covered what we need in the way of special tack and we have a horse who already knows how to wear his leather, it’s time to cover the safety factor. Just as with longeing a horse and riding one, the last thing we need to happen is to become entangled or stuck in something attached securely to the horse. Longlining is a prime opportunity for the handler who isn’t quick with their hands and/or their feet to become caught up in the lines and that can be deadly. Be prepared for anything and always be cognizant of where your lines are.
If the horse is already used to being saddled, then it’s generally no sweat to fit him with a surcingle. Basically, it’s going to feel the same as a normal cinch or girth. What won’t feel right is the crupper. With most horses, I’ll take them into the round pen before placing that ‘horrible thing’ (in the horse’s mind, at least!) under the tail. Some horses have no issue with it. Others almost immediately start kicking out or bucking. This is why my preference is to either have someone hold the horse, or at least to run a long lead rope or soft cotton longeline around one of the pen’s support poles, still holding onto it while securing the crupper in place. I’m not keen on actually tying him yet, because that could put me in more danger should he try to bolt off or kick. Having the ability to snub his nose tighter if he fidgets or wants to leave and using the rope or line to push him over toward the fence, I’m going to be far more safe. Also vitally important to remember is to ALWAYS buckle the crupper on the opposite side from that which you are on, pulling it under the tail and away from you.
A side note about cruppers and why we use them in driving and longlining horses ~ simply put, so that we do not pull the surcingle too far forward on the horse's withers and cause him discomfort or pain.
What is the purpose of bitting up a horse and longlining a horse? While each has it’s own actual purpose, my reasons for using each are unique to the situation and the horse. With a youngster I’m getting ready to train under saddle, it’s a must so that the horse understands what the girth feels like, what it’s like to carry a bit and how to respond to the reins. For a horse who hasn’t grasped the concept of yielding, giving to the bit or any sort of lateral flexion, I want him to learn that he can seek and get relief from the pressure on his mouth. Instead of a rider’s hand releasing the pressure, he will find that relief on his own, by bringing his face toward where I want him to be.
The process of bitting also can be useful in helping to build the horse’s neck muscles in the proper way and teach him to keep his neck in the proper place. A properly bitted horse will be neither too tight or too long, although I will start with a fair length of side rein with an inexperienced horse, gradually tightening until he’s at the desired headset. This should occur over several days, not immediately.
Bitting up a horse is fairly simple, but to do so without hurting the horse or unnecessarily stressing him can be a challenge. I prefer not to leave a horse bitted up in his stall -- i.e., where he lives -- but will do so in the round pen, as long as he keeps moving for the most part. What I don’t want to teach him is how to lean on the reins. If he’s moving and he feels the resistance and pressure of the side reins, he will be far more likely not to lean on them, as long as he’s not left bitted for too long, if he’s not being ridden or driven yet.
Bitting while longeing, on the other hand, not only teaches the horse how to carry himself properly at the requisite gaits (walk, trot/jog and canter/lope), but gives him a goal to work toward without learning to lean on my hands - he must keep himself together while propelling forward and without being allowed to stop when he wants to, as he can while simply bitted up. For the beginning of this exercise, I’ll usually let the horse canter without the reins being attached at first, to get some of the ‘go’ out of him, then slowly start tightening the reins until he’s where I want him. But while that shortening of rein is spread out over quite a few sessions (as described above) for first teaching the green horse, with a horse in training who’s used to being schooled, this is simply accomplished over the span of a mere 10-20 minutes or so, or as a precursor to either longlining or riding.
I personally try to avoid using the bitting rig itself to do most of my training. It’s more a tool of reinforcement and allows the horse to learn proper self carriage, rather than teaching him how to perform his chosen job, as will the longlines. But it is necessary.
By the time we progress to working in the longlines (‘ground driving’), the goal changes somewhat. Meaning, our goal in bitting is as described above - self carriage. Now the goal will be to learn how to apply that self-carriage. Read on.
Since I’ve done my homework, the horse knows how to yield to the bit and will give to pressure on the reins. While I can bend him to one side or the other while bitting up to help with suppling exercises and getting him to flex, I would rather do so at the start with the horse in longlines. That way, I will be able to give him more release from the pressure on his face when he responds correctly.
Something I will take into consideration at the outset, however, is how sensitive the horse will be to the lines themselves. At some point, they will come into contact with his croup, buttock, flanks and/or hocks. Does he or will he spook when they touch him? Will he bolt to get away from them or try to kick at them? If the answer to any of these (or a myriad of others) questions is “Yes”, I’ll need to desensitize the horse to the lines first, before I ask for much work.
When the horse is ready to begin his real work in earnest, after he’s groomed and tacked with the basics, I first free longe him (meaning having him not attached from the bit to the bitting harness whatsoever, and not working him without a longeline) a little bit to take the edge off, then I’ll lightly longe him, softly bitted, while he loosens up and tests his boundaries. By ‘softly’, I mean so he barely comes into contact with the bit.
At that point, he’s probably ready to hitch, or hook, which, in terms of ground driving (versus having him pull a cart), simply means attaching the lines to him via the bit and running them through the surcingle.
Now, where I go from here depends on a couple of factors. First, where is he at in his training? Which stage of development? Then, what is his ultimate job going to be? Once I’ve answered these questions, I will have determined how I need to proceed.
If the horse is a youngster just learning, our lessons will be basic: go forward, stop, walk, trot, canter, turn to go right, turn to go left (always turning him into the rail away from the center as opposed to turning him toward me -- for safety purposes -- so that the horse does not get tangled up in the lines), along with a little bit of flexing down and to the inside, which builds on what he’s learned while bitted up.
I start ALL my horses in lines the same way, regardless of whether he’s going to be a trail horse, a Dressage horse, a Park horse, a Reiner, a Western Pleasure horse, a Jumper...you get the picture. There is never any substitute for a good foundation, no matter the horse’s lot in life.
For horses intended to live out their days as pleasure riding trail buddies, these basics will be enough in lines, then he’ll start on the next step to go onto the next level of training under saddle. But I want the basics mastered.
Only after I’ve had a chance to watch a horse with show performance potential (a prospect who, it’s been decided, will eventually be a show horse) will I decide how to move on after he’s nailed those basics.
With my western and hunter mounts, I want them learning how to carry themselves relatively low, with long reaching strides, plenty of impulsion and a soft, quiet attitude. This goes for horses who’ll move on to any number of areas of expertise: jumping, reining, working cattle, or simply pleasure classes on the rail.
How I accomplish this will entail using a draw rein attachment run through pulleys, connected to snaps which are hooked to the bit and run back to a low point on the surcingle. It’s really not as complicated as it sounds! My goal here is to allow the horse to drop his head (or, in the beginning, at least to encourage him to do so), bending from the shoulder/withers and lengthen his frame.
