A Little Bit More Background On Bits

We have previously, on several occasions, explored the wide world of what we put in our horses' mouths. Most of what was covered in our previous trips down that proverbial yellow brick road has consisted of when to use what bit for what purpose. This time around, my intent is to explain how bits work and why horses respond to bits the way they do.

Most horses begin their formal training by learning to carry a snaffle bit. I've written exhaustively about the benefits of the snaffle and the reasons I prefer to use them for a majority of work on my horses. In schooling show horses, even those destined for Western disciplines where they'll be required to wear a bridle after the age of 5, and trail horses every single time out, I find no reason to go beyond using a simple snaffle bit a majority of the time. In fact, unless we're schooling for an upcoming show, or initially teaching the horse to wear something shanked for a specific purpose, a lightweight, smooth snaffle is my bit of choice.

There are, of course, many variations of the snaffle bit; some are better than others. Each type has a purpose and a special application. As horsemen, we need to know and understand the purpose of a bit is communication with the horse. However, ideally we should be mostly using our body to express our intent and what we expect from our mounts, as opposed to pulling on their mouths. Right? Why are bits even necessary? Think super subtle stealth communication. Reins aren't meant to be pulled on, they're not a steering wheel to manhandle, they are more like a power cord between your hands and your horse's mouth. That current of energy from what your hands wish to convey, travels down the rein and directly contacts one of the most sensitive parts of the horse.

Snaffle bits and curb bits work differently to communicate with the horse. One works off the corners of the mouth, and the other works off leverage utilizing a curb strap or chain  (chin strap). I have said this before, ten thousand times. And depending on what configuration the snaffle is, the message you're giving the horse can vary. Same goes for the many variations of curb bits which are available on the market. I've been asked many times before, why are there so many different types of bits? I wish the answer was less simplistic, but the fact is, marketing and money. Each time something new comes along, everyone has to rush right out and buy it, whether they need it or understand how to use it. There really is no better answer.

If I'm riding or training in a snaffle, I'm wanting direct contact with my horse's mouth, though I expect that the horse already understands my subtle seat and leg cues. This is a tool for directional steering, if you will, though a majority of how I ride is through my weight in the saddle, utilizing my seat and various parts of my legs. All that bit is for will be to encourage the horse to point his nose in a certain direction, then follow with his body. When I pick up a rein or take hold of a rein, my "less is more" theory of pressure on his mouth is critical. Any amount of even the slightest resistance means we have to go back a step or two, until he fully understands what we're doing.

With a curb, I'm looking for a response to the slightest movement of reins on the bit to elicit a response. I should be able to lift my hand and see/feel a change (when coupled with seat pressure, weight distribution and using my legs) in how the horse carries himself. As we've talked about before, a curb bit works by rotating in the horse's mouth aa well as through degrees of pressure on the bars of the mouth and the tongue. I prefer a Billy Allen, a Mullen mouth or a frog mouth, as all three are easy on the horse with ideal tongue pressure, and I have found them to be the best tools to communicate my wishes. More advanced curbs begin to add more pressure on the tongue, a "cricket" (or roller) to occupy the horse with an overactive mouth, or pressure to the roof of the mouth.

In all this, the bottom line is we have to understand how to most effectively communicate with our horses, and that means choosing the correct bit to use for the job we are interested in the horse performing. If all the pieces fall into place and you have laid a solid foundation, you'll have the most amazing relationship ever with your horses. But you've got to listen to what they're telling you. Happy trails!

~SFTS