But, you may ask, how does this lead to a horse who works back off his haunches, such as is necessary for a Reiner...or that ultra slow Western Pleasure lope? Well, it doesn’t happen overnight, it’s a rather long process which involves a gentle nudge toward a horse’s inclination to be lazy and just be himself. In other words, I’ll encourage a Reining prospect, for instance, to play up his athletic qualities and fun-loving attitude by asking him to push against [toward] the rail in a series of rollbacks, thereby teaching him how to roll over his hindquarters without my ever yet having been in the saddle. For a Western Pleasure horse, I’ll increase the bump on his mouth in order to get his attention, then gradually decrease the length of rail I’m letting him jog (then lope) down before asking for that rollback. Train in increments, ask for things slowly. That builds your foundation.
To start a flat-saddle English-type horse or a Dressage mount, I’m going to want him to learn how to set and bridle higher, as well as teaching him to give more flex, or hinge, at the poll. Let me stop here for a moment. Naturally, and this should go without saying, each horse MUST be conformationally correct for the job he’s intended to perform. Only then can the animal be physically comfortable with what I’m asking of him. A horse can have a phenomenal trot, yet be disinclined to give it to you when you ask for it. Such a horse will never make a good Saddleseat or Dressage candidate!
Remember -- training must be goal-oriented. Going back to how I’ll accomplish my goal of training a horse to carry himself more elevated, the draw rein pulley attachment described above will be snapped at a much higher level on the surcingle than would be normal for a western or hunter-type horse. Why is this important? Because I want to give him the opportunity to carry himself higher. It’s for this reason I’m also going to use either a sidecheck or an overcheck, mentioned earlier.
Which I choose for a specific horse depends largely on how badly he wants to fight against being bitted higher. Again, let’s stop for a moment and consider a few things. I never, ever will even attempt to ‘crank up’ a horse’s head without building them up to it slowly first. Do you recall the tale of Black Beauty? How, upon seeing his soon-to-be-friend Ginger for the first time, the reaction to what Beauty termed the “check rein”? The horrid thing which held Ginger’s head up in the air ‘unnaturally’ and was just dreadful? That’s how some horses will initially approach getting used to the sidecheck or overcheck.
With that in mind, taking the attitude and abilities of most English or Dressage horses, I’d rather opt for a sidecheck. If I encounter resistance, I’ll put him in an overcheck. But horses have to be taught how to carry themselves higher, in small increments, even if they’re naturally higher-headed animals. How to teach this? Foremost, start with a horse who has the physical qualities seen in the best English-type horses. Then take it slowly and work toward your goal without rushing the horse and making him resentful of his training.
Keeping all these things in mind, you, too, can transform your prospect into a winner. Or at least get him well on his way before sending him out for training! Just be sure you take all the steps and don’t skip the small stuff, because that’s where holes will show up.
~SFTS
Wednesday, August 5, 2009
Supple Is The Key To Success
How often have you climbed aboard your horse for a nice, peaceful work session only to find that he doesn’t want to yield to your legs or pick up a correct lead? If this happens regularly, ask yourself a few questions first, before taking any further steps and reprimanding your horse for “bad behavior”.
Did you give him adequate warmup time? Or just rush right into your work plan for the day? (...you DO have a work plan, don’t you?) If he tends to be cold-backed, did you longe him first to loosen up those muscles before mounting? Did you spend any length of time asking him to give to the bit gently, then flex him, side to side to be sure he’s ready and able to do your bidding? Did your warmup routine include circling him in each direction and asking him to move out uncollected first? If the answer to any of these questions is no, then you’re the one who needs the reprimand.
Remember, your horse is an athlete, and as such he should be treated as one. You wouldn’t dream of asking a track and field sprinter to just take off from the blocks without warmup exercises after sitting around waiting his turn, would you? Likewise, you shouldn’t ask the same of your horse without his muscles being ready to tackle any task you should request of him.
Let’s begin with why you want your horse supple and flexible. Even a horse in the best condition can become stiff and unresponsive after sitting in his stall overnight without much room to move around. This concept can even apply to pastured horses, as they’re generally lazy creatures by nature and won’t go running around to limber themselves up if they don’t absolutely have to.
Liken the scenario to you waking up first thing in the morning. What’s one of the first things many of us humans do when we get out of bed? Other than rushing out to get that first cup of coffee (!), stretching and yawning is a typical reaction, right? As we age, that stretching is often accompanied by those horrid cracking and popping noises, which is the body’s way of helping get us realigned after a night’s rest. Your horse is no different, other than he’s a LOT bigger and therefore he has more muscles, ligaments and bones which need to be prepared before facing a day’s work.
Many folks today start their daily regimen with the horse by doing some simple massage-like rubbing in sensitive areas following a good, thorough grooming. Equine chiropractors suggest stretching exercises, too, before saddling up, often referred to as “carrot stretches” (since you entice the horse to stretch by wagging a carrot in his face). Once my horses are tacked and ready I’ll ordinarily take them out and longe them before mounting, although with some horses the warmup regimen just includes bending, flexing and circling at the walk, then the jog-trot. I’m also a stickler for having a set plan for the day’s training sessions on each horse, knowing what I’m setting out to accomplish or teach the horse. Having goals in mind, no matter how small, helps focus on what’s important.
For instance, say the next horse I’ll be working is a young and inexperienced Western horse. He’s far enough along to have graduated to a full set of tack and is rideable under saddle, perhaps even to the point of being really steady and solid in the snaffle. But he’s got to be able to take that next step soon and gain confidence carrying a curb bit. What would my next goal for that horse be? The very first step, naturally, is to take him out and longe him in saddle and bridle, first with his head free, then loosely bitted up. There’s his initial warmup, and I’ll notice that he’s suppling enough to begin giving to his bit. I can then bit him a little tighter on one side toward the inside each direction and he won’t fight the bit, also taking note of the fact that he’s not rushing, but travelling in a nice, relaxed manner at all gaits. At that point, he’ll be ready to get on. Naturally, this session also begins in a snaffle before we progress to that much-anticipated curb.
Of course, if he IS trying to fight those reins, if he’s rushing about madly or some other out of control behavior, I’m going to want to wait him out and be certain both his mind and body are ready to concentrate on his work prior to my jumping into that saddle. No sense in taking steps backward during the training process just because I have a schedule to meet.
Back to that goal -- before I even take him out to the arena, I know what I’ll be working toward is introducing the curb (for the young ones and inexperienced Western horses I use a very short-shanked bit with a Frog mouthpiece...such a bit has a relatively low port with good tongue relief and a cricket, or roller, that he can sometimes use to occupy his mind and relax) and getting him accustomed to the differences in how that curb works as opposed to the snaffle he’s been used to. I won’t worry about collection or even a headset at first, because we’ve already gotten the requisite frame (though I dislike thinking in terms of "frame" even in a show horse) in the snaffle and he understands how he needs to carry himself. Our main purpose will be his understanding and grasp of responding to an entirely different bit in his mouth.
How does this relate to his suppleness? Simply put, the horse has to be comfortable and at ease in order to work properly and that directly corresponds to how supple he is. A horse who’s stiff and inflexible won’t be able to collect himself at all, his concentration will be all but nonexistent and he sure won’t be happy with what he’s doing. It doesn’t matter whether he’s a Pleasure horse, a Jumper, a Dressage mount or a Reiner, he still needs to be supple so he can perform what’s asked of him without discomfort or pain.
Once you have that work plan in place and you’re tacked up ready to go, give your horse a chance to give you his best by ensuring he is ready as well!
~SFTS
Did you give him adequate warmup time? Or just rush right into your work plan for the day? (...you DO have a work plan, don’t you?) If he tends to be cold-backed, did you longe him first to loosen up those muscles before mounting? Did you spend any length of time asking him to give to the bit gently, then flex him, side to side to be sure he’s ready and able to do your bidding? Did your warmup routine include circling him in each direction and asking him to move out uncollected first? If the answer to any of these questions is no, then you’re the one who needs the reprimand.
Remember, your horse is an athlete, and as such he should be treated as one. You wouldn’t dream of asking a track and field sprinter to just take off from the blocks without warmup exercises after sitting around waiting his turn, would you? Likewise, you shouldn’t ask the same of your horse without his muscles being ready to tackle any task you should request of him.
Let’s begin with why you want your horse supple and flexible. Even a horse in the best condition can become stiff and unresponsive after sitting in his stall overnight without much room to move around. This concept can even apply to pastured horses, as they’re generally lazy creatures by nature and won’t go running around to limber themselves up if they don’t absolutely have to.
Liken the scenario to you waking up first thing in the morning. What’s one of the first things many of us humans do when we get out of bed? Other than rushing out to get that first cup of coffee (!), stretching and yawning is a typical reaction, right? As we age, that stretching is often accompanied by those horrid cracking and popping noises, which is the body’s way of helping get us realigned after a night’s rest. Your horse is no different, other than he’s a LOT bigger and therefore he has more muscles, ligaments and bones which need to be prepared before facing a day’s work.
Many folks today start their daily regimen with the horse by doing some simple massage-like rubbing in sensitive areas following a good, thorough grooming. Equine chiropractors suggest stretching exercises, too, before saddling up, often referred to as “carrot stretches” (since you entice the horse to stretch by wagging a carrot in his face). Once my horses are tacked and ready I’ll ordinarily take them out and longe them before mounting, although with some horses the warmup regimen just includes bending, flexing and circling at the walk, then the jog-trot. I’m also a stickler for having a set plan for the day’s training sessions on each horse, knowing what I’m setting out to accomplish or teach the horse. Having goals in mind, no matter how small, helps focus on what’s important.
For instance, say the next horse I’ll be working is a young and inexperienced Western horse. He’s far enough along to have graduated to a full set of tack and is rideable under saddle, perhaps even to the point of being really steady and solid in the snaffle. But he’s got to be able to take that next step soon and gain confidence carrying a curb bit. What would my next goal for that horse be? The very first step, naturally, is to take him out and longe him in saddle and bridle, first with his head free, then loosely bitted up. There’s his initial warmup, and I’ll notice that he’s suppling enough to begin giving to his bit. I can then bit him a little tighter on one side toward the inside each direction and he won’t fight the bit, also taking note of the fact that he’s not rushing, but travelling in a nice, relaxed manner at all gaits. At that point, he’ll be ready to get on. Naturally, this session also begins in a snaffle before we progress to that much-anticipated curb.
Of course, if he IS trying to fight those reins, if he’s rushing about madly or some other out of control behavior, I’m going to want to wait him out and be certain both his mind and body are ready to concentrate on his work prior to my jumping into that saddle. No sense in taking steps backward during the training process just because I have a schedule to meet.
Back to that goal -- before I even take him out to the arena, I know what I’ll be working toward is introducing the curb (for the young ones and inexperienced Western horses I use a very short-shanked bit with a Frog mouthpiece...such a bit has a relatively low port with good tongue relief and a cricket, or roller, that he can sometimes use to occupy his mind and relax) and getting him accustomed to the differences in how that curb works as opposed to the snaffle he’s been used to. I won’t worry about collection or even a headset at first, because we’ve already gotten the requisite frame (though I dislike thinking in terms of "frame" even in a show horse) in the snaffle and he understands how he needs to carry himself. Our main purpose will be his understanding and grasp of responding to an entirely different bit in his mouth.
How does this relate to his suppleness? Simply put, the horse has to be comfortable and at ease in order to work properly and that directly corresponds to how supple he is. A horse who’s stiff and inflexible won’t be able to collect himself at all, his concentration will be all but nonexistent and he sure won’t be happy with what he’s doing. It doesn’t matter whether he’s a Pleasure horse, a Jumper, a Dressage mount or a Reiner, he still needs to be supple so he can perform what’s asked of him without discomfort or pain.
Once you have that work plan in place and you’re tacked up ready to go, give your horse a chance to give you his best by ensuring he is ready as well!
~SFTS
Catching Up...Post For Tuesday August 4th!!
Darn, I broke my streak of putting up a new post every day! After getting back from working horses and giving lessons, then having to make dinner fairly late, I just simply ran out of steam last night!
We are in the middle of getting ready for our next show coming up in September, along with preparing our presentation and clinic at the upcoming Equine Extravaganza. Numerous horses showcasing nearly every discipline the Arabian breed competes in will be featured, and it's shaping up to be really, really cool! We've got at least five or six horses that are on the schedule, I just can't wait.
Something I wanted to address as we get into what we call "Monsoon Season" around here is working horses and riding in hot, humid conditions. Keeping both yourself and your horse(s) hydrated is a given, a no-brainer. Cool, clean, fresh water for the horses and plenty of ice water for yourself is a must. I will fill water bottles and put them in the freezer for myself and my kids, then we drink as they melt off. Makes them last longer than gulping down loads of cold water, which can cause tummyaches while riding.
In the Summertime, we try to get our riding done from about 6 AM until 10 AM, then start back up after 4 PM until we're done which can last until well after dark. It is a Desert out here, after all! While usually our temps are in the mid-90's to low triple digits (100-105), we do have those occasional days over 105 degrees...but it's usually a dry heat. That sounds like a cliche, I know, but it is very true. During this time of year, however, we get the monsoon humidity and that just makes it miserable for both horses and humans.
How to combat the heat? I usually like to hose off the horses from time to time throughout the day, or have water misters available in their stalls. You can find the misting systems at places like Lowe's and Home Depot, I know Target used to carry them as well. Just remember to keep fly spray on your horses, because hosing will wash it off, and misting even tends to lessen it's effectiveness. Other than that, stop working outside when the temperature starts to rise, and don't ride until after it starts to cool down. We are fortunate here in that we really do usually have a cooling period overnight. With some of the more humid areas it just doesn't cool down, even in the middle of the night.
It was brought to my attention after talking this very subject over with one of my clients that Fugly Horse of the Day did a similar post last week, and in going back to read I found there were some great suggestions, especially in the comments, so I'll just link you here and save some time typing. :) FHOTD "Heat Wave" Post
Hopefully everyone is staying cool even while preparing for your horsey-related Summer activities like shows and trail or endurance rides!
~SFTS
We are in the middle of getting ready for our next show coming up in September, along with preparing our presentation and clinic at the upcoming Equine Extravaganza. Numerous horses showcasing nearly every discipline the Arabian breed competes in will be featured, and it's shaping up to be really, really cool! We've got at least five or six horses that are on the schedule, I just can't wait.
Something I wanted to address as we get into what we call "Monsoon Season" around here is working horses and riding in hot, humid conditions. Keeping both yourself and your horse(s) hydrated is a given, a no-brainer. Cool, clean, fresh water for the horses and plenty of ice water for yourself is a must. I will fill water bottles and put them in the freezer for myself and my kids, then we drink as they melt off. Makes them last longer than gulping down loads of cold water, which can cause tummyaches while riding.
In the Summertime, we try to get our riding done from about 6 AM until 10 AM, then start back up after 4 PM until we're done which can last until well after dark. It is a Desert out here, after all! While usually our temps are in the mid-90's to low triple digits (100-105), we do have those occasional days over 105 degrees...but it's usually a dry heat. That sounds like a cliche, I know, but it is very true. During this time of year, however, we get the monsoon humidity and that just makes it miserable for both horses and humans.
How to combat the heat? I usually like to hose off the horses from time to time throughout the day, or have water misters available in their stalls. You can find the misting systems at places like Lowe's and Home Depot, I know Target used to carry them as well. Just remember to keep fly spray on your horses, because hosing will wash it off, and misting even tends to lessen it's effectiveness. Other than that, stop working outside when the temperature starts to rise, and don't ride until after it starts to cool down. We are fortunate here in that we really do usually have a cooling period overnight. With some of the more humid areas it just doesn't cool down, even in the middle of the night.
It was brought to my attention after talking this very subject over with one of my clients that Fugly Horse of the Day did a similar post last week, and in going back to read I found there were some great suggestions, especially in the comments, so I'll just link you here and save some time typing. :) FHOTD "Heat Wave" Post
Hopefully everyone is staying cool even while preparing for your horsey-related Summer activities like shows and trail or endurance rides!
~SFTS
Monday, August 3, 2009
Do You Have What It Takes To Win?
Winning. What is it really all about? The pinnacle of competition, bringing home the blue or tri-color tells those around you that above all, you’re the best at what you do. But how do you arrive at the point you need to be at in order to find success?
In all likelihood, if you consistently push yourself to be the best you can be, if you strive for perfection in all your endeavors and if you never settle for a mediocre performance, no matter what, you’ll be a winner.
For most of us who compete on a regular basis, the grind of preparation is all part of the big picture -- and without proper prep, an exhibitor won’t find the winner’s circle. You need to be dedicated beyond belief to your horse(s) and your goals, so you’d better have those goals outlined before you ever fill out an entry blank. It all starts with the desire to achieve. If you’ve got a trainer, sit down with her or him and explain what you hope to accomplish with your horse. Otherwise, talk it over with horsey friends who share your show ring enthusiasm. Then design a program to reach the goals you’ve set out for yourself and your horse.
One of the most important aspects of winning is being a good loser. No horse, rider or trainer wins every class every time out. A few come close, but even the best of the best have gotten beat before when the heat was on. Knowing how to handle defeat is vital to being able to conquer the show ring. Even when you don’t place where you think you should, congratulate those who won. With a little luck, you’ll be in their shoes one day soon and will appreciate their graciousness.
Many, many years ago, the first time I ever had the opportunity to show a Saddleseat English horse, I was confronted on the rail, while waiting for our turn in the ring, by a girl in my age bracket with a fancy chestnut horse. My older grey gelding, a former Western horse, was no match for her sleek mount -- who actually looked the part of a flat saddle horse. I nervously glanced at her, then back to my horse, uttering something to the effect of, “This is my first time to show Saddleseat, I hope I don’t get bucked off!” Her retort? “Well, I hope you DO, because I like to WIN!” It’s a moment I will never forget and a moment I sincerely hope most little girls (and boys) never have to endure. By the way, I smiled at her, wishing her good luck...then promptly went out there and beat her, winning the blue ribbon in my first English Pleasure class. Woo hoo!
Nothing ruins a good performance like sour grapes and a poor attitude. Let that also be a life lesson learned. Having a top notch horse, excellent skills and abilities, beautifully made clothes and a lot of money to flaunt it all does not make you a winner. There are many folks out there who seemingly cannot compete with the upper echelon, yet win time and again because of their dedication and spirit. Remember, “winning” isn’t only about what color those ribbons you bring home are. That’s just one facet of being a winner.
Entering the ring with supreme confidence goes a long way toward establishing to the judges and your fellow competitors that you mean business and deserve to win. There you have yet another aspect of the ‘winner’ equation. Couple those with hours of elbow grease and you’ll be well on your way to gaining the altitude necessary to claim your place on the top rung of the horse show ladder.
Showing horses is all about having a good time, win or lose, and doing your best. Sure, it helps to have those things mentioned previously, but many exhibitors have to make due with less than ideal circumstances. How do you overcome such deficiencies? Easy. Well, okay, sometimes easier said than done. Be a realist, but never stop dreaming. Hard work pays off! Every time you think you’ve given all you can to this pursuit, dig a little deeper. For some, just getting an approving glance or a positive mention from a judge constitutes victory. Others thrive on covering their walls with blue ribbons. Whatever path you choose, make certain your actions speak as loud as any words you utter, and most of all that those actions say, “Look at me and see what a winner looks like!” Then you’ll have accomplished that often elusive goal of looking the part.
Congratulations! You’ve made it this far...now get out there and smile!
~SFTS
In all likelihood, if you consistently push yourself to be the best you can be, if you strive for perfection in all your endeavors and if you never settle for a mediocre performance, no matter what, you’ll be a winner.
For most of us who compete on a regular basis, the grind of preparation is all part of the big picture -- and without proper prep, an exhibitor won’t find the winner’s circle. You need to be dedicated beyond belief to your horse(s) and your goals, so you’d better have those goals outlined before you ever fill out an entry blank. It all starts with the desire to achieve. If you’ve got a trainer, sit down with her or him and explain what you hope to accomplish with your horse. Otherwise, talk it over with horsey friends who share your show ring enthusiasm. Then design a program to reach the goals you’ve set out for yourself and your horse.
One of the most important aspects of winning is being a good loser. No horse, rider or trainer wins every class every time out. A few come close, but even the best of the best have gotten beat before when the heat was on. Knowing how to handle defeat is vital to being able to conquer the show ring. Even when you don’t place where you think you should, congratulate those who won. With a little luck, you’ll be in their shoes one day soon and will appreciate their graciousness.
Many, many years ago, the first time I ever had the opportunity to show a Saddleseat English horse, I was confronted on the rail, while waiting for our turn in the ring, by a girl in my age bracket with a fancy chestnut horse. My older grey gelding, a former Western horse, was no match for her sleek mount -- who actually looked the part of a flat saddle horse. I nervously glanced at her, then back to my horse, uttering something to the effect of, “This is my first time to show Saddleseat, I hope I don’t get bucked off!” Her retort? “Well, I hope you DO, because I like to WIN!” It’s a moment I will never forget and a moment I sincerely hope most little girls (and boys) never have to endure. By the way, I smiled at her, wishing her good luck...then promptly went out there and beat her, winning the blue ribbon in my first English Pleasure class. Woo hoo!
Nothing ruins a good performance like sour grapes and a poor attitude. Let that also be a life lesson learned. Having a top notch horse, excellent skills and abilities, beautifully made clothes and a lot of money to flaunt it all does not make you a winner. There are many folks out there who seemingly cannot compete with the upper echelon, yet win time and again because of their dedication and spirit. Remember, “winning” isn’t only about what color those ribbons you bring home are. That’s just one facet of being a winner.
Entering the ring with supreme confidence goes a long way toward establishing to the judges and your fellow competitors that you mean business and deserve to win. There you have yet another aspect of the ‘winner’ equation. Couple those with hours of elbow grease and you’ll be well on your way to gaining the altitude necessary to claim your place on the top rung of the horse show ladder.
Showing horses is all about having a good time, win or lose, and doing your best. Sure, it helps to have those things mentioned previously, but many exhibitors have to make due with less than ideal circumstances. How do you overcome such deficiencies? Easy. Well, okay, sometimes easier said than done. Be a realist, but never stop dreaming. Hard work pays off! Every time you think you’ve given all you can to this pursuit, dig a little deeper. For some, just getting an approving glance or a positive mention from a judge constitutes victory. Others thrive on covering their walls with blue ribbons. Whatever path you choose, make certain your actions speak as loud as any words you utter, and most of all that those actions say, “Look at me and see what a winner looks like!” Then you’ll have accomplished that often elusive goal of looking the part.
Congratulations! You’ve made it this far...now get out there and smile!
~SFTS
Sunday, August 2, 2009
Choose Your Tack Carefully
Imagine this scenario -- The young first time horse owner goes into a local tack store to purchase a bridle for his newly acquired equine, and is immediately inundated with overly friendly vulture-like salespeople trying to sell him unnecessary yet expensive equipment that he has no idea how to use.
Not unlike going car shopping (which I absolutely HATE!), making a trip to the tack shop can be at the very least an unpleasant and frustrating experience, to say the least, for one who has little or no knowledge about what they actually need.
The first thing to remember is that most of the employees who are trying to sell you something aren’t trainers, and they more than likely have not used the equipment they market. Many of them don’t even own horses. It’s just a job to them, and therefore you shouldn’t put too much stock in what they tell you. Now, that’s not to say that some of them aren’t knowledgeable horsepeople, and that none of them have any experience, but their main objective is to make money by selling goods.
As I have said before, taking someone with you who has lots of experience and, more importantly, knows how much you know and what you wish to do with your horse is of utmost importance. Whether it’s a friend from the boarding stable, your trainer or the person you bought the horse from, you really should have someone accompany you who’s on YOUR side the first time you go shopping for things to fill up your tack room. For those of you who have years of horse experience, I suggest offering your services as often as possible to help your fellow horsemen.
Perhaps the most important (and expensive) equipment purchase you’ll make is a saddle, and the single most important factor in buying a saddle is making sure it fits your horse properly without pinching or somehow impeding his movement. Today many saddle shops either employ or can recommend someone with experience in saddle fitting, which is one of the most valuable services available. Poorly fitted saddles are the leading cause of back and leg injuries in horses, as pressure points can compress and compound into major soundness issues. A saddle which does not properly fit your horse’s back WILL make him sore, and you sure don’t want him to experience that kind of pain. You also want to make sure you own a suitably thick saddle pad (or two) that fits both your horse and your saddle, and a proper sized non-chaffing cinch or girth.
Most people only buy one bridle and one bit at a time (unlike us “tack junkies” who want one of everything!), so choosing the right one for you can be an exhausting ordeal. First make a list that includes the following: What is going to be the easiest to care for? Keeping in mind that bridles (and any tack you use on your horse) need to be kept clean and in good condition, choose one that will be simple to keep up. What is going to last the longest and stay in good shape? Some folks like colored nylon because it’s durable, it can be thrown in the washing machine and doesn’t break as easily as leather -- not to mention if you choose “hot pink” you’ll immediately know if someone’s using your stuff! -- but remember when it starts to get old or if you go too long without washing the sweat and dirt off, the nylon can chafe your horse’s face, and the buckles aren’t usually as sturdy as those found on leather headstalls. I prefer soft leather with snaps instead of buckles where the bit connects. That makes it easy for me to change bits if I desire, and all I need to do to keep it clean is wipe it off with a rag soaked in Lexol® or a similar product.
As far as reins go, I also prefer snaps on them, so if I do happen to purchase a pair which don’t come with snaps, I make sure I can put some on them, and buy the snaps separately. The most important thing to remember about reins is they need to be long enough for your horse’s neck. Some folks like a round “roping” type rein (kind of like those found on English bridles) so if they happen to drop one rein -- or both! -- the horse won’t step on it and break it. However, it needs to be of an adequate length so the horse doesn’t feel like you’re constantly pulling on his mouth even when your hands are halfway up his neck.
My personal preference is a pair of regular split (or straight) reins that are not connected. First, they’re always long enough and I can cross them over my horse’s neck so I don’t drop either of them. I do not, however, want them too thick or heavy, because some of the feel of your horse’s mouth is lost that way, and you always want to know exactly how much pressure you’re putting on his mouth. For Western-style curb bits a popular choice in Arabian circles is a pair of closed reins with a romal attached. Again, you want to be sure they’re long enough. You also want to make sure you didn’t choose them for the romal itself, as some people use the long end and large leather flap to hit or punish their horse with. It can come in handy under certain circumstances to correct the horse in a pinch, but in this day and age they’re usually more for the show ring than every day hacking about.
Regarding bits, I recommend reading my previous published articles on that subject. There will be more upcoming, so keep your eyes open! I'll be covering virtually every conceivable bit you may be thinking of using or buying, and again, you should follow the advice of a trusted professional as far as what you use in your horse’s mouth.
Try to avoid anything that is TOO cheap. Cheap bits are usually cheaply made, and can break easily or become damaged by a horse’s teeth. I have actually had mouthpieces break in the horse’s mouth and fall out as I was loping around the arena! I’ve also had bits get so chewed up, I had to throw them away in fear of tearing a horse’s mouth open. About thirty to fifty dollars ($30-$50) is average to pay for a decent bit. Really good bits can be much higher priced, and generally you get what you pay for. As a rule, the higher the price tag, the nicer quality bit you’ll get for your money. There are several well known bit manufacturers who have excellent reputations, some are more expensive than others, who put out nice, long lasting products.
Some horses tend to go nicely in a bosal, sidepull or some other form of bitless bridle, but those devices are generally more for training sessions (or shows, in the case of a bosal) rather than trail enjoyment. I heartily suggest before looking into such a contraption you do your homework and decide what, exactly, you really want to do with your horse. A bosal is what we often refer to as a hackamore, and it’s a wrapped rawhide loop that fits over the horse’s nose, with contact made by using a rope tied to a knot at the end of the loop (called a mecate) as reins. Bosals work by rotating the rawhide over the horse’s nose and applying pressure to the bridge of his nose in order to get him to slow down, turn or drop his head. Many junior Western horses -- those age five and under -- are shown in bosals rather than snaffle bits, especially if the rider or trainer does not want anything in the horse’s mouth at a tender age. On the other hand, a sidepull and similar bitless bridles work off the sides of the horse’s face rather than the top. I am personally not enamored of these contraptions because they don’t offer what I look for in training equipment, which is to assist in teaching the horse to carry himself rather than make me carry him. For a relaxing trail ride it might be acceptable, but when you are working toward a show ring goal, they just don’t serve the purpose.
Unless I’m schooling show horses, I tend not to worry about using draw reins, German martingales or other training aids, although every horse I ride, even on the trail, wears a simple running martingale and a cavesson. Draw reins can be helpful in teaching horses who tend to be strong on your hands, who have short attention spans and have trouble concentrating or who are not very far along in their training to learn and accept a proper frame, however, you want to avoid riding ONLY in draw reins. I always use a direct rein to the bit in conjunction with the draw, and only use the draw to remind the horse where his face needs to be [Remember, too, that it’s your LEGS AND SEAT which dictate the degree of collection you will get from your horse, not how much pressure you put on his mouth!]. The German martingale is similar in function yet vastly different in purpose. Ordinarily used as headsetting devices, they force the horse into the correct frame, as long as you want your horse traveling long and low, as many Western and Hunter horses go today, instead of allowing the horse to teach himself how to properly collect and carry himself. Hence why my training “gimmick” of choice is a good pair of draw reins.
Why I use a running martingale is simple: Since it’s an expected part of the wardrobe, the horse knows it should be there and he most often won’t attempt to circumvent it and lift his head (once taught how to carry himself) and evade it, even in the show ring where you’re not allowed the slightest advantage and where they are not legal. While working and getting a good ride out of your horse, you will never come into contact with the martingale, but it’s there in case you need it. Likewise for the cavesson, although they are a part of the required tack for English bridles, it prevents (as a “friendly reminder”) the horse from opening his mouth widely and thus evading the bit or worse, yet doesn’t prevent normal action of the mouth and jaw. With horses who tend to chew excessively or gap their mouths, cavessons (and in some cases dropped or flash nosebands) can be extremely helpful in teaching the horse not to disobey to that extent, even though they are not tightened down too much in an effort to force (there’s that word again!) the horse into submission. I don’t use tie-downs and I only have one standing martingale in my tack room...which has only been used on one horse, a tremendously large and difficult jumper who needed an extra little “reminder” about who was in charge. The problem with tie-downs is that they actually create more problems than they solve. The concept is to prevent the horse from having much ability to lift his head, and therefore run the risk of the poll area of his hard head hitting you in the face, while allowing him to gallop with his nose elevated and outward. They are commonly used in gaming or rope horses as something for the horse to lean into, but as someone primarily concerned with the show ring and trail riding, that's not a use I need out of my tack. Over the years I’ve found that in spending more time and effort training a horse to carry himself properly, you run less of a risk of becoming injured by a tossing head. That doesn’t entirely solve all the problems tie-downs are designed to handle, and they can have a purpose (as illustrated by the aforementioned jumper -- the idea is to prevent the horse from throwing his head back into you, while allowing him far more freedom of movement than a traditional running martingale, though I respectfully disagree about running martingales unnecessarily restricting movement), but I happen to generally prefer other means to achieve those objectives in training and competing.
I won’t delve into harnesses and bitting rigs too much here, except to say that sometimes tack often used for driving horses can come in handy for a variety of under saddle purposes. The sidecheck, for instance. It’s duty is to prevent the horse from diving his head down and keeps him elevated at a certain point while in the bridle. Sidechecks work by attaching to the center of the front of the saddle or to the center of the surcingle, running up the neck and then splitting off into two parts, one for each side of the bridle. With a sidecheck bridle, there will be rings attached at the temple on each side of the headstall, which you feed the sidecheck cheeks through before snapping them to the bit. If the horse lowers his head, the check will tighten and keep him from dropping any further. An overcheck is a similar device, though instead of splitting into two separate “reins” and connecting to the bit you’re using on the horse from the side, it attaches to a strap which comes down the middle of the horse’s face and attaches either to the regular snaffle or to a separate bradoon. The action is basically the same, however, and both can also be of great help in preventing horses from evading the bit and/or getting behind the bit while under saddle. Another application which I’ve found to be handy with sidechecks /overchecks is to prevent horses from crow hopping or outright bucking. If the horse can’t drop his head below his withers, he’s going to have a darn difficult time trying to buck.
For horses that need even more assistance and a little bit bigger reminder to achieve a desired headset (and once again, remember where true collection comes from ~ collection is NOT a headset), there are more severe options such as a gag bridle or war bridle. The gag utilizes a special bit which has rings that are usually flat and have holes in the tops and bottoms of the rings on each side, to allow the specially made reins to run up through the holes and over the horse’s poll, then back into the rider’s hands from the bottom of the bit. The effect is to help the horse raise his head while maintaining a vertical profile. War bridles, while more frequently today used similarly to a twitch to subdue an unruly horse, work by running a rope, rather than a leather rein, over the horse’s poll and then through the horse’s mouth, sometimes across the gums as you would use a lip chain, and back to the rider’s hands. Pressure via the reins on the gums or across the sensitive corners of a horse’s mouth creates the desired reaction and the horse raises his neck and head, flexing at the poll, then drops his nose.
My final words of wisdom this month are about mechanical hackamores. I try to stay as far away from them as possible! The main function of one of these dreadful appliances is to invoke pain, and thus fear, in the horse. They pinch his cheeks when the reins are pulled on and are usually used in conjunction with a too tight curb chain (or worse -- baling wire!!!). Did you ever wonder why inevitably every horse you’ve ever seen ridden in one constantly throws it’s head? There’s your answer in a nutshell!
Remember, you AND your horse have to live with whatever you buy, so be wise and think of what’s best for him or her. You’ll save money in the long run by not having to go out and replace cheap, broken or worn out tack every time you turn around. Your horse will also thank you for it!
~SFTS
Not unlike going car shopping (which I absolutely HATE!), making a trip to the tack shop can be at the very least an unpleasant and frustrating experience, to say the least, for one who has little or no knowledge about what they actually need.
The first thing to remember is that most of the employees who are trying to sell you something aren’t trainers, and they more than likely have not used the equipment they market. Many of them don’t even own horses. It’s just a job to them, and therefore you shouldn’t put too much stock in what they tell you. Now, that’s not to say that some of them aren’t knowledgeable horsepeople, and that none of them have any experience, but their main objective is to make money by selling goods.
As I have said before, taking someone with you who has lots of experience and, more importantly, knows how much you know and what you wish to do with your horse is of utmost importance. Whether it’s a friend from the boarding stable, your trainer or the person you bought the horse from, you really should have someone accompany you who’s on YOUR side the first time you go shopping for things to fill up your tack room. For those of you who have years of horse experience, I suggest offering your services as often as possible to help your fellow horsemen.
Perhaps the most important (and expensive) equipment purchase you’ll make is a saddle, and the single most important factor in buying a saddle is making sure it fits your horse properly without pinching or somehow impeding his movement. Today many saddle shops either employ or can recommend someone with experience in saddle fitting, which is one of the most valuable services available. Poorly fitted saddles are the leading cause of back and leg injuries in horses, as pressure points can compress and compound into major soundness issues. A saddle which does not properly fit your horse’s back WILL make him sore, and you sure don’t want him to experience that kind of pain. You also want to make sure you own a suitably thick saddle pad (or two) that fits both your horse and your saddle, and a proper sized non-chaffing cinch or girth.
Most people only buy one bridle and one bit at a time (unlike us “tack junkies” who want one of everything!), so choosing the right one for you can be an exhausting ordeal. First make a list that includes the following: What is going to be the easiest to care for? Keeping in mind that bridles (and any tack you use on your horse) need to be kept clean and in good condition, choose one that will be simple to keep up. What is going to last the longest and stay in good shape? Some folks like colored nylon because it’s durable, it can be thrown in the washing machine and doesn’t break as easily as leather -- not to mention if you choose “hot pink” you’ll immediately know if someone’s using your stuff! -- but remember when it starts to get old or if you go too long without washing the sweat and dirt off, the nylon can chafe your horse’s face, and the buckles aren’t usually as sturdy as those found on leather headstalls. I prefer soft leather with snaps instead of buckles where the bit connects. That makes it easy for me to change bits if I desire, and all I need to do to keep it clean is wipe it off with a rag soaked in Lexol® or a similar product.
As far as reins go, I also prefer snaps on them, so if I do happen to purchase a pair which don’t come with snaps, I make sure I can put some on them, and buy the snaps separately. The most important thing to remember about reins is they need to be long enough for your horse’s neck. Some folks like a round “roping” type rein (kind of like those found on English bridles) so if they happen to drop one rein -- or both! -- the horse won’t step on it and break it. However, it needs to be of an adequate length so the horse doesn’t feel like you’re constantly pulling on his mouth even when your hands are halfway up his neck.
My personal preference is a pair of regular split (or straight) reins that are not connected. First, they’re always long enough and I can cross them over my horse’s neck so I don’t drop either of them. I do not, however, want them too thick or heavy, because some of the feel of your horse’s mouth is lost that way, and you always want to know exactly how much pressure you’re putting on his mouth. For Western-style curb bits a popular choice in Arabian circles is a pair of closed reins with a romal attached. Again, you want to be sure they’re long enough. You also want to make sure you didn’t choose them for the romal itself, as some people use the long end and large leather flap to hit or punish their horse with. It can come in handy under certain circumstances to correct the horse in a pinch, but in this day and age they’re usually more for the show ring than every day hacking about.
Regarding bits, I recommend reading my previous published articles on that subject. There will be more upcoming, so keep your eyes open! I'll be covering virtually every conceivable bit you may be thinking of using or buying, and again, you should follow the advice of a trusted professional as far as what you use in your horse’s mouth.
Try to avoid anything that is TOO cheap. Cheap bits are usually cheaply made, and can break easily or become damaged by a horse’s teeth. I have actually had mouthpieces break in the horse’s mouth and fall out as I was loping around the arena! I’ve also had bits get so chewed up, I had to throw them away in fear of tearing a horse’s mouth open. About thirty to fifty dollars ($30-$50) is average to pay for a decent bit. Really good bits can be much higher priced, and generally you get what you pay for. As a rule, the higher the price tag, the nicer quality bit you’ll get for your money. There are several well known bit manufacturers who have excellent reputations, some are more expensive than others, who put out nice, long lasting products.
Some horses tend to go nicely in a bosal, sidepull or some other form of bitless bridle, but those devices are generally more for training sessions (or shows, in the case of a bosal) rather than trail enjoyment. I heartily suggest before looking into such a contraption you do your homework and decide what, exactly, you really want to do with your horse. A bosal is what we often refer to as a hackamore, and it’s a wrapped rawhide loop that fits over the horse’s nose, with contact made by using a rope tied to a knot at the end of the loop (called a mecate) as reins. Bosals work by rotating the rawhide over the horse’s nose and applying pressure to the bridge of his nose in order to get him to slow down, turn or drop his head. Many junior Western horses -- those age five and under -- are shown in bosals rather than snaffle bits, especially if the rider or trainer does not want anything in the horse’s mouth at a tender age. On the other hand, a sidepull and similar bitless bridles work off the sides of the horse’s face rather than the top. I am personally not enamored of these contraptions because they don’t offer what I look for in training equipment, which is to assist in teaching the horse to carry himself rather than make me carry him. For a relaxing trail ride it might be acceptable, but when you are working toward a show ring goal, they just don’t serve the purpose.
Unless I’m schooling show horses, I tend not to worry about using draw reins, German martingales or other training aids, although every horse I ride, even on the trail, wears a simple running martingale and a cavesson. Draw reins can be helpful in teaching horses who tend to be strong on your hands, who have short attention spans and have trouble concentrating or who are not very far along in their training to learn and accept a proper frame, however, you want to avoid riding ONLY in draw reins. I always use a direct rein to the bit in conjunction with the draw, and only use the draw to remind the horse where his face needs to be [Remember, too, that it’s your LEGS AND SEAT which dictate the degree of collection you will get from your horse, not how much pressure you put on his mouth!]. The German martingale is similar in function yet vastly different in purpose. Ordinarily used as headsetting devices, they force the horse into the correct frame, as long as you want your horse traveling long and low, as many Western and Hunter horses go today, instead of allowing the horse to teach himself how to properly collect and carry himself. Hence why my training “gimmick” of choice is a good pair of draw reins.
Why I use a running martingale is simple: Since it’s an expected part of the wardrobe, the horse knows it should be there and he most often won’t attempt to circumvent it and lift his head (once taught how to carry himself) and evade it, even in the show ring where you’re not allowed the slightest advantage and where they are not legal. While working and getting a good ride out of your horse, you will never come into contact with the martingale, but it’s there in case you need it. Likewise for the cavesson, although they are a part of the required tack for English bridles, it prevents (as a “friendly reminder”) the horse from opening his mouth widely and thus evading the bit or worse, yet doesn’t prevent normal action of the mouth and jaw. With horses who tend to chew excessively or gap their mouths, cavessons (and in some cases dropped or flash nosebands) can be extremely helpful in teaching the horse not to disobey to that extent, even though they are not tightened down too much in an effort to force (there’s that word again!) the horse into submission. I don’t use tie-downs and I only have one standing martingale in my tack room...which has only been used on one horse, a tremendously large and difficult jumper who needed an extra little “reminder” about who was in charge. The problem with tie-downs is that they actually create more problems than they solve. The concept is to prevent the horse from having much ability to lift his head, and therefore run the risk of the poll area of his hard head hitting you in the face, while allowing him to gallop with his nose elevated and outward. They are commonly used in gaming or rope horses as something for the horse to lean into, but as someone primarily concerned with the show ring and trail riding, that's not a use I need out of my tack. Over the years I’ve found that in spending more time and effort training a horse to carry himself properly, you run less of a risk of becoming injured by a tossing head. That doesn’t entirely solve all the problems tie-downs are designed to handle, and they can have a purpose (as illustrated by the aforementioned jumper -- the idea is to prevent the horse from throwing his head back into you, while allowing him far more freedom of movement than a traditional running martingale, though I respectfully disagree about running martingales unnecessarily restricting movement), but I happen to generally prefer other means to achieve those objectives in training and competing.
I won’t delve into harnesses and bitting rigs too much here, except to say that sometimes tack often used for driving horses can come in handy for a variety of under saddle purposes. The sidecheck, for instance. It’s duty is to prevent the horse from diving his head down and keeps him elevated at a certain point while in the bridle. Sidechecks work by attaching to the center of the front of the saddle or to the center of the surcingle, running up the neck and then splitting off into two parts, one for each side of the bridle. With a sidecheck bridle, there will be rings attached at the temple on each side of the headstall, which you feed the sidecheck cheeks through before snapping them to the bit. If the horse lowers his head, the check will tighten and keep him from dropping any further. An overcheck is a similar device, though instead of splitting into two separate “reins” and connecting to the bit you’re using on the horse from the side, it attaches to a strap which comes down the middle of the horse’s face and attaches either to the regular snaffle or to a separate bradoon. The action is basically the same, however, and both can also be of great help in preventing horses from evading the bit and/or getting behind the bit while under saddle. Another application which I’ve found to be handy with sidechecks /overchecks is to prevent horses from crow hopping or outright bucking. If the horse can’t drop his head below his withers, he’s going to have a darn difficult time trying to buck.
For horses that need even more assistance and a little bit bigger reminder to achieve a desired headset (and once again, remember where true collection comes from ~ collection is NOT a headset), there are more severe options such as a gag bridle or war bridle. The gag utilizes a special bit which has rings that are usually flat and have holes in the tops and bottoms of the rings on each side, to allow the specially made reins to run up through the holes and over the horse’s poll, then back into the rider’s hands from the bottom of the bit. The effect is to help the horse raise his head while maintaining a vertical profile. War bridles, while more frequently today used similarly to a twitch to subdue an unruly horse, work by running a rope, rather than a leather rein, over the horse’s poll and then through the horse’s mouth, sometimes across the gums as you would use a lip chain, and back to the rider’s hands. Pressure via the reins on the gums or across the sensitive corners of a horse’s mouth creates the desired reaction and the horse raises his neck and head, flexing at the poll, then drops his nose.
My final words of wisdom this month are about mechanical hackamores. I try to stay as far away from them as possible! The main function of one of these dreadful appliances is to invoke pain, and thus fear, in the horse. They pinch his cheeks when the reins are pulled on and are usually used in conjunction with a too tight curb chain (or worse -- baling wire!!!). Did you ever wonder why inevitably every horse you’ve ever seen ridden in one constantly throws it’s head? There’s your answer in a nutshell!
Remember, you AND your horse have to live with whatever you buy, so be wise and think of what’s best for him or her. You’ll save money in the long run by not having to go out and replace cheap, broken or worn out tack every time you turn around. Your horse will also thank you for it!
~SFTS
Saturday, August 1, 2009
We Came, We Showed, We Conquered!
Okay, so the whole Longeline experience isn't exactly what I had hoped it would be, we still brought home blue ribbons under each judge and it looks like we are the leading contender for winning the Longeline Jackpot Futurity at the final show of the series, in addition to bolstering our points lead in the Year End High Point race for both Arabian/Half-Arabian Halter and Late Yearlings Halter (the latter class we won unanimously).
I am sure some of you are wondering about the Longeline class, and I can only say that sometimes baby horses can be so dang unpredictable and sometimes they like to play. A lot! Sigh. She was fairly good, trouble was she had just decided enough was enough by the time the Longeline class was called, and that proved to be a challenge in keeping her focused on the job at hand.
My student who competed in the Walk/Trot division had a really nice show, too, bringing home two first places and four second places, to secure Reserve High Point of the day. She would likely have won the big prize had there not been the most adorable little girl riding an out of control pony who seemed to want to follow my student's horse everywhere, including circling and reversing. Poor mare was starting to look almost panicked, as if to say "Help me, that pony is following me!". Horses. Never a dull moment!
Tomorrow I'll have the grand total tally of our winnings at today's show. It was pretty impressive and I am just so honored and thrilled to have such fabulous, incredible friends and clients in this industry, both locally and otherwise. You all make my job so worthwhile, and are such an inspiration!
Good night...it's been a long day. :)
~SFTS
I am sure some of you are wondering about the Longeline class, and I can only say that sometimes baby horses can be so dang unpredictable and sometimes they like to play. A lot! Sigh. She was fairly good, trouble was she had just decided enough was enough by the time the Longeline class was called, and that proved to be a challenge in keeping her focused on the job at hand.
My student who competed in the Walk/Trot division had a really nice show, too, bringing home two first places and four second places, to secure Reserve High Point of the day. She would likely have won the big prize had there not been the most adorable little girl riding an out of control pony who seemed to want to follow my student's horse everywhere, including circling and reversing. Poor mare was starting to look almost panicked, as if to say "Help me, that pony is following me!". Horses. Never a dull moment!
Tomorrow I'll have the grand total tally of our winnings at today's show. It was pretty impressive and I am just so honored and thrilled to have such fabulous, incredible friends and clients in this industry, both locally and otherwise. You all make my job so worthwhile, and are such an inspiration!
Good night...it's been a long day. :)
~SFTS
